Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 The factory shop manual is a bit suspect in this sequence for installing the "hachet"/damper spacer and the damper: How do you apply Gasket Maker to the front of the key on the crankshaft after installing the damper spacer? And there's no "front seal rubbing surface" on the damper. Squirt it in the end of the keyway, that you can still see? Grease on the face of the spacer that contacts the damper could preclude rust, and difficult removal. Pretty damper! What exactly is that? Yes, we'd still be analyzing. The damper is a Scat SCA8008. I got it from Scotty, but that writeup at CNC Motorsports is the best I could find for it. And, as an example of analyzing, I got ready to put the 1/4 turn marks on it yesterday: Measured its diameter with the calipers; did the calculation of circumference from diameter; divided that by 4; turned the decimal result into 64's of an inch; got the flat tape I have put back that easily conforms to round things; laid it on the TDC mark and found the 1/4 turn point - with a nice factory-scribed mark under it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Yes, we'd still be analyzing. The damper is a Scat SCA8008. I got it from Scotty, but that writeup at CNC Motorsports is the best I could find for it. And, as an example of analyzing, I got ready to put the 1/4 turn marks on it yesterday: Measured its diameter with the calipers; did the calculation of circumference from diameter; divided that by 4; turned the decimal result into 64's of an inch; got the flat tape I have put back that easily conforms to round things; laid it on the TDC mark and found the 1/4 turn point - with a nice factory-scribed mark under it. I'm surprised you didn't have Scott go with a Scat stroker crank. 521 sounds like a good number to me! 😉 And you wouldn't have to deck anything. The compression would be right up there. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Yes, we'd still be analyzing. The damper is a Scat SCA8008. I got it from Scotty, but that writeup at CNC Motorsports is the best I could find for it. And, as an example of analyzing, I got ready to put the 1/4 turn marks on it yesterday: Measured its diameter with the calipers; did the calculation of circumference from diameter; divided that by 4; turned the decimal result into 64's of an inch; got the flat tape I have put back that easily conforms to round things; laid it on the TDC mark and found the 1/4 turn point - with a nice factory-scribed mark under it. Oh, I forgot. I did daub the Permatex into the end of the open keyway on the spacer after it was installed, although I'm confident that the quantity I put on the key and in the keyway before I installed it will have sealed it. And I say "daub" as the container for the Permatex was a plastic bottle with a brush on the lid. But, the lid was Permatex'd on and was NOT coming off. So I cut the neck off and used the brush for daubing. And I did lube the crank's snout with grease for the installation of the balancer. Plus, I lubed the threads of the crank bolt for the installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 I'm surprised you didn't have Scott go with a Scat stroker crank. 521 sounds like a good number to me! 😉 And you wouldn't have to deck anything. The compression would be right up there. 👍 Remember that my goal is to drive the wheels off this thing, and gas consumption is a concern. (Notice I didn't use the terms "economy" and "460" in the same sentence.) I assume that consumption is somewhat proportional to cubic inches, all else being equal. Scotty keeps assuring me that while I have a "built 400", and I've described to him what it is, I'm gonna like this 460 better. He knows how I'm going to use it and is confident that I'm not going to be wanting for more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 NASA? Not hardly. That's serious stuff. As for a Pacer, I drove one once. Rent car. Rolled in the corners like a bowling ball. No way, Jose!!! Big Blue corners better than that. Remember where my shop was, rather close to NASA Langley research center. When the Pacer came out 5 of the engineers there bought them. The things had two issues, first was heat soak and percolation of the gas in the line. The pressure would overpower the inlet needle on the Carter YF carb making hot starts damn near impossible. The second problem was with the Motorola BID ignition, the vacuum advance was a strange double paired diaphragm system, one being the advance, the other an altitude compensating chamber. The failure rate was close to 100% on these. We installed a small fuel pressure regulator in the line and replaced the advance diaphragm. They had in the best engineering practice taken a different Pacer to each of several shops, we fixed our "test vehicle" and a week later came in to 5 Pacers lined up, the test car and the other 4, we were the only shop to fix the test vehicle. AMC released a recall that involved fitting a tiny bypass line between the inlet and outlet of the fuel pump to fix the hot start problem and a note requiring checking of the vacuum advance and an improved part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Remember where my shop was, rather close to NASA Langley research center. When the Pacer came out 5 of the engineers there bought them. The things had two issues, first was heat soak and percolation of the gas in the line. The pressure would overpower the inlet needle on the Carter YF carb making hot starts damn near impossible. The second problem was with the Motorola BID ignition, the vacuum advance was a strange double paired diaphragm system, one being the advance, the other an altitude compensating chamber. The failure rate was close to 100% on these. We installed a small fuel