Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd forgotten that y'all are getting hit with the storm.

So, if the individual tanks are 6 5/8 x 18 1/2" then I'm going to guess the motor/compressor to be 6" x 14" based on the pics below.

And I agree that splitting the parts up would be easy. I'll check later, but I'm thinking the motor/compressor can go as said beside the tool box and ahead of the wheel well. Possibly turned on its side with the bolts going into the tool box so it can't be easily removed w/o getting into the box. And the regulator/switch/coupler could be mounted right there as well.

As for the tank(s), I think our measurements of the space under the fender and ahead of the tire say that a max height of 8" and a max width of 16" will fit nicely. So the twin tanks would appear to fit, but there are questions in my mind about connections. The inlet to the tanks is on the backside of the top tank, so that would point up when then are laid down. But the drain is on the bottom of the bottom tank, so it would point essentially sideways, and therefore wouldn't drain the tank properly.

However, the single tank unit looks like it might work nicely. The whole unit is said to be L (18.7") x W/D (14.2") x H (14.75"). But the motor/pump sits beside the tank, so if that is 6" then the tank is less than 8". And, the inlet is on top with the drain on the bottom. So perhaps the inlet can go through the bed floor and simplify the connections? And the drain could have a 90 on it to minimize its vulnerability?

The drains are not directly on the bottom, but a bit of an angle towards the front.

It you mounted the twin tanks at a bit of an angle the rear fender would still protect the ball valve supplied as a drain.

And remember, these are coated aluminum tanks.

Neither of mine has any evidence of rust or corrosion inside (obviously)

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd forgotten that y'all are getting hit with the storm.

So, if the individual tanks are 6 5/8 x 18 1/2" then I'm going to guess the motor/compressor to be 6" x 14" based on the pics below.

And I agree that splitting the parts up would be easy. I'll check later, but I'm thinking the motor/compressor can go as said beside the tool box and ahead of the wheel well. Possibly turned on its side with the bolts going into the tool box so it can't be easily removed w/o getting into the box. And the regulator/switch/coupler could be mounted right there as well.

As for the tank(s), I think our measurements of the space under the fender and ahead of the tire say that a max height of 8" and a max width of 16" will fit nicely. So the twin tanks would appear to fit, but there are questions in my mind about connections. The inlet to the tanks is on the backside of the top tank, so that would point up when then are laid down. But the drain is on the bottom of the bottom tank, so it would point essentially sideways, and therefore wouldn't drain the tank properly.

However, the single tank unit looks like it might work nicely. The whole unit is said to be L (18.7") x W/D (14.2") x H (14.75"). But the motor/pump sits beside the tank, so if that is 6" then the tank is less than 8". And, the inlet is on top with the drain on the bottom. So perhaps the inlet can go through the bed floor and simplify the connections? And the drain could have a 90 on it to minimize its vulnerability?

I don't really think you need the twin tank for filling tires.

By the time you checked the pressure, replaced the cap, moved to the next tire and removed the cap, the compressor will have refilled and shut off.

With gas law and a tank pressure of (say 125) a 17 psig rise in the tire is not a big task.

Does anyone know what the internal volume of Gary's tires is?

It would be easy to calculate how much is needed of the compressor.

[Gary Lewis]

The drains are not directly on the bottom, but a bit of an angle towards the front.

It you mounted the twin tanks at a bit of an angle the rear fender would still protect the ball valve supplied as a drain.

And remember, these are coated aluminum tanks.

Neither of mine has any evidence of rust or corrosion inside (obviously)

Jim - I hope this doesn't make you mad, but we are thinking alike.

Here's a pic I took a bit ago. And that was because I wondered if the tanks could be angled and the drain be roughly straight down. But, before making that decision I need to figure out where the inlet tube would go. Maybe when the snow melts you can measure yours?

Just called California Air. Didn't have the drawings nor the twin-tank to measure, but did measure the single tank 2010A: 6 1/2" x 18 1/2". I'd rather have the 4.5 gallons than 2 gallons, but the smaller tank would be easier to mount.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I hope this doesn't make you mad, but we are thinking alike.

Here's a pic I took a bit ago. And that was because I wondered if the tanks could be angled and the drain be roughly straight down. But, before making that decision I need to figure out where the inlet tube would go. Maybe when the snow melts you can measure yours?

Just called California Air. Didn't have the drawings nor the twin-tank to measure, but did measure the single tank 2010A: 6 1/2" x 18 1/2". I'd rather have the 4.5 gallons than 2 gallons, but the smaller tank would be easier to mount.

