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Big Blue's Transformation


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Impressive work, as always, Gary! :nabble_smiley_good:

Laying down on the job? :nabble_smiley_wink:

Yes, David, I was laying down on the job. And I did so again today. Man, I'm using the goodie out of that creeper. :nabble_smiley_wink:

But I don't know how I'd do this w/o it. Today I finished up the fuel system by getting the fuel rails bolted down to the lower plenum. And I added the standoffs on top to which the wiring attaches.

Then I tackled the cooling system changes that were needed. To do that I drained quite a bit of the coolant out, using a hose on that fancy petcock that Scott found. Boy, do I like that!

Then I pulled the thermostat housing and thermostat off and installed the new 180F 'stat and new housing. And I moved the temp senders around so the engine coolant temp (ECT) unit is where it is supposed to be to match the wiring, the temp gauge sender is in the other hole in the lower plenum, and the aftermarket sender is now in the thermostat housing.

Here's what all of that looks like now:

Fuel_System_Complete.thumb.jpg.0ca183b5fbdef2081dc5be5192db277b.jpg

But, it wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. That's 'cause the aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge tubes, the AFR meter's wiring, and the vacuum hose to the gauge were using the hole in the firewall that the ~50 wires to the ECU are going to use - the oval one in the pic below. So I had to pry that grommet out and gently fish all of that stuff back into the cab.

Then I removed the grommet that the speed control hose and harness had been using from the hose and harness, and fed the afore mentioned stuff through it. And again, that wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. But, I got it done and then fed the stuff back through the hole in the firewall where the speed control stuff had been - the one above the oval hole.

And now the oil pressure gauge and coolant temp gauges are hooked up. And the vacuum line to the gauge is connected to that tee and the open hose will go to the back of the upper plenum when it is installed. And the wiring laying on the cowl is to the AFR gauge's O2 sensor, so I'll have to figure out where to install that and run the wiring to it.

And, when all of the wiring that is going through the firewall is in place I'll fill the grommets with black The Right Stuff to seal them up.

New_Firewall_Grommet_In_Place.thumb.jpg.78e3ca45574e01f10fd1dc18ef1eccad.jpg

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Yes, David, I was laying down on the job. And I did so again today. Man, I'm using the goodie out of that creeper. :nabble_smiley_wink:

But I don't know how I'd do this w/o it. Today I finished up the fuel system by getting the fuel rails bolted down to the lower plenum. And I added the standoffs on top to which the wiring attaches.

Then I tackled the cooling system changes that were needed. To do that I drained quite a bit of the coolant out, using a hose on that fancy petcock that Scott found. Boy, do I like that!

Then I pulled the thermostat housing and thermostat off and installed the new 180F 'stat and new housing. And I moved the temp senders around so the engine coolant temp (ECT) unit is where it is supposed to be to match the wiring, the temp gauge sender is in the other hole in the lower plenum, and the aftermarket sender is now in the thermostat housing.

Here's what all of that looks like now:

But, it wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. That's 'cause the aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge tubes, the AFR meter's wiring, and the vacuum hose to the gauge were using the hole in the firewall that the ~50 wires to the ECU are going to use - the oval one in the pic below. So I had to pry that grommet out and gently fish all of that stuff back into the cab.

Then I removed the grommet that the speed control hose and harness had been using from the hose and harness, and fed the afore mentioned stuff through it. And again, that wasn't nearly as easy to do as to type. But, I got it done and then fed the stuff back through the hole in the firewall where the speed control stuff had been - the one above the oval hole.

And now the oil pressure gauge and coolant temp gauges are hooked up. And the vacuum line to the gauge is connected to that tee and the open hose will go to the back of the upper plenum when it is installed. And the wiring laying on the cowl is to the AFR gauge's O2 sensor, so I'll have to figure out where to install that and run the wiring to it.

And, when all of the wiring that is going through the firewall is in place I'll fill the grommets with black The Right Stuff to seal them up.

