Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

I found this regarding the tubing that ties the fuel rails together:

Ford Muscle Forums/Ford Fuel Rail Rehab: I don't like the way he removes the old hose with a wire wheel as it is so easy to get the old tubing off with a heat gun. Anyway, he recommends fuel injection hose rated SAE J30R9 in 1/4" size, and he uses EFI hose clamps. Plus, he lubes the inside of the hose with engine oil.

So, if 1/4" hose is right, then maybe I can get that 1/4" nylon line on? Think I'll give it a try.

According to this: https://www.freelin-wade.com/high-pressure-nylon-tubing.html#1

Rated to 200* F, so a plunge in boiling water would probably be the answer to getting it on.

[Gary Lewis]

According to this: https://www.freelin-wade.com/high-pressure-nylon-tubing.html#1

Rated to 200* F, so a plunge in boiling water would probably be the answer to getting it on.

Thanks. Don't know what the Dorman stuff that I have is rated to, pressure or temp, but it is marketed for use in the FI systems. In fact, I think Ray and I used it on his '86 years ago. And I've used it on other trucks, including Big Blue.

But I don't use boiling water. I just use my heat gun, cautiously. I've not had any melting or other problems, so will give that a try after a couple of cups of Joe.

[Gary Lewis]

According to this: https://www.freelin-wade.com/high-pressure-nylon-tubing.html#1

Rated to 200* F, so a plunge in boiling water would probably be the answer to getting it on.

Oh yes, there's no mention on that site of 9/32" tubing. So I'm guessing that the original tubing is 1/4" but didn't fully return to that size after all these years.

[85lebaront2]

According to this: https://www.freelin-wade.com/high-pressure-nylon-tubing.html#1

Rated to 200* F, so a plunge in boiling water would probably be the answer to getting it on.

I would be a little concerned about using tubing only rated to 200° F underhood on a 460. I am pretty damn sure that summer, A/C on in traffic Darth's underhood temp gets well over the, overheat mode on the EEC-V advances the timing and raises the idle, then if that doesn't bring it down in tolerance, kills the A/C compressor. So far I have only had it happen one time stuck in heavy creeping traffic in Portsmouth VA approaching the Downtown Tunnel. Never got to the A/C shut-off, but I was putting it in N everytime the light cycle caught me. I think that that is set around 205° F but it may be even hotter. That is based on the ECT measurement and possibly may use the ACT to determine the underhood temp.

[salans7]

So far I have only had it happen one time stuck in heavy creeping traffic in Portsmouth VA approaching the Downtown Tunnel. Never got to the A/C shut-off, but I was putting it in N everytime the light cycle caught me.

I reached that point in a late 90's Uhaul truck coming through the middle of Atlanta in stop and go traffic on I85. All of that concrete, the heat from the cars, and the fact that it was summer put that truck at it's breaking point. A/C kicked off for a few miles but it came back when we got to I75 and out of the concrete jungle. Definitely wasn't fun.

[Gary Lewis]

So far I have only had it happen one time stuck in heavy creeping traffic in Portsmouth VA approaching the Downtown Tunnel. Never got to the A/C shut-off, but I was putting it in N everytime the light cycle caught me.

I reached that point in a late 90's Uhaul truck coming through the middle of Atlanta in stop and go traffic on I85. All of that concrete, the heat from the cars, and the fact that it was summer put that truck at it's breaking point. A/C kicked off for a few miles but it came back when we got to I75 and out of the concrete jungle. Definitely wasn't fun.

I don't know what the Dorman stuff is rated for, nor what the original Ford stuff is rated for. But both of them soften the same way with my heat gun, so are probably rated the same. However, with the fuel flowing through the rails and the hoses they should be kept fairly cool.

But are you suggesting that I should go with the EFI hose and clamps?

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know what the Dorman stuff is rated for, nor what the original Ford stuff is rated for. But both of them soften the same way with my heat gun, so are probably rated the same. However, with the fuel flowing through the rails and the hoses they should be kept fairly cool.

But are you suggesting that I should go with the EFI hose and clamps?

Well, I looked at the Dorman tubing and it is good to 200 degrees. So I found the stuff below which has this rating: -35°C (-31°F) to +135°C (275°F); intermittent to +150°C (302°F).

But it was an interesting outing to find it. Went to the first parts store (which shall remain nameless) and asked the young man for "2' of 1/4" fuel injection hose". I watched him go back to the bulk hose and stretch out a LOT more than 2', so I went back to see what was going on. He was going to give me 4' of hose that said right on it "Not for fuel injection use". When I pointed it out he said "That's what we use on everything."

So I went on to where I should have gone in the first place 'cause we have a member that works in that store, and both guys in there are "older" and know what they are doing. Sure enough, they had the hose below and the clamps.

