Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Here is something I noticed other day. Walter had been under carport while the rains came through last week - over 6" of rain. Figured he'd be better covered than the 2021 Kona I drive. BUT, with 90 degree days, when I rolled him out of the carport, the AC cooled the cab much quicker than when he sits in the sun.

Even when he sits in sun, the cab usually cools enough to turn air dwn before I get home in the evenings. I like COLD, so it would be better for others I'm sure.

But like you, I also notice the difference in blower output. Even told my wife I wished I had the blower from the Kona in the truck.

I did see on Vice Grip Garage where he was working on his old caddy that his squirrel cage had chipped vanes and he remarked it would affect the airflow, but it can be hard to find those parts. Makes me wonder... I have not looked at mine.

I also noticed this week that my truck seems to run hotter with the AC off. Clutch fan doing it's clutchy thing? I will be keeping an eye on the temps. I have been checking with an IR gun thermometer from HF - it's not getting over 200 while running anywhere but the ehxh manifolds.

Since the A/C system in BB is from Huck, the '90 half truck, it is a slightly different motor than the Bullnose motor. But in reality they look pretty much the same.

The squirrel cage is not chipped, and I lubed the bearings while I had the motor out. So I'm pretty sure it is doing all it was designed to do.

But out of curiosity I just called around to five different motor/generator rewinding places in the Tulsa area. And none of them think it is something they could do - at least not for a reasonable price as one place said it would be in the $400 - 500 range to do it. So I'll be living with it.

[rcarlisle]

Since the A/C system in BB is from Huck, the '90 half truck, it is a slightly different motor than the Bullnose motor. But in reality they look pretty much the same.

The squirrel cage is not chipped, and I lubed the bearings while I had the motor out. So I'm pretty sure it is doing all it was designed to do.

But out of curiosity I just called around to five different motor/generator rewinding places in the Tulsa area. And none of them think it is something they could do - at least not for a reasonable price as one place said it would be in the $400 - 500 range to do it. So I'll be living with it.

Yeah I can be a little uncomfortable to save $400. And mine isn't bad so long as I have the cold air hitting me, cooling me (people), then the air in cab.

I asked my wife if she thought it was generally cooler in the 80s, before global warming and all that. Other than the hair and fashions, we're not sure.

[1986F150Six]

Yeah I can be a little uncomfortable to save $400. And mine isn't bad so long as I have the cold air hitting me, cooling me (people), then the air in cab.

I asked my wife if she thought it was generally cooler in the 80s, before global warming and all that. Other than the hair and fashions, we're not sure.

Gary, you have the relay for power, but have you checked the ground?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, you have the relay for power, but have you checked the ground?

Yes, I checked the ground. It isn't via a relay, but its voltage stays really close to zero volts, so it seems to be working well.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I checked the ground. It isn't via a relay, but its voltage stays really close to zero volts, so it seems to be working well.

Well, it has been an interesting, and somewhat frustrating, day. John will remember asking why the blue LED on the dash was blinking, and I explained that as I exited the truck the other day I apparently pushed the Lock button on the key fob. But then I decided to pop the hood, and as soon as I did the alarm sounded. And the LED has been blinking two flashes even when not armed to tell me the system had been compromised.

So today I decided I'd fix that. And nothing I did with the key fob helped. So I pulled out the owner's manual - and read it several times. Nada. Then I pulled out the installation manual and read it several times. Nada.

Hmmm, maybe I have a switch that is hung up and not opening or closing as it should. So I started testing, and got strange results. Sometimes the alarm would sound if I opened a door or the toolbox lids after setting the alarm. And sometimes it wouldn't.

So I called Code Alarm. Turns out there are undocumented features:

• Reset: Just turn the key on and then off and it resets the flashing LED

• Timer: There's a 5-second timer that starts when you push the button and all the switches are closed. If you open a door w/in that time the alarm doesn't sound. And the timer doesn't start again until you close that door.

