Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, as it turns out I do have a 1x8" that's plenty long enough - similar to its shorter brother in the pic below. But I'll have to remove the middle clamps for the bed cover tracks in order to get it in place, although that's not a huge deal. And I'll have to trim the piece to get by the Hi-Lift jack mounts. In fact, I may have to pull them in order to get up in there.

 

But looking at the area up under there got me to wondering if my plan to put the LED strips up against the flange and shooting straight down is the best approach. That's because the flanges will cut the light off that would be going to the center of the bed, although some reflects off the sides of the bed. But that's the best place to put them from a mounting standpoint as any other place will mean the strip will have to go out and around the center stake pocket. This way there's just enough room between the pocket and the flange for the strip. And this way blocks the light from your eyes unless you lay down under the side and look up.

 

Given that I decided to do a test by placing the strips up there, covering the windows as best I could, and turning the lights off. I think it'll work this way, and probably gives enough light to do most things by, but if we are cooking with a stove on the tailgate I think we'll need another light - which can plug into one of the to-be 12V power ports.

 

Thoughts? Better ideas?

 

I think the under rail light is fine for loading/unloading or seeing what's in the bed.You may remember that I have two mini flood lights mounted on my lumber rack for much the same purpose.Task/area lighting is a whole different matter.I keep a couple of chargeable pop up camping lanterns for that sort of thing.I definitely wouldn't want to have to be plugged in.In fact I was using one last night to hook up a new kitchen sink at my sister's.

[BigBrother-84]

I think it'll work this way, and probably gives enough light to do most things by, but if we are cooking with a stove on the tailgate I think we'll need another light.

I really like the result, gives a lot of light for the bed. And probably enough for some tail gate activities. Very useful, I keep this idea for future projects.

Gary, if some more light is needed... well, a simple head light could also do the job.

[Gary Lewis]

I think the under rail light is fine for loading/unloading or seeing what's in the bed.

You may remember that I have two mini flood lights mounted on my lumber rack for much the same purpose.

Task/area lighting is a whole different matter.

I keep a couple of chargeable pop up camping lanterns for that sort of thing.

I definitely wouldn't want to have to be plugged in.

In fact I was using one last night to hook up a new kitchen sink at my sister's.

Yes, seeing what's in the bed is about all those lights are good for. But they could be pretty handy for that.

As for the flood lights, that's another reason for having the "rack" that would hold a roof top tent. It would be easy to add area lights like you've done to really light up the camping area. But I don't have the rack nor the tent, so will have to make do with portable lighting - at least for now.

And yes, rechargeable lanterns are the way to go, but I was thinking about charging them or keeping them charged. The power ports will be hot at all times, so it would be easy to plug lights in for charging during the day while we are driving - assuming that the lantern(s) would be too big to put behind the seat and connect to the charging station there.

But doing some research I find that one of the top-rated camping lanterns, the Goal Zero Lighthouse 600 Lantern & USB Power Hub, measures just 6.5 x 5 x 4.5 inches so it would probably fit behind the seat. I'm not saying that's the best way to go, but we might could put the lanterns behind the seat with the flashlights, head lamps, and string lights. (Yep, we have lights.)

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think it'll work this way, and probably gives enough light to do most things by, but if we are cooking with a stove on the tailgate I think we'll need another light.

I really like the result, gives a lot of light for the bed. And probably enough for some tail gate activities. Very useful, I keep this idea for future projects.

Gary, if some more light is needed... well, a simple head light could also do the job.

Thanks, Jeff. These lights are nicely designed as they have plugs that connect to a wye with a switch in it, so you can feed the wire through the hole in the top of the rear stake pocket and then down under the truck to the other side to the other strip. So you only need to connect power and ground in one spot.

And yes, a head lamp will work. But while I have a good one of those I'm also thinking about a lantern. Plus I have the LED backup lights under the bumper that I can switch on via the switch in Mission Control. And the string lights. I like lights!

[grumpin]

Thanks, Jeff. These lights are nicely designed as they have plugs that connect to a wye with a switch in it, so you can feed the wire through the hole in the top of the rear stake pocket and then down under the truck to the other side to the other strip. So you only need to connect power and ground in one spot.

And yes, a head lamp will work. But while I have a good one of those I'm also thinking about a lantern. Plus I have the LED backup lights under the bumper that I can switch on via the switch in Mission Control. And the string lights. I like lights!

I like the bed lights. Good light without being in your eyes.

[Gary Lewis]

I like the bed lights. Good light without being in your eyes.

Thanks, Dane. You are right, the light from those strips isn't in your eyes. I turned on the cargo light on the back of the cab, which has an LED in it and is pretty bright, but it is literally in your eyes and really doesn't help much at all.

