Big Blue's Transformation

[85lebaront2]

You have the later brake master with the switch on the top. Mine's the older one with the switch toward the bottom on the passenger's side.

But is that a trailer brake controller? And Scotchlocks?

I believe mine was for a 1993 up w/cruise, yours may be different as it matches the hydroboost or newer as the 1998 up I believe had the cancel switch underneath.

Yes, it is the Kelsey-Hayes unit that you scanned the instructions from, yes scotch locks, that is the Ford pigtail for the 1996 harness (tow package wiring seems to either be standard or the donor had it) and it came with those and instructions for using them. The ground is added as the original installation on the controller didn't have one. I'm not sure it's even needed on that controller as it isn't in the instructions as far as I remember.

That controller has been in Darth since not long after I bought him, he had an electronic one and I was going to keep it until I hit a rough area on US 17 in York County VA just before a red traffic signal. Trailer brakes pulsed so badly I thought I was going to break something. I went to Hitch Headquarters in Hampton VA and paid $60 for that one. A newer electronic one that is supposed to be as good is the Genesis that I installed on my 2009 Flex which has the factory tow package including the engine oil cooler.

[Gary Lewis]

I believe mine was for a 1993 up w/cruise, yours may be different as it matches the hydroboost or newer as the 1998 up I believe had the cancel switch underneath.

Yes, it is the Kelsey-Hayes unit that you scanned the instructions from, yes scotch locks, that is the Ford pigtail for the 1996 harness (tow package wiring seems to either be standard or the donor had it) and it came with those and instructions for using them. The ground is added as the original installation on the controller didn't have one. I'm not sure it's even needed on that controller as it isn't in the instructions as far as I remember.

That controller has been in Darth since not long after I bought him, he had an electronic one and I was going to keep it until I hit a rough area on US 17 in York County VA just before a red traffic signal. Trailer brakes pulsed so badly I thought I was going to break something. I went to Hitch Headquarters in Hampton VA and paid $60 for that one. A newer electronic one that is supposed to be as good is the Genesis that I installed on my 2009 Flex which has the factory tow package including the engine oil cooler.

I'm happy with the existing master cylinder, so assume that the switch being down isn't an issue. The instructions in the link show it in your position but say that the location can vary.

On the brake controller, I have a Tekonsha 90195 P3 on Big Blue and have used it quite a bit, with no problems at all. I think the electronic controllers have come a long way since the one that gave you fits, although I'm sure a hydraulic one is the best.

Thinking about today's work as I sip my 2nd cup of coffee and watch the squirrels decimate the bird feeder, I think installing the dizzy will be item #1. It came in last night and looks good. There's no slop in the lower bearing and the cap fits nicely. However, I'll use the cap that's on the plug wires at the moment, so it'll be interesting to see how well it fits this dizzy.

The injectors came in last night, but I'm not ready to install them yet as that requires having the fuel connections to the fuel rail in place, and I don't have them there yet. Plus I want the regulator on the fuel rail before installing it as it'll be easier, and it doesn't come in until Friday. By the way, where does the vacuum to the FPR go? I'm sure it is "manifold", but there are several places to pic that up.

Also arriving Friday is the new MAF sensor, so I'll want to PC the casting soon. However, I also want to PC the new thermostat housing, so will wait until it is in before doing any of that.

The other news is that FedEx says the Topside Creeper is to be delivered today. That's amazing as I ordered it late Monday and it will get here Wednesday? It didn't even ship until yesterday, Tuesday, morning. I ordered it directly from the manufacturer, TraXion, and was thinking that if I'd ordered from Amazon it might have gotten here earlier as they said Saturday or Sunday.

[85lebaront2]

I'm happy with the existing master cylinder, so assume that the switch being down isn't an issue. The instructions in the link show it in your position but say that the location can vary.

On the brake controller, I have a Tekonsha 90195 P3 on Big Blue and have used it quite a bit, with no problems at all. I think the electronic controllers have come a long way since the one that gave you fits, although I'm sure a hydraulic one is the best.

