Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Did the following:

 

1. Assumed that the truck had 30% (5.7 gallons) of gas left (19 gallons - (160 miles/12 MPG)) so in the shop I set the MeterMatch to read just above 1/4 of a tank with what was in there using the mid-low calibration point.

 

Then I drove to the station and added 8.5 gallons, which I figured would put it at 14.2 gallons which is 74.5%, and then set the MeterMatch to read 3/4 tank with the mid-high calibration point.

 

Added 4.1 gallons, which filled the tank completely and the gauge read above Full. (Actually I overfilled the tank because when I got home there was gas dripping off the front of the tank. )

 

Then I did the math: 159.3 miles/12.584 gallons = 12.6 MPG. Not at all bad for that trip. Lots of hills, running on cruise half the time, and lots of wind - with us on the way up and directly against us on the way back.

 

However, I noticed on the drive to the filling station that while the gauge read above 1/4 when I set the mid-low calibration point in the shop with the engine off, it only read 1/4 with the engine on. I gave the mid-low two more "up" button pushes to correct this, but when I got home I was reading the instructions more closely and found this:

 

Early Ford/Mopar Gauges with Mechanical Regulators: If you are controlling a gauge that is powered by a mechanical voltage regulator in the dash panel(such as early Ford and Chrysler products), you can reset the MeterMatch to near-correct values byperforming the reset operation: (1) power off, (2) setting the rotary switch Ѳ to seven, (3) holdingdown the Save button and finally (4) applying power until the LED blinks. This will also turn onVoltage Correction which is necessary when using a vibrator-type instrument voltage regulator.If you have an electronic regulator in your vehicle, Voltage Correction should be turned off. You canset to near-correct values for Ford/Mopar gauges with electronic regulators by resetting theMeterMatch exactly as above, but hold both the Save and Up buttons down, rather than just theSave button.Both Ford/Mopar resets populate switch settings 1, 2, and 4. 2 is for ½ tank

 

Voltage Correction:Most gauges are connected to a voltage regulator in the instrument wiring so that they get a constantvoltage whether the engine is running or not. However, if this is not the case, when you calibrate yourgauge at one voltage (for example, engine not running, battery at +12.5V), then start the vehicle andthe voltage rises (for example to +13.8V), the gauge reading might change significantly. If you runinto this, MeterMatch has an automatic voltage correction feature that corrects the reading fordifferent voltages. To enable this feature: (1) remove power from the MeterMatch, (2) set the rotaryswitch Ѳ to position "0" (normal operating), then (3) press and hold the Up button while applyingpower to the MeterMatch. Hold it until the LED blinks after power is applied. MeterMatch willremember this setting in future use. If you wish to remove the voltage correction feature, repeat thesame process, but hold the Dn button rather than the Up button. Note that if you change this setting,the gauge may need to be recalibrated with the new setting.

 

I don't believe I turned Voltage Correction off and I do have an electronic ICVR, so I may need to turn it off if these new settings don't get it where I want it. But they have to be better than what I had, which was a fall off from Full very quickly and then staying just above Empty for a looooooong time. We shall see - maybe on Tuesday as we plan to go out again.

Used the truck yesterday to help move a lady and then to help Keith Dickson and sons load up the Wrongbed truck, and I'm happy to say that the gas gauge appears to be doing much better. So apparently my tweaks to the MeterMatch did the trick.So today I looked under it to see if I could spot where the gas leak was coming from. In the pic on the right you can see where the dirt was washed away from the fuel delivery module gasket. And in the pic on the left you can see the tracks it left on the side of the tank, with the screwdriver showing where the FDM is.I had problems with that early on and thought I had it fixed. Apparently not. Looks like I need to lower the tank and redo the gasket - again. :nabble_smiley_sad:We plan to take the truck on another trip on Tuesday so I'll use that tank and see if I can get most of the gas out and then drop it later in the week. But I guess I'd better get a gasket on order.

[Gary Lewis]

Used the truck yesterday to help move a lady and then to help Keith Dickson and sons load up the Wrongbed truck, and I'm happy to say that the gas gauge appears to be doing much better. So apparently my tweaks to the MeterMatch did the trick.

So today I looked under it to see if I could spot where the gas leak was coming from. In the pic on the right you can see where the dirt was washed away from the fuel delivery module gasket. And in the pic on the left you can see the tracks it left on the side of the tank, with the screwdriver showing where the FDM is.

I had problems with that early on and thought I had it fixed. Apparently not. Looks like I need to lower the tank and redo the gasket - again.