pressure regulator in the line and replaced the advance diaphragm. They had in the best engineering practice taken a different Pacer to each of several shops, we fixed our "test vehicle" and a week later came in to 5 Pacers lined up, the test car and the other 4, we were the only shop to fix the test vehicle. AMC released a recall that involved fitting a tiny bypass line between the inlet and outlet of the fuel pump to fix the hot start problem and a note requiring checking of the vacuum advance and an improved part. Interesting, Bill. What did the engineers see in the Pacer? Anyway, guess you got them sorted. As for that I did today, I installed the rest of the push rods. And I got it down to kind of an art. I turned the bolt in using my fingers until it suddenly became harder to turn, which was when it was starting to compress the lifter and create the preload. Turn it in with a small wrench from there and count the turns. The goal is 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and a .020" shim takes about 1/4 of a turn out of the preload and a .035" shim takes out just a bit less than 1/2 of a turn. If needed, back off and put the right shim in, and go again. And here are the results: #1: Intake 1/2 turn with no shim; Exhaust 1/2 with no shim #2: Intake 3/8 turn w/a .020"; Exhaust 1/2 turn with no shim #3: Intake 1/2 turn w/a .020"; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020" #4: Intake 3/8 turn w/a .035; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020 #5: Intake 1/4 turn w/no shim; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020 #6: Intake 1/2 turn w/a .020; Exhaust 1/2 w/a .020 #7: Intake 3/8 turn w/no shim; Exhaust 1/4 w/no shim #8: Intake 1/4 turn w/a .035 shim; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .035 shim And with that done I turned to the lower plenum, aka intake manifold. But I soon wished I'd made a mask using the intake manifold gasket when I painted the heads as I had a lot of paint I had to remove in order to get down to bare metal. That took a long time to clean up, but when I done it was time to put the plenum on. I'd seen Scott's pic on his FB page about using RTV on the gasket, and here's how he does it, with the caption saying "Note sparing use of RTV to avoid oil creep from the valley into the ports and above." So that's what I did on the inside of the gasket. But I put a similar bead of RTV around the water ports on the other side of the gasket. That took quite a bit of time, but with it done I made a large bead of RTV across the china walls and, with the studs in the corners, I lowered the plenum on. Then I installed the bolts and nuts snug to pull the plenum down into the RTV and I'll leave it over night and then torque things down in the morn. But, here's what it is starting to look like: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Interesting, Bill. What did the engineers see in the Pacer? Anyway, guess you got them sorted. As for that I did today, I installed the rest of the push rods. And I got it down to kind of an art. I turned the bolt in using my fingers until it suddenly became harder to turn, which was when it was starting to compress the lifter and create the preload. Turn it in with a small wrench from there and count the turns. The goal is 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and a .020" shim takes about 1/4 of a turn out of the preload and a .035" shim takes out just a bit less than 1/2 of a turn. If needed, back off and put the right shim in, and go again. And here are the results: #1: Intake 1/2 turn with no shim; Exhaust 1/2 with no shim #2: Intake 3/8 turn w/a .020"; Exhaust 1/2 turn with no shim #3: Intake 1/2 turn w/a .020"; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020" #4: Intake 3/8 turn w/a .035; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020 #5: Intake 1/4 turn w/no shim; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .020 #6: Intake 1/2 turn w/a .020; Exhaust 1/2 w/a .020 #7: Intake 3/8 turn w/no shim; Exhaust 1/4 w/no shim #8: Intake 1/4 turn w/a .035 shim; Exhaust 3/8 w/a .035 shim And with that done I turned to the lower plenum, aka intake manifold. But I soon wished I'd made a mask using the intake manifold gasket when I painted the heads as I had a lot of paint I had to remove in order to get down to bare metal. That took a long time to clean up, but when I done it was time to put the plenum on. I'd seen Scott's pic on his FB page about using RTV on the gasket, and here's how he does it, with the caption saying "Note sparing use of RTV to avoid oil creep from the valley into the ports and above." So that's what I did on the inside of the gasket. But I put a similar bead of RTV around the water ports on the other side of the gasket. That took quite a bit of time, but with it done I made a large bead of RTV across the china walls and, with the studs in the corners, I lowered the plenum on. Then I installed the bolts and nuts snug to pull the plenum down into the RTV and I'll leave it over night and then torque things down in the morn. But, here's what it is starting to look like: Man, that’s looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Man, that’s looking good! Thanks, Dane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Man, that’s looking good! Looks good, color's a bit different though. Once I get the PC'd parts on mine I will get a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Looks good, color's a bit different though. Once I get the PC'd parts on mine I will get a picture. Thanks. I used Dupli Color's dark Ford blue engine paint and I think it is darker than the paint Ford used. But since your PC'd parts and mine are exactly the same color we'll know when we compare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts