Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Big Blue's Transformation


Recommended Posts

Yes, the later ones apparently did have the diode. The '96 EVTM shows it, for sure. Which is why I could see that I needed it. I traced that DG/O wire right to it, looked at the '85 harness and realized it was AWOL. So I added two. :nabble_smiley_wink:

As for changing plugs, don't forget I have the topsider creeper, which will make it a whole lot easier.

But I'll see what I can do on the plug wires, thanks. But don't forget that I have several thousand miles on the engine already.

Well, I think this is another milestone - the harness is in the truck. Not everything is hooked up yet and there's a fair bit of work left to do, but this sure feels good! :nabble_smiley_happy:

Here's a shot of the wiring going through the firewall. I have yet to put the heat shield on it and then the convolute, but if fits in there nicely.

PDB_To_ECU_Wiring_Going_Through_Firewall.thumb.jpg.9162740ea9822af5e998d145515fc12e.jpg

And here's a shot of the PDB in and bolted down with most of the connections made. The cable going off to the left goes to the MAF and IAT sensors but obviously isn't connected yet as they've not been installed. Hanging on the hood hinge are the speed control and ignition module connectors, and before bolting the speed control in and connecting it up I need to make a mount for the ignition module down below it. Then there's the connector laying in the air filter box bracket at the 10:00 position. That's C110 that goes to the O2 sensors, and I have to make that cable up.

I did, however, discover a mistake as I was installing this. I had two male connectors facing each other for the VSS connections, so had to graft a female connector on. That let everything connect up nicely, although the extra length to the wiring makes a ball of snakes to the right of the PDB. :nabble_smiley_sad:

PDB__ECU_Wiring_Installed_Under_Hood.thumb.jpg.135c2903e5f5f5fbf5fa9c6092b8f754.jpg

Last, here's a pic under the dash. Several things to connect there, but that should be easy. The hardest bit will be to bend that cable to make a 90 degree turn and go up to the ECU. But I think it'll work.

ECU_Wiring_Under_Dash_-_In.thumb.jpg.b7c26334300929a5bd22fd2946780a12.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well, I think this is another milestone - the harness is in the truck. Not everything is hooked up yet and there's a fair bit of work left to do, but this sure feels good! :nabble_smiley_happy:

Here's a shot of the wiring going through the firewall. I have yet to put the heat shield on it and then the convolute, but if fits in there nicely.

And here's a shot of the PDB in and bolted down with most of the connections made. The cable going off to the left goes to the MAF and IAT sensors but obviously isn't connected yet as they've not been installed. Hanging on the hood hinge are the speed control and ignition module connectors, and before bolting the speed control in and connecting it up I need to make a mount for the ignition module down below it. Then there's the connector laying in the air filter box bracket at the 10:00 position. That's C110 that goes to the O2 sensors, and I have to make that cable up.

I did, however, discover a mistake as I was installing this. I had two male connectors facing each other for the VSS connections, so had to graft a female connector on. That let everything connect up nicely, although the extra length to the wiring makes a ball of snakes to the right of the PDB. :nabble_smiley_sad:

Last, here's a pic under the dash. Several things to connect there, but that should be easy. The hardest bit will be to bend that cable to make a 90 degree turn and go up to the ECU. But I think it'll work.

Looks good, and quite professional!

Be careful with balls of snakes, mix that with a rat's nest and you will have problems. Hopefully it will pass the smoke test, as I understand Lucas PN 530433 is on world wide back order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good, and quite professional!

Be careful with balls of snakes, mix that with a rat's nest and you will have problems. Hopefully it will pass the smoke test, as I understand Lucas PN 530433 is on world wide back order.

Thanks, Bill. But I'm not sure I appreciate the term "professional" being associated with my work. A friend of mine had is Honda Goldwing in to the Honda shop for a tuneup. The "professional" checked the valve lash and then the points gap with the same feeler gauge w/o wiping it down. So my friend and I have this running joke about "professionals".

As for the smoke, I plan to let it out in small quantities. I'll fire up systems one at a time before installing the ECU.

But I did find a number of leads on that part number, as shown below, just in case I need to replace the smoke.

Lucas_Smoke_PN.thumb.jpg.9b6e054ecb423d04fd2d532748e43616.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, would you look at that! Big Blue didn't have one and your truck did. :nabble_smiley_oh:

Why would Ford put one on the lighter trucks but not the heavier trucks? Usually when something like that happens it is due to requirements with the Feds or some state that is only applied up to 8500 pounds GVWR. But I can't imagine that ...

Oh wait! Maybe EFI wasn't an option on 8500 and above? So they didn't worry about the ECU and, therefore, didn't put a diode in the line? I would have thought that standardization was worth more than the cost of having a diode inserted, but apparently not?

As for the controls and pressure switch, Detroit had been doing A/C systems w/o diodes for at least two decades by the mid-80's, so they apparently sized the contacts to handle the back EMF. But it surely can't have been "helping" them. But by that time they'd gotten the current draw of the clutches down quite a bit so the back EMF wasn't too bad. I was pleasantly surprised that the clutch on Big Blue only draws 3.9A.

Here's a "lunchtime" report. Decided that I needed to get the underdash wiring in place as I might have to move some of the wiring out through the grommet in order to position it where I wanted it. Sure enough, I did, and that means I can now put the convolute and head shield on the wiring under the hood.

