Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I was told every 4WD will cup do to the way the front axle steering pivots. I have seen street radials cupping on them. Mud tires or aggressive tread patterns are worse. So it is possible that it started with the PO. Do you know how many miles are on the tires total? And I am not sure if a better posi, Detroit etc. would make it worse, not being a limited slip with clutches. But most don't use those in the front axle.

If I remember one of your previous posts you said you chalked the tires to get the air pressure correct. That definitely needs to be done. I always used a piece of cardboard and read the pattern. You could tell how deep the tread was on the cardboard. On my 35 Gumbo Mudders on 10 inch wide rims I used to run. I ran the rear at 15 and the front a 20 to get the tire patch correct. Made a world of difference in the mileage I got out of them. After the first several sets of wearing out entirely to quick. I went to 12.50 x 33 x 16.5 Coopers all terrain and if memory serves me I ran 25 in those unless I had a trailer behind it.

I don't know how many miles the tires had on them when I got the truck. But the tread looked pretty new. However, they were fairly old at that time - at least 5 years old.

As for chalking, yes and no. The driveway to the shop doesn't get much traffic and the top layer of concrete chalks. So when I do drive over it I can easily see where the tire hits the pavement. And it has taken 35 psi in the past to get the white all the way across. So that's what I've been running.

But your idea of cardboard might provide an even better clue since not only would you see if the tread is touching, you'll see how hard. I like that and will use that tip when I get the new tires, whatever they are.

As for the diffs, the Truetrac in back doesn't come into play very often, and only when something slips, so I doubt it makes a difference. And the electrically-operated OX in front is only used in iffy situations, like going through the frozen mud puddles when we didn't know how deep they were. So it can't really have an impact on cupping.

So I'm guessing that there was some cupping started early on in the life of the tires that has gotten worse as they've aged and worn. But, when I get new tires I'll be extra careful to rotate often.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know how many miles the tires had on them when I got the truck. But the tread looked pretty new. However, they were fairly old at that time - at least 5 years old.

As for chalking, yes and no. The driveway to the shop doesn't get much traffic and the top layer of concrete chalks. So when I do drive over it I can easily see where the tire hits the pavement. And it has taken 35 psi in the past to get the white all the way across. So that's what I've been running.

But your idea of cardboard might provide an even better clue since not only would you see if the tread is touching, you'll see how hard. I like that and will use that tip when I get the new tires, whatever they are.

As for the diffs, the Truetrac in back doesn't come into play very often, and only when something slips, so I doubt it makes a difference. And the electrically-operated OX in front is only used in iffy situations, like going through the frozen mud puddles when we didn't know how deep they were. So it can't really have an impact on cupping.

So I'm guessing that there was some cupping started early on in the life of the tires that has gotten worse as they've aged and worn. But, when I get new tires I'll be extra careful to rotate often.

Well, we've entered a new phase - the long awaited EFI install. And, I must say this may not be as difficult as I thought. Looks like I'm halfway there.

Seriously though, I've pulled the carb and fuel pressure regulators and added the fuel rail, w/o injectors, upper plenum, MAF sensor, and inlet tubing. However, the inlet tubing is 3" shy of the throttle body, so I'm either missing something or have the air box in the wrong spot. But I don't think the air box is in the wrong spot as it is in the same spot it was on Huck, the 1990 F250. And the cold air inlet tube reaches the radiator support like it should.

Bill - I've tagged you 'cause you may be able to point out what I'm doing wrong right off the bat. And, I have other questions for you - keep reading.

And now for the questions for Bill - I'm ready to send you the EFI/carb adapter if you still want to use it. How 'bout the fuel pressure regulators?

[85lebaront2]

Well, we've entered a new phase - the long awaited EFI install. And, I must say this may not be as difficult as I thought. Looks like I'm halfway there.

Seriously though, I've pulled the carb and fuel pressure regulators and added the fuel rail, w/o injectors, upper plenum, MAF sensor, and inlet tubing. However, the inlet tubing is 3" shy of the throttle body, so I'm either missing something or have the air box in the wrong spot. But I don't think the air box is in the wrong spot as it is in the same spot it was on Huck, the 1990 F250. And the cold air inlet tube reaches the radiator support like it should.

Bill - I've tagged you 'cause you may be able to point out what I'm doing wrong right off the bat. And, I have other questions for you - keep reading.

And now for the questions for Bill - I'm ready to send you the EFI/carb adapter if you still want to use it. How 'bout the fuel pressure regulators?

Ok, first, here is the complete hose, etc. I got from California installed on Darth:

Here is a picture where it passes the AC compressor:

Maybe either the elbows are too short or the air box is forward of where Darth's is.

On the other, I don't have a carburetor nor a DS-II system any more. My plan is to use the existing 24Lb injectors and back off my spark table so I can break the cam in.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, first, here is the complete hose, etc. I got from California installed on Darth:

Here is a picture where it passes the AC compressor:

Maybe either the elbows are too short or the air box is forward of where Darth's is.

