Big Blue's Transformation

[Pete Whitstone]

Sounds good! Sort of like I did with my E4OD settings. I set the converter clutch unlock high enough in throttle % that if the converter unlocks it is followed almost immediately by a downshift.

Bill, whose E4OD controller are you using?

[Pete Whitstone]

Sounds good! Sort of like I did with my E4OD settings. I set the converter clutch unlock high enough in throttle % that if the converter unlocks it is followed almost immediately by a downshift.

Bill, whose E4OD controller are you using?

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds good! Sort of like I did with my E4OD settings. I set the converter clutch unlock high enough in throttle % that if the converter unlocks it is followed almost immediately by a downshift.

Bill, whose E4OD controller are you using?

I know the question was to Bill, but I will jump in here.

Bill is using the EEC-V ECU that runs the EFI system on his truck to control the E4OD. And he, like I, uses Binary Editor software to change the parameters in the ECU.

The screen grab on the left below shows the headings for all of the parameters available. And the one on the right shows the ones for the torque converter within the Trans section since your question sprang from a mention of the torque converter.

[Pete Whitstone]

I know the question was to Bill, but I will jump in here.

Bill is using the EEC-V ECU that runs the EFI system on his truck to control the E4OD. And he, like I, uses Binary Editor software to change the parameters in the ECU.

The screen grab on the left below shows the headings for all of the parameters available. And the one on the right shows the ones for the torque converter within the Trans section since your question sprang from a mention of the torque converter.

Thanks Gary. I didn't realize any Ford EEC stuff was modifiable to this level.

I was hoping Bill's answer was going to be "US Shift/Quick 2 controller". That's what I'm using on my E4OD, and while I currently have it working to my liking and mostly understand what I have played with in there, I was hoping to have a more experienced person I could ask questions to.

I guess that the principles involved still transfer directly across, even if the user interface is not the same though.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary. I didn't realize any Ford EEC stuff was modifiable to this level.

I was hoping Bill's answer was going to be "US Shift/Quick 2 controller". That's what I'm using on my E4OD, and while I currently have it working to my liking and mostly understand what I have played with in there, I was hoping to have a more experienced person I could ask questions to.

I guess that the principles involved still transfer directly across, even if the user interface is not the same though.

Sorry Pete, I have no idea how to program your controller. In fact, I'm just learning Binary Editor and am gob smacked with all of the parameters there are for EVERYTHING on this EEC-V. Not just the transmission. The EFI system has even more parameters.

As for Big Blue, there are two things to report. First, he has an appointment at the exhaust shop at 10 in the morning. Hopefully then tomorrow afternoon I can get the wide-band going.

On the other hand, it looks to me like my fairly-new Champion radiator has a leak in it. I've been chasing a leak for quite some time, and have gone over the system with a fine-toothed comb. All the clamps are tight, but I keep getting a few drops on the floor. Heretofore I've not seen anything on the radiator itself, but as shown below I am now. The bottom rows are wet all the way across.

Does it seem likely that it is the radiator? Can any of you think of what else it might be? I want to be pretty certain before I pull it.

[85lebaront2]

Sounds good! Sort of like I did with my E4OD settings. I set the converter clutch unlock high enough in throttle % that if the converter unlocks it is followed almost immediately by a downshift.

Bill, whose E4OD controller are you using?

As Gary said, it is all done in the EEC even back to the EEC-IV systems. To do the changes on an EEC-IV, you need a piggyback tuner, like a Moates Quarterhorse or a TwEECer, there may be others. Since the EEC-V had to meet the federal government mandate specifying reprogramming in the field (much better than having to issue a new computer for updates) it was only a matter of time before they got "hacked" by people who desired changes from the factory settings.

One of the issues with the E4OD is the amount of heat the torque converter generates when unlocked. It is a fairly high stall unit, which is what Packard did with their Ultramatic Drive in the 50s. Converter is set up for good torque multiplication, and the lockup eliminates the slip. Mine is set for 85% throttle to unlock, I have a 460 which is, even in the eviscerated emission versions, still a torque monster. I let the engine torque do the job.

