Big Blue's Transformation

[grumpin]

Had some success. Here's the "finished" product, meaning how far I got today. The middle nutsert is in and I have a 3/4" spacer back there and a 2 1/2 block on the end. The thing is lined up in/out and up/down and it'll take another 2 1/2" block to hold the front.

And on the left, below, is the stud and nutsert, and on the right is the spacer and nut. When I make the real spacer I'll recess the nut so the jack is held against the spacer and not the nut.

Speaking of nuts, I'm wondering what to use to hold the jack itself on. I ordered some stainless nyloc nuts and I'm thinking that those with washers behind them are the way to go as I'll have a wrench handy to get the jack out, but wondered what y'all think. There are thumb nuts available, but I'm afraid they'd back off.

Oh yes, I also ordered some 10mm x 1.5 stainless all-thread. The "stud" you see is actually a bolt that I threaded to the end and then cut the head off. But I didn't check to start with and later discovered it was a 10.8 bolt. Man, it did NOT want to be threaded. However, it was all I had to test the thing out and the all-thread won't be here until Wednesday so I finally won the battle.

On the spacers, I'm still thinking about using acetal, but wood sure would be cheaper. Thoughts?

I like wood. I see what Jim is saying, but I think it’ll be solid if the jack base is against the bed.

What about metal “U’s” under the bolt heads, the U around the jack and the same size as the wood might give it some more stability as far as twisting if that’s a problem.

[Gary Lewis]

Wood sure is cheaper!

And it won't be exposed to any weather with that roll-up cover on there.

It does get the high-lift up out of the way.

Are t there dozens of different holders already made for these things???

I'd be a little concerned that with 28 lbs bouncing around the nut-serts are going to tear through (a LOT faster than a clutch master) and there's not a whole lot keeping the jack from twisting axially. Nor supporting the heavier weight on the foot end.

But I try to KIS 😘

And since I don't have a sprayed in liner I would probably weld up some doublers to the stake pockets with simple hooks and a 'shoe' for the base of the jack...

I'd say "Suck it and see" before I went out and spent $ on a piece of plastic.

I called Tulsa Plastics and they are checking to see if they have any scrap acetal. If they do I may go down there tomorrow, and I doubt it'll be very expensive.. Otherwise I'll start making spacers out of wood.

And yes, there are lots of holders, but I've looked at a bunch of them and haven't found one that would work for this. So I came up with this plan.

But I didn't really think about the nutserts pulling out. However, that's why I'll put a large spacer on and cinch it up tight with a nut so the load is spread and the nutsert is in tension. (If the cover's track wasn't in the way I might have slipped a plate in the stake pocket with a nut welded to it.)

As for the head bouncing around, I hope not. There will be a support right at the head, and I'll look to see if I can slip a plate between the inner and outer panels of the bed for that one to ensure it won't pull out.

And that is why I want washers and nyloc nuts to hold the jack tightly to the spacers and make sure they won't back off. I'm afraid thumb nuts could back off and let the jack do as you said - bounce around.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I called Tulsa Plastics and they are checking to see if they have any scrap acetal. If they do I may go down there tomorrow, and I doubt it'll be very expensive.. Otherwise I'll start making spacers out of wood.

And yes, there are lots of holders, but I've looked at a bunch of them and haven't found one that would work for this. So I came up with this plan.

But I didn't really think about the nutserts pulling out. However, that's why I'll put a large spacer on and cinch it up tight with a nut so the load is spread and the nutsert is in tension. (If the cover's track wasn't in the way I might have slipped a plate in the stake pocket with a nut welded to it.)

As for the head bouncing around, I hope not. There will be a support right at the head, and I'll look to see if I can slip a plate between the inner and outer panels of the bed for that one to ensure it won't pull out.

And that is why I want washers and nyloc nuts to hold the jack tightly to the spacers and make sure they won't back off. I'm afraid thumb nuts could back off and let the jack do as you said - bounce around.

I would have put a strap inside the stake pocket before I set the nut-sert.

Tension is doing you no favors if it's just the upset (rivet) part of the insert gripping sheet metal.

But, what's the worst that can happen? It pulls through or tears the stake pocket???

Really the worst that could happen is it does fail and is flailing around in there on a trail for some time.

Then you'd have to fix it by actually welding a stud to a strap, and welding that to the pocket in the bed.

I'm not feeling the locknut idea.

If I NEED a jack I don't want to be screwing around trying to get it free.

Have you considered welding some lifting points to the truck so you can actually use that thing easily?

[Gary Lewis]

I like wood. I see what Jim is saying, but I think it’ll be solid if the jack base is against the bed.

What about metal “U’s” under the bolt heads, the U around the jack and the same size as the wood might give it some more stability as far as twisting if that’s a problem.

