Big Blue's Transformation

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Your pictures have been INVALUABLE! I realized this morning that your hose from the MAF sensor to the wye is leaned back so that the port on the back is level. And sure enough, when I leaned mine back the hoses were long enough to reach the throttle body!

However, I'm not sure I agree with the IAC & the PVC hose connections. Or, maybe you are right but it doesn't matter?

In the pic on the left I have the EEC-IV hose from Huck sitting on the EEC-V hose from the F450. And the hose I have running to the IAC inlet has my tag on it saying it went to the IAC controller on Huck. You can see that the two fittings would be in essentially the same place, and Huck's IAC hose fits the EEC-V fitting.

And on the right I have a hose partially started into the fitting on the rear that you are using for the IAC, but you can see how easy it would be to connect it to the PVC fitting in the valve cover.

Any reason not to connect them that way?

Gary, it could, but mine has a silencer in the line to the IAC making it a bit longer.

That way the "S" bend hose lines up with the crankcase closure nipple.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, it could, but mine has a silencer in the line to the IAC making it a bit longer.

That way the "S" bend hose lines up with the crankcase closure nipple.

First, y'all, I found the right hose clamps! They were in a tote I hadn't fully gone through. So I'm good to go there.

Bill - I'd forgotten the IAC muffler, so thanks - again! I'm not sure I have the right hoses put together in this shot since the combo is ~2" too long, as you'll see in the next pic, but that's easily solved.

Here it is in place and you can see that I'll have to shorten one of the hoses a bit. But you can also see that I have the PVC connection made, although not with a purpose-made hose. Just one that is flexible enough to bend w/o kinking.

Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

First, y'all, I found the right hose clamps! They were in a tote I hadn't fully gone through. So I'm good to go there.

Bill - I'd forgotten the IAC muffler, so thanks - again! I'm not sure I have the right hoses put together in this shot since the combo is ~2" too long, as you'll see in the next pic, but that's easily solved.

Here it is in place and you can see that I'll have to shorten one of the hoses a bit. But you can also see that I have the PVC connection made, although not with a purpose-made hose. Just one that is flexible enough to bend w/o kinking.

Thoughts?

I've been emailing with Scotty, the mad porter, the one that built the short-block. Here are the questions and answers:

• Injectors: "26# accel injectors are fine. I believe these are the animals." I went back explaining that I was given a set of 24# Accel and asked if they are too small. "Yes."

• Fuel Pressure Regulator: I didn't ask, but he said "Adjustable PFR by aeromotive order for same year mustang as your EFI engines fuel rail is." I asked what pressure to set it to and he said "42 to 46 with the #26. Testing and adjustment via a wideband is best."

• Timing: I didn't ask, but he volunteered "12 to 14 initial no spout for timing."

• Thermostat: I also told him that I'd heard that he doesn't recommend running a 195 'stat and asked what he does recommend. "4364 mr gasket 180 stat." Some of you know that nothing from Mr Gasket enters my shop, so I'll accept the "180" bit.

• MAF Sensor: I asked him if he recommended any particular MAF sensor and he said "I have no input on the maf at this time."

And I got an answer back from BandRAuto, the outfit that has the airbox for sale on ebay: "Our Air Cleaners include the air box housing and lid with functional clamps only. They will NOT include any tubing, sensors, or filters. I don't have those available." Glad I found the right ones.

[Gary Lewis]

I've been emailing with Scotty, the mad porter, the one that built the short-block. Here are the questions and answers:

• Injectors: "26# accel injectors are fine. I believe these are the animals." I went back explaining that I was given a set of 24# Accel and asked if they are too small. "Yes."

• Fuel Pressure Regulator: I didn't ask, but he said "Adjustable PFR by aeromotive order for same year mustang as your EFI engines fuel rail is." I asked what pressure to set it to and he said "42 to 46 with the #26. Testing and adjustment via a wideband is best."

• Timing: I didn't ask, but he volunteered "12 to 14 initial no spout for timing."

• Thermostat: I also told him that I'd heard that he doesn't recommend running a 195 'stat and asked what he does recommend. "4364 mr gasket 180 stat." Some of you know that nothing from Mr Gasket enters my shop, so I'll accept the "180" bit.

• MAF Sensor: I asked him if he recommended any particular MAF sensor and he said "I have no input on the maf at this time."

And I got an answer back from BandRAuto, the outfit that has the airbox for sale on ebay: "Our Air Cleaners include the air box housing and lid with functional clamps only. They will NOT include any tubing, sensors, or filters. I don't have those available." Glad I found the right ones.

Well, things didn't go swimmingly on the distributor front today. I have two, one from the 1990 F250 and one from a '95 F450, and my plan was to take them apart and determine which is the better of the two and use that one. Both of them have quite a bit of end play, but the 1990 didn't seem to have very much side play.

I started taking the cap adapter off the one from the F450 and the two screws didn't want to come out. With PB Blaster and patience I got one out, but the other refused to budge. I was using my 12v Ridgid impact, which is pretty gentle, but after fussing with it for quite a while I got my mid-sized 18v impact - and the head came right off the screw.

That let me get the cap off and a small pair of Vise Grips on it, but it still doesn't want to budge. So I put more PB Blaster on and set it back to let that work.

Then I took the 1990 one apart and discovered why it didn't have much play - it was varnished top to bottom. Once I cleaned the shaft and the bushings I found .030" side play at the bottom, which feels like a lot. So I started thinking about replacing the bushings, o-ring, cap, rotor, etc. And, of course, the $28 seal I have on order.

But, then I looked at Rock Auto and a CARDONE 842886 new distributor with cap, rotor, o-ring, etc is $89 with no core needed. I suspect a new dizzy will be tighter than one I rebuild, so this sounds promising.

However, I also sent Scotty a note asking if he sells distributors for the EFI engines, and would rather buy from him.

In any event, I think I'm out of the dizzy rebuilding business.

[85lebaront2]

Well, things didn't go swimmingly on the distributor front today. I have two, one from the 1990 F250 and one from a '95 F450, and my plan was to take them apart and determine which is the better of the two and use that one. Both of them have quite a bit of end play, but the 1990 didn't seem to have very much side play.

I started taking the cap adapter off the one from the F450 and the two screws didn't want to come out. With PB Blaster and patience I got one out, but the other refused to budge. I was using my 12v Ridgid impact, which is pretty gentle, but after fussing with it for quite a while I got my mid-sized 18v impact - and the head came right off the screw.

That let me get the cap off and a small pair of Vise Grips on it, but it still doesn't want to budge. So I put more PB Blaster on and set it back to let that work.

Then I took the 1990 one apart and discovered why it didn't have much play - it was varnished top to bottom. Once I cleaned the shaft and the bushings I found .030" side play at the bottom, which feels like a lot. So I started thinking about replacing the bushings, o-ring, cap, rotor, etc. And, of course, the $28 seal I have on order.

But, then I looked at Rock Auto and a CARDONE 842886 new distributor with cap, rotor, o-ring, etc is $89 with no core needed. I suspect a new dizzy will be tighter than one I rebuild, so this sounds promising.

However, I also sent Scotty a note asking if he sells distributors for the EFI engines, and would rather buy from him.

In any event, I think I'm out of the dizzy rebuilding business.

I have two extras right now, one I rebuilt and the other is disassembled waiting to be finished.

[Gary Lewis]

I have two extras right now, one I rebuilt and the other is disassembled waiting to be finished.

Want a couple more? For $89 I'm not going to mess with it.

Now, here's something strange:

• Cardone 842886 @ Summit: $89

• Cardone 842886 @ Rock Auto: $89

• Cardone 842886 @ O'Reilly's: $207

[Gary Lewis]

Want a couple more? For $89 I'm not going to mess with it.Now, here's something strange:

• Cardone 842886 @ Summit: $89

• Cardone 842886 @ Rock Auto: $89

• Cardone 842886 @ O'Reilly's: $207

Bill and I've been having an email discussion that I want to document here.

 

Most of this discussion is regarding the mass air flow sensor. And to that Bill said "I am using the F8LF-AA on Darth, I think the F5OF-AA was the one that went lean when it got hot."

 

In addition we talked about the CFM capabilities of the MAF sensors. I'm assuming that the stated CFM of the MAF sensors is just what they flow at 5.00 volts. But at 90mm, which is what the MAF sensor I have measures, I'm betting they'll flow far more than 540 CFM for the F5OF. Does anyone know?

 

In addition Bill added "BTW, I just found the picture I was looking for, (cold air) duct is F3TE-9A675-BB, upper radiator hose is F5TA-8B274-VC, and F6TE-9600-HB is the air filter housing." As it turns out those are the things I have, save for maybe the upper radiator hose, which is F5TZ 8260-A, and it fits perfectly w/o the hump.

 

As you've seen, I asked the engine builder, Scotty, what he would recommend for a MAF sensor, and he doesn't have a recommendation.

