85lebaront2 Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 I do not have one of the side deflectors, but this is roughly where they go. I had to trim the width (front to back) so they fit behind the grille properly. Here is the bottom side, again some trimming was needed around the oil cooler lines. The part inside of the bumper has a flange (all molded rubber) that goes up against the back side of the bumper. These are taken through the grille as I didn't feel like taking it out today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 22, 2022 Author Share Posted July 22, 2022 These are taken through the grille as I didn't feel like taking it out today. Thanks, Bill. Basically they fill in to close everything off. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Thanks, Bill. Basically they fill in to close everything off. Right? Basically splits the grille into three sections, left is where the air cleaner inlet is, center is the radiator, AC condenser, auxiliary transmission cooler and engine oil cooler, right is nothing really, it is where the old air cleaner hose went and the 1990 radiator support still had it since it is the 1987 style. Between that and closing the bottom of the radiator support to the bumper it is a lot harder for the hot air from the radiator to come back around and up into it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 Basically splits the grille into three sections, left is where the air cleaner inlet is, center is the radiator, AC condenser, auxiliary transmission cooler and engine oil cooler, right is nothing really, it is where the old air cleaner hose went and the 1990 radiator support still had it since it is the 1987 style. Between that and closing the bottom of the radiator support to the bumper it is a lot harder for the hot air from the radiator to come back around and up into it again. Thanks. I'll take a look and see what I might be able to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 Thanks. I'll take a look and see what I might be able to do. Well, thanks to both Bill and David. Bill took the time to take the pics and David searched for the "air dams" shown below on the left. But the picture on the right may show why it is a lost cause to try to seal things up. Bill mentioned that he sealed the gap to the bumper so the air couldn't come out there. But yesterday when I was helping the young man bring the Honda back I glanced at that gap and realized that it is so huge that it may be a lost cause. So I think I'm going to be happy with what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 Well, thanks to both Bill and David. Bill took the time to take the pics and David searched for the "air dams" shown below on the left. But the picture on the right may show why it is a lost cause to try to seal things up. Bill mentioned that he sealed the gap to the bumper so the air couldn't come out there. But yesterday when I was helping the young man bring the Honda back I glanced at that gap and realized that it is so huge that it may be a lost cause. So I think I'm going to be happy with what I have. Well, on a positive note I've been playing with the idea of mounting the Hi-Lift jack on the side of the bed and I think I have it worked out. Here are my notes so I can get back to them: Mounts: One on the stake pocket above the wheel well, and one in the rear centered 17 1/2" forward of the rear stake pocket's forward edge. The one for the front will be ~8" back of the back edge of the cover's canister, but may only be able to contact the beam in the center. Vertical Position: Top edge of jack's beam is 4 1/2" below the inside edge of the bed's top, and it is paralleling the bottom of the rib that runs along the side of the bed. Horizontal Position: Inside edge of the top flange of the beam is 1/2" off the center stake pocket. But in the pic below the rear is 1 1/2" and the front is 2" from the beside, so I'll need to figure out exactly how thick the front and rear mounts need to be to have it parallel to the bed by using the straightedge. I think I'll try making some test mounts out of wood to see if it'll work. But in the pic below the yellow arrows so the position of the mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Well, on a positive note I've been playing with the idea of mounting the Hi-Lift jack on the side of the bed and I think I have it worked out. Here are my notes so I can get back to them: Mounts: One on the stake pocket above the wheel well, and one in the rear centered 17 1/2" forward of the rear stake pocket's forward edge. The one for the front will be ~8" back of the back edge of the cover's canister, but may only be able to contact the beam in the center. Vertical Position: Top edge of jack's beam is 4 1/2" below the inside edge of the bed's top, and it is paralleling the bottom of the rib that runs along the side of the bed. Horizontal Position: Inside edge of the top flange of the beam is 1/2" off the center stake pocket. But in the pic below the rear is 1 1/2" and the front is 2" from the beside, so I'll need to figure out exactly how thick the front and rear mounts need to be to have it parallel to the bed by using the straightedge. I think I'll try making some test mounts out of wood to see if it'll work. But in the pic below the yellow arrows so the position of the mounts. Well done Gary! It's a cunning