Thinking about today's work as I sip my 2nd cup of coffee and watch the squirrels decimate the bird feeder, I think installing the dizzy will be item #1. It came in last night and looks good. There's no slop in the lower bearing and the cap fits nicely. However, I'll use the cap that's on the plug wires at the moment, so it'll be interesting to see how well it fits this dizzy.

The injectors came in last night, but I'm not ready to install them yet as that requires having the fuel connections to the fuel rail in place, and I don't have them there yet. Plus I want the regulator on the fuel rail before installing it as it'll be easier, and it doesn't come in until Friday. By the way, where does the vacuum to the FPR go? I'm sure it is "manifold", but there are several places to pic that up.

Also arriving Friday is the new MAF sensor, so I'll want to PC the casting soon. However, I also want to PC the new thermostat housing, so will wait until it is in before doing any of that.

The other news is that FedEx says the Topside Creeper is to be delivered today. That's amazing as I ordered it late Monday and it will get here Wednesday? It didn't even ship until yesterday, Tuesday, morning. I ordered it directly from the manufacturer, TraXion, and was thinking that if I'd ordered from Amazon it might have gotten here earlier as they said Saturday or Sunday.

Ok, since there was only one question, there is a black plastic line that goes from the FPR to the front vacuum "tree".

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, since there was only one question, there is a black plastic line that goes from the FPR to the front vacuum "tree".

That's perfect, Bill. Now I know what to look for.

Next question - is this close enough? The #1 terminal is basically where the screw head is, and we are timed at 13 or 14 BTDC. It is off ~1/2" and my math says the next notch in the gear would get me .84", which would be slightly closer at .34".

I can't seem to get it in the next notch. I've put it in several times, and either get two notches or this one. And of course, I have to rotate the engine a bit to get it to drop down - surely due to the oil pump shaft laying over to the side.

So does it need to go one more?

[85lebaront2]

That's perfect, Bill. Now I know what to look for.

Next question - is this close enough? The #1 terminal is basically where the screw head is, and we are timed at 13 or 14 BTDC. It is off ~1/2" and my math says the next notch in the gear would get me .84", which would be slightly closer at .34".

I can't seem to get it in the next notch. I've put it in several times, and either get two notches or this one. And of course, I have to rotate the engine a bit to get it to drop down - surely due to the oil pump shaft laying over to the side.

So does it need to go one more?

Gary, that should be ok, the critical part is having #1 on #1 tower so the shutter is correctly positioned. As long as the cap clips will still work with the temperature sensor bulb installed.

I do see an issue, ECT is not yet installed and it normally goes where your gauge sender is (see my picture, front white shell is ECT, rear one is ACT for SD system) then the Gauge sender goes where your present mechanical gauge sender is screwed in. I assume that will be going into the new thermostat housing?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, that should be ok, the critical part is having #1 on #1 tower so the shutter is correctly positioned. As long as the cap clips will still work with the temperature sensor bulb installed.

I do see an issue, ECT is not yet installed and it normally goes where your gauge sender is (see my picture, front white shell is ECT, rear one is ACT for SD system) then the Gauge sender goes where your present mechanical gauge sender is screwed in. I assume that will be going into the new thermostat housing?

That is EXACTLY what I wanted to see. I thank you, and my knees thank you as well! (My Topside Creeper isn't in yet, and I've been up and down like a yoyo, inc kneeling on the radiator support.)

And the narrow "arm" of the shutter, which you said is #1, is as closely aligned with the pickup as I can get it. I may be off a degree or two, but it is very close and I'm sure I'll have to set the timing with the SPOUT disconnected when I start dialing it in.

As for the clips, they look like they'll clear nicely as they are at about 3:00 and 9:00.

And, look what I found. Your picture helped a whole bunch! The fuel pressure regulator just came in so I can start assembling the fuel rail.

[85lebaront2]

That is EXACTLY what I wanted to see. I thank you, and my knees thank you as well! (My Topside Creeper isn't in yet, and I've been up and down like a yoyo, inc kneeling on the radiator support.)

And the narrow "arm" of the shutter, which you said is #1, is as closely aligned with the pickup as I can get it. I may be off a degree or two, but it is very close and I'm sure I'll have to set the timing with the SPOUT disconnected when I start dialing it in.

