Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Just wanted to make sure the suspension is at full droop in that picture of the vent hose? Glad you got the air leaks fixed.

Yes, that's at full droop, so there's plenty of slack.

And I'm thrilled the leaks are fixed. Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that's at full droop, so there's plenty of slack.

And I'm thrilled the leaks are fixed. Thanks!

After lunch I'm going to take Big Blue on a test drive with the new air springs to see if I get any noise from the springs going back into the cradles on bumps. But I did two things this morning to get ready for the test.

First, I wanted to know how much the springs raise the rear at different pressures. So I measured the front at 39 3/4" from the floor to the middle of the wheel well opening and then checked the rear:

PSI Height

100 41 3/8"

80 41"

60 40 3/4"

40 40 1/4

20 39 3/4

10 39 1/2

I think I'm going to run 10 PSI so stopped there since the front and rear are basically level.

The second thing that I did was to pad the rear of the front springs. I got to thinking about the noises I've been hearing from the suspension and realized that with them going on it might be hard to heard the air springs if they made noises. And I'd been suspecting the rear of the front springs to be the noise.

Sure enough, there's maybe 1/8" of space between the two springs at the rear when pried apart. So I put three layers of inner tube rubber between the plastic pad on the lower spring and the upper spring. I know this won't last all that long when dirt gets in there and chews up the rubber, but it should suffice for this test and then I'll come up with a better solution.

However, if y'all have suggestions while I'm out testing please let me know. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

[Gary Lewis]

After lunch I'm going to take Big Blue on a test drive with the new air springs to see if I get any noise from the springs going back into the cradles on bumps. But I did two things this morning to get ready for the test.

First, I wanted to know how much the springs raise the rear at different pressures. So I measured the front at 39 3/4" from the floor to the middle of the wheel well opening and then checked the rear:

PSI Height

100 41 3/8"

80 41"

60 40 3/4"

40 40 1/4

20 39 3/4

10 39 1/2

I think I'm going to run 10 PSI so stopped there since the front and rear are basically level.

The second thing that I did was to pad the rear of the front springs. I got to thinking about the noises I've been hearing from the suspension and realized that with them going on it might be hard to heard the air springs if they made noises. And I'd been suspecting the rear of the front springs to be the noise.

Sure enough, there's maybe 1/8" of space between the two springs at the rear when pried apart. So I put three layers of inner tube rubber between the plastic pad on the lower spring and the upper spring. I know this won't last all that long when dirt gets in there and chews up the rubber, but it should suffice for this test and then I'll come up with a better solution.

However, if y'all have suggestions while I'm out testing please let me know. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

Ok, here's the trip report: The inner tube rubber softened the noise in the front end, but didn't make it go away, and there was no noise from the air springs hitting the cradles.

That meant I could finally shorten the looooong carriage bolts on the cradle mounts. But when I started looking at them I remembered that I wasn't happy with the u-bolts for the springs as they didn't go straight down, instead angled out. My worry was that at some point they might slide in and, therefore, cause the tension to decrease.

The first thought was that I could just loosen the nuts and tap the u-bolts straight, but they didn't want to move easily. I finally put c-clamps on them and tapped, then tightened the clamps and tapped, until I had them straight. And I left the clamps on until I got them torqued down. With that done I shortened those cradle bolts and put the cradle back on and called it quits for the day.

As for the front springs, I think I'm going to order some of the clamps I used on the front of the springs and, hopefully, more of the plastic spring liner material. I think that combo will quieten the springs significantly as it'll reduce the distance the springs can get apart but still let them slide against each other. Here's a pic of the front of the springs and that's what I want to do to the rear of the springs:

And here's a before and after on the rear u-bolts:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here's the trip report: The inner tube rubber softened the noise in the front end, but didn't make it go away, and there was no noise from the air springs hitting the cradles.

That meant I could finally shorten the looooong carriage bolts on the cradle mounts. But when I started looking at them I remembered that I wasn't happy with the u-bolts for the springs as they didn't go straight down, instead angled out. My worry was that at some point they might slide in and, therefore, cause the tension to decrease.