Dane - I'm not sure I understand. First the head itself won't be held to the bed. Instead the rack will be secured to the bed and the head is latched to the rack - and very tightly I might add.

But tell me more about the "U's"?

And here's a sketch of my plan. You can see that the nut on the spacer is recess, which means the jack won't touch it and will only touch the spacer.

[grumpin]

Dane - I'm not sure I understand. First the head itself won't be held to the bed. Instead the rack will be secured to the bed and the head is latched to the rack - and very tightly I might add.

But tell me more about the "U's"?

And here's a sketch of my plan. You can see that the nut on the spacer is recess, which means the jack won't touch it and will only touch the spacer.

I see. Forget the U’s, that looks good and makes more sense.

[Gary Lewis]

I would have put a strap inside the stake pocket before I set the nut-sert.

Tension is doing you no favors if it's just the upset (rivet) part of the insert gripping sheet metal.

But, what's the worst that can happen? It pulls through or tears the stake pocket???

Really the worst that could happen is it does fail and is flailing around in there on a trail for some time.

Then you'd have to fix it by actually welding a stud to a strap, and welding that to the pocket in the bed.

I'm not feeling the locknut idea.

If I NEED a jack I don't want to be screwing around trying to get it free.

Have you considered welding some lifting points to the truck so you can actually use that thing easily?

I agree that a backing plate would have been a good idea. Wish I'd done that on that center one.

But I still can on the end ones, and the one at the head of the jack is the one that will carry the most load. So instead of a nutsert I could weld a nut to the plate - assuming I can get it up there, and I think I can.

However I doubt we'd fix the mount on the trail if it were to break loose. Instead I'd put it back on top of the spare tire or put it under something in the bed until we get home.

As for the nuts, I thought of something like the ones below. Yes, they are actually lifting points, but they would work as large wing nuts. But most wing nuts are too big to get down into the recesses of the rack. However, the one at the head is recessed to the point I don't think even these will work.

Do you have better ideas?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree that a backing plate would have been a good idea. Wish I'd done that on that center one.

But I still can on the end ones, and the one at the head of the jack is the one that will carry the most load. So instead of a nutsert I could weld a nut to the plate - assuming I can get it up there, and I think I can.

However I doubt we'd fix the mount on the trail if it were to break loose. Instead I'd put it back on top of the spare tire or put it under something in the bed until we get home.

As for the nuts, I thought of something like the ones below. Yes, they are actually lifting points, but they would work as large wing nuts. But most wing nuts are too big to get down into the recesses of the rack. However, the one at the head is recessed to the point I don't think even these will work.

Do you have better ideas?

They do offer ring nuts with more of a D shape. (Like a thimble used when making an eyelet in line or cable)

If you look at the actual Hi Lift page they have something similar.

My ideas are not elaborate, or asthetic.

And obviously I'm no engineer 😅

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree that a backing plate would have been a good idea. Wish I'd done that on that center one.

But I still can on the end ones, and the one at the head of the jack is the one that will carry the most load. So instead of a nutsert I could weld a nut to the plate - assuming I can get it up there, and I think I can.

However I doubt we'd fix the mount on the trail if it were to break loose. Instead I'd put it back on top of the spare tire or put it under something in the bed until we get home.

As for the nuts, I thought of something like the ones below. Yes, they are actually lifting points, but they would work as large wing nuts. But most wing nuts are too big to get down into the recesses of the rack. However, the one at the head is recessed to the point I don't think even these will work.

Do you have better ideas?

Some styles have more of a raised boss than you show....

https://www.e-rigging.com/Eye-Nuts_c_3773.html

[Gary Lewis]

Some styles have more of a raised boss than you show....

https://www.e-rigging.com/Eye-Nuts_c_3773.html

Thanks, Jim.

Yes, Hi-Lift does show some neat nuts on their website, like the ones shown below. I'll call tomorrow and see what thread size/pitch they come in. But I'm using 10mm x 1.50 so that limits it a bit.

Tomorrow I'll spend some time seeing what will actually fit.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree that a backing plate would have been a good idea. Wish I'd done that on that center one. But I still can on the end ones.

However I doubt we'd fix the mount on the trail if it were to break loose. Instead I'd put it back on top of the spare tire or put it under something in the bed until we get home.

I didn't address these points.

A) you could always drill out the center one already installed.

B) I meant to say if* the jack does come free at one or more points, it's going to become a flail and will definitely tear up the remaining stake pockets.

Perhaps before you (or your son) can stop to address the noise.

Not that you wouldn't safely stow it for the remainder of the trip.

Why not weld up the swing away gate and eliminate all this messing about?

You can have almost any shape cut online or import the CAD to a local steel supplier or welding shop with laser or CNC water jet/plasma cutter.

Do you have a Bigfoot (jacking pad for soft ground or sand) for your jack?