Here's the wiring in place under the dash and you can see the DTC/OBD-II connector to the right. It is just barely visible from what I think is the driver's position, and the wiring to the ECU isn't. But that wiring will be pulled up a bit when I'm sure everything is correct. And, the brake controller, which is laying under the brake pedal, attaches to the ECU's bracket so it will hide the wiring as well.

Oh yes, the DTC connector uses the existing screw that holds the cigar lighter bracket in place and a new hole and sheetmetal nut to the left. It made a very solid mount.

Underdash_ECU_Wiring_Done.thumb.jpg.1f5155dfb95723f2e32eb9a9aab575dd.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a "lunchtime" report. Decided that I needed to get the underdash wiring in place as I might have to move some of the wiring out through the grommet in order to position it where I wanted it. Sure enough, I did, and that means I can now put the convolute and head shield on the wiring under the hood.

Here's the wiring in place under the dash and you can see the DTC/OBD-II connector to the right. It is just barely visible from what I think is the driver's position, and the wiring to the ECU isn't. But that wiring will be pulled up a bit when I'm sure everything is correct. And, the brake controller, which is laying under the brake pedal, attaches to the ECU's bracket so it will hide the wiring as well.

Oh yes, the DTC connector uses the existing screw that holds the cigar lighter bracket in place and a new hole and sheetmetal nut to the left. It made a very solid mount.

And now for the afternoon report. First the Reader's Digest version:

  • Heat shield & convolute is on PDB/ECU wiring.

  • Ignition module is installed and connected

  • Speed control is connected

  • Grounds are connected

But that's too easy. Here's the "album version". (As in Light My Fire.)

No pic of the heat shield and convolute, but it is there and the wiring is well protected.

As for the ignition module, it is bolted to the fender below the speed control and the relays mounted to the firewall. And by "bolted" I mean that I installed nutserts in the fender, but things were just a bit close installing them:

Man_It_Is_TIGHT_In_There.thumb.jpg.f7ac767dd2933ff66bed5274ae762053.jpg

And then things have to be put on in just the right order. First the ICM and then the relays:

Ignition_Module__Relays_In.thumb.jpg.c92012b784b6b51eaed54fc1fc444f67.jpg

After that you can install the speed control, which shields the ignition module from radiant heat well enough that I don't think another shield is needed:

Speed_Control_-_Relays_-_Ignition_Module_In.thumb.jpg.9b5e35b8a8ee3049df41417d00cf1242.jpg

And, as I said, the grounds are connected. Here's the ones from the ECU connected to the engine ground: (Pic just for Jim. :nabble_smiley_wink:)

ECU_Grounded_To_Engine_Ground.thumb.jpg.65411551cec1974890261ca6253d214e.jpg

Man, when I do this on Dad's truck it is going to happen long before most other things are installed. That would make it sooooo much easier!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And now for the afternoon report. First the Reader's Digest version:

  • Heat shield & convolute is on PDB/ECU wiring.

  • Ignition module is installed and connected

  • Speed control is connected

  • Grounds are connected

But that's too easy. Here's the "album version". (As in Light My Fire.)

No pic of the heat shield and convolute, but it is there and the wiring is well protected.

As for the ignition module, it is bolted to the fender below the speed control and the relays mounted to the firewall. And by "bolted" I mean that I installed nutserts in the fender, but things were just a bit close installing them:

And then things have to be put on in just the right order. First the ICM and then the relays:

After that you can install the speed control, which shields the ignition module from radiant heat well enough that I don't think another shield is needed:

And, as I said, the grounds are connected. Here's the ones from the ECU connected to the engine ground: (Pic just for Jim. :nabble_smiley_wink:)

Man, when I do this on Dad's truck it is going to happen long before most other things are installed. That would make it sooooo much easier!

Where did I say "Pic's or it didn't happen"???

You've made a lot of progress.

And of course it looks good.

I can't imagine having all that stuff under my hood.

But I'm really simple, and when I need to do something I try to avoid complications.

How long do you think until Big Blue is back on the road?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did I say "Pic's or it didn't happen"???

You've made a lot of progress.

And of course it looks good.

I can't imagine having all that stuff under my hood.

But I'm really simple, and when I need to do something I try to avoid complications.

How long do you think until Big Blue is back on the road?

 

I don't think you said that. And I didn't mean to imply that you did. But you were saying I should ground the ECU to the engine ground at the firewall, so that's why I added that pic.

It is a LOT of stuff under the hood. Man, a whole lot. I didn't realize that when I started this. It really makes you think. But I hope I'll like it.

As for when it'll be back on the road, I'll say "soon". I'm hoping it'll be in April, meaning in the next two weeks. Thinking while I type, here's what I think I have to do:

  • A minor change to the power wiring to do, which is move the feed from the passenger's side to the new PDB and make a jumper to go from the PDB to the battery isolator.

  • Install the air cleaner box and hook up the MAF & IAT sensors. Should be easy as it has all been together before.

  • Install the intake air plumbing. Again, that should be quite easy as it has been on before as well.

  • Set the timing per Bill's directions.

  • Test the new power wiring to ensure that it won't smoke. I think I can do that by using the lab power supply, which only provides 1A so can't smoke anything.

That begs the question of what to do next. Do I go for broke and fire the whole thing up and see if it'll run? Or do I go through and test things that have just now been connected to the PDB/ECU wiring - which has itself been tested.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...