 

Last, here's Bill's spreadsheet that shows several of the sensors, their output at various flow rates, and then a chart showing their rates together. The output voltages & flow rates have to be put into the ECU so it knows what sensor it is working with.

 

[85lebaront2]

Bill and I've been having an email discussion that I want to document here.

 

Most of this discussion is regarding the mass air flow sensor. And to that Bill said "I am using the F8LF-AA on Darth, I think the F5OF-AA was the one that went lean when it got hot."

 

In addition we talked about the CFM capabilities of the MAF sensors. I'm assuming that the stated CFM of the MAF sensors is just what they flow at 5.00 volts. But at 90mm, which is what the MAF sensor I have measures, I'm betting they'll flow far more than 540 CFM for the F5OF. Does anyone know?

 

In addition Bill added "BTW, I just found the picture I was looking for, (cold air) duct is F3TE-9A675-BB, upper radiator hose is F5TA-8B274-VC, and F6TE-9600-HB is the air filter housing." As it turns out those are the things I have, save for maybe the upper radiator hose, which is F5TZ 8260-A, and it fits perfectly w/o the hump.

 

As you've seen, I asked the engine builder, Scotty, what he would recommend for a MAF sensor, and he doesn't have a recommendation.

 

Last, here's Bill's spreadsheet that shows several of the sensors, their output at various flow rates, and then a chart showing their rates together. The output voltages & flow rates have to be put into the ECU so it knows what sensor it is working with.

 

Gary, the CFM is a calculated value based on the lbs/min at a specified temperature. The hotter the air the lower the lbs/min will actually be. I believe I got the information on the two 1995 MAFs (Lincoln and F series 460) from the big diagnostic books (the ones I will send you for scanning when I find a passing elephant headed West). The 1999 Lincoln Navigator was a V10 engine and I have one here I am going to get the information from, a 2003 E250 5.4L so if it is different we will have 5 to compare. The F1TE is a Windsor 80mm from probably a 302 or 351 truck. As you can see, dropping 10mm in OD does reduce the flow, this is why I tell people on FB trying to do an MAF conversion on a 460 (a) it needs a 90mm MAF and (b) if it has an E4OD, either an EEC for an E4OD or a stand alone transmission controller.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, the CFM is a calculated value based on the lbs/min at a specified temperature. The hotter the air the lower the lbs/min will actually be. I believe I got the information on the two 1995 MAFs (Lincoln and F series 460) from the big diagnostic books (the ones I will send you for scanning when I find a passing elephant headed West). The 1999 Lincoln Navigator was a V10 engine and I have one here I am going to get the information from, a 2003 E250 5.4L so if it is different we will have 5 to compare. The F1TE is a Windsor 80mm from probably a 302 or 351 truck. As you can see, dropping 10mm in OD does reduce the flow, this is why I tell people on FB trying to do an MAF conversion on a 460 (a) it needs a 90mm MAF and (b) if it has an E4OD, either an EEC for an E4OD or a stand alone transmission controller.

Bill - I can always update the s/s and it'll show up here. So send me whatever info you get.

As for the passing elephant, a 2015 F150 wearing Blue Jeans will show up in Charleston in March. Is that big enough? Are you going to be down that way any time soon?

Anyway, I'm not looking for the absolute maximum power. I want the truck to be strong, but be maintainable by my kids. So I think I want to put the specs into the ECU for a stock MAF sensor and be able to tell the kids it is a '96 CA-spec engine. That way they can get parts for it off the shelf and not have to worry about the ECU not matching. Does that make sense?

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I can always update the s/s and it'll show up here. So send me whatever info you get.

As for the passing elephant, a 2015 F150 wearing Blue Jeans will show up in Charleston in March. Is that big enough? Are you going to be down that way any time soon?

Anyway, I'm not looking for the absolute maximum power. I want the truck to be strong, but be maintainable by my kids. So I think I want to put the specs into the ECU for a stock MAF sensor and be able to tell the kids it is a '96 CA-spec engine. That way they can get parts for it off the shelf and not have to worry about the ECU not matching. Does that make sense?

Yes, that is where I am with Darth. Once everything is working the way I want it, I will flash a second EEC as a backup and on any kind of long trip, EEC, spare TFI module on heat sink as those are two that will leave me dead in the water.

Charleston, I would love to, I have an open invitation for free tour of the Hunley project (they had a group at the Monitor Center when we drilled through the turret) and we were told to simply make ourselves know if we were in the area.