On the other, I don't have a carburetor nor a DS-II system any more. My plan is to use the existing 24Lb injectors and back off my spark table so I can break the cam in.

First, I think your break-in plan is easier than adding the carb, dizzy, ignition, etc. But I could ship all that to you if you wanted to go that way.

As for EFI, it looks like we have the same hoses, but let me put the pics side-by-side to tell. Yup, they seem to be the same. Maybe I do have the air box in the wrong spot?

Tomorrow can you take a measurement on where you have it? Maybe measure from the back edge of the radiator support to the front edge of the air box? And I'll do the same.

Also, what cold air inlet do you have? I have one that goes to an opening in the radiator support.

[Bruce moose4x4]

First, I think your break-in plan is easier than adding the carb, dizzy, ignition, etc. But I could ship all that to you if you wanted to go that way.

As for EFI, it looks like we have the same hoses, but let me put the pics side-by-side to tell. Yup, they seem to be the same. Maybe I do have the air box in the wrong spot?

Tomorrow can you take a measurement on where you have it? Maybe measure from the back edge of the radiator support to the front edge of the air box? And I'll do the same.

Also, what cold air inlet do you have? I have one that goes to an opening in the radiator support.

Don't mean to hijack. Not sure if you have your engine together yet Bill. I think I will use these guys on my next engine build. Haven't had a cam go down yet, in the 30 years I have been building engines. But with the oil and stuff now, who knows.

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/camking/

[Gary Lewis]

Don't mean to hijack. Not sure if you have your engine together yet Bill. I think I will use these guys on my next engine build. Haven't had a cam go down yet, in the 30 years I have been building engines. But with the oil and stuff now, who knows.

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/camking/

No prob, Bruce.

As I think about it, the 3" gap isn't an issue at all. I have the plumbing from Huck, which was a 1990 460 with SD EFI, so no MAF sensor and dual hoses to the throttle body, with a crossover in the middle. But that means I have another set of hoses that go to the throttle bodies, which I assume are the same size as mine. Given that, I should be able to find a piece of thin aluminum tubing to use for splicing part of Huck's hoses to extend the air inlet system to reach the throttle bodies.

But I have several things I need to find in order to get the system together, including the funky hose clamps that have slots in them to accept the ridges molded into the hoses. I'll be checking with Rock Auto to see if they have them, and have reached out to Shaun to see if his later MPC covers 1996/7, which are the only two years where the CA-spec 460 had MAF.

Anyone know of the part numbers?

[85lebaront2]

First, I think your break-in plan is easier than adding the carb, dizzy, ignition, etc. But I could ship all that to you if you wanted to go that way.

As for EFI, it looks like we have the same hoses, but let me put the pics side-by-side to tell. Yup, they seem to be the same. Maybe I do have the air box in the wrong spot?

Tomorrow can you take a measurement on where you have it? Maybe measure from the back edge of the radiator support to the front edge of the air box? And I'll do the same.

Also, what cold air inlet do you have? I have one that goes to an opening in the radiator support.

I have one like that also, the one with the bellows came off Big Ugly (1990 F250) the other is from a later truck at PnP in Virginia Beach. I was trying to read the PN, it looks like it starts F5TE. That is the one on Darth right now I do have a spare set of hoses for the MAF 460 so I can see if there are PNs on them.

Gary. a timing trick for you. On the TFI distributor, first, the narrow vane is #1 cylinder, second the HEP triggers on the leading edge of the vane so that is what needs to be centered on the HEP at 10° BTDC.

[85lebaront2]

Don't mean to hijack. Not sure if you have your engine together yet Bill. I think I will use these guys on my next engine build. Haven't had a cam go down yet, in the 30 years I have been building engines. But with the oil and stuff now, who knows.

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/camking/

Bruce engine has been built, cam is a Sig Erson 261021. I wanted to go the extra money for a roller cam, mainly for longevity but the engine builder wanted this one and since all I was paying for was outside machine work I deferred to him.

[salans7]

I'll be checking with Rock Auto to see if they have them, and have reached out to Shaun to see if his later MPC covers 1996/7, which are the only two years where the CA-spec 460 had MAF.

Anyone know of the part numbers?

Replied, no good news.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I have one like that also, the one with the bellows came off Big Ugly (1990 F250) the other is from a later truck at PnP in Virginia Beach. I was trying to read the PN, it looks like it starts F5TE. That is the one on Darth right now I do have a spare set of hoses for the MAF 460 so I can see if there are PNs on them.

Gary. a timing trick for you. On the TFI distributor, first, the narrow vane is #1 cylinder, second the HEP triggers on the leading edge of the vane so that is what needs to be centered on the HEP at 10° BTDC.

Bill - Don’t worry about the part numbers. I’m pretty sure I can make what I have work. But thanks anyway.

However, that trick on the dizzy is just what I needed. I’ll roll it around to #1 at 10 BTDC and swap distributors.

But, the dizzy I have is from that F450, and I’m wondering about pulling it apart and cleaning it. Thoughts?