We plan to take the truck on another trip on Tuesday so I'll use that tank and see if I can get most of the gas out and then drop it later in the week. But I guess I'd better get a gasket on order.

Took the truck down to Honey Springs Battlefield, which was one of the most pivotal battles fought in Oklahoma Territory during the Civil War. And I'm here to tell you that the newly-calibrated fuel gauge is wonderful. I think it is very accurate as I kept running numbers in my head on how much gas we should have used for those miles @ 12.6 MPG and the gauge was pretty much spot-on. And it sure is comforting to know how much fuel you really have.

But, in the interest of having a lighter tank to deal with tomorrow when I install the new o-ring we did the whole trip on the mid-ship 19 gallon tan. And we didn't run out although the gauge had been on E for quite some time when we got home.

The trip odo is sitting on 245.1 miles, but with the 1% error that means we covered 247.6 miles. Divide that by 19.0, assuming that's what the tank will take to be full, and my calculator says we got 13.0 MPG.

 

[grumpin]

Took the truck down to Honey Springs Battlefield, which was one of the most pivotal battles fought in Oklahoma Territory during the Civil War. And I'm here to tell you that the newly-calibrated fuel gauge is wonderful. I think it is very accurate as I kept running numbers in my head on how much gas we should have used for those miles @ 12.6 MPG and the gauge was pretty much spot-on. And it sure is comforting to know how much fuel you really have.

But, in the interest of having a lighter tank to deal with tomorrow when I install the new o-ring we did the whole trip on the mid-ship 19 gallon tan. And we didn't run out although the gauge had been on E for quite some time when we got home.

The trip odo is sitting on 245.1 miles, but with the 1% error that means we covered 247.6 miles. Divide that by 19.0, assuming that's what the tank will take to be full, and my calculator says we got 13.0 MPG.

That’s great MPG for a 460, and your truck is pretty heavy as she sits.

Good job on the gauge.

[Gary Lewis]

That’s great MPG for a 460, and your truck is pretty heavy as she sits.

Good job on the gauge.

Thanks, Dane.

And yes, the truck is heavy. Might be due to the winch, or the extra battery, or the inverter, or the compressor, or the loaded tool box, or the bed cover, or...

But that 460 doesn't seem to mind. Drop that ZF5 into 5th and motor on down the highway.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Dane.And yes, the truck is heavy. Might be due to the winch, or the extra battery, or the inverter, or the compressor, or the loaded tool box, or the bed cover, or... :nabble_thinking-26_orig:But that 460 doesn't seem to mind. Drop that ZF5 into 5th and motor on down the highway.

I put the truck on the lift this morning to lower the tank and put the new FDM gasket in. But first I wanted to see if I could locate the rattle or "chuckle" I've been hearing after I put the spring clamps on. And it appears that I have a loose wheel bearing.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I put the truck on the lift this morning to lower the tank and put the new FDM gasket in. But first I wanted to see if I could locate the rattle or "chuckle" I've been hearing after I put the spring clamps on. And it appears that I have a loose wheel bearing.

 

And now on to the fuel tank sealing. I dropped the midship tank down, cleaned it up, and took the fuel delivery module loose. The gasket that was on there looked fine, which bothered me 'cause it was obviously leaking. So I put Permatex Pipe Joint Compound on the groove in the tank, put the new gasket in the groove, gooed it with Permatex, and tapped the lock ring in place.Then I capped the supply and return ports and put 3 PSI into the rollover valve, as shown below. There are no active bubbles on the FDM opening, although there are some bubbles there from spraying the soap solution on, but take a look at the rollover valve.Here's the rollover valve a bit closer, and it has active bubbles. It has now been pulled and both the gasket/tank and valve/gasket interfaces have been Permatexed. I'll wait until tomorrow to test it as it needs to set up, but I'll bet it fixes that problem. If so I'll put it all back together and move on to the wheel bearing.

[Gary Lewis]

And now on to the fuel tank sealing. I dropped the midship tank down, cleaned it up, and took the fuel delivery module loose. The gasket that was on there looked fine, which bothered me 'cause it was obviously leaking. So I put Permatex Pipe Joint Compound on the groove in the tank, put the new gasket in the groove, gooed it with Permatex, and tapped the lock ring in place.

Then I capped the supply and return ports and put 3 PSI into the rollover valve, as shown below. There are no active bubbles on the FDM opening, although there are some bubbles there from spraying the soap solution on, but take a look at the rollover valve.

