Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I'm back to where I can reply, and I'm going to try and get a new phone tomorrow (if the storm doesn't interfere)

Plan D does start to make up for the depth you lose from the existing hitch.

The cut on the left is not going to get you back to horizontal, it's going to double the pitch of the first pie slice.

It's the dimension from where the bolt is through the frame to the very bottom that counts with current hitch.

The bolts act in shear for tugging loads but in tension for tongue weight and other vertical loads.

So the full lever arm is from the ball, but the resistance is from the rear bolt to the front bolt.

Having that bolt forward makes a big difference.

Welcome back, Kotter! Hope you get the new phone tomorrow.

I'm glad you raised the issue of leverage as I'd overlooked that. I think Plan D is going to work nicely.

And you are right, I did draw the cut for the forward angle incorrectly. TurboCAD tells me that a 1/16" opening at the end will get the angle I need, so it looks like just running the bandsaw blade down it will do the trick. Then we can bend it and weld it back up.

As for what I did today, after running errands this morning I got Big Blue ready for his outing tomorrow. We are headed to the grand opening of Okie Overland & 4WD Parts. The former is having the grand opening, and I'm going to put up flyers in both places.

So I added 1/2 a can of refrigerant to the A/C system 'cause it was down a bit. It seemed to be cooling fairly well, but the pressures were down and there was no condensation dripping out. But when I got done there was condensation pouring out. Anyway, the new hose assembly came in today and BB goes back into the shop on Wednesday to have it installed.

And then, with a bit of time left I decided to bore out the other tow eye. Oddly enough I had to remove the same amount of material on this one to get the hole round. And apparently the process they used, which I think was plasma, hardened the material in some places. I say that because the sound varied significantly as the boring bar went through the hole.

Anyway, here are the two holes after I ran a flap wheel/cylinder through them. I think they'll do.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome back, Kotter! Hope you get the new phone tomorrow.

I'm glad you raised the issue of leverage as I'd overlooked that. I think Plan D is going to work nicely.

And you are right, I did draw the cut for the forward angle incorrectly. TurboCAD tells me that a 1/16" opening at the end will get the angle I need, so it looks like just running the bandsaw blade down it will do the trick. Then we can bend it and weld it back up.

As for what I did today, after running errands this morning I got Big Blue ready for his outing tomorrow. We are headed to the grand opening of Okie Overland & 4WD Parts. The former is having the grand opening, and I'm going to put up flyers in both places.

So I added 1/2 a can of refrigerant to the A/C system 'cause it was down a bit. It seemed to be cooling fairly well, but the pressures were down and there was no condensation dripping out. But when I got done there was condensation pouring out. Anyway, the new hose assembly came in today and BB goes back into the shop on Wednesday to have it installed.

And then, with a bit of time left I decided to bore out the other tow eye. Oddly enough I had to remove the same amount of material on this one to get the hole round. And apparently the process they used, which I think was plasma, hardened the material in some places. I say that because the sound varied significantly as the boring bar went through the hole.

Anyway, here are the two holes after I ran a flap wheel/cylinder through them. I think they'll do.

I don't understand why you're worried about surface finish of a hole that is only going to see a recovery shackle.

The slag or hardness is one of the reasons I suggested waterjet, and not plasma.

Since you don't know exactly what you might have to run through those eyes I might suggest chamfering or radiusing the edges of those holes before you start adding other pieces to the 1" plate.

It also might be a good idea to get a couple of shackles that fit when you visit Okie Overland for their opening.

You cement a customer relationship, and you tic another box off your trip checklist.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't understand why you're worried about surface finish of a hole that is only going to see a recovery shackle.

The slag or hardness is one of the reasons I suggested waterjet, and not plasma.

Since you don't know exactly what you might have to run through those eyes I might suggest chamfering or radiusing the edges of those holes before you start adding other pieces to the 1" plate.

It also might be a good idea to get a couple of shackles that fit when you visit Okie Overland for their opening.

You cement a customer relationship, and you tic another box off your trip checklist.

I'm not too worried about the surface finish, but wanted the hole round. It was intuitively obvious to the casual observer that the holes weren't round, and Scott quickly pointed that out when he brought the pieces. So I've been wondering what the best way was to make them round and decided using the boring bar in the mill was best.

