Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, what I did won't help you. I have a 1996 column in Darth. As a result my wiring is the 1996 wiring. The wiring in the horn pad is the same and I believe if you check the electronic cruise you will find that the DG/O is a ground (speed control switch return) LB/BK is your "to speed control" that was the amplifier signal and DB of course is to the horn relay (which in 1985 was only used with speed control). In trying to dig up some other wiring possibilities, I found on a 1996 Thunderbird a "brake overtravel switch" which was a mechanical equivalent of the hydraulic switch. It was apparently in case of a brake system problem, but they were also on ABS systems.

I'll check the speed control module tomorrow on the DG/O wire. But I'll bet just grounding that will work.

Still have to work my way through the C305(A) bit, but I think I'm just about "there" on the speed control issue.

[Gary Lewis]

I'll check the speed control module tomorrow on the DG/O wire. But I'll bet just grounding that will work.

Still have to work my way through the C305(A) bit, but I think I'm just about "there" on the speed control issue.

Well, none of the pins on the later speed control that I have are connected to ground. None. I actually don't know that it is any good as it came from Huck. But I wouldn't think a ground would be blown.

Anyway, I got the Cardone MAF sensor in today, and it came with a new MAF casting.

Here are the two side by side, with my PC'd casting on the left.

Subsequent to taking the picture above I put the Cardone sensor on the Motorcraft casting. It went on ok, but the second screw wasn't as easy to turn in as the first was.

But when I tried to put the old Motorcraft sensor on the Cardone casting the 2nd screw wouldn't go. And a quick look determined why - the screw hole doesn't line up.

Also, I'm quite confused as to why I got a casting along with the sensor. Here's Rock Auto's listing for MAF units for a '96 F350. Note that the Cardone 869524 is shown in the picture as just the sensor.

And here's Amazon listing, which is where I ordered the item. All of the little pictures are of the sensor.

 

[salans7]

Well, none of the pins on the later speed control that I have are connected to ground. None. I actually don't know that it is any good as it came from Huck. But I wouldn't think a ground would be blown.

Anyway, I got the Cardone MAF sensor in today, and it came with a new MAF casting.

Here are the two side by side, with my PC'd casting on the left.

Subsequent to taking the picture above I put the Cardone sensor on the Motorcraft casting. It went on ok, but the second screw wasn't as easy to turn in as the first was.

But when I tried to put the old Motorcraft sensor on the Cardone casting the 2nd screw wouldn't go. And a quick look determined why - the screw hole doesn't line up.

Also, I'm quite confused as to why I got a casting along with the sensor. Here's Rock Auto's listing for MAF units for a '96 F350. Note that the Cardone 869524 is shown in the picture as just the sensor.

And here's Amazon listing, which is where I ordered the item. All of the little pictures are of the sensor.

Now you see why I don't recommend aftermarket new casting distributors.

[Gary Lewis]

Now you see why I don't recommend aftermarket new casting distributors.

Yes, I see. Either I got lucky and my new distributor's casting measurements are correct, or it is correct to the adapter and cap that came with it. I guess we will see when I try to put a new cap on.

Speaking of that, I wasn't aware that the cap for an EFI engine is different than for a carb'd engine. But the cap off the old DS-II distributor won't fit on the EFI distributor with the rotor in place. The rotor seems too high and won't let the cap sit down. But the cap fits fine w/o the rotor.

[85lebaront2]

Yes, I see. Either I got lucky and my new distributor's casting measurements are correct, or it is correct to the adapter and cap that came with it. I guess we will see when I try to put a new cap on.

Speaking of that, I wasn't aware that the cap for an EFI engine is different than for a carb'd engine. But the cap off the old DS-II distributor won't fit on the EFI distributor with the rotor in place. The rotor seems too high and won't let the cap sit down. But the cap fits fine w/o the rotor.

So what does the Cardone sensor say on it "Made in China"? I guess just like the distributor. On getting the assembly, maybe they were out of loose sensors and sent an assembly.

BTW, I looked at my still disassembled distributor, there is no lower bushing so the shaft does have side play at the bottom, once in the engine the shaft pilots in the block.

[Gary Lewis]

So what does the Cardone sensor say on it "Made in China"? I guess just like the distributor. On getting the assembly, maybe they were out of loose sensors and sent an assembly.

