Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

TBH it will do something. (crank and crank, and crank)

But yeah, better to get out in front than leave it for later.

That changed by 2003 because mine won't even send a signal to the starter.

And yet, if you look at the '96 EVTM above Big Blue certainly will.

Honestly, I find analog controls much easier to repair than the [there be dragons!] modules in today's vehicles.

(not saying they're better, just easier to deal with)

[Nothing Special]

.... I also recognize that this means you can't jump the starter relay and get the truck to fire. (you need that extra set of contacts in the safety switch closed to command the pcm)

Sorry, I haven't been keeping up with all of the details here. I think Big Blue is getting a California version of the electronics so he has a MAF system instead of SD? If so, maybe that's the difference. But my (non-California) '97 F-250 460 works just fine to jump the starter relay. Turn the key to the "run" position, jump the starter relay and the engine will crank and start. If that's a difference between the MAF and SD systems, then sorry for the detour.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

.... I also recognize that this means you can't jump the starter relay and get the truck to fire. (you need that extra set of contacts in the safety switch closed to command the pcm)

Sorry, I haven't been keeping up with all of the details here. I think Big Blue is getting a California version of the electronics so he has a MAF system instead of SD? If so, maybe that's the difference. But my (non-California) '97 F-250 460 works just fine to jump the starter relay. Turn the key to the "run" position, jump the starter relay and the engine will crank and start. If that's a difference between the MAF and SD systems, then sorry for the detour.

Honestly Bob I can't say why the PCM needs to know the the clutch is depressed.

But I'm sure Ford didn't bother to add that circuit for no reason at all.

So, it does something...

[Gary Lewis]

Honestly Bob I can't say why the PCM needs to know the the clutch is depressed.

But I'm sure Ford didn't bother to add that circuit for no reason at all.

So, it does something...

Big Blue is getting the '96 CA-spec MAF/SEFI system, but from what I can tell both the SD and MAF systems have the same starter feed to the ECU. But I think the difference in yours and mine, Bob, is that you have the E4OD and I have the ZF-5. So I assume you only jumper the starter relay with it in Park and that will send the signal to the ECU via the Transmission Range Selector. In my case I'd have to have someone in the truck with the clutch disengaged to get the signal to the ECU.

And speaking of that feed, I didn't get it installed today. I got part way there as I found the right wire and pin and put it back in the ECU's connector and put a 1-pin connector on the end of that wire. And I found the clutch lockout switch and the R/LB wires going to it. I even determined which one goes to the starter relay. But it so far up in the dash that connecting to it would be very difficult.

So what I want to do is to pull the pin out of the connector to the switch and connect to it as it'll dangle down just a bit and should be accessible - just. But I haven't found the release in that connector to get the pin out. And I ran out of energy so called it quits for today. Tomorrow I'll bet I can get it out and connected to the ECU.

However, I did get the Brake On/Off bit sorted. Pin 92 of the ECU now sees ground until the brake lights come on, and the speed control sees ground until either the brake or clutch pedal is pushed in.

So there has been some progress, but the last few details are tedious. We'll get there.

[Nothing Special]

Big Blue is getting the '96 CA-spec MAF/SEFI system, but from what I can tell both the SD and MAF systems have the same starter feed to the ECU. But I think the difference in yours and mine, Bob, is that you have the E4OD and I have the ZF-5. So I assume you only jumper the starter relay with it in Park and that will send the signal to the ECU via the Transmission Range Selector. In my case I'd have to have someone in the truck with the clutch disengaged to get the signal to the ECU.

And speaking of that feed, I didn't get it installed today. I got part way there as I found the right wire and pin and put it back in the ECU's connector and put a 1-pin connector on the end of that wire. And I found the clutch lockout switch and the R/LB wires going to it. I even determined which one goes to the starter relay. But it so far up in the dash that connecting to it would be very difficult.

So what I want to do is to pull the pin out of the connector to the switch and connect to it as it'll dangle down just a bit and should be accessible - just. But I haven't found the release in that connector to get the pin out. And I ran out of energy so called it quits for today. Tomorrow I'll bet I can get it out and connected to the ECU.

