Big Blue's Transformation

[1986F150Six]

So, we did. We went to Bartlesville. Took the back roads up and drove 55 MPH. Found a couple of quilting shops, a place to get lunch, and then drove 55 MPH home - except for the gravel roads we found where we dropped down to 35 - 40 MPH.

And last, David will be interested in this. Haven't checked the MPG yet, but we put in over 100 miles and still haven't quite gotten down to Empty. That is certainly a new record. 55 MPH.

Yes, inquiring minds want to know!

 

[Gary Lewis]

So, we did. We went to Bartlesville. Took the back roads up and drove 55 MPH. Found a couple of quilting shops, a place to get lunch, and then drove 55 MPH home - except for the gravel roads we found where we dropped down to 35 - 40 MPH.

And last, David will be interested in this. Haven't checked the MPG yet, but we put in over 100 miles and still haven't quite gotten down to Empty. That is certainly a new record. 55 MPH.

Yes, inquiring minds want to know!

David - Thought you'd want to know. Unfortunately there was a long idling session on this tank when I was checking on the leaks in the cooling system. So that'll pull the overall MPG down some. And there was a bit of around town driving yesterday as we navigated Bartlesville to find two quilt shops and a place to eat. But I have a good feeling about it and hope to fill up in the next few days to find out.

Scott - Thanks, but I believe I ordered the little brother of that one. It is the NIDAGE Wireless Endoscope for Automotive Inspection Semi-Rigid Flexible Waterproof 5.5MM WiFi Borescope. The one you mentioned, Wireless Endoscope, NIDAGE 5.5mm 2MP WiFi Borescope 1080P HD Semi-Rigid Snake Camera for iPhone Android, Tablet, Motor Engine Sewer Pipe Vehicle Inspection Camera(11.5FT) is longer and has better video spec's, but is a bit more money. So I went for cheaper and shorter.

We shall see how it works as it is due in on Sunday. Maybe I can use it that afternoon.

[Machspeed]

Well, I was going to put this in the WHYDTYTT thread as it was initially just how we used Big Blue today. And then when we got home and I started to close the rear window. As I grabbed the hinge to pull the driver's side slider to the middle the metal strip came off in my hand.

So now the question is what's the best way to re-attach that strip to the glass? Can I use JB Weld? Seam sealer? What?

Gary, I used some stuff when I replaced my window glass that, I think, would be ideal for this repair. When I get off work tonight, I'll check that and send you a pic.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I was going to put this in the WHYDTYTT thread as it was initially just how we used Big Blue today. And then when we got home and I started to close the rear window. As I grabbed the hinge to pull the driver's side slider to the middle the metal strip came off in my hand.

So now the question is what's the best way to re-attach that strip to the glass? Can I use JB Weld? Seam sealer? What?

Gary, I used some stuff when I replaced my window glass that, I think, would be ideal for this repair. When I get off work tonight, I'll check that and send you a pic.

John - Thanks! I'll look forward to your response, but I'm not in a huge hurry.

I just trial-fitted the metal strip and there is a piece of something on the glass that goes into a groove on the strip. But the stuff isn't sticky so the strip doesn't stay in place if you pull on it. But it will stay in place if you push it on.

JB Weld might work if I put a little strip of it in the groove and it then bonded with whatever is on the glass, which I think it would do if I pushed the strip on pretty hard to squish the JB Weld out. But that seems risky as there is little recovery from that. And I'd need to make sure the JB Weld didn't run out the bottom as it would cause a problem in the track.

Another thought is the RTV adhesive that came with dash cover. It is clear and I still have a tube of it left. I could put a bead of it in the groove and it would probably adhere to the stuff that's on the glass.

Anyway, I'll wait on your response, John. And meanwhile I'm going to be repositioning the passenger's front fender. Before leaving for CO I knew that it was just touching the door. But on the mountain there were times we couldn't get out of the passenger's door. So we moved the fender as best we could w/o taking a whole lot of things loose, and got a bit of relief.

But yesterday it gave us a problem again as the door popped when Janey opened it. So I lubed it with a chapstick and it did ok the rest of the day. Today is the day to fix that.

[ratdude747]

John - Thanks! I'll look forward to your response, but I'm not in a huge hurry.

I just trial-fitted the metal strip and there is a piece of something on the glass that goes into a groove on the strip. But the stuff isn't sticky so the strip doesn't stay in place if you pull on it. But it will stay in place if you push it on.

JB Weld might work if I put a little strip of it in the groove and it then bonded with whatever is on the glass, which I think it would do if I pushed the strip on pretty hard to squish the JB Weld out. But that seems risky as there is little recovery from that. And I'd need to make sure the JB Weld didn't run out the bottom as it would cause a problem in the track.

Another thought is the RTV adhesive that came with dash cover. It is clear and I still have a tube of it left. I could put a bead of it in the groove and it would probably adhere to the stuff that's on the glass.

Anyway, I'll wait on your response, John. And meanwhile I'm going to be repositioning the passenger's front fender. Before leaving for CO I knew that it was just touching the door. But on the mountain there were times we couldn't get out of the passenger's door. So we moved the fender as best we could w/o taking a whole lot of things loose, and got a bit of relief.

But yesterday it gave us a problem again as the door popped when Janey opened it. So I lubed it with a chapstick and it did ok the rest of the day. Today is the day to fix that.

I'd try super glue... if it's a tight place you want something thin and dries clear (so any that comes out isn't as obvious).