So, there was no problem - other than the manufacturer didn't tell me everything in the manuals, plural.

[grumpin]

Well, it has been an interesting, and somewhat frustrating, day. John will remember asking why the blue LED on the dash was blinking, and I explained that as I exited the truck the other day I apparently pushed the Lock button on the key fob. But then I decided to pop the hood, and as soon as I did the alarm sounded. And the LED has been blinking two flashes even when not armed to tell me the system had been compromised.

So today I decided I'd fix that. And nothing I did with the key fob helped. So I pulled out the owner's manual - and read it several times. Nada. Then I pulled out the installation manual and read it several times. Nada.

Hmmm, maybe I have a switch that is hung up and not opening or closing as it should. So I started testing, and got strange results. Sometimes the alarm would sound if I opened a door or the toolbox lids after setting the alarm. And sometimes it wouldn't.

So I called Code Alarm. Turns out there are undocumented features:

• Reset: Just turn the key on and then off and it resets the flashing LED

• Timer: There's a 5-second timer that starts when you push the button and all the switches are closed. If you open a door w/in that time the alarm doesn't sound. And the timer doesn't start again until you close that door.

So, there was no problem - other than the manufacturer didn't tell me everything in the manuals, plural.

Information is a good thing.

Glad you did get it sorted out.

[Gary Lewis]

Information is a good thing.

Glad you did get it sorted out.

Yes, information is a good thing. But it is better to have it up front than to have to call the tech to learn it. I can't believe that Code Alarm didn't put either bit in the owner's manual.

That certainly taints my opinion of them. If I were to buy again I wouldn't buy their stuff. There are too many other manufacturers of automotive security systems to go with one that doesn't provide basic information about their equipment.

[grumpin]

Yes, information is a good thing. But it is better to have it up front than to have to call the tech to learn it. I can't believe that Code Alarm didn't put either bit in the owner's manual.

That certainly taints my opinion of them. If I were to buy again I wouldn't buy their stuff. There are too many other manufacturers of automotive security systems to go with one that doesn't provide basic information about their equipment.

I agree. That’s what I was hinting at.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree. That’s what I was hinting at.

I guess we are on the same page, Dane.

Not doing anything with Big Blue at the mo as I'm getting ready for the show. But the spindle for the bumper's swing arm came in today so I just had to take a pic. Maybe after the trip to CO I can get started on the bumper.

Was just thinking that if I had the material I could mount the tow eyes and level them. Then bend and mount the 2 x 3 angle that attaches to the bottom of the frame, and tack it to the tow eyes. Maybe then lay the cross piece in that anchors the front of the receiver and tack it.

At that point I can measure the position of the openings on the tubing that will be the bumper and cut them out. Slip the bumper on and tack it in place. And slip the receiver in place and tack it.

Then it can come off to be welded up!

[Gary Lewis]

I guess we are on the same page, Dane.

Not doing anything with Big Blue at the mo as I'm getting ready for the show. But the spindle for the bumper's swing arm came in today so I just had to take a pic. Maybe after the trip to CO I can get started on the bumper.

Was just thinking that if I had the material I could mount the tow eyes and level them. Then bend and mount the 2 x 3 angle that attaches to the bottom of the frame, and tack it to the tow eyes. Maybe then lay the cross piece in that anchors the front of the receiver and tack it.

At that point I can measure the position of the openings on the tubing that will be the bumper and cut them out. Slip the bumper on and tack it in place. And slip the receiver in place and tack it.

Then it can come off to be welded up!

One other thing - I got the FCC license today for the GMRS radio. So I'm legal.

Having said that, the process wasn't the easiest, most intuitive one I've ever used. But, I guess since it is a government site I should have expected that.

What's interesting in this is that the license says it applies to my "immediate family". But there is no definition that I can find on that site for that term. However, this site says that "Immediate family refers to a person’s parents, siblings, spouse, child by blood, adoption or marriage, grandparents and grandchildren." So if that's the appropriate definition then the license covers my brother as well.