As for the clips, they look like they'll clear nicely as they are at about 3:00 and 9:00.

And, look what I found. Your picture helped a whole bunch! The fuel pressure regulator just came in so I can start assembling the fuel rail.

Gary, the TFI system without the computer (SPOUT unplugged) fires on the leading edge of the shutter vane entering the HEP slot. That is why if you measure them the leading edges of all 8 vanes are exactly 45° apart.

For setting initial timing before starting, bring the engine to where you want it to fire, then key on, using a test spark plug or similar, turn the distributor body counter clockwise until the HEP is between the vanes, now just like we used to do with breaker points, slowly turn the distributor body clockwise until the coil fires. You may want to use a cap clip as a reference against the manifold if you want to make a few runs and split the difference if any. This should get you within 1 - 2° of your desired setting.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, the TFI system without the computer (SPOUT unplugged) fires on the leading edge of the shutter vane entering the HEP slot. That is why if you measure them the leading edges of all 8 vanes are exactly 45° apart.

For setting initial timing before starting, bring the engine to where you want it to fire, then key on, using a test spark plug or similar, turn the distributor body counter clockwise until the HEP is between the vanes, now just like we used to do with breaker points, slowly turn the distributor body clockwise until the coil fires. You may want to use a cap clip as a reference against the manifold if you want to make a few runs and split the difference if any. This should get you within 1 - 2° of your desired setting.

Leading edge! Duh! I should have realized that it had to be the edge.

So since it is the leading edge I'm already off as I have the middle of the vane lined up with the middle of the HEP. But it is good enough to go on until I get the ignition installed and can turn the key.

And, that's a really good tip to get it where I want it. Cool! And I understand the bit about using the clip as a reference to get it back to where I can do it again and make it right where I want it. Thanks!

As for what I did this afternoon, I prepped the fuel rail for installation. I used a felt disk on the Dremel and polishing compound to polish the "bells" where the injectors and fuel line attachments go, and the hole under the fuel pressure regulator where the two o-rings go. All of those where less than shiny when I started, but are shiny now, ready for their o-rings.

Then I installed the new fuel pressure regulator, newly-found vacuum hose, and fuel pressure lines. The lines will probably have to come off to connect up to the supply and return lines under the truck, but at least I know they fit nicely. And it isn't difficult when you have the right tool.

[85lebaront2]

Leading edge! Duh! I should have realized that it had to be the edge.

So since it is the leading edge I'm already off as I have the middle of the vane lined up with the middle of the HEP. But it is good enough to go on until I get the ignition installed and can turn the key.

And, that's a really good tip to get it where I want it. Cool! And I understand the bit about using the clip as a reference to get it back to where I can do it again and make it right where I want it. Thanks!

As for what I did this afternoon, I prepped the fuel rail for installation. I used a felt disk on the Dremel and polishing compound to polish the "bells" where the injectors and fuel line attachments go, and the hole under the fuel pressure regulator where the two o-rings go. All of those where less than shiny when I started, but are shiny now, ready for their o-rings.

Then I installed the new fuel pressure regulator, newly-found vacuum hose, and fuel pressure lines. The lines will probably have to come off to connect up to the supply and return lines under the truck, but at least I know they fit nicely. And it isn't difficult when you have the right tool.

That looks nice, did you powder coat them?

Item on powder coating the MAF body, only do the outside, you do not want to do anything inside as it might very well change the calibration.

[Gary Lewis]

That looks nice, did you powder coat them?

Item on powder coating the MAF body, only do the outside, you do not want to do anything inside as it might very well change the calibration.

Yes, I powder coated the fuel rails.

I have two sets of rails, but the other one has the 3-screw regulator and we agreed some time ago that the later, 2-screw regulator is the way to go. However, that set of fuel rails was rusty so I blasted and PC'd them to stop the rust.

And you are right, I'm not going to PC the inside of the MAF casting. After I bake the casting for an hour at 400F, which is necessary with that kind of aluminum casting as the pores hold contaminants that out-gas and blow the powder off, I'll mask it off to keep the powder off.

In any event, I'm going to protect the inside as well as the mounting spot for the sensor itself.