Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I should have put them on the other way 'round. And I seriously doubt that I can unfold them w/o damage. So I'll drive it and see what marks are put on the clamp, and if there are some then I might try to swap them around.

Well, several things to report - especially since I didn't actually post yesterday's results.

First, I checked the width of the spring clamps vs that of the shackle and found that the clamps are .175" narrower than the clamp. So I don't think there will be a problem there, but we'll see after I drive it some.

Second, I got the holes punched & drilled for the 12V power ports, the holes painted to ensure they won't rust, and the ports installed. And I drilled the hole for the grommet to the security switch, painted the hole, and installed the grommet, which you can see in the lower right of the pic below. And yes, before you ask the tail light does go in easily.

Then I added the power and ground wires that came with the ports. And I ran the wiring for the LED light strips down under the bed and connected them together, although I have yet to put convolute on them and secure them down with zip ties.

So now I just have to run the power and security wires back along the frame, connect everything up, and then glue the strips up under the gunwales.

[1986F150Six]

Well, several things to report - especially since I didn't actually post yesterday's results.

First, I checked the width of the spring clamps vs that of the shackle and found that the clamps are .175" narrower than the clamp. So I don't think there will be a problem there, but we'll see after I drive it some.

Second, I got the holes punched & drilled for the 12V power ports, the holes painted to ensure they won't rust, and the ports installed. And I drilled the hole for the grommet to the security switch, painted the hole, and installed the grommet, which you can see in the lower right of the pic below. And yes, before you ask the tail light does go in easily.

Then I added the power and ground wires that came with the ports. And I ran the wiring for the LED light strips down under the bed and connected them together, although I have yet to put convolute on them and secure them down with zip ties.

So now I just have to run the power and security wires back along the frame, connect everything up, and then glue the strips up under the gunwales.

Looks good, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Looks good, Gary!

Thanks, David. I'm just now getting to the shop as we had a SLOW morning after having the "utes" over from church last night. Hamburgers and a movie.

Anyway, I hope to get some of the wiring done today. We shall see.

[1986F150Six]

Thanks, David. I'm just now getting to the shop as we had a SLOW morning after having the "utes" over from church last night. Hamburgers and a movie.

"utes" = youths for those who might wonder?

[Gary Lewis]

"utes" = youths for those who might wonder?

 

[Gary Lewis]

"utes" = youths for those who might wonder?

 

No pictures today, but I'm close to being done.Ran the security input and the power wire down the frame and up into the tail light opening, and it is covered with convolute as well as zip tied down about every foot - which isn't easy to do beside the fuel tanks. Then I put convolute on the cables for the LED strips, fed them through the various openings, and zip tied them down under the bed.Next I put ring tongue connectors on the ground wires of the two 12V power ports and the LED strips so they can be put over one of the mounting screws for the power ports, which are threaded into the bed. And I tested the LED lights by jumpering the power wire to them. Plus I tested the security wire by grounding it after the alarm was set - LOUD!So all I have left in the wiring is to put a ground on the security switch, hook the security wire up to the switch, and then connect the power to lights and power ports. Then it'll be time to glue to strips up under the gunwales and I think I'll be done.

[ArdWrknTrk]

No pictures today, but I'm close to being done.

Ran the security input and the power wire down the frame and up into the tail light opening, and it is covered with convolute as well as zip tied down about every foot - which isn't easy to do beside the fuel tanks. Then I put convolute on the cables for the LED strips, fed them through the various openings, and zip tied them down under the bed.

Next I put ring tongue connectors on the ground wires of the two 12V power ports and the LED strips so they can be put over one of the mounting screws for the power ports, which are threaded into the bed. And I tested the LED lights by jumpering the power wire to them. Plus I tested the security wire by grounding it after the alarm was set - LOUD!

So all I have left in the wiring is to put a ground on the security switch, hook the security wire up to the switch, and then connect the power to lights and power ports. Then it'll be time to glue to strips up under the gunwales and I think I'll be done.

What's the ground path for the power ports?

I'm sure you mentioned, but my brain just can't process the details today.

[Gary Lewis]

What's the ground path for the power ports?

I'm sure you mentioned, but my brain just can't process the details today.

The bed. I have a #4 ground from the frame to the bed, and several grounds from the batteries to the frame. But I'm really not expecting to have much load on the power ports. Mainly want them so I can pop a USB charger into them to keep a lantern charged or, if we do go with a roof top tent, to run USB power into it at night.

[Gary Lewis]

The bed. I have a #4 ground from the frame to the bed, and several grounds from the batteries to the frame. But I'm really not expecting to have much load on the power ports. Mainly want them so I can pop a USB charger into them to keep a lantern charged or, if we do go with a roof top tent, to run USB power into it at night.

Got the wiring done, and it all works. First, a shot of the magnetic switch all wired up. It clears the magnet just right, and the alarm goes off as the 'gate comes open about an inch.

And now for the wiring. Here's what the driver's side tail light opening looks like. Lots of wire in there - 4 grounds, 3 power wires, and the security wire. And about 16 soldered connections. All stuffed in there.

But, lest you think that there'll be a problem getting the tail light back in, here's the view from the rear and you can see that it all tucks in nicely:

And with the wiring done I played with a piece of 1 x 8" to hold the strip up. This piece is just to test as I have a longer one that I'll use when I do it for real, hopefully tomorrow.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the wiring done, and it all works. First, a shot of the magnetic switch all wired up. It clears the magnet just right, and the alarm goes off as the 'gate comes open about an inch.

And now for the wiring. Here's what the driver's side tail light opening looks like. Lots of wire in there - 4 grounds, 3 power wires, and the security wire. And about 16 soldered connections. All stuffed in there.

But, lest you think that there'll be a problem getting the tail light back in, here's the view from the rear and you can see that it all tucks in nicely:

And with the wiring done I played with a piece of 1 x 8" to hold the strip up. This piece is just to test as I have a longer one that I'll use when I do it for real, hopefully tomorrow.

Wiring seems nice and tidy!

I strongly suggest packing tape on the edge of your board as a release.

With G-Flex you should have plenty of time to work.