Whew! :nabble_sarcastic-23_orig:

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Whew! :nabble_sarcastic-23_orig:

LOL! Yes, it was a good day. The through-the-firewall stuff isn't my favorite thing to do, but that part of it is done. Today I'll tackle the throttle cable, which is much longer for the EFI'd 460's. Then maybe the ignition coil. We'll see.

There are just so MANY things to do it is hard to focus. But my plan has been to get the engine and its components in place so I can then turn to the wiring. And that's where it gets tedious. :nabble_smiley_scared:

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LOL! Yes, it was a good day. The through-the-firewall stuff isn't my favorite thing to do, but that part of it is done. Today I'll tackle the throttle cable, which is much longer for the EFI'd 460's. Then maybe the ignition coil. We'll see.

There are just so MANY things to do it is hard to focus. But my plan has been to get the engine and its components in place so I can then turn to the wiring. And that's where it gets tedious. :nabble_smiley_scared:

Well, I did get the throttle cable and the ignition coil done, but there's more of a story to tell than that.

I pulled Huck's throttle cable out and checked it over closely. It is in pretty good shape, but I wondered about replacing it so checked out Rock Auto. They seem to think the cable should be either 37 1/2 or 43 1/4" long when the one I have measures 36 1/4" from the point where the ball goes in to the ferrule on the other end. I don't know exactly how they measure, but the 37 1/4" might be the one. However, not knowing and having one that is in decent shape, I cleaned it up, shot it full of my favorite sticky lube (PJ's Chain Lube), and installed it. After all, it is a pretty easy job to replace it later - if I need to do that.

Then I pulled out the coil mount I made probably two years ago and dug the coils out. However none of the coils I have are up to my cosmetic standards, so I removed the best coil from its bracket and painted the coil and powder coated the bracket. And they are now installed.

Meanwhile the new speed control deactivation switch (SCDS) and cable came in. As promised, here's a comparison of the new switch and harness on the top and the old harness on the bottom. (I've thrown the old, red, SCDS away.)

Note how small and tidy the new harness is as opposed to the old gangly one, which is the 2nd version -the one with two fuses and the label that says the fuses can't be replaced. Also note that the connectors on the right ends of the harnii are different. The TSB says you have to use the new harness, and indeed you do as the old one won't plug into the new switch.

Speed_Control_Deactivation_Switch__Harness.thumb.jpg.ffee0ad24ba49c91ab1a8f88c2f45bd9.jpg

Anyway, I followed the TSB's directions and installed the new SCDS and harness. And here's a shot of the engine compartment that is gradually coming into the 90's. You can see the throttle cable on the left, coil & bracket in the middle, and SCDS and harness on the far right.

Throttle_Cable__Coil__SCDS_Installed.thumb.jpg.cf7f6e2feded4979608709521fe65f9a.jpg

And with that done I started thinking about installing the upper plenum. But I remembered that I want to enlarge its openings where the throttle body mounts since there's a mismatch. I've been wondering how to do that, and then it dawned on me I could tilt the head of the mill, bolt the plenum to the table, and use the boring bar to open up the hole.

Here's a shot of what that looks like:

Upper_Plenum_In_Mill.thumb.jpg.5615d4ba92969e751293a25aff586b84.jpg

And here's a closeup where you can see my scribe marks. I still have a bit of dialing in to do, but should get that done tomorrow and then open the plenum up a bit. If that goes well maybe I can get the plenum and throttle body mounted, although I need to install the TPS on the throttle body and it'll be easier to adjust it on the bench than on the truck.

As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel.

Upper_Plenum_In_Mill.thumb.jpg.5615d4ba92969e751293a25aff586b84.jpg

Closeup_Of_Upper_Plenum_In_Mill.thumb.jpg.07abc08eb7d49faae8a19eebfaf8042e.jpg

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Well, I did get the throttle cable and the ignition coil done, but there's more of a story to tell than that.