The first thought was that I could just loosen the nuts and tap the u-bolts straight, but they didn't want to move easily. I finally put c-clamps on them and tapped, then tightened the clamps and tapped, until I had them straight. And I left the clamps on until I got them torqued down. With that done I shortened those cradle bolts and put the cradle back on and called it quits for the day.

As for the front springs, I think I'm going to order some of the clamps I used on the front of the springs and, hopefully, more of the plastic spring liner material. I think that combo will quieten the springs significantly as it'll reduce the distance the springs can get apart but still let them slide against each other. Here's a pic of the front of the springs and that's what I want to do to the rear of the springs:

And here's a before and after on the rear u-bolts:

Got the bits on order from Eaton this morning. I highly recommend them for anything to do with springs, and Mike seems to be the one that always answers the phone.

I ordered:

• Two KK10 3" WIDE 2 PIECE REBOUND CLIPS

• Two R500 CLIP ISOLATOR RUBBERS

• 1' of 3" WIDE DELRIN SPRING LINER

Unfortunately they show out of stock on the spring liner, but that's what they showed several years ago when I ordered and Mike found some anyway. So hopefully he'll find some this time as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the bits on order from Eaton this morning. I highly recommend them for anything to do with springs, and Mike seems to be the one that always answers the phone.

I ordered:

• Two KK10 3" WIDE 2 PIECE REBOUND CLIPS

• Two R500 CLIP ISOLATOR RUBBERS

• 1' of 3" WIDE DELRIN SPRING LINER

Unfortunately they show out of stock on the spring liner, but that's what they showed several years ago when I ordered and Mike found some anyway. So hopefully he'll find some this time as well.

Well, I thought I was emerging from the tunnel, but I discovered that I'd forgotten three things: the bed lighting; 12v power ports in the bed; and a tailgate switch for the security system. You can read about the lighting and power ports here, but the switch for the security system is fairly new. (The bed lighting might be needed in Jan or Feb as my son and I are talking about taking our trip then, and the daylight hours are obviously short at that time.)

And I have two questions for y'all:

First, what's the best way to get the LED light strips to stay up under the gunwales? The gunwales are covered with bed liner and I'm pretty sure the adhesive on the LED strips is not going to adhere to that. So do I use a contact spray on both? If so, which one?

Next, the switch. I'd planned to put a plunger switch on the tailgate like I used on the hood, but there's not enough room as the 'gate has about .1" clearance to the bed. So I'm thinking about using a pair of these magnetic switches and the associated magnet. I have a pair similar to those, although mine is closed when the magnet is close and I need it open when the magnet is close and closed when the magnet is away.

But I was able to test the theory, as you can see in the pics below. The first one has the maroon switch and white magnet just showing in the middle of the pic as the tailgate was closing - on my pinkie finger as it turned out. And the next two show the switch and magnet more clearly.

So the 2nd question: Do any of you see a problem with this plan? Or do you see a better way to put a switch in?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I thought I was emerging from the tunnel, but I discovered that I'd forgotten three things: the bed lighting; 12v power ports in the bed; and a tailgate switch for the security system. You can read about the lighting and power ports here, but the switch for the security system is fairly new. (The bed lighting might be needed in Jan or Feb as my son and I are talking about taking our trip then, and the daylight hours are obviously short at that time.)

And I have two questions for y'all:

First, what's the best way to get the LED light strips to stay up under the gunwales? The gunwales are covered with bed liner and I'm pretty sure the adhesive on the LED strips is not going to adhere to that. So do I use a contact spray on both? If so, which one?

Next, the switch. I'd planned to put a plunger switch on the tailgate like I used on the hood, but there's not enough room as the 'gate has about .1" clearance to the bed. So I'm thinking about using a pair of these magnetic switches and the associated magnet. I have a pair similar to those, although mine is closed when the magnet is close and I need it open when the magnet is close and closed when the magnet is away.

But I was able to test the theory, as you can see in the pics below. The first one has the maroon switch and white magnet just showing in the middle of the pic as the tailgate was closing - on my pinkie finger as it turned out. And the next two show the switch and magnet more clearly.

So the 2nd question: Do any of you see a problem with this plan? Or do you see a better way to put a switch in?

I wouldn't use spray adhesive (or any kind of contact cement)

It will definitely fail if overheated, like the black cover is closed in summer.

