85lebaront2 Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Well, things are coming together. But I have some questions before I post the progress: First, I've read about adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to 1.0 volts. But this Motorcraft TPS doesn't appear to be adjustable as the holes are the same size as the screws. And it is said to be the right unit. So were they not adjustable by '96? Second, how do I get the speed control cable through this bracket, which is the one that bolts on the side of the upper plenum? Somehow I appear to have gotten it off/out of the bracket but I can't figure out how to get it back on. And it goes in the squarish hole on the left. Ok, now for the progress. Here's a shot of the upper plenum with the right side bored out to the scribe mark. Turned out that the holes were not round, by any means. They are now as both sides have been bored out to the scribe marks and clear the throttle body nicely. And then I added the vacuum fittings, vacuum plugs, throttle body, IAC, TPS, etc and even put the throttle cable on. Here's a top side view, and it is starting to look like a complete engine. And here are side shots: Gary, you are close, here is Darth's before I got the proper cable: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 Gary, you are close, here is Darth's before I got the proper cable: Ahhhh!!!!! That makes sense! Thanks, Bill. No comment about the adjustability of the TPS? It just bolts on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Ahhhh!!!!! That makes sense! Thanks, Bill. No comment about the adjustability of the TPS? It just bolts on? No adjustment is needed, where ever it reads on startup is set as closed throttle. This was a change on the trucks with the 1987 models I believe, cars were squirrely at least through the end of the 5.0L SD/SEFI systems. I had a bypass kit installed on our 1990 Town Car in order to get the idle speed and TPS in tolerance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 No adjustment is needed, where ever it reads on startup is set as closed throttle. This was a change on the trucks with the 1987 models I believe, cars were squirrely at least through the end of the 5.0L SD/SEFI systems. I had a bypass kit installed on our 1990 Town Car in order to get the idle speed and TPS in tolerance. Thanks, Bill. That's what I was looking for. And I'm glad that was the answer as this one isn't adjustable. I think the next thing to install is the speed control unit. The cable isn't perfect but may be acceptable. And now that I know where the end is supposed to go... After that I think it is time to install the O2 sensors. And with that I think it'll be time to start into the wiring phase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 Thanks, Bill. That's what I was looking for. And I'm glad that was the answer as this one isn't adjustable. I think the next thing to install is the speed control unit. The cable isn't perfect but may be acceptable. And now that I know where the end is supposed to go... After that I think it is time to install the O2 sensors. And with that I think it'll be time to start into the wiring phase. Well, things were going swimmingly so I should have expected one of Bill's locomotives. First, I pulled the cable off the speed control module and lubed it. And I wrapped it with electrical tape at the two spots on it where the outer covering had broken off. Hopefully that will keep moisture and dirt out. And I then put it back on the module and installed the module. Sure enough, it snapped into place where Bill said it would on the bracket. Next I laid out the two Bosch O2 sensors that I bought. Both Amazon and Rock Auto say that #15716 is correct for the front right sensor, but Amazon says 15717 is wrong and RA says it is right for the front left. However, as far as I can tell the only difference is the length of the wire, with the #15716 having 8" of wire and #15717 having 12". And since I'm making my own harness it doesn't matter. Given that I installed the right sensor. But when I pulled the plug on the left side I found the locomotive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 Well, things were going swimmingly so I should have expected one of Bill's locomotives. First, I pulled the cable off the speed control module and lubed it. And I wrapped it with electrical tape at the two spots on it where the outer covering had broken off. Hopefully that will keep moisture and dirt out. And I then put it back on the module and installed the module. Sure enough, it snapped into place where Bill said it would on the bracket. Next I laid out the two Bosch O2 sensors that I bought. Both Amazon and Rock Auto say that #15716 is correct for the front right sensor, but Amazon says 15717 is wrong and RA says it is right for the front left. However, as far as I can tell the only difference is the length of the wire, with the #15716 having 8" of wire and #15717 having 12". And since I'm making my own harness it doesn't matter. Given that I installed the right sensor. But when I pulled the plug on the left side I found the locomotive. Oh boy! I would have said, aw shucks and darn! Plans? A friend has a hammer like this with Plan B written on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 Oh boy! I would have said, aw shucks and darn! Plans? A friend has a hammer like this with Plan B written on it. I think the Dremel with a carbide burr may do it. I'm going to lunch and will come back and give that a try. I want to preserve the threads, so need to be cautious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 I think the Dremel with a carbide burr may do it. I'm going to lunch and will come back and give that a try. I want to preserve the threads, so need to be cautious. Ouch, who was responsible for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 Ouch, who was responsible for that? It wasn't me, Shaun. I had the exhaust system put on by a "professional". But, it took no more than 5 minutes to clean it up with a carbide burr in the Dremel. The pic below implies there's no metal showing, but if you look at it from an angle there is. However, the way the bung is made the threads are actually narrower than the bung at the bottom and I took the exhaust pipe back to almost the bung. But I ran an old O2 sensor in and there were no marks on it so I'm confident that it is clear. So I installed the O2 sensor and found the next locomotive. The pic on the left is at full droop and the clearance to the driveshaft is 2". The pic on the right is sitting on the ground and the clearance is 1". So, since the truck sits at about the mid-point of the articulation when on the ground it is very likely the driveshaft will hit at full compression. I think I'll be ok to go ahead and get the EFI system going, and can even drive it w/o worrying that it'll hit. But once I get it going I'll need to take it back to them and have them drop the system and move the bung. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 I think the Dremel with a carbide burr may do it. I'm going to lunch and will come back and give that a try. I want to preserve the threads, so need to be cautious. Yes, that’s the hard part. I was thinking Dremel. Hope it cuts it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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