I pulled Huck's throttle cable out and checked it over closely. It is in pretty good shape, but I wondered about replacing it so checked out Rock Auto. They seem to think the cable should be either 37 1/2 or 43 1/4" long when the one I have measures 36 1/4" from the point where the ball goes in to the ferrule on the other end. I don't know exactly how they measure, but the 37 1/4" might be the one. However, not knowing and having one that is in decent shape, I cleaned it up, shot it full of my favorite sticky lube (PJ's Chain Lube), and installed it. After all, it is a pretty easy job to replace it later - if I need to do that.

Then I pulled out the coil mount I made probably two years ago and dug the coils out. However none of the coils I have are up to my cosmetic standards, so I removed the best coil from its bracket and painted the coil and powder coated the bracket. And they are now installed.

Meanwhile the new speed control deactivation switch (SCDS) and cable came in. As promised, here's a comparison of the new switch and harness on the top and the old harness on the bottom. (I've thrown the old, red, SCDS away.)

Note how small and tidy the new harness is as opposed to the old gangly one, which is the 2nd version -the one with two fuses and the label that says the fuses can't be replaced. Also note that the connectors on the right ends of the harnii are different. The TSB says you have to use the new harness, and indeed you do as the old one won't plug into the new switch.

Anyway, I followed the TSB's directions and installed the new SCDS and harness. And here's a shot of the engine compartment that is gradually coming into the 90's. You can see the throttle cable on the left, coil & bracket in the middle, and SCDS and harness on the far right.

And with that done I started thinking about installing the upper plenum. But I remembered that I want to enlarge its openings where the throttle body mounts since there's a mismatch. I've been wondering how to do that, and then it dawned on me I could tilt the head of the mill, bolt the plenum to the table, and use the boring bar to open up the hole.

Here's a shot of what that looks like:

And here's a closeup where you can see my scribe marks. I still have a bit of dialing in to do, but should get that done tomorrow and then open the plenum up a bit. If that goes well maybe I can get the plenum and throttle body mounted, although I need to install the TPS on the throttle body and it'll be easier to adjust it on the bench than on the truck.

As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel.

Looking good sir! Now a word regarding this statement "As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel."

The light at the end of the tunnel might just be a train coming at you.

 

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Well, I did get the throttle cable and the ignition coil done, but there's more of a story to tell than that.

I pulled Huck's throttle cable out and checked it over closely. It is in pretty good shape, but I wondered about replacing it so checked out Rock Auto. They seem to think the cable should be either 37 1/2 or 43 1/4" long when the one I have measures 36 1/4" from the point where the ball goes in to the ferrule on the other end. I don't know exactly how they measure, but the 37 1/4" might be the one. However, not knowing and having one that is in decent shape, I cleaned it up, shot it full of my favorite sticky lube (PJ's Chain Lube), and installed it. After all, it is a pretty easy job to replace it later - if I need to do that.

Then I pulled out the coil mount I made probably two years ago and dug the coils out. However none of the coils I have are up to my cosmetic standards, so I removed the best coil from its bracket and painted the coil and powder coated the bracket. And they are now installed.

Meanwhile the new speed control deactivation switch (SCDS) and cable came in. As promised, here's a comparison of the new switch and harness on the top and the old harness on the bottom. (I've thrown the old, red, SCDS away.)

Note how small and tidy the new harness is as opposed to the old gangly one, which is the 2nd version -the one with two fuses and the label that says the fuses can't be replaced. Also note that the connectors on the right ends of the harnii are different. The TSB says you have to use the new harness, and indeed you do as the old one won't plug into the new switch.

Anyway, I followed the TSB's directions and installed the new SCDS and harness. And here's a shot of the engine compartment that is gradually coming into the 90's. You can see the throttle cable on the left, coil & bracket in the middle, and SCDS and harness on the far right.