If the bedliner is urethane I would probably abrade it with a Roloc disc and wipe it clean with alcohol or acetone then use something like a high modulus urethane adhesive. This should be able to fill the pebble texture and make a watertight bond.

If not that, then a polysulphide like 3M 5200.

Is your magnetic switch a micro contact reed switch?

Be sure to test for bouncing and jostling.

Back when I used to fly rockets accidents (mistakes) were too common for me to ignore.

[Gary Lewis]

I wouldn't use spray adhesive (or any kind of contact cement)

It will definitely fail if overheated, like the black cover is closed in summer.

If the bedliner is urethane I would probably abrade it with a Roloc disc and wipe it clean with alcohol or acetone then use something like a high modulus urethane adhesive. This should be able to fill the pebble texture and make a watertight bond.

If not that, then a polysulphide like 3M 5200.

Is your magnetic switch a micro contact reed switch?

Be sure to test for bouncing and jostling.

Back when I used to fly rockets accidents (mistakes) were too common for me to ignore.

Thanks, Jim. I figured you'd know.

Line-X is said to be "Made from a two-part polyurethane elastomer system, LINE-X uses equal parts of an “A” component, or hardener, and a “B” component, or resin." So what should I use? I've found 3M 5200 if that's what you think is best. But the looooong tack time of 48 hours and cure time of 5 - 7 days makes me wonder how I'm going to keep the strips up there.

As for the switch, I'd bet it is a micro reed switch. But I'm not sure why bouncing would be a problem. The alarm system shouldn't be armed if I'm opening or closing the tailgate myself, so bouncing wouldn't be an issue. And if someone opens it will the system is armed the initial contact should set it off. So I must be missing something.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. I figured you'd know.

Line-X is said to be "Made from a two-part polyurethane elastomer system, LINE-X uses equal parts of an “A” component, or hardener, and a “B” component, or resin." So what should I use? I've found 3M 5200 if that's what you think is best. But the looooong tack time of 48 hours and cure time of 5 - 7 days makes me wonder how I'm going to keep the strips up there.

As for the switch, I'd bet it is a micro reed switch. But I'm not sure why bouncing would be a problem. The alarm system shouldn't be armed if I'm opening or closing the tailgate myself, so bouncing wouldn't be an issue. And if someone opens it will the system is armed the initial contact should set it off. So I must be missing something.

3M 4000 is a faster curing modified silane adhesive sealant.

I'm just trying to think of some readily available product that will bridge gaps and cure to a waterproof, heat resistant tenacious bond.

3M has a whole catalog of marine products.

I think you would probably want to have a piece of scrap with packing tape on it propped up under the bed rail with a springy batten or two.

Have a look at how luthiers glue the soundboard on to a guitar, and imagine that inverted.

About the switch... I'm saying that lots of vibration will cause those things to fail eventually.

Bouncing down rutted trails makes me think you should make a careful selection or maybe find something solid state instead of mechanical inside.

[Gary Lewis]

3M 4000 is a faster curing modified silane adhesive sealant.

I'm just trying to think of some readily available product that will bridge gaps and cure to a waterproof, heat resistant tenacious bond.

3M has a whole catalog of marine products.

I think you would probably want to have a piece of scrap with packing tape on it propped up under the bed rail with a springy batten or two.

Have a look at how luthiers glue the soundboard on to a guitar, and imagine that inverted.

About the switch... I'm saying that lots of vibration will cause those things to fail eventually.

Bouncing down rutted trails makes me think you should make a careful selection or maybe find something solid state instead of mechanical inside.

Yes, I can figure out how to prop it up there, but it is really flexible to will have to have a lot of support.

As for the switch, now I see what you are saying and that makes sense. I wonder about a micro switch with a lever? I guess I'll look...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I can figure out how to prop it up there, but it is really flexible to will have to have a lot of support.

As for the switch, now I see what you are saying and that makes sense. I wonder about a micro switch with a lever? I guess I'll look...

Back on the adhesive, I see 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000, and it has a cure time of 1 to 2 days - better than 5 - 7 days.

So is this the right stuff for the Line-X liner? I probably won't be able to scuff it with a disc as it is too tight, but I can get in there with some abrasive. Will that work?