ArdWrknTrk Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 I hope to do so, but won't have it done for the trip in October. I've checked and there's no way to get even a skinny spare on top of the current one and still close the cover. So w/o the fancy bumper the only way to have two spares would be to put the spare tire carrier back on and put it under the rear end. I'm thinking we'll go with one spare for this trip, but will discuss that with my son. I wasn't questioning if there was room in the bed for two tires. I just know that you had been discussing and designing the "gate" for a long time and that it would free up a lot of room in the bed if the jack and spare were relocated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 I wasn't questioning if there was room in the bed for two tires. I just know that you had been discussing and designing the "gate" for a long time and that it would free up a lot of room in the bed if the jack and spare were relocated. Actually, some place I'd suggested I might get the skinny spare on top of the other and still get the cover closed. So I thought I'd answer that implied question - it won't work. But you are right, it would free up a LOT of space in the bed if I had the bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 Actually, some place I'd suggested I might get the skinny spare on top of the other and still get the cover closed. So I thought I'd answer that implied question - it won't work. But you are right, it would free up a LOT of space in the bed if I had the bumper. Spent the day making the spacers for the driver's seat. I have them in but more needs to be done. One issue is that they don't quite line up as the outside one snaps into the last notch but the inside one doesn't. I think I can fix that by loosening the bolts that go into the base and repositioning things. But overall I think it is going to work. The farthest back position seems to be about where the bench seat was and it feels better to me. But in spite of figuring out where the headrest hit the window and moving the seat forward 1/2" the headrest still touches the window when I lean against the seatback. And that is with the seatback in the most-vertical position. But it doesn't push hard, and that's the angle I like the seatback, so I think it'll work. Here's a shot of the spacers, and the bottom one is actually the outside one and is the best of the two. The top/inside one is milled out so it can be put on either way - right or wrong. Don't ask. And here they are bolted onto the seat and then the tracks bolted to them: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 Spent the day making the spacers for the driver's seat. I have them in but more needs to be done. One issue is that they don't quite line up as the outside one snaps into the last notch but the inside one doesn't. I think I can fix that by loosening the bolts that go into the base and repositioning things. But overall I think it is going to work. The farthest back position seems to be about where the bench seat was and it feels better to me. But in spite of figuring out where the headrest hit the window and moving the seat forward 1/2" the headrest still touches the window when I lean against the seatback. And that is with the seatback in the most-vertical position. But it doesn't push hard, and that's the angle I like the seatback, so I think it'll work. Here's a shot of the spacers, and the bottom one is actually the outside one and is the best of the two. The top/inside one is milled out so it can be put on either way - right or wrong. Don't ask. And here they are bolted onto the seat and then the tracks bolted to them: Did you booboo, Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 Did you booboo, Gary! Yes, I did. I had the spacer turned the wrong way 'round and then milled it to clear the mechanism. But when I tried to install it I realized the error of my ways. Fortunately it just took a bit more milling, and as that part of the spacer has no load on it there isn't a problem. But still... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 Yes, I did. I had the spacer turned the wrong way 'round and then milled it to clear the mechanism. But when I tried to install it I realized the error of my ways. Fortunately it just took a bit more milling, and as that part of the spacer has no load on it there isn't a problem. But still... I got the seat spacers done and installed. Here's a shot of them after trimming and powder coating. Note the button-headed cap screws in the center - more of which later. And here's how the seat fits. Neither the back nor the bottom are leaned back as much as the passenger's seat is. It feels good and gives more room than it did before. And, it goes back all the way and locks into the last notch on the rails. Ok, remember the statement about the button-headed cap screws? Turns out that they were just exactly what was needed to allow the seat to go back to the last notch. In the pic on the left, below, you can see where I used them, and you can see the track almost up to it that the roller makes. In the pic on the right, which is looking into the rail, you can see that fastener and above it a part of the carrier assembly for the roller - and you can see the roller in the background. With a hex-headed bolt the carrier goes over the head but the roller hits the head and stops short of the last notch. With a regular socket-headed cap screw the carrier hits the head and stops. But with these screws nothing hits and the rails go back to the last notch and stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 I got the seat spacers done and installed. Here's a shot of them after trimming and powder coating. Note the button-headed cap screws in the center - more of which later. And here's how the seat fits. Neither the back nor the bottom are leaned back as much as the passenger's seat is. It feels good and gives more room than it did before. And, it goes back all the way and locks into the last notch on the rails. Ok, remember the statement about the button-headed cap screws? Turns out that they were just exactly what was needed to allow the seat to go back to the last notch. In the pic on the left, below, you can see where I used them, and you can see the track almost up to it that the roller makes. In the pic on the right, which is looking into the rail, you can see that fastener and above it a part of the carrier assembly for the roller - and you can see the roller in the background. With a hex-headed bolt the carrier goes over the head but the roller hits the head and stops short of the last notch. With a regular socket-headed cap screw the carrier hits the head and stops. But with these screws nothing hits and the rails go back to the last notch and stop. Looks good, Gary! Seat covers coming? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 I got the seat spacers done and installed. Here's a shot of them after trimming and powder coating. Note the button-headed cap screws in the center - more of which later. And here's how the seat fits. Neither the back nor the bottom are leaned back as much as the passenger's seat is. It feels good and gives more room than it did before. And, it goes back all the way and locks into the last notch on the rails. Ok, remember the statement about the button-headed cap screws? Turns out that they were just exactly what was needed to allow the seat to go back to the last notch. In the pic on the left, below, you can see where I used them, and you can see the track almost up to it that the roller makes. In the pic on the right, which is looking into the rail, you can see that fastener and above it a part of the carrier assembly for the roller - and you can see the roller in the background. With a hex-headed bolt the carrier goes over the head but the roller hits the head and stops short of the last notch. With a regular socket-headed cap screw the carrier hits the head and stops. But with these screws nothing hits and the rails go back to the last notch and stop. That water head screw is just what the doctor ordered! The seats and console look good in your truck Gary. It's nice you've found some way around the headrests getting buried in the rear window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 That water head screw is just what the doctor ordered! The seats and console look good in your truck Gary. It's nice you've found some way around the headrests getting buried in the rear window. Water head? Is that what it is called? Yes, it was the perfect solution. Thanks, I like the seats and the console. They really make the truck better for long trips. Not only are the seats very comfortable, but the console is so functional. I'd like to move it back a bit, but not right now. Maybe when I make the new base as then it'll be easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Water head? Is that what it is called? Yes, it was the perfect solution. Thanks, I like the seats and the console. They really make the truck better for long trips. Not only are the seats very comfortable, but the console is so functional. I'd like to move it back a bit, but not right now. Maybe when I make the new base as then it'll be easy. Ahhh, my phone likes to speak for me. Washer, or wafer head screw..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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