Example, Darth pulling a probably 8K loaded trailer with probably 12-1500 lbs in the bed, coming uphill in the Bay Bridge Tunnel tunnels, 54 mph in OD, downshifted to 3, rpm went to 2700 then as the converter locked, dropped to 2200, so 500 rpm was being turned into heat.

[Gary Lewis]

As Gary said, it is all done in the EEC even back to the EEC-IV systems. To do the changes on an EEC-IV, you need a piggyback tuner, like a Moates Quarterhorse or a TwEECer, there may be others. Since the EEC-V had to meet the federal government mandate specifying reprogramming in the field (much better than having to issue a new computer for updates) it was only a matter of time before they got "hacked" by people who desired changes from the factory settings.

One of the issues with the E4OD is the amount of heat the torque converter generates when unlocked. It is a fairly high stall unit, which is what Packard did with their Ultramatic Drive in the 50s. Converter is set up for good torque multiplication, and the lockup eliminates the slip. Mine is set for 85% throttle to unlock, I have a 460 which is, even in the eviscerated emission versions, still a torque monster. I let the engine torque do the job.

Example, Darth pulling a probably 8K loaded trailer with probably 12-1500 lbs in the bed, coming uphill in the Bay Bridge Tunnel tunnels, 54 mph in OD, downshifted to 3, rpm went to 2700 then as the converter locked, dropped to 2200, so 500 rpm was being turned into heat.

Here's Friday's update.

First, I took the truck to the exhaust shop and Scotty put two new bungs in - one for the factory driver's side O2 sensor and one for the wide-band.

And, on the trip I played more with the speed control. Man, this thing is great! Not only is it smooooth, but hitting Set/Accelerate while already at speed raises the set point 1.00 MPH. Yep, while running 45 MPH on the GPS I punched the button 10 times. Pretty soon I was running 55 on the GPS and the acceleration was nice and smooth. Then I punched Coast 20 times and I was soon running 35 MPH.

Next up was the coolant leak. I contacted Amazon and they contacted the seller, Stay Cool. Their response was that they'll ship me a new one!

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I made a couple more "programming" changes to Big Blue's "Dashpot Maximum Based off Vehicle Speed". I'd had it at .1 at 0 MPH and then .2 at anything over 0. But I wanted lower so I set it to 0 at all speeds, inc 0 MPH. However, as expected, that didn't allow it to control the idle when stopped. So I set it to .1 @ 0 MPH and then 0 anytime the truck is rolling. That seemed to work quite nicely on my test drive.

On the chart below the yellow trace is RPM and the Y scale is for it. The green trace is MPH and the run starts at 5 MPH in 2nd gear and goes to 65 MPH in 5th gear. You can see that the RPM comes down linearly on my shifts, meaning there's no dashpot function which would have a curve to it.

Given that, I think I'm there on the dashpot function! Tomorrow maybe I can get the wide-band hooked up and do some datalogging with it so I can get the fuel properly adjusted - although it sure is running GOOD!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here's Friday's update.

First, I took the truck to the exhaust shop and Scotty put two new bungs in - one for the factory driver's side O2 sensor and one for the wide-band.

And, on the trip I played more with the speed control. Man, this thing is great! Not only is it smooooth, but hitting Set/Accelerate while already at speed raises the set point 1.00 MPH. Yep, while running 45 MPH on the GPS I punched the button 10 times. Pretty soon I was running 55 on the GPS and the acceleration was nice and smooth. Then I punched Coast 20 times and I was soon running 35 MPH.

Next up was the coolant leak. I contacted Amazon and they contacted the seller, Stay Cool. Their response was that they'll ship me a new one!