I guess my measurements were a tad optimistic?

At any rate I think the dual tank would fit.

I will note the angle of the bleeder when I get back up to that job.

Do note that not having them vertical will mean the top tank won't drain all the way.

But given the neglect I've offered mine I don't see a problem in your use case.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I guess my measurements were a tad optimistic?

At any rate I think the dual tank would fit.

I will note the angle of the bleeder when I get back up to that job.

Do note that not having them vertical will mean the top tank won't drain all the way.

But given the neglect I've offered mine I don't see a problem in your use case.

I, too, think the dual tank will fit. And while the top tank won't drain when sitting still it should drain when driving. But if you can get more measurements LATER it would help. LATER!

As for what I did today, I got the bracketry installed on the front of the engine. But, the installation of the alternator brackets wasn't w/o a bit of a problem. When I put the curved bracket on I noticed that it didn't sit down flush with the water pump. And when I swung the alternator into place it hit the bracket because the bracket was angling toward the rear of the engine. A bit of sleuthing determined why - the water pump hadn't been machined far enough for the bracket to go flush against it. You can see the issue here:

In this pic you can see my pencil mark where the red arrow is pointing, and that's what I trimmed that boss back to, and then the bracket fit perfectly.

And here's what it looks like. Jim, do you recognize the alternator? Thanks again.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the brackets and fasteners blasted and powder coated. We shall see.

 

[Nothing Special]

I, too, think the dual tank will fit. And while the top tank won't drain when sitting still it should drain when driving. But if you can get more measurements LATER it would help. LATER!

As for what I did today, I got the bracketry installed on the front of the engine. But, the installation of the alternator brackets wasn't w/o a bit of a problem. When I put the curved bracket on I noticed that it didn't sit down flush with the water pump. And when I swung the alternator into place it hit the bracket because the bracket was angling toward the rear of the engine. A bit of sleuthing determined why - the water pump hadn't been machined far enough for the bracket to go flush against it. You can see the issue here:

In this pic you can see my pencil mark where the red arrow is pointing, and that's what I trimmed that boss back to, and then the bracket fit perfectly.

And here's what it looks like. Jim, do you recognize the alternator? Thanks again.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the brackets and fasteners blasted and powder coated. We shall see.

This is sort of peripherally related to on-board air, because the main reason to have the compressor is so you can air up after you air down. But that means that at some point you need to air down. So get some of these! If that link works it's to an Amazon ad for tire deflators. Staun is the first brand I'd heard of and I've only heard good things. I got Coyote because they were less expensive and I'd heard good reports on them. And there are other lower priced options in this ad, but I don't know anything about them.

It's a little bit putzy to set deflators originally, and the different brands have different ranges (I like the 4 - 56 psi range of the Coyotes). But once they are set you just put them on in place of the valve cap. For me, about the time I finish putting the 4th one on the 1st is done and I can start putting the caps back on. It's a lot faster than letting the air out one by one, and as I've gotten older I was "enjoying" squatting down by each tire less and less.

I aired down each tire one at a time for about 20 years. After one trip with the deflators I can't believe I didn't get them earlier. So maybe you shouldn't get them until you've made at least one trip without them. That way you can more properly appreciate them when you get them!

By the way, it's so nice not needing to keep stopping to check the pressure that I bought another set for the garage. I've got one at 35 psi for Lesley's Renegade, one at 30 for my Bronco, one at 50 for the pickups front tires and one at 40 for the rears. So I can just overshoot a little and put the deflator on to get each tire set correctly.

 

[Gary Lewis]

This is sort of peripherally related to on-board air, because the main reason to have the compressor is so you can air up after you air down. But that means that at some point you need to air down. So get some of these! If that link works it's to an Amazon ad for tire deflators. Staun is the first brand I'd heard of and I've only heard good things. I got Coyote because they were less expensive and I'd heard good reports on them. And there are other lower priced options in this ad, but I don't know anything about them.

It's a little bit putzy to set deflators originally, and the different brands have different ranges (I like the 4 - 56 psi range of the Coyotes). But once they are set you just put them on in place of the valve cap. For me, about the time I finish putting the 4th one on the 1st is done and I can start putting the caps back on. It's a lot faster than letting the air out one by one, and as I've gotten older I was "enjoying" squatting down by each tire less and less.

I aired down each tire one at a time for about 20 years. After one trip with the deflators I can't believe I didn't get them earlier. So maybe you shouldn't get them until you've made at least one trip without them. That way you can more properly appreciate them when you get them!

