Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I can figure out how to prop it up there, but it is really flexible to will have to have a lot of support.

As for the switch, now I see what you are saying and that makes sense. I wonder about a micro switch with a lever? I guess I'll look...

Take something like a yard stick or 1x2 and put some packing tape on it so it doesn't get glued on permanently.

Prop the stick up under the led strip.

[Gary Lewis]

Take something like a yard stick or 1x2 and put some packing tape on it so it doesn't get glued on permanently.

Prop the stick up under the led strip.

That's a very good suggestion. A 1x2 on edge would be just about the right size as the strips are ~1" wide.

I might be able to use some padded clamps that I have to hold the board and strip up. Might have to glue spacers on in strategic places where I can get the clamps on, but two clamps might just do it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Back on the adhesive, I see 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000, and it has a cure time of 1 to 2 days - better than 5 - 7 days.

So is this the right stuff for the Line-X liner? I probably won't be able to scuff it with a disc as it is too tight, but I can get in there with some abrasive. Will that work?

Just scuff and wipe down.

I didn't realize that you can't get a little surface prep disc up under the rail

Maybe you want to try something like West System Six-10.

It's a non sagging epoxy in a caulk tube.

I've never tried bonding to polyurethane, but I bet it would be ok.

They have a tech line. You can call and ask.

My tethered connection is terribly slow, so I might refrain from banter tonight.

[Gary Lewis]

Just scuff and wipe down.

I didn't realize that you can't get a little surface prep disc up under the rail

Maybe you want to try something like West System Six-10.

It's a non sagging epoxy in a caulk tube.

I've never tried bonding to polyurethane, but I bet it would be ok.

They have a tech line. You can call and ask.

My tethered connection is terribly slow, so I might refrain from banter tonight.

Thanks. I'll give them a call.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks. I'll give them a call.

We are running errands today so no work will get done on the truck, but a bit of background stuff is getting done.

First, I got notification that Eaton has shipped the spring clamps, but nothing was said about the spring liner so they may have been out.

Second, I talked to Greg at West Systems and he recommended their G-Flex 655 since it is designed to adhere to plastics. And he said I should hit the liner with a wire brush or sandpaper and then wipe it down with a damp paper towel. Cure time would be overnight.

Last, I went into an automotive electronics place that does security systems and they had the magnetic switch I was looking for. They’ve used bunches of them with no failures, and it is made by DEI so should be good.

[ArdWrknTrk]

We are running errands today so no work will get done on the truck, but a bit of background stuff is getting done.

First, I got notification that Eaton has shipped the spring clamps, but nothing was said about the spring liner so they may have been out.

Second, I talked to Greg at West Systems and he recommended their G-Flex 655 since it is designed to adhere to plastics. And he said I should hit the liner with a wire brush or sandpaper and then wipe it down with a damp paper towel. Cure time would be overnight.

Last, I went into an automotive electronics place that does security systems and they had the magnetic switch I was looking for. They’ve used bunches of them with no failures, and it is made by DEI so should be good.

G-Flex would be the go-to for plastics bonding but I figured the extended nozzle and no sag nature of Six10 would give it the advantage here.

I'm glad the car alarm place had a quality switch in stock for you.

[Gary Lewis]

G-Flex would be the go-to for plastics bonding but I figured the extended nozzle and no sag nature of Six10 would give it the advantage here.I'm glad the car alarm place had a quality switch in stock for you.

I agree that the Six10 would have been easier since you just squeeze it out of the tube and through the mixer instead of mixing up the two parts separately and then applying. Which prompted me to ask Greg about maybe using it instead of 655, but he maintained that 655 was the way to go. And I'm ok with that as I have almost full tubes of the two components, so I won't have to order anything.

 

I wonder if I should try to get the adhesive tape off the back of the LED strips? I'll bet I should so the G-Flex is directly in contact with the plastic of the strips, but I doubt that'll be very easy.

 

Here's my plan of attack:

 

1. Run the power and security sense wires back along the frame to the left tail light cavity.

 

Drill/cut the openings for the 12v power ports, and install & wire them

 

Drill the hole for the wires to the magnetic switch, install a grommet, install the switch and magnet, and connect the wires

 

Put the light strips and their wiring in place, meaning feed the wire through the hole in the top of the rear stake pockets, down through the stake pockets and under the bed, and connect them as well as zip tie them

 

Make a support out of a 1x2 just long enough to hold an LED strip, add longer pieces in two places where I can get padded clamps on, cover the top of the support with packing tape, and zip tie an LED strip to the support. (Yes, the zip ties will be in the glue and will have to be cut off, but they will ensure the LED strip stays in place.)