What was in there was probably a bit of double sided tape that went bad from age. Happens all the time.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd try super glue... if it's a tight place you want something thin and dries clear (so any that comes out isn't as obvious).

What was in there was probably a bit of double sided tape that went bad from age. Happens all the time.

That might work pretty well, Larry. Thanks. I have a tube of it laying here on the desk.

But I want to see what John comes up with before I do this as with some of the approaches there's no going back.

[kramttocs]

David - Thought you'd want to know. Unfortunately there was a long idling session on this tank when I was checking on the leaks in the cooling system. So that'll pull the overall MPG down some. And there was a bit of around town driving yesterday as we navigated Bartlesville to find two quilt shops and a place to eat. But I have a good feeling about it and hope to fill up in the next few days to find out.

Scott - Thanks, but I believe I ordered the little brother of that one. It is the NIDAGE Wireless Endoscope for Automotive Inspection Semi-Rigid Flexible Waterproof 5.5MM WiFi Borescope. The one you mentioned, Wireless Endoscope, NIDAGE 5.5mm 2MP WiFi Borescope 1080P HD Semi-Rigid Snake Camera for iPhone Android, Tablet, Motor Engine Sewer Pipe Vehicle Inspection Camera(11.5FT) is longer and has better video spec's, but is a bit more money. So I went for cheaper and shorter.

We shall see how it works as it is due in on Sunday. Maybe I can use it that afternoon.

Just looked at that one and the one Dane mentioned. Those look really good and have come a long ways since I bought my cheap (price and quality) eBay one a few years ago. It was usb, poor quality, and kind of a pain to deal with.

Looking forward to the review on this one as I have been wanting to inspect my french drain.

[Gary Lewis]

Just looked at that one and the one Dane mentioned. Those look really good and have come a long ways since I bought my cheap (price and quality) eBay one a few years ago. It was usb, poor quality, and kind of a pain to deal with.

Looking forward to the review on this one as I have been wanting to inspect my french drain.

Oops! It was Dane that suggested that one.

Sorry, Dane. And thanks!

Yes, I'll provide a report. Probably not Sunday as even if it comes in then we have an event at church that evening, so it might be Monday.

[Gary Lewis]

Oops! It was Dane that suggested that one.

Sorry, Dane. And thanks!

Yes, I'll provide a report. Probably not Sunday as even if it comes in then we have an event at church that evening, so it might be Monday.

Ok, got a bit done today. All little stuff, but enough little stuff adds up.

First, I checked for coolant leaks after yesterday's trip, and found none. No wet spots on the radiator support, no puddles on the floor, and no marks on the fender liner. But as I expected the coolant in the reservoir was down just a bit, surely 'cause I hadn't really gotten the system completely full after draining and refilling to replace the petcock. So I'm claiming that the cooling system is done.

Then I decided it was time to adjust the passenger's fender to clear the door. That turned out to be fairly easy once I got all the fasteners loose, but some of them weren't really interested in coming loose. They will next time. Anyway, once I finally got them all loose the fender was easy to move forward a bit.

And while doing that I remembered that the driver's fender was kicked out at the bottom, so I loosened the bolt at the bottom - with great difficulty. It took a lot of PB Blaster and working it back and forth to get it out w/o tearing things up. But it'll come out nicely next time. And the fender is tucked in.

But, that got me to looking at the hood. Its shut lines were way off, so I adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted. But couldn't get it to line up correctly with the fenders. Then I discovered that the hood latch was forcing the front of the hood to the driver's side when the hood closed. And when I adjusted the latch the hood fit nicely.

However, I also realized that the rubber bumpers that go in slots toward the front of the fenders were missing. Sure enough, Vernon sent some new ones and I installed those. So now the hood shuts nicely and the fenders are fairly well lined up and miss the doors.

But along the way I discovered that the passenger's side turn signal socket and bulb were laying in the radiator support. Turns out it didn't have the foam donut which provides tension on it, and w/o the donut it can work its way out. So I found a couple of donuts and put one on. Then I tried to install the thing from the back side. After about 30 minutes I finally gave up - with lots of marks on my arm from the radiator support.

So I pulled the headlight door, which wasn't all that difficult, and put the bulb and socket in. But just before replacing the headlight door I decided to check the bulb - both filaments were out. So I replaced it with another 1157, checked that it all worked, and replaced the headlight door.

Hmmm, wonder if both filaments on the driver's side are good? Nope! So I pulled that headlight door and went to the stash for another 1157 and discovered I am out. But, there were several 1157 LED replacements, so I grabbed one of them and stuck it in. Didn't work on Park but did on Turn.

Long story short, I cleaned the socket and that didn't help. I got another LED bulb and it worked on Turn and but would only come on for Park as the bulb was part way in. This seemed like a ground problem but the ground spring was grounded and sticking out. I bent it some to get more tension against the bulb, to no avail.

Back to the light bulb bin and there were two other LED 1157 replacements. Odd bulbs in that one terminal lights the side chips and the other lights the end chips. But both of them worked perfectly in the socket.

So, several little things got done. But even though they were little things, it feels like progress.

[Machspeed]

That might work pretty well, Larry. Thanks. I have a tube of it laying here on the desk.

But I want to see what John comes up with before I do this as with some of the approaches there's no going back.

Gary, this is what I used to secure my door glass to the lift track. Great stuff and I wouldn't hesitate to use it for your need, as it is specific for glass adhesion.