By the way, it's so nice not needing to keep stopping to check the pressure that I bought another set for the garage. I've got one at 35 psi for Lesley's Renegade, one at 30 for my Bronco, one at 50 for the pickups front tires and one at 40 for the rears. So I can just overshoot a little and put the deflator on to get each tire set correctly.

Cool! I'd never heard of those, but at 72 my knees sure don't need to be down letting air out of tires. So I'll pass on trying it the first time.

I've passed the link on to Janey in case someone is looking for a Christmas gift for me. Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

Cool! I'd never heard of those, but at 72 my knees sure don't need to be down letting air out of tires. So I'll pass on trying it the first time.

I've passed the link on to Janey in case someone is looking for a Christmas gift for me. Thanks!

Today I got a bit of media blasting done, but not w/o difficulties. I got the brackets blasted and baked in the oven for an hour or more at 400 degrees, as shown below:

But they took a long to blast and I realized that the amount of media coming out varied with the position of the gun. So I took a look at the hose and found this. And then when I checked farther down on the hose and found another worn out spot. Off to the hardware store we went and I got a new hose.

Then when I got home and took the hose off the gun I found this:

With that done I started blasting the other parts. BOY, did the new hose make a huge difference! Maybe 10 times the amount of media. So much that the dust collector couldn't keep up 'cause it was almost plugged. Took the filter out and cleaned it and then the going was much, much faster. Got this stuff done:

Hopefully I'll get the things PC'd tomorrow. But the neighbor wants help installing a "bed bar" and some KC lights on his Jimmy. So we will see how much I can get done before his parts come in.

[Gary Lewis]

Today I got a bit of media blasting done, but not w/o difficulties. I got the brackets blasted and baked in the oven for an hour or more at 400 degrees, as shown below:

But they took a long to blast and I realized that the amount of media coming out varied with the position of the gun. So I took a look at the hose and found this. And then when I checked farther down on the hose and found another worn out spot. Off to the hardware store we went and I got a new hose.

Then when I got home and took the hose off the gun I found this:

With that done I started blasting the other parts. BOY, did the new hose make a huge difference! Maybe 10 times the amount of media. So much that the dust collector couldn't keep up 'cause it was almost plugged. Took the filter out and cleaned it and then the going was much, much faster. Got this stuff done:

Hopefully I'll get the things PC'd tomorrow. But the neighbor wants help installing a "bed bar" and some KC lights on his Jimmy. So we will see how much I can get done before his parts come in.

Well, this is going to be interesting. All of those parts are in the oven. But, there was a bit of a mistake along the way.

I checked the powder I had in the gun and said "Oh good, it is the Silver Lining so I can do the brackets first." But, I also noted that the amount of powder might not be enough for both brackets, so I might have to stop and add more.

So I hung the brackets, washed them with brake cleaner and dried them with the heat gun, and started applying the powder. But it sure seemed to be going on thinly and it was hard to get a good layer of it on the parts. I had a thin layer on both of them and finally decided that I needed more in the gun so stopped and added more. However, as I pulled the trigger and a whole lot more powder came out and coated the parts I realized the error of my ways - the first coat was epoxy primer, and the second coat was Silver Lining!

I went ahead and gave them a heavy coat of Silver Lining, which will hopefully overlay the epoxy when the baking is done. Here's what they looked like before baking. We shall see if this is a good idea or a disaster.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, this is going to be interesting. All of those parts are in the oven. But, there was a bit of a mistake along the way.

I checked the powder I had in the gun and said "Oh good, it is the Silver Lining so I can do the brackets first." But, I also noted that the amount of powder might not be enough for both brackets, so I might have to stop and add more.

So I hung the brackets, washed them with brake cleaner and dried them with the heat gun, and started applying the powder. But it sure seemed to be going on thinly and it was hard to get a good layer of it on the parts. I had a thin layer on both of them and finally decided that I needed more in the gun so stopped and added more. However, as I pulled the trigger and a whole lot more powder came out and coated the parts I realized the error of my ways - the first coat was epoxy primer, and the second coat was Silver Lining!

I went ahead and gave them a heavy coat of Silver Lining, which will hopefully overlay the epoxy when the baking is done. Here's what they looked like before baking. We shall see if this is a good idea or a disaster.

Success!!!! The brackets came out looking just like all of the other Silver Lining'd parts. Here's a comparison of the alternator bracket and the valve cover:

And here's the alternator bracket by itself:

Here's the AC/PS bracket:

A couple of pulleys and the other alternator bracket:

And last, the various fasteners to hold all those pieces, as well as some others, on: