Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, David. Both for the encouragement as well as finding the altimeter.

Here's where I am on the truck as well as some thoughts about near-term projects on it:

• Rear View Mirror & Camera System:

  The vendor, Pormido, changed their minds about coming out with a different version of their mirror system, PR998, with two sealed cameras, one for the front and one for the back. Apparently there isn't enough demand for it.

  But we did establish that using a second one of their sealed backup cameras on the front bumper and using an external switch to select the front or the rear camera to feed to the mirror would work. Or, if I can ensure that no water gets to the "front" camera that was intended to be on the inside of the windshield, I could put it in a box and mount it on the front bumper.

  Last night they were running a special on the system so I could have gotten it for $170 instead of $200 and they were willing to give me another $30 off that. In fact, I could have had it tomorrow. But the 2nd backup camera wouldn't be here for another month, and it costs $50.

  However, they are coming out with yet another backup camera system with 4K pixels instead of the 1296 of the current one, and they seem to think it'll be by year end and I can be a tester. So I think I'll wait on it and then wire up the 2nd camera by either mounting the "front" one in a box or using an external switch to a 2nd backup camera.

• Lighting:

  I have my list together to buy from Daniel Stern, but I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger. He says he's "swimming in the stuff" so there's no need to hurry.

• Fuel Injection:

  I have a few more components I need to get, like injectors, before I start this. And our son, Bret, and family are to come right after the first of the year, so I want to make sure the truck is running then as I want us to take it on a trip. Given that, I'm going to hold off for a bit to get started. Maybe in February.

Well, that's a bummer! I need y'all's help to figure out what to do on the GMRS antenna.

I got the Amphenol BNC connector in today and proceeded to install it. So I ran hot-melt glue into the connector that was on the back of the cab and stuck a string in it to use as a pull string. That let me pull the short piece of coax out from above the headliner and have a way to get it back in. So far so good.

Then I read, read, and re-read the instructions with the connector. I measured and cut the inner conductor, the inner insulator, and the outer shield to length, and then soldered the little "bullet" on the end of the inner conductor. At that point you are to push it into the connector, slide the ferrule up over the braid and crimp it on. I did.

Then I pulled out the DVM and there was no connectivity on the inner conductor from end to end. So I worked the ferrule off and discovered that the inner conductor had broken and left the bullet inside the connector. So that connector is toast.

Now the question is what to do? I could order another connector just like that one in, but it is REALLY a pain to use and I'm not confident that I can do it correctly. In fact, I don't know what I did wrong this time. And, to top it off, this connector is for a 1/2" hole and the hole I have in the truck is 5/8", so I was going to have to make small "washers" to put either side.

So, what ideas do you have? I really want to be able to remove the antenna when I'm not using it, so that means I need a pair of connectors. But even if I didn't I'd need a weatherproof feedthrough and that won't work when the antenna is already attached to the coax with a hunking PL239 on the other end.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, that's a bummer! I need y'all's help to figure out what to do on the GMRS antenna.

I got the Amphenol BNC connector in today and proceeded to install it. So I ran hot-melt glue into the connector that was on the back of the cab and stuck a string in it to use as a pull string. That let me pull the short piece of coax out from above the headliner and have a way to get it back in. So far so good.

Then I read, read, and re-read the instructions with the connector. I measured and cut the inner conductor, the inner insulator, and the outer shield to length, and then soldered the little "bullet" on the end of the inner conductor. At that point you are to push it into the connector, slide the ferrule up over the braid and crimp it on. I did.

Then I pulled out the DVM and there was no connectivity on the inner conductor from end to end. So I worked the ferrule off and discovered that the inner conductor had broken and left the bullet inside the connector. So that connector is toast.

Now the question is what to do? I could order another connector just like that one in, but it is REALLY a pain to use and I'm not confident that I can do it correctly. In fact, I don't know what I did wrong this time. And, to top it off, this connector is for a 1/2" hole and the hole I have in the truck is 5/8", so I was going to have to make small "washers" to put either side.

So, what ideas do you have? I really want to be able to remove the antenna when I'm not using it, so that means I need a pair of connectors. But even if I didn't I'd need a weatherproof feedthrough and that won't work when the antenna is already attached to the coax with a hunking PL239 on the other end.

Well, I may have found a solution. Midland makes a magnetic base with a screw mount on top that accepts antennas. And it comes with a much larger RG-58 coax that I'm sure I can put a connector on.

So the idea would be to cut their PL239 connector off, feed the coax through a waterproof gland joint in the hole in the cab, pull it above the headliner into the hole at the radio, and then solder a connector on. I wouldn't be able to remove the mount easily, but it would be low profile enough that it probably wouldn't be easily seen. And I can take the antenna off of it when I want to.

Thoughts? Better ideas?

[kramttocs]

Well, I may have found a solution. Midland makes a magnetic base with a screw mount on top that accepts antennas. And it comes with a much larger RG-58 coax that I'm sure I can put a connector on.

So the idea would be to cut their PL239 connector off, feed the coax through a waterproof gland joint in the hole in the cab, pull it above the headliner into the hole at the radio, and then solder a connector on. I wouldn't be able to remove the mount easily, but it would be low profile enough that it probably wouldn't be easily seen. And I can take the antenna off of it when I want to.

Thoughts? Better ideas?

I like the magnetic base idea. Seems like adding/removing just the antenna from the base will be less prone to failure and I don't think having the base up there when the antenna is removed will be an eyesore or anything. As said, it looks pretty low profile.

[Gary Lewis]

I like the magnetic base idea. Seems like adding/removing just the antenna from the base will be less prone to failure and I don't think having the base up there when the antenna is removed will be an eyesore or anything. As said, it looks pretty low profile.

Well, I've dreamed up another option - install an SO-239 connector in the rear of the cab and use a PL-259/BNC adapter to connect the current antenna to the SO connector.

The problem I've been having has been that the coax that came on this antenna is so small that getting it into the BNC connector has been a huge problem. I've messed up several times on that because things have to be exactly right as you stuff everything inside the connector. But the SO-239 panel mount connectors are open on the back and have a center solder pin and a solder tab for the shield, which I can handle. See the pic below.

So, since I think I got the BNC connector on the antenna correctly this time, if I put an SO connector in the back of the cab and then put a PL-259-to-BNC adapter (pic on right, below) on that I can use the current antenna.

Here are some advantages/disadvantages, and I'd like your thoughts:

• Mag Mount/New Antenna: Total cost will be ~$100 as the mag mount is $29, a screw-on antenna is $50 - 60, and another PL-259 is $10ish. But I'd have options for the antenna. For instance Midland has a 6 dB gain antenna that would extend the range significantly, but it is 32" tall. Or, they have a 3 dB gain "ghost antenna" that is only 3 1/2" tall. However, in this scenario the magnetic mount doesn't come off the truck easily.

• SO-239: In this scenario the cost would be ~$20 as I could use the existing antenna, which has 2 dB of gain. And, the antenna could be taken completely off, leaving just the connector on the back of the cab. Plus, if I wanted to go with a mag-mount antenna later I could always cut the RG-58 coax of that comes with it and add a PL-259 connector to screw into the SO on the back of the cab - and still be able to take the mag mount off.

Having typed all that out I'm leaning to the SO-239 option as it is cheapest for now and still has room to grow for later. But what do y'all say?

 

[grumpin]

Well, I've dreamed up another option - install an SO-239 connector in the rear of the cab and use a PL-259/BNC adapter to connect the current antenna to the SO connector.

The problem I've been having has been that the coax that came on this antenna is so small that getting it into the BNC connector has been a huge problem. I've messed up several times on that because things have to be exactly right as you stuff everything inside the connector. But the SO-239 panel mount connectors are open on the back and have a center solder pin and a solder tab for the shield, which I can handle. See the pic below.

So, since I think I got the BNC connector on the antenna correctly this time, if I put an SO connector in the back of the cab and then put a PL-259-to-BNC adapter (pic on right, below) on that I can use the current antenna.

Here are some advantages/disadvantages, and I'd like your thoughts:

• Mag Mount/New Antenna: Total cost will be ~$100 as the mag mount is $29, a screw-on antenna is $50 - 60, and another PL-259 is $10ish. But I'd have options for the antenna. For instance Midland has a 6 dB gain antenna that would extend the range significantly, but it is 32" tall. Or, they have a 3 dB gain "ghost antenna" that is only 3 1/2" tall. However, in this scenario the magnetic mount doesn't come off the truck easily.

• SO-239: In this scenario the cost would be ~$20 as I could use the existing antenna, which has 2 dB of gain. And, the antenna could be taken completely off, leaving just the connector on the back of the cab. Plus, if I wanted to go with a mag-mount antenna later I could always cut the RG-58 coax of that comes with it and add a PL-259 connector to screw into the SO on the back of the cab - and still be able to take the mag mount off.

Having typed all that out I'm leaning to the SO-239 option as it is cheapest for now and still has room to grow for later. But what do y'all say?

I like the connector in the back of the cab.

Have you thought of mounting the antenna elsewhere? I have used one of these several times.

http://www.firestik.com/CatalogFrame.htm

Or a roof mount, which I would never do. Had one once though because the PO drilled the hole in the roof.

http://www.firestik.com/CatalogFrame.htm

Edit: Those links didn’t work. Up at the top of the page click on mounts and accessories, you’ll find hood channel and roof mounts.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I like the connector in the back of the cab.

Have you thought of mounting the antenna elsewhere? I have used one of these several times.

http://www.firestik.com/CatalogFrame.htm

Or a roof mount, which I would never do. Had one once though because the PO drilled the hole in the roof.

http://www.firestik.com/CatalogFrame.htm

Edit: Those links didn’t work. Up at the top of the page click on mounts and accessories, you’ll find hood channel and roof mounts.

Thanks, Dane. The more I think about it the more I like the connector in the back of the cab. It gives me lots of flexibility and yet it is the cheapest and easiest way forward from where I am.

In fact, when Ryan from Digi-Key gets back with me I'm going to order the weatherproof SO connector and the PL/BNC adapter. And I mention Ryan because of the excellent customer service I got today. I called Digi-Key and drew him. He asked for my customer # and we were having a good chat when the line dropped. I thought I'd see if he would call me back, and sure enough he did. He took all of the info and vowed to get me the info, and I'm sure he will.

As for mounting the antenna elsewhere, I think mid-roof is the best as it uses the roof as a ground plane and, being centered, provides an even radiation pattern. If it was mounted on the drip rail, fender, or similar it wouldn't be centered and the radiation wouldn't be even.

And I don't want to drill the roof - at all. Given everything I've read about Midland's magnetic NMO mount it apparently sticks extremely well so I don't see a need to drill the roof. However, I had the little mag-mount antenna up there for the whole trip to CO and it didn't move a bit.

[grumpin]

Thanks, Dane. The more I think about it the more I like the connector in the back of the cab. It gives me lots of flexibility and yet it is the cheapest and easiest way forward from where I am.

In fact, when Ryan from Digi-Key gets back with me I'm going to order the weatherproof SO connector and the PL/BNC adapter. And I mention Ryan because of the excellent customer service I got today. I called Digi-Key and drew him. He asked for my customer # and we were having a good chat when the line dropped. I thought I'd see if he would call me back, and sure enough he did. He took all of the info and vowed to get me the info, and I'm sure he will.

As for mounting the antenna elsewhere, I think mid-roof is the best as it uses the roof as a ground plane and, being centered, provides an even radiation pattern. If it was mounted on the drip rail, fender, or similar it wouldn't be centered and the radiation wouldn't be even.

And I don't want to drill the roof - at all. Given everything I've read about Midland's magnetic NMO mount it apparently sticks extremely well so I don't see a need to drill the roof. However, I had the little mag-mount antenna up there for the whole trip to CO and it didn't move a bit.

I agree, the hood channel and front bumper mounts I have used aren’t ideal.

The mid roof is best, but like you I cannot drill a hole in the roof. I have a Wilson 1000 mag mount for cb’s and 10 meter. Works great and good SWR’s.

I have a dual band mag mount for my VHF/UHF radios. I mounted one of the the mobile radios to a cheap cutting board I bought and carry it to whichever vehicle I’m driving.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree, the hood channel and front bumper mounts I have used aren’t ideal.

The mid roof is best, but like you I cannot drill a hole in the roof. I have a Wilson 1000 mag mount for cb’s and 10 meter. Works great and good SWR’s.

I have a dual band mag mount for my VHF/UHF radios. I mounted one of the the mobile radios to a cheap cutting board I bought and carry it to whichever vehicle I’m driving.

Drilling the hole in the back of the cab roof was torment enough. I can't drill in the middle.

Cutting board? Are you just using it when you are stopped?

The Midland NMO mag mount is wide-band, meaning it is recommended for everything from CB up through GMRS. Which is probably why it uses RG-58 instead of the little bitty coax. And the feedback I've seen says that it holds the 32" GMRS 6dB whip in place w/o movement, even when meeting semis on the highway at 70. The little mag mount antenna I have didn't move either, but it is tiny. So if the bigger mount is that solid then I'll go with it if I decide to upgrade.

Now, if Ryan from Midland will get back with me I'll get the stuff on order. Right now Big Blue has string going in the back of the cab and dangling out of the headliner.

[grumpin]

Cutting board? Are you just using it when you are stopped?

No, when I’m traveling by myself I set it on the seat next to me. The radio has a 12 volt cigar lighter plug.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Cutting board? Are you just using it when you are stopped?

No, when I’m traveling by myself I set it on the seat next to me. The radio has a 12 volt cigar lighter plug.

Ahhh! The radio is mounted on a cutting board! I thought the mag mount was.

Ok, now for an update on my quest. It has been painful, to say the least. But to cut to the chase, I just ordered one Amphenol 83-878-1003 rear mount solder terminal UHF connector, which is supposed to be an SO-239 connector, one PL-259 to BNC right-angle adapter, and one SO-239 cap. And all in, I think it was about $50.

But there was another option. Today, after 3 days of waiting, Midland got back with me. And they said I should order:

The MXTA51 includes the MXTA12 terminated with an FME connector and the removable PL259 adapter, like the MXTA24 and MXTA27. Just remove the PL259 adapter to thread the antenna cable through 3/8” or larger hole. The MXTA51 also includes a mini ¼ wave whip NMO style antenna.

That sounded pretty good as my checking showed that the gland nuts I have would pass the 3/8" FME connector, and they'll tighten down nicely on the ~1/4" thick RG58 coax. However, when I went to the Midland website it cannot find an MXTA51. And when I Google that number there are no results on the whole of the internet. So I have no idea on price and no way to order it.

I sent Midland back an email and turned to looking for the SO-239 connector to mount in the back of the cab. I decided I wanted a "rear mount" connector, meaning one that would slide through the hole in the roof from inside the cab and be secured with a nut on the outside. That's because to have a nut on the inside would mean I'd have to either drop the headliner or remove the cargo light to get a wrench in there, and I don't want to do either.

Called Digi-Key and they don't have any panel mounts that don't use 4 screws in the corners instead a nut. Called Mouser. And checked several others as well, including Amazon. But no one had what I was looking for.

Finally I found a page that give me a part number for the Amphenol connector and Googled that. Got a hit at Derf Electronics and they had the part. After finally getting to the right guy I got a price of $23 + shipping, so I bit the bullet and ordered it.

This solution is the one I've wanted with one minor issue - the Amphenol connector isn't waterproof. But it looks like the ones that are just have a rubber washer under the nut and washer, and I have one of those so I think it'll be fine. And I can use a bit of RTV as well.

But it will allow me to change out the antenna w/o going back into the headliner, so I think it is the right approach.