 

Glue the light strips & the switch in place with G-Flex, but apply it sparingly so it won't squeeze out and glue the board to the strip - or anything else.

 

Thoughts? Better ideas?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree that the Six10 would have been easier since you just squeeze it out of the tube and through the mixer instead of mixing up the two parts separately and then applying. Which prompted me to ask Greg about maybe using it instead of 655, but he maintained that 655 was the way to go. And I'm ok with that as I have almost full tubes of the two components, so I won't have to order anything.

 

I wonder if I should try to get the adhesive tape off the back of the LED strips? I'll bet I should so the G-Flex is directly in contact with the plastic of the strips, but I doubt that'll be very easy.

 

Here's my plan of attack:

 

1. Run the power and security sense wires back along the frame to the left tail light cavity.

 

Drill/cut the openings for the 12v power ports, and install & wire them

 

Drill the hole for the wires to the magnetic switch, install a grommet, install the switch and magnet, and connect the wires

 

Put the light strips and their wiring in place, meaning feed the wire through the hole in the top of the rear stake pockets, down through the stake pockets and under the bed, and connect them as well as zip tie them

 

Make a support out of a 1x2 just long enough to hold an LED strip, add longer pieces in two places where I can get padded clamps on, cover the top of the support with packing tape, and zip tie an LED strip to the support. (Yes, the zip ties will be in the glue and will have to be cut off, but they will ensure the LED strip stays in place.)

 

Glue the light strips & the switch in place with G-Flex, but apply it sparingly so it won't squeeze out and glue the board to the strip - or anything else.

 

Thoughts? Better ideas?

If you already have G-Flex then I can't see why you wouldn't use it.I might be inclined to use a little strip of scotch tape instead of zip ties to hold the light strip to the caul.The tape will stick just fine to the tape on the caul, will not act as a spacer in the bond area, and will be infinitely easier to get free.And I might just use something wider than 1x2 if you have to build it up to get a clamp on it.If your scrap bin looks like mine there's plenty to choose from.

[Gary Lewis]

If you already have G-Flex then I can't see why you wouldn't use it.

I might be inclined to use a little strip of scotch tape instead of zip ties to hold the light strip to the caul.

The tape will stick just fine to the tape on the caul, will not act as a spacer in the bond area, and will be infinitely easier to get free.

And I might just use something wider than 1x2 if you have to build it up to get a clamp on it.

If your scrap bin looks like mine there's plenty to choose from.

I think the scotch tape idea is a good one.

But my scrap bin is full of angle and tubing, not wood. But I'll see what I have available, and if I have to buy something maybe it should be a 1x4". Hopefully I can slip it up there on edge and put the LED strip right where I want it.

[Gary Lewis]

I think the scotch tape idea is a good one. :nabble_smiley_good:But my scrap bin is full of angle and tubing, not wood. But I'll see what I have available, and if I have to buy something maybe it should be a 1x4". Hopefully I can slip it up there on edge and put the LED strip right where I want it.

Well, as it turns out I do have a 1x8" that's plenty long enough - similar to its shorter brother in the pic below. But I'll have to remove the middle clamps for the bed cover tracks in order to get it in place, although that's not a huge deal. And I'll have to trim the piece to get by the Hi-Lift jack mounts. In fact, I may have to pull them in order to get up in there.

 

But looking at the area up under there got me to wondering if my plan to put the LED strips up against the flange and shooting straight down is the best approach. That's because the flanges will cut the light off that would be going to the center of the bed, although some reflects off the sides of the bed. But that's the best place to put them from a mounting standpoint as any other place will mean the strip will have to go out and around the center stake pocket. This way there's just enough room between the pocket and the flange for the strip. And this way blocks the light from your eyes unless you lay down under the side and look up.

 

Given that I decided to do a test by placing the strips up there, covering the windows as best I could, and turning the lights off. I think it'll work this way, and probably gives enough light to do most things by, but if we are cooking with a stove on the tailgate I think we'll need another light - which can plug into one of the to-be 12V power ports.

 

Thoughts? Better ideas?