So, how easy was it to install? Just right, not too loose and not too tight. But, it was obvious that the guy in the other thread was right - it was going to take some lubrication to get the hose on, and he cautioned that you'd better get it fully on in the first go as it isn't easy to get off. However, I don't like the idea of using oil on the inside of the hose for the lubrication as it isn't going to go away and will leave the connection less secure than it could otherwise be. So I just used water and the hoses went on nicely, although it did take some pressure to get them fully in place. But I figure that the water will evaporate and leave the connection more secure.

The original tubes are 2.6" long, so that's what I cut the replacements to. I slipped them on one rail to where I thought the ends should be and then slipped the hose clamps on and pressed the other rail on. I'd measured the outside of the rails at 9 1/4" apart, so I pressed until I got that measurement on each end. But once the initial press was done they did NOT want to move again.

Then I put them in place and discovered that the legs of the clamps hit the lower plenum if pointed down, so I rotated them front/rear. Here's a couple of shots of how they look installed:

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I looked at the Dorman tubing and it is good to 200 degrees. So I found the stuff below which has this rating: -35°C (-31°F) to +135°C (275°F); intermittent to +150°C (302°F).

But it was an interesting outing to find it. Went to the first parts store (which shall remain nameless) and asked the young man for "2' of 1/4" fuel injection hose". I watched him go back to the bulk hose and stretch out a LOT more than 2', so I went back to see what was going on. He was going to give me 4' of hose that said right on it "Not for fuel injection use". When I pointed it out he said "That's what we use on everything."

So I went on to where I should have gone in the first place 'cause we have a member that works in that store, and both guys in there are "older" and know what they are doing. Sure enough, they had the hose below and the clamps.

So, how easy was it to install? Just right, not too loose and not too tight. But, it was obvious that the guy in the other thread was right - it was going to take some lubrication to get the hose on, and he cautioned that you'd better get it fully on in the first go as it isn't easy to get off. However, I don't like the idea of using oil on the inside of the hose for the lubrication as it isn't going to go away and will leave the connection less secure than it could otherwise be. So I just used water and the hoses went on nicely, although it did take some pressure to get them fully in place. But I figure that the water will evaporate and leave the connection more secure.

The original tubes are 2.6" long, so that's what I cut the replacements to. I slipped them on one rail to where I thought the ends should be and then slipped the hose clamps on and pressed the other rail on. I'd measured the outside of the rails at 9 1/4" apart, so I pressed until I got that measurement on each end. But once the initial press was done they did NOT want to move again.

Then I put them in place and discovered that the legs of the clamps hit the lower plenum if pointed down, so I rotated them front/rear. Here's a couple of shots of how they look installed:

And now for the next problem - the clutch and flywheel. Yes, I know we thought we had those nailed, but no. Yesterday the flywheel came in and the pressure plate won't bolt up to it, as shown below.

The weird thing is that both Amazon and Carolina Clutch, who make the LuK products, say that this LuK clutch kit (07-910) and LuK flywheel (LFW109) both fit a 1995 460. But they don't appear to work together on the same engine. So one or the other will have to go back. But I won't know which until I can call Carolina Clutch on Monday to find out what is going on.

[ArdWrknTrk]

And now for the next problem - the clutch and flywheel. Yes, I know we thought we had those nailed, but no. Yesterday the flywheel came in and the pressure plate won't bolt up to it, as shown below.

The weird thing is that both Amazon and Carolina Clutch, who make the LuK products, say that this LuK clutch kit (07-910) and LuK flywheel (LFW109) both fit a 1995 460. But they don't appear to work together on the same engine. So one or the other will have to go back. But I won't know which until I can call Carolina Clutch on Monday to find out what is going on.

It's exasperating, isn't it???? 😡

[Gary Lewis]

It's exasperating, isn't it???? 😡

Yes, it certainly is! I'd not thought that there would be a pressure plate that wouldn't fit either flywheel. And I'd not realized that there's no way, at least that I can find, to ensure that the parts you are ordering will work together.

I just called Carolina Clutch and, as expected, I got voice mail. But it said to leave a message and they'd return the call or to send an email as they monitor it 24x7. So I did both, with the email shown below. We shall see.

I have a Ford 460 w/a ZF5 and needed a new clutch. Your tech said since the engine isn't stock I need the HD version, so I ordered your clutch kit 07-910 from Amazon. But, when it came in it wouldn't bolt to my flywheel as the pressure plate has 4 pair of bolts and my flywheel has 3 pair. So I ordered your LFW109 flywheel, again from Amazon. But the pressure plate won't bolt to this flywheel either - pic attached.

Obviously I need to return one or the other. Or both? But which? And, what do I replace it/them with? Help!

Gary