Talked to my son tonight and we have lots of little details to sort out. I think we'll get a camping table of some kind on which we can put the Coleman stove. If it is set up a few feet behind the truck we can light the area between with the LED backup lights under the bumper. And with a lantern on the table we should have plenty of light for cooking. The red bags under the top canister are camp chairs, so they could be set between the truck and the table.

He has tents and sleeping bags so when we go done there for Christmas perhaps I can bring some of those things back.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Dane. You are right, the light from those strips isn't in your eyes. I turned on the cargo light on the back of the cab, which has an LED in it and is pretty bright, but it is literally in your eyes and really doesn't help much at all.

Talked to my son tonight and we have lots of little details to sort out. I think we'll get a camping table of some kind on which we can put the Coleman stove. If it is set up a few feet behind the truck we can light the area between with the LED backup lights under the bumper. And with a lantern on the table we should have plenty of light for cooking. The red bags under the top canister are camp chairs, so they could be set between the truck and the table.

He has tents and sleeping bags so when we go done there for Christmas perhaps I can bring some of those things back.

I've not gotten much done on the truck of late as we've had other things going on. But I did play with it a bit this afternoon and decided to work on the tailgate switch and magnet as being the easiest thing to get done - and then didn't get it quite done. But, I think I have it well in hand.

First, I decided to mount the switch near the bulge in the bed where one of the screws goes that holds the tail light on. That'll give me a bit more real estate for a hole and grommet for the wires to go through. So I drilled the mounting holes and then started aligning the switch and the magnet. The switch will be held on with screws and the magnet being held on ultimately with the same glue as the LED strips since there's no room for the screw heads between the tailgate and the bed. But for alignment purposes I'm using the double-stick tape that's on the magnet.

Below is a shot through the gap between the bed and the tailgate, and you can see that things are just about aligned with the .325" spacing I currently have between the bed and the switch. But that spacing is provided by three 6x32 nuts stacked, which I don't like, so the next thing to do is to make a spacer out of aluminum to hold the switch out that far.

Then there are shots of where I mounted things. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow - slowly but in the way I like doing things.

[Gary Lewis]

I've not gotten much done on the truck of late as we've had other things going on. But I did play with it a bit this afternoon and decided to work on the tailgate switch and magnet as being the easiest thing to get done - and then didn't get it quite done. But, I think I have it well in hand.

First, I decided to mount the switch near the bulge in the bed where one of the screws goes that holds the tail light on. That'll give me a bit more real estate for a hole and grommet for the wires to go through. So I drilled the mounting holes and then started aligning the switch and the magnet. The switch will be held on with screws and the magnet being held on ultimately with the same glue as the LED strips since there's no room for the screw heads between the tailgate and the bed. But for alignment purposes I'm using the double-stick tape that's on the magnet.

Below is a shot through the gap between the bed and the tailgate, and you can see that things are just about aligned with the .325" spacing I currently have between the bed and the switch. But that spacing is provided by three 6x32 nuts stacked, which I don't like, so the next thing to do is to make a spacer out of aluminum to hold the switch out that far.

Then there are shots of where I mounted things. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow - slowly but in the way I like doing things.

I made a spacer for the tailgate switch today and it looks like it'll work. But I have yet to drill the hole for the wires to the switch. However, I did mix up some of the epoxy today and glued the magnet on, so maybe tomorrow I can finish the security system up.

And I got the spring clamps and liner in today and installed them. However, I'm not sure how well they are going to work. I put them between the factory clamp and the hanger, as you can see on the left, and it it is tight fit. But I didn't think about how the hanger rotates when weight comes on the springs, and the picture on the right was taken when I let it down off the lift. I'll have to drive it to see if the hanger binds on the clamp.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I made a spacer for the tailgate switch today and it looks like it'll work. But I have yet to drill the hole for the wires to the switch. However, I did mix up some of the epoxy today and glued the magnet on, so maybe tomorrow I can finish the security system up.

And I got the spring clamps and liner in today and installed them. However, I'm not sure how well they are going to work. I put them between the factory clamp and the hanger, as you can see on the left, and it it is tight fit. But I didn't think about how the hanger rotates when weight comes on the springs, and the picture on the right was taken when I let it down off the lift. I'll have to drive it to see if the hanger binds on the clamp.

Might fit better if the strap was on top and the plate on the bottom?

I don't know (or think) you can unfold those things without damage.

[Gary Lewis]

Might fit better if the strap was on top and the plate on the bottom?

I don't know (or think) you can unfold those things without damage.

Yes, I should have put them on the other way 'round. And I seriously doubt that I can unfold them w/o damage. So I'll drive it and see what marks are put on the clamp, and if there are some then I might try to swap them around.