And I agree about chamfering the holes. In fact that's what I was doing when I wound up smoothing the bores, although you can't really tell that in the picture. I have some flap cylinders that are just a bit larger than the holes, so I forced one in, spun it up, and then pushed it down into the holes. That chamfered the holes a bit and also smoothed them up inside, but it wouldn't hurt to hit them again.

As for the shackles, I have one that I tried in the tow eyes earlier today, and it fit nicely. But I like your idea of buying some new ones from Okie Overland.

Last, I've seen a lot of vehicles around that have the shackles always mounted to the tow eyes, but I wonder how often they get stolen? And, don't they rattle?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not too worried about the surface finish, but wanted the hole round. It was intuitively obvious to the casual observer that the holes weren't round, and Scott quickly pointed that out when he brought the pieces. So I've been wondering what the best way was to make them round and decided using the boring bar in the mill was best.

And I agree about chamfering the holes. In fact that's what I was doing when I wound up smoothing the bores, although you can't really tell that in the picture. I have some flap cylinders that are just a bit larger than the holes, so I forced one in, spun it up, and then pushed it down into the holes. That chamfered the holes a bit and also smoothed them up inside, but it wouldn't hurt to hit them again.

As for the shackles, I have one that I tried in the tow eyes earlier today, and it fit nicely. But I like your idea of buying some new ones from Okie Overland.

Last, I've seen a lot of vehicles around that have the shackles always mounted to the tow eyes, but I wonder how often they get stolen? And, don't they rattle?

I don't know how often they get stolen, but surely they rattle.

Good ones certainly aren't cheap!

I think I more often see them left in place on posers trucks/Jeeps that are never going through a puddle let alone hardcore off road. (at least up in this corner of the country)

Much the same with blinding light bars across the hood or mounted as a visor.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know how often they get stolen, but surely they rattle.

Good ones certainly aren't cheap!

I think I more often see them left in place on posers trucks/Jeeps that are never going through a puddle let alone hardcore off road. (at least up in this corner of the country)

Much the same with blinding light bars across the hood or mounted as a visor.

Yep, that's what I'm thinking as well. Easily stolen and surely rattle. So why not keep them in the kit bag with the chain?

Speaking of that, I have one bag with chain, shackle, pulley, etc. And I can barely lift it out of the toolbox. I think I'll pick up another bag like it tomorrow at 4WD Parts and split things up.

As for light bars across the roof, don't get me started! What a good way to wash out all of the shadows showing where the dips are. And what a wonderful way to get blinded in snow or fog. I think I'm happy with the fog lights on the bumper.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Yep, that's what I'm thinking as well. Easily stolen and surely rattle. So why not keep them in the kit bag with the chain?

Speaking of that, I have one bag with chain, shackle, pulley, etc. And I can barely lift it out of the toolbox. I think I'll pick up another bag like it tomorrow at 4WD Parts and split things up.

As for light bars across the roof, don't get me started! What a good way to wash out all of the shadows showing where the dips are. And what a wonderful way to get blinded in snow or fog. I think I'm happy with the fog lights on the bumper.

Most of the people that leave them on are using a shackle cover or isolator, But the pin hole needs to be a close fit to keep the pin from rattling.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-11235-31-D-Ring-Isolator/dp/B01MDTRKN6/ref=asc_df_B01MDTRKN6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241933929248&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3289224303779950626&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023810&hvtargid=pla-583775182016&psc=1

Gary, Most people now are going to a Soft Shackle, You might check them out. I haven't bought one yet but As of now I don't really have anything to wheel.

[Nothing Special]

Most of the people that leave them on are using a shackle cover or isolator, But the pin hole needs to be a close fit to keep the pin from rattling.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-11235-31-D-Ring-Isolator/dp/B01MDTRKN6/ref=asc_df_B01MDTRKN6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241933929248&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3289224303779950626&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023810&hvtargid=pla-583775182016&psc=1

Gary, Most people now are going to a Soft Shackle, You might check them out. I haven't bought one yet but As of now I don't really have anything to wheel.

I was going to mention soft shackles as well, but Bruce beat me to it. I haven't got one yest either, but people who use shackles a lot seem to be switching to them exclusively.