BTW, I looked at my still disassembled distributor, there is no lower bushing so the shaft does have side play at the bottom, once in the engine the shaft pilots in the block.

I'll see what the MAF sensor says tomorrow. Probably China.

On the dizzy, I like the fact that the new Cardone unit has essentially no side play as I don't know how tight of a fit is has in the block.

[85lebaront2]

I'll see what the MAF sensor says tomorrow. Probably China.

On the dizzy, I like the fact that the new Cardone unit has essentially no side play as I don't know how tight of a fit is has in the block.

I got my eBay F5OF sensor (complete) in the mail today. It has the F5OF sensor on a plastic housing. Tag attached says 96 - 05 5.4L F150.

[Gary Lewis]

I got my eBay F5OF sensor (complete) in the mail today. It has the F5OF sensor on a plastic housing. Tag attached says 96 - 05 5.4L F150.

Is that a used item, Bill? And 90mm?

My XL3F-BA Jaguar unit is to be in tomorrow. It'll be interesting to see what it says. And, btw, the Cardone unit does not say where it was made. Neither the sensor nor the casting.

[Gary Lewis]

Is that a used item, Bill? And 90mm?

My XL3F-BA Jaguar unit is to be in tomorrow. It'll be interesting to see what it says. And, btw, the Cardone unit does not say where it was made. Neither the sensor nor the casting.

Well, for much of today this was my position. And w/o that Topside Creeper it would have been a HUGE pain. Literally.

And that led to what you see below. However, lest you miss a few points, let me 'splain what the picture represents.

First, the rubber fuel lines that connected the Nylon lines to the regulators are gone and the factory pigtails that connect the fuel rails to the Nylon fuel lines are in place. However, that in and of itself was a bit of a battle as the rubber hoses were held to the back of the engine via a plate I'd made that was secured by the upper left transmission bolt. But the way the hoses ran down the back of the transmission made it really difficult to get to that bolt from below, even with the lift, so I took it out from above. And then I installed the pigtails from above, and they are also held by that same bolt. And under the truck I then connected the pigtails to the Nylon lines.

And the injectors are in. But in order to ensure they'd seal well I spent a looooong time with Q-Tips and lacquer thinner cleaning the bungs in the lower plenum. I'd put the brass plugs in with PTFE so it wouldn't set up hard, but even then there was a lot of cleanup. I probably used two dozen Q-Tips, and again it would not have been easy, and maybe not possible, w/o the creeper as that puts your face right down at the level of the bungs so you can see into them.

But I'm not quite done. The rear hold-down stud isn't in as it doesn't quite line up. I think the supply pigtail is pushing the fuel rail left in the picture, so I have a bit of "alignment" to do tomorrow. But the other three studs are in and snug, so we just need a bit of "persuasion" as my father would have said.

[1986F150Six]

Well, for much of today this was my position. And w/o that Topside Creeper it would have been a HUGE pain. Literally.

And that led to what you see below. However, lest you miss a few points, let me 'splain what the picture represents.

First, the rubber fuel lines that connected the Nylon lines to the regulators are gone and the factory pigtails that connect the fuel rails to the Nylon fuel lines are in place. However, that in and of itself was a bit of a battle as the rubber hoses were held to the back of the engine via a plate I'd made that was secured by the upper left transmission bolt. But the way the hoses ran down the back of the transmission made it really difficult to get to that bolt from below, even with the lift, so I took it out from above. And then I installed the pigtails from above, and they are also held by that same bolt. And under the truck I then connected the pigtails to the Nylon lines.

And the injectors are in. But in order to ensure they'd seal well I spent a looooong time with Q-Tips and lacquer thinner cleaning the bungs in the lower plenum. I'd put the brass plugs in with PTFE so it wouldn't set up hard, but even then there was a lot of cleanup. I probably used two dozen Q-Tips, and again it would not have been easy, and maybe not possible, w/o the creeper as that puts your face right down at the level of the bungs so you can see into them.

But I'm not quite done. The rear hold-down stud isn't in as it doesn't quite line up. I think the supply pigtail is pushing the fuel rail left in the picture, so I have a bit of "alignment" to do tomorrow. But the other three studs are in and snug, so we just need a bit of "persuasion" as my father would have said.

Impressive work, as always, Gary!

Laying down on the job?