plan. I'm interested to see how you finalize it. Perhaps you've mentioned, but how much does that jack weigh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 Well done Gary! It's a cunning plan. I'm interested to see how you finalize it. Perhaps you've mentioned, but how much does that jack weigh? Thanks! I'm just about to drill the first nutsert hole and I'm a bit nervous. The jack weighs 28.16 lbs according to the Hi-Lift website, so there will be some force on the mounts. But my plan is to put the mount in tension with a nut on the stud on the outside of the mount, and then the stud will protrude to catch the jack. That should help to overcome the weight, and using the stake pocket helps given its curve fore/aft of where the 3/8" nutsert will be, so it is stiffer than the bedsides themselves. Speaking of the stake pocket, I marked where I thought I wanted the nutsert and it was down where the pocket starts to curve. So I moved it up 3/4" so the spacer/mount will be on the straight part. But that gets the jack really close to the cover's mount, so I may need to space it out a bit more than the 1/2" I'd planned. We shall see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 Thanks! I'm just about to drill the first nutsert hole and I'm a bit nervous. The jack weighs 28.16 lbs according to the Hi-Lift website, so there will be some force on the mounts. But my plan is to put the mount in tension with a nut on the stud on the outside of the mount, and then the stud will protrude to catch the jack. That should help to overcome the weight, and using the stake pocket helps given its curve fore/aft of where the 3/8" nutsert will be, so it is stiffer than the bedsides themselves. Speaking of the stake pocket, I marked where I thought I wanted the nutsert and it was down where the pocket starts to curve. So I moved it up 3/4" so the spacer/mount will be on the straight part. But that gets the jack really close to the cover's mount, so I may need to space it out a bit more than the 1/2" I'd planned. We shall see... Had some success. Here's the "finished" product, meaning how far I got today. The middle nutsert is in and I have a 3/4" spacer back there and a 2 1/2 block on the end. The thing is lined up in/out and up/down and it'll take another 2 1/2" block to hold the front. And on the left, below, is the stud and nutsert, and on the right is the spacer and nut. When I make the real spacer I'll recess the nut so the jack is held against the spacer and not the nut. Speaking of nuts, I'm wondering what to use to hold the jack itself on. I ordered some stainless nyloc nuts and I'm thinking that those with washers behind them are the way to go as I'll have a wrench handy to get the jack out, but wondered what y'all think. There are thumb nuts available, but I'm afraid they'd back off. Oh yes, I also ordered some 10mm x 1.5 stainless all-thread. The "stud" you see is actually a bolt that I threaded to the end and then cut the head off. But I didn't check to start with and later discovered it was a 10.8 bolt. Man, it did NOT want to be threaded. However, it was all I had to test the thing out and the all-thread won't be here until Wednesday so I finally won the battle. On the spacers, I'm still thinking about using acetal, but wood sure would be cheaper. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Had some success. Here's the "finished" product, meaning how far I got today. The middle nutsert is in and I have a 3/4" spacer back there and a 2 1/2 block on the end. The thing is lined up in/out and up/down and it'll take another 2 1/2" block to hold the front. And on the left, below, is the stud and nutsert, and on the right is the spacer and nut. When I make the real spacer I'll recess the nut so the jack is held against the spacer and not the nut. Speaking of nuts, I'm wondering what to use to hold the jack itself on. I ordered some stainless nyloc nuts and I'm thinking that those with washers behind them are the way to go as I'll have a wrench handy to get the jack out, but wondered what y'all think. There are thumb nuts available, but I'm afraid they'd back off. Oh yes, I also ordered some 10mm x 1.5 stainless all-thread. The "stud" you see is actually a bolt that I threaded to the end and then cut the head off. But I didn't check to start with and later discovered it was a 10.8 bolt. Man, it did NOT want to be threaded. However, it was all I had to test the thing out and the all-thread won't be here until Wednesday so I finally won the battle. On the spacers, I'm still thinking about using acetal, but wood sure would be cheaper. Thoughts? Wood sure is cheaper! And it won't be exposed to any weather with that roll-up cover on there. It does get the high-lift up out of the way. Are t there dozens of different holders already made for these things??? I'd be a little concerned that with 28 lbs bouncing around the nut-serts are going to tear through (a LOT faster than a clutch master) and there's not a whole lot keeping the jack from twisting axially. Nor supporting the heavier weight on the foot end. But I try to KIS 😘 And since I don't have a sprayed in liner I would probably weld up some doublers to the stake pockets with simple hooks and a 'shoe' for the base of the jack... I'd say "Suck it and see" before I went out and spent $ on a piece of plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts