Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

If you look at the EEC information I sent you, the circuits and colors are in the spreadsheet. I have a 42 way male/female plug between the front harness and the engine harness so the harnesses can be easily separated during service, like removing and replacing the left valve cover.

If you have the 1996 EVTM, the EEC pinouts and the 42 way (C101) are there, just be careful in reading them, pay attention to the asterisked notes where you find them.

One other item, the ignition circuits are shielded, both from the distributor and the TFI module to the EEC. Those may be fun to locate. Any older truck with the remote TFI module, doesn't have to be a 460, will have it. 1990-96/7 are the years and you want a black module for EEC-V when you get one and bite the bullet and buy Motorcraft on that.

Yes, I have the '96 EVTM, both in two different paper books and several of the sections scanned in. Was using both book and online today.

This C101?

[85lebaront2]

Yes, I have the '96 EVTM, both in two different paper books and several of the sections scanned in. Was using both book and online today.

This C101?

Yes, C101 is the connector next to the PDC that the engine harness goes to.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, C101 is the connector next to the PDC that the engine harness goes to.

Yep, I thought that was the one.

Back to the fuel pressure regulator. I found the Motorcraft CM4760 in stock for $60. As I'm not trying to build a hotrod and want something that can be easily maintained, do you see any reason not to go with that one?

[85lebaront2]

Yep, I thought that was the one.

Back to the fuel pressure regulator. I found the Motorcraft CM4760 in stock for $60. As I'm not trying to build a hotrod and want something that can be easily maintained, do you see any reason not to go with that one?

Yes, as I mentioned earlier, if you want an answer on adjustable vs stock FPR, contact Core Tuning as they wrote the tuning software, BE.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, as I mentioned earlier, if you want an answer on adjustable vs stock FPR, contact Core Tuning as they wrote the tuning software, BE.

Bill - I'm not sure how to take your "Yes" since it was part of a longer sentence that mentioned calling Core Tuning. Was that your answer to my question of "Do you see any reason not to go with" the non-adjustable regulator? I was asking you, specifically.

But I will contact both Core Tuning as well as Aeromotive. I'll email CT, probably while watching the Chief's game this afternoon. May call as well.

And with Aeromotive the question is what is the difference between those two regulators, other than price? I'm sure they won't be there until tomorrow, but I'll try them this afternoon and send them an email if not.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I'm not sure how to take your "Yes" since it was part of a longer sentence that mentioned calling Core Tuning. Was that your answer to my question of "Do you see any reason not to go with" the non-adjustable regulator? I was asking you, specifically.

But I will contact both Core Tuning as well as Aeromotive. I'll email CT, probably while watching the Chief's game this afternoon. May call as well.

And with Aeromotive the question is what is the difference between those two regulators, other than price? I'm sure they won't be there until tomorrow, but I'll try them this afternoon and send them an email if not.

I don't see a reason for an adjustable FPR, I am not using one on Darth and will not on the new engine either. On the Chrysler, it was given to me along with the rare 2 piece intake and matching fuel rail.

Trivia item for you, you know that I owned a 1966 Shelby GT350, after Ford fired Lee Iaccoca, he was hired to save Chrysler. His first step was to bring Chrysler Corporation kicking and screaming into the small car market with the Omni and Horizon. His next move was the K-car, which was a design Ford had been working on under Lee, with his firing, Ford scrapped the program and it basically followed Lee to Chrysler becoming the K-car.

The first L bodies (Omni/Horizon) used a VW built 1.7L in-line 4, which slants back in the chassis. Manual transaxles were also sources from VW, automatics were developed based on the small engine Torqueflite. This made Chrysler's FWD chassis more like a European design than Ford and GM did. Once Chrysler's own 4, the 2.2L was in production, It was fairly quickly stuck in the L bodies as an option. In 1983 the VW sourced engine was replaced by a European Chrysler engine from Simca. Iaccoca saw the potential in building a "hot hatch" like some Japanese and European vehicles and asked Carrol Shelby if he would help (payback time for selling him engines for his Cobras). Shelby's first step was the Omni GLH by raising the compression and having Huntsville build a different spark computer for the 2.2L, giving it 110 HP.

In 1984, Chrysler had started turbocharging the 2.2L engines in the higher line K-cars as they did not have a V6 to compete with GM and Ford in that market. When Shelby got involved he improved the turbo system from a draw through throttle before the turbo, to a blow through design after the turbo, he added an intercooler and designed the two piece intake for better flow than the log design Chrysler was using. This manifold was only used in 1987 and early 1988, then replaced with an easier to service one piece (also cheaper to make). I have that Shelby designed manifold on my convertible.

I went from have a car Shelby designed to an engine he designed.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't see a reason for an adjustable FPR, I am not using one on Darth and will not on the new engine either. On the Chrysler, it was given to me along with the rare 2 piece intake and matching fuel rail.

Trivia item for you, you know that I owned a 1966 Shelby GT350, after Ford fired Lee Iaccoca, he was hired to save Chrysler. His first step was to bring Chrysler Corporation kicking and screaming into the small car market with the Omni and Horizon. His next move was the K-car, which was a design Ford had been working on under Lee, with his firing, Ford scrapped the program and it basically followed Lee to Chrysler becoming the K-car.

The first L bodies (Omni/Horizon) used a VW built 1.7L in-line 4, which slants back in the chassis. Manual transaxles were also sources from VW, automatics were developed based on the small engine Torqueflite. This made Chrysler's FWD chassis more like a European design than Ford and GM did. Once Chrysler's own 4, the 2.2L was in production, It was fairly quickly stuck in the L bodies as an option. In 1983 the VW sourced engine was replaced by a European Chrysler engine from Simca. Iaccoca saw the potential in building a "hot hatch" like some Japanese and European vehicles and asked Carrol Shelby if he would help (payback time for selling him engines for his Cobras). Shelby's first step was the Omni GLH by raising the compression and having Huntsville build a different spark computer for the 2.2L, giving it 110 HP.

In 1984, Chrysler had started turbocharging the 2.2L engines in the higher line K-cars as they did not have a V6 to compete with GM and Ford in that market. When Shelby got involved he improved the turbo system from a draw through throttle before the turbo, to a blow through design after the turbo, he added an intercooler and designed the two piece intake for better flow than the log design Chrysler was using. This manifold was only used in 1987 and early 1988, then replaced with an easier to service one piece (also cheaper to make). I have that Shelby designed manifold on my convertible.

I went from have a car Shelby designed to an engine he designed.

Bill - Thanks for your honest answer. I agree - I don't see a need for the adjustable FPR and I just ordered the Motorcraft F4SZ 9C968-A regulator.

And that's a cool story. You have quite the connection with Shelby. Bet you loved the movie - I sure did!

Now, for my good news. I've been beating my head against the proverbial wall 'cause I couldn't figure out the wiring to the O2 sensors and, as the Brits say, I finally twigged - there was a connector missing in the diagram in the EVTM!

As shown below, the circuit #'s & wire colors highlighted in green are the connections from the three O2 sensors to the ECU. I've traced them with my DVM and have tagged them with my label maker, so I know where they are and where they go. But right above them is C110 - which I've added to the drawing. Yep, save for the two connections in the upper left of the drawing C110 was completely missing. But I could see the female side of it there in the harness, so I was really confused.

As it turns out, I have the male side from Huck and it is fully populated. And while the colors aren't right and there are no O2 connectors, I have the start of a harness. So if I can find the right O2 connectors I think I can make it happen.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - Thanks for your honest answer. I agree - I don't see a need for the adjustable FPR and I just ordered the Motorcraft F4SZ 9C968-A regulator.

And that's a cool story. You have quite the connection with Shelby. Bet you loved the movie - I sure did!

Now, for my good news. I've been beating my head against the proverbial wall 'cause I couldn't figure out the wiring to the O2 sensors and, as the Brits say, I finally twigged - there was a connector missing in the diagram in the EVTM!

As shown below, the circuit #'s & wire colors highlighted in green are the connections from the three O2 sensors to the ECU. I've traced them with my DVM and have tagged them with my label maker, so I know where they are and where they go. But right above them is C110 - which I've added to the drawing. Yep, save for the two connections in the upper left of the drawing C110 was completely missing. But I could see the female side of it there in the harness, so I was really confused.

As it turns out, I have the male side from Huck and it is fully populated. And while the colors aren't right and there are no O2 connectors, I have the start of a harness. So if I can find the right O2 connectors I think I can make it happen.

And, toward that end, what about this pair of 24" O2 Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire Extension Wire Harnesses from Amazon for $25?

On the left are the connectors for those extensions. On the right is a pic of one of the O2 sensors that I got in today. Note that it doesn't have any tabs or fins sticking out. I just confirmed that the sensor will plug into a connector that has provisions for tabs/fins. So I'm thinking that a pair of these would probably be exactly what I need.

Thoughts? Better ideas?

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Thanks for your honest answer. I agree - I don't see a need for the adjustable FPR and I just ordered the Motorcraft F4SZ 9C968-A regulator.

And that's a cool story. You have quite the connection with Shelby. Bet you loved the movie - I sure did!

Now, for my good news. I've been beating my head against the proverbial wall 'cause I couldn't figure out the wiring to the O2 sensors and, as the Brits say, I finally twigged - there was a connector missing in the diagram in the EVTM!

As shown below, the circuit #'s & wire colors highlighted in green are the connections from the three O2 sensors to the ECU. I've traced them with my DVM and have tagged them with my label maker, so I know where they are and where they go. But right above them is C110 - which I've added to the drawing. Yep, save for the two connections in the upper left of the drawing C110 was completely missing. But I could see the female side of it there in the harness, so I was really confused.

As it turns out, I have the male side from Huck and it is fully populated. And while the colors aren't right and there are no O2 connectors, I have the start of a harness. So if I can find the right O2 connectors I think I can make it happen.

Ok, Gary, first, you do not need the downstream, it is the catalytic converter efficiency monitor, second neither of mine go through C110, left side comes off near it, right side comes off the other side of the front end harness, Hucks would have been where Big Ugly's was, back alongside the E4OD mount where the dual head pipes enter the catalytic converter.

O2 sensor numbering convention, 11 is bank 1 sensor 1 (bank one being the one #1 cyl is on), 21 is bank 2 sensor 1, 12 is bank 1 sensor 2, or if only 3, post cat sensor for the system. These locations are critical for mixture control, if they are mixed up the system will go crazy trying to adjust idle and cruise mixture.

On Darth, C1025 ends up right inner fender apron near the AC wiring, C1028 is in the front harness near the engine connector.

Front harness for Darth:

Left side O2 sensor connector, C1028, black plug is transmission connector:

Right side O2 sensor connector, C1025:

Left side O2 sensor:

Right side O2 sensor, C1025 is up top on inner fender:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, Gary, first, you do not need the downstream, it is the catalytic converter efficiency monitor, second neither of mine go through C110, left side comes off near it, right side comes off the other side of the front end harness, Hucks would have been where Big Ugly's was, back alongside the E4OD mount where the dual head pipes enter the catalytic converter.

O2 sensor numbering convention, 11 is bank 1 sensor 1 (bank one being the one #1 cyl is on), 21 is bank 2 sensor 1, 12 is bank 1 sensor 2, or if only 3, post cat sensor for the system. These locations are critical for mixture control, if they are mixed up the system will go crazy trying to adjust idle and cruise mixture.

On Darth, C1025 ends up right inner fender apron near the AC wiring, C1028 is in the front harness near the engine connector.

Front harness for Darth:

Left side O2 sensor connector, C1028, black plug is transmission connector:

Right side O2 sensor connector, C1025:

Left side O2 sensor:

Right side O2 sensor, C1025 is up top on inner fender:

Bill - I should have said that I'm not planning on having a downstream sensor. It is turned off in the ECU.

And yes, I had gone back to the previous discussions of where #11 is vs #21. But thanks for confirming that. Also, thanks for the locations of C1025 & C1028. I'll try to put mine in rough the same locations. Plus, the pictures help a bunch.

Given that, I ordered the 24" extensions as I'm pretty sure they'll work.

So now I think that all I'm missing is the MAF sensor. And I cannot find the Motorcraft unit I'm looking for, which is the F5OF unit that would be stock.

Here are the #'s you provided, as well as their CFM rating at 5.00 volts. So I'm looking for one of these in a Motorcraft brand. Anyone finds one please let me know.

• F8LF-12B579-AA: 598 CFM

• XL3F-12B579-BA: 582 CFM

• F50F-12B579-AA: 541 CFM