Big Blue's Transformation

[1986F150Six]

And here's what the engine looks like with the PC'd parts gently installed:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n45055/Engine_Mocked_Up_With_PCd_Front_Dress_-_III.jpg

Ummm… too pretty to use!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ummm… too pretty to use!

"Another trailer queen?"

Gary's brother knows him pretty well, doesn't he?

[Gary Lewis]

I wouldn't, but I'm not you.

That alloy isn't the toughest and it does take a nice thread.

If it were me I'd put the Helicoil and be glad for the tougher stainless threads in the ear of my alternator.

Hadn't thought about the alloy. And I assume you meant "it doesn't take a nice thread". So I'll get a Helicoil. Thanks.

[Gary Lewis]

Ummm… too pretty to use!

"Another trailer queen?"

Gary's brother knows him pretty well, doesn't he?

No and yes, in that order.

Part of the "pretty" is to prove to my son it is a new engine and will NOT leak. He's been all over me like stink on skunk that I can't take Big Blue off road because it leaks oil. As late as last night he said "It won't leak oil, right?" So if he can see a shiny engine, albeit beneath all of the accoutrements associated with EFI, he'll realize it is new and doesn't leak.

Another part of it is that I like assembling things that are "new". Pretty. Not rusty. So this is fun for me, and after all, that's what a hobby is all about.

[Gary Lewis]

Hadn't thought about the alloy. And I assume you meant "it doesn't take a nice thread". So I'll get a Helicoil. Thanks.

There are several lengths of Helicoils, from .375" to 1.125". But the one I keep finding in stock has the .562" coil in this kit from Amazon.

Given the alloy, is a .562 long coil going to provide enough bite on the alternator?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hadn't thought about the alloy. And I assume you meant "it doesn't take a nice thread". So I'll get a Helicoil. Thanks.

The alloy threads nicely, but it crumbles like cast iron, not raising a chip.

Fine threads and for developing more clamping force for a given torque, or .xxx" per revolution for indication, like a 20 pitch thread would give you.

It's important that both tails of the insert end inside the hole.

The sharp ends are supposed to keep it in place.

Look. You should never tighten that bolt enough to strip it.

But the Helicoil gives peace of mind that it will not have a corroded thread and can be r&r'd many times.

Me? I would make it 3/8-16.

There are hundreds of millions (if not billions) of cars that never had any problem

[Gary Lewis]

The alloy threads nicely, but it crumbles like cast iron, not raising a chip.

Fine threads and for developing more clamping force for a given torque, or .xxx" per revolution for indication, like a 20 pitch thread would give you.

It's important that both tails of the insert end inside the hole.

The sharp ends are supposed to keep it in place.

Look. You should never tighten that bolt enough to strip it.

But the Helicoil gives peace of mind that it will not have a corroded thread and can be r&r'd many times.

Me? I would make it 3/8-16.

There are hundreds of millions (if not billions) of cars that never had any problem

Jim - I'd already decided on 3/8-16. But my question was on the length of the Helicoil insert. They are supposedly available several lengths, but all I'm finding for quick delivery are the .562" length. And since the tab on the alternator is .840" thick I was wondering if it would be better to find a longer insert - like the .750".

I just ordered the .562" version. And it will be easy to make sure that both tails end inside the hole.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I'd already decided on 3/8-16. But my question was on the length of the Helicoil insert. They are supposedly available several lengths, but all I'm finding for quick delivery are the .562" length. And since the tab on the alternator is .840" thick I was wondering if it would be better to find a longer insert - like the .750".

I just ordered the .562" version. And it will be easy to make sure that both tails end inside the hole.

Ok.

12 hours previous I thought you were going 7/16-20?

[Gary Lewis]

Ok.

12 hours previous I thought you were going 7/16-20?

Maybe. I don't remember.

Anyway, I got about two dozen more things blasted and PC'd, inc the fuel rails. I had a fleeting thought of just buying in new rails, but when they came in between $150 and $200 I decided to PC them. Took a bit of time to get them well blasted given all the nooks and crannies, and then to ensure there was powder everywhere, but they turned out pretty good. Pics in a bit.

But, I had to remove the nylon fuel lines between the two sides and now I need to find the right replacement hose. I had assumed that either the 1/4" return or the 5/16" supply from a Dorman repair kit would work, but no dice. The smaller line isn't about to go and the larger line is too large.

The pieces that came off with a bit of heat have an inner liner, as you can see below. And the ID of the liner measures about 9/32", which I can't find so far on the interweb. But 9/32" equates to 7.14 mm, so maybe these are 7mm?

Here's a pic of the 1/4 line on the bottom, the two lines I removed, and the 5/16" on the top:

And, here are pics of the PC'd rails in place w/o the connecting lines nor injectors:

[Gary Lewis]

Ok.

12 hours previous I thought you were going 7/16-20?

Maybe. I don't remember.

Anyway, I got about two dozen more things blasted and PC'd, inc the fuel rails. I had a fleeting thought of just buying in new rails, but when they came in between $150 and $200 I decided to PC them. Took a bit of time to get them well blasted given all the nooks and crannies, and then to ensure there was powder everywhere, but they turned out pretty good. Pics in a bit.

But, I had to remove the nylon fuel lines between the two sides and now I need to find the right replacement hose. I had assumed that either the 1/4" return or the 5/16" supply from a Dorman repair kit would work, but no dice. The smaller line isn't about to go and the larger line is too large.

The pieces that came off with a bit of heat have an inner liner, as you can see below. And the ID of the liner measures about 9/32", which I can't find so far on the interweb. But 9/32" equates to 7.14 mm, so maybe these are 7mm?

Here's a pic of the 1/4 line on the bottom, the two lines I removed, and the 5/16" on the top:

And, here are pics of the PC'd rails in place w/o the connecting lines nor injectors:

I found this regarding the tubing that ties the fuel rails together:

Ford Muscle Forums/Ford Fuel Rail Rehab: I don't like the way he removes the old hose with a wire wheel as it is so easy to get the old tubing off with a heat gun. Anyway, he recommends fuel injection hose rated SAE J30R9 in 1/4" size, and he uses EFI hose clamps. Plus, he lubes the inside of the hose with engine oil.

So, if 1/4" hose is right, then maybe I can get that 1/4" nylon line on? Think I'll give it a try.