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I made a couple more "programming" changes to Big Blue's "Dashpot Maximum Based off Vehicle Speed". I'd had it at .1 at 0 MPH and then .2 at anything over 0. But I wanted lower so I set it to 0 at all speeds, inc 0 MPH. However, as expected, that didn't allow it to control the idle when stopped. So I set it to .1 @ 0 MPH and then 0 anytime the truck is rolling. That seemed to work quite nicely on my test drive.

On the chart below the yellow trace is RPM and the Y scale is for it. The green trace is MPH and the run starts at 5 MPH in 2nd gear and goes to 65 MPH in 5th gear. You can see that the RPM comes down linearly on my shifts, meaning there's no dashpot function which would have a curve to it.

Given that, I think I'm there on the dashpot function! Tomorrow maybe I can get the wide-band hooked up and do some datalogging with it so I can get the fuel properly adjusted - although it sure is running GOOD!

All good news Gary!

I certainly hope the new aluminum radiator last longer (or you find some obvious flaw on closer inspection)

What more do you hope to get from your scheduled dyno session?

Other than the lesson and experience of being able to watch a pro at work.

It will be enlightening for all of to see the numbers.

[Gary Lewis]

All good news Gary!

I certainly hope the new aluminum radiator last longer (or you find some obvious flaw on closer inspection)

What more do you hope to get from your scheduled dyno session?

Other than the lesson and experience of being able to watch a pro at work.

It will be enlightening for all of to see the numbers.

Thanks, Jim. I, too, hope this radiator lasts far, far longer.

As for the session on the dyno, it actually isn't scheduled. In fact, the other day when I pushed Ben to schedule it he said I don't need it - unless I just want to pay him. Instead he said that if I adjust the AFR with the results of the wide-band that he will work with me to get the last bits sorted out, including the timing table.

Ben said he's done enough big-blocks that he knows very closely what timing the engine needs. So there's not much need to dyno it.

However, I've not given up on the dyno session. I'm not convinced I'm going to get all of the issues resolved myself, so it may take the pro to do so. (And, I'd kinda like to see the dyno numbers. )

But this sure is a different engine with the EFI on it. The combination of the large lower plenum and a carb wasn't a good one. As said, it wouldn't pull below 1200 R's, and now it'll pull from idle. Makes gear selection a whole different story and 2nd gear starts easy.

[85lebaront2]

Here's Friday's update.

First, I took the truck to the exhaust shop and Scotty put two new bungs in - one for the factory driver's side O2 sensor and one for the wide-band.

And, on the trip I played more with the speed control. Man, this thing is great! Not only is it smooooth, but hitting Set/Accelerate while already at speed raises the set point 1.00 MPH. Yep, while running 45 MPH on the GPS I punched the button 10 times. Pretty soon I was running 55 on the GPS and the acceleration was nice and smooth. Then I punched Coast 20 times and I was soon running 35 MPH.

Next up was the coolant leak. I contacted Amazon and they contacted the seller, Stay Cool. Their response was that they'll ship me a new one!

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I made a couple more "programming" changes to Big Blue's "Dashpot Maximum Based off Vehicle Speed". I'd had it at .1 at 0 MPH and then .2 at anything over 0. But I wanted lower so I set it to 0 at all speeds, inc 0 MPH. However, as expected, that didn't allow it to control the idle when stopped. So I set it to .1 @ 0 MPH and then 0 anytime the truck is rolling. That seemed to work quite nicely on my test drive.

On the chart below the yellow trace is RPM and the Y scale is for it. The green trace is MPH and the run starts at 5 MPH in 2nd gear and goes to 65 MPH in 5th gear. You can see that the RPM comes down linearly on my shifts, meaning there's no dashpot function which would have a curve to it.

Given that, I think I'm there on the dashpot function! Tomorrow maybe I can get the wide-band hooked up and do some datalogging with it so I can get the fuel properly adjusted - although it sure is running GOOD!

Now you understand why I went to the electronic speed control on Darth. They are much smoother and more responsive than a vacuum unit.