However, I did get the Brake On/Off bit sorted. Pin 92 of the ECU now sees ground until the brake lights come on, and the speed control sees ground until either the brake or clutch pedal is pushed in.

So there has been some progress, but the last few details are tedious. We'll get there.

Yep, I missed that somehow. I do have an automatic and I've never tried to start it in anything other than "Park"

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, I missed that somehow. I do have an automatic and I've never tried to start it in anything other than "Park"

No prob, Bob.

Ok, today's report is that I truly believe the wiring is D.O.N.E. I got Pin 64 connected to the R/LB going to the starter relay - but only after a battle.

Turns out that the connector going to the clutch lockout switch is unlike any other I've encountered on these trucks. I finally found one on another harness and figured out how they work. In the pic below you can see the piece pivoted up, and those pins go behind the retainer pins on the terminals, so w/o pivoting them up and out of play you won't get the terminals out.

But, even when you do get them out of play there are "steps" in the connector that catch the retainer pins on the other side. So you need to slide a tool in the groove and gently pry up on the pin to get that terminal out.

Anyway, now I'm trying to figure out how I want to go about bringing this beast to life. (I'm envisioning scenes from a move that included Frau Blücher.) Here are some thoughts, but I'd welcome yours, please:

• Connect Batteries:

• Turn Key To Run: The fuel pump should run a few seconds, right?

• Check For Fuel: Depress Schrader valve to see that there's fuel in the rail. And, that there's no fuel leak at the connectors.

• Set Timing: Do this per Bill's instructions here.

• Start It: I'm going to roll it out of the shop for this, just in case. But it should start right up, I hope.

  Any need to have the laptop connected?

What am I missing?

[85lebaront2]

No prob, Bob.

Ok, today's report is that I truly believe the wiring is D.O.N.E. I got Pin 64 connected to the R/LB going to the starter relay - but only after a battle.

Turns out that the connector going to the clutch lockout switch is unlike any other I've encountered on these trucks. I finally found one on another harness and figured out how they work. In the pic below you can see the piece pivoted up, and those pins go behind the retainer pins on the terminals, so w/o pivoting them up and out of play you won't get the terminals out.

But, even when you do get them out of play there are "steps" in the connector that catch the retainer pins on the other side. So you need to slide a tool in the groove and gently pry up on the pin to get that terminal out.

Anyway, now I'm trying to figure out how I want to go about bringing this beast to life. (I'm envisioning scenes from a move that included Frau Blücher.) Here are some thoughts, but I'd welcome yours, please:

• Connect Batteries:

• Turn Key To Run: The fuel pump should run a few seconds, right?

• Check For Fuel: Depress Schrader valve to see that there's fuel in the rail. And, that there's no fuel leak at the connectors.

• Set Timing: Do this per Bill's instructions here.

• Start It: I'm going to roll it out of the shop for this, just in case. But it should start right up, I hope.

  Any need to have the laptop connected?

What am I missing?

Fire extinguisher at hand (just in case).

[Gary Lewis]

Fire extinguisher at hand (just in case).

That's a good idea, Bill. But no other advice? How long should the fuel pump run when I turn the key on?

[salans7]

That's a good idea, Bill. But no other advice? How long should the fuel pump run when I turn the key on?

Around 2-3 seconds. Depending on the fuel pump, you may or may not be able to hear it run from in the cab.

[Gary Lewis]

That's a good idea, Bill. But no other advice? How long should the fuel pump run when I turn the key on?

Around 2-3 seconds. Depending on the fuel pump, you may or may not be able to hear it run from in the cab.

Thanks, Shaun. I'll have the door open but it'll be inside the shop so will be pretty quiet and maybe I can hear it. Hoping to do that tomorrow after I put the gauges back in and add the seats.

I've already connected the battery long enough to test a couple of things. The lights and the horn work.

But I need to connect the ECU then connect the battery and turn the key. We shall see.