And with that done I started thinking about installing the upper plenum. But I remembered that I want to enlarge its openings where the throttle body mounts since there's a mismatch. I've been wondering how to do that, and then it dawned on me I could tilt the head of the mill, bolt the plenum to the table, and use the boring bar to open up the hole.

Here's a shot of what that looks like:

And here's a closeup where you can see my scribe marks. I still have a bit of dialing in to do, but should get that done tomorrow and then open the plenum up a bit. If that goes well maybe I can get the plenum and throttle body mounted, although I need to install the TPS on the throttle body and it'll be easier to adjust it on the bench than on the truck.

As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel.

Good job Gary! Looking good!

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Good job Gary! Looking good!

Thanks, Dane.

Bill - Thanks, but... Eventually I'll find the end of the tunnel. You got out of the tunnel, and with your help I think I can. But I'm sure there will be some locomotives, and maybe even long trains, coming at me before getting there.

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Thanks, Dane.

Bill - Thanks, but... Eventually I'll find the end of the tunnel. You got out of the tunnel, and with your help I think I can. But I'm sure there will be some locomotives, and maybe even long trains, coming at me before getting there.

I don't recall seeing that Grizzley Mill in your shop, Gary! Did I miss that? Nice boring tool; how much are you opening that up to? Looks like you're making progress!

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I don't recall seeing that Grizzley Mill in your shop, Gary! Did I miss that? Nice boring tool; how much are you opening that up to? Looks like you're making progress!

John - It was in the corner, between the lathe and the blasting cabinet. Can't do w/o it.

Yes, that boring tool is great. You can increase the radius in .001" increments. And I hope to take about .060"out of the lower side. Somehow the hole appears to be high and to the outside, as you can see in the pic below.

So I'm hoping to find the center and get the radius right, and then shift the head down and in and at the same time increase the radius by the same amount. Does that make sense?

BBK_TB__Upper_Plenum_Matchup.thumb.jpg.810b623c5a85c0bf2e55bf3cbdac9942.jpg

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John - It was in the corner, between the lathe and the blasting cabinet. Can't do w/o it.

Yes, that boring tool is great. You can increase the radius in .001" increments. And I hope to take about .060"out of the lower side. Somehow the hole appears to be high and to the outside, as you can see in the pic below.

So I'm hoping to find the center and get the radius right, and then shift the head down and in and at the same time increase the radius by the same amount. Does that make sense?

Well, things are coming together. But I have some questions before I post the progress:

First, I've read about adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to 1.0 volts. But this Motorcraft TPS doesn't appear to be adjustable as the holes are the same size as the screws. And it is said to be the right unit. So were they not adjustable by '96?

Second, how do I get the speed control cable through this bracket, which is the one that bolts on the side of the upper plenum? Somehow I appear to have gotten it off/out of the bracket but I can't figure out how to get it back on. And it goes in the squarish hole on the left.

Throttle_Bracket__Speed_Control_Cable.thumb.jpg.0ddf4527d895a9b923173818e5666691.jpg

Ok, now for the progress. Here's a shot of the upper plenum with the right side bored out to the scribe mark. Turned out that the holes were not round, by any means. They are now as both sides have been bored out to the scribe marks and clear the throttle body nicely.

Upper_Plenum_With_Right_Side_Bored.thumb.jpg.4258f4b6b90cf6a7ab8f45295025da5f.jpg

And then I added the vacuum fittings, vacuum plugs, throttle body, IAC, TPS, etc and even put the throttle cable on. Here's a top side view, and it is starting to look like a complete engine.

Top_Side_Of_Engine_With_Upper_Plenum_On.thumb.jpg.902094963502129a17429cf46e67368c.jpg

And here are side shots:

Left_Side_Of_Engine_With_Upper_Plenum_On.thumb.jpg.1ac6d23cbfc7dfff8f56f40a62a58e24.jpgRight_Side_Of_Engine_With_Upper_Plenum_On.thumb.jpg.ef43589c1f2fe2cd75321066ae291c33.jpg

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