Here's the rollover valve a bit closer, and it has active bubbles. It has now been pulled and both the gasket/tank and valve/gasket interfaces have been Permatexed. I'll wait until tomorrow to test it as it needs to set up, but I'll bet it fixes that problem. If so I'll put it all back together and move on to the wheel bearing.

Well, bummer! There's something else going on here.

First thing this morn I put 3 PSI on the tank and sprayed it with the soapy mix and didn't find any bubbles. Yippee? I thought so - until I noticed that there was a slow stream of liquid coming off of the fuel delivery module (FDM) flange. And it kept coming far longer than the soapy spray should have.

So I dried it with a paper towel, which smelled a bit like gas when I was done, and then blew it dry with compressed air. Then, with it dry I put the 3 PSI back on. In the pic you'll see a bead of gasoline inside the red oval. And if you look really closely there's a stream of gas flowing down the tank, with the right edge pointed to by the red arrow.

The tank is really close to empty and there's no chance that the level of gas can be up to the lip. But the FDM has a reservoir and yesterday it was full. So full that when I tried to pull the FDM it was obvious that I was going to spill gas due to the contortions I'd have to make the FDM go through to get it out. So I'm thinking that somehow that gas is coming out.

Hmmmm, what if it is being pushed past that plastic caps I have on the supply and return ports?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, bummer! There's something else going on here.

First thing this morn I put 3 PSI on the tank and sprayed it with the soapy mix and didn't find any bubbles. Yippee? I thought so - until I noticed that there was a slow stream of liquid coming off of the fuel delivery module (FDM) flange. And it kept coming far longer than the soapy spray should have.

So I dried it with a paper towel, which smelled a bit like gas when I was done, and then blew it dry with compressed air. Then, with it dry I put the 3 PSI back on. In the pic you'll see a bead of gasoline inside the red oval. And if you look really closely there's a stream of gas flowing down the tank, with the right edge pointed to by the red arrow.

The tank is really close to empty and there's no chance that the level of gas can be up to the lip. But the FDM has a reservoir and yesterday it was full. So full that when I tried to pull the FDM it was obvious that I was going to spill gas due to the contortions I'd have to make the FDM go through to get it out. So I'm thinking that somehow that gas is coming out.

Hmmmm, what if it is being pushed past that plastic caps I have on the supply and return ports?

If the stream is in the same spot I'd say your FDM has a leak that's under pressure when the pump is running (or the tank has 3psi)

It never really made sense that the O-ring is leaking with the tank below full. It is new, and resilient after all.....

So I guess it's down to was it the fuel line connection or is there a seam or joint leak in the FDM itself?

If it was a substantial leak with the pump on your think that mpg would drop.

I think I'd want to have it idling on the ground and go under there with a creeper to have a look

Not a fan of running vehicles unmanned on the lift. No quick way to shut it off, etc..

[Gary Lewis]

If the stream is in the same spot I'd say your FDM has a leak that's under pressure when the pump is running (or the tank has 3psi)

It never really made sense that the O-ring is leaking with the tank below full. It is new, and resilient after all.....

So I guess it's down to was it the fuel line connection or is there a seam or joint leak in the FDM itself?

If it was a substantial leak with the pump on your think that mpg would drop.

I think I'd want to have it idling on the ground and go under there with a creeper to have a look

Not a fan of running vehicles unmanned on the lift. No quick way to shut it off, etc..

Jim - I don't think it leaked unless I over-filled the tank, which would put gas right against both the rollover valve and the FDM's opening. And the tracks suggested that the FDM opening was the source of the leak.

But I think it is sealed now. The leak I had this morning appears to be past the cap I put on the supply port of the FDM since in the pic below you can see that the piece of paper towel on it is soaked while the one on the return is dry.

I'm going to attempt to seal it and then put pressure on the tank again and prove that it is sealed.

And I sure don't want to start it while on the lift. I've never thought that's safe.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I don't think it leaked unless I over-filled the tank, which would put gas right against both the rollover valve and the FDM's opening. And the tracks suggested that the FDM opening was the source of the leak.

But I think it is sealed now. The leak I had this morning appears to be past the cap I put on the supply port of the FDM since in the pic below you can see that the piece of paper towel on it is soaked while the one on the return is dry.

I'm going to attempt to seal it and then put pressure on the tank again and prove that it is sealed.

And I sure don't want to start it while on the lift. I've never thought that's safe.

I was right! I plugged the supply and return ports and put air back to it. After 20 minutes there were no leaks of gas, and a copious spray of soapy water got no bubbles at all - including on the filler hose.

So it is now going back together.