They have the advantages of being lighter, easier to pack, they allow you to connect to more things than a bow shackle ever could, and they don't become a deadly projectile if something comes loose. I've even seen a couple of synthetic winch ropes that are made into a soft shackle at the end rather than have any metal involved.

One downside to soft shackles is that they can be cut, so if you plan to go with soft shackles you'd be better off radiusing the corners of the holes rather than chamfering them.

Back to hard shackles, I generally keep mine in the tub that holds the tree saver, the winch controller, the leather gloves and the snatch strap. But if I put one on the bumper tabs I generally leave it there until I need to take it off, or I'm done 'wheeling. I'm not overly worried about them getting stolen off the bumper (heck, the tub with all that stuff is in an unlocked Bronco with a soft top). And I don't think I could hear them rattling over the noise my tailgate makes! I'm just lazy and leave them where they are until I need them somewhere else.

[salans7]

I was going to mention soft shackles as well, but Bruce beat me to it. I haven't got one yest either, but people who use shackles a lot seem to be switching to them exclusively.

They have the advantages of being lighter, easier to pack, they allow you to connect to more things than a bow shackle ever could, and they don't become a deadly projectile if something comes loose. I've even seen a couple of synthetic winch ropes that are made into a soft shackle at the end rather than have any metal involved.

One downside to soft shackles is that they can be cut, so if you plan to go with soft shackles you'd be better off radiusing the corners of the holes rather than chamfering them.

Back to hard shackles, I generally keep mine in the tub that holds the tree saver, the winch controller, the leather gloves and the snatch strap. But if I put one on the bumper tabs I generally leave it there until I need to take it off, or I'm done 'wheeling. I'm not overly worried about them getting stolen off the bumper (heck, the tub with all that stuff is in an unlocked Bronco with a soft top). And I don't think I could hear them rattling over the noise my tailgate makes! I'm just lazy and leave them where they are until I need them somewhere else.

I use my shackles often enough out on the ranch that I leave them on full-time. They came with rubber "washers" that keep them tight in place and they don't rattle, even after three years of being on there. I don't worry about them being stolen because they're cheap enough and easy to find, plus I keep an extra set in the toolbox.

[Gary Lewis]

I use my shackles often enough out on the ranch that I leave them on full-time. They came with rubber "washers" that keep them tight in place and they don't rattle, even after three years of being on there. I don't worry about them being stolen because they're cheap enough and easy to find, plus I keep an extra set in the toolbox.

Thanks, guys. When Scott and I went to the overlanding event back in the spring they discussed soft shackles. And the thinking was that they are better as they are lighter so if something breaks you won't have that heavy weight coming back at you.

However, from what I've read they do suffer from being cut so Bob is right, if I were to use a soft shackle on the tow eyes they would have to be seriously radiused and I don't have a good way of doing that.

But from what I've read a hard shackle is one of the strongest components of the recovery line so it isn't likely to break. More likely it is the recovery point itself that breaks, allowing the shackle to come back at you. But my 1" thick tow eyes that will be fastened to the frame in a number of places won't be breaking. Instead it might be the recovery point on another vehicle that could break. So while I do want my tow eyes to be smoothed as best I can, I don't see the need to use a soft shackle on them.

But I do like the idea of having at least one soft shackle to use where they can and should be used, so plan to pick one up.

As for rubber washers on hard shackles, mine didn't come with any. I'll have to look at what they have at Okie Overland today and see if they do.

Thanks, guys!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, guys. When Scott and I went to the overlanding event back in the spring they discussed soft shackles. And the thinking was that they are better as they are lighter so if something breaks you won't have that heavy weight coming back at you.

However, from what I've read they do suffer from being cut so Bob is right, if I were to use a soft shackle on the tow eyes they would have to be seriously radiused and I don't have a good way of doing that.

But from what I've read a hard shackle is one of the strongest components of the recovery line so it isn't likely to break. More likely it is the recovery point itself that breaks, allowing the shackle to come back at you. But my 1" thick tow eyes that will be fastened to the frame in a number of places won't be breaking. Instead it might be the recovery point on another vehicle that could break. So while I do want my tow eyes to be smoothed as best I can, I don't see the need to use a soft shackle on them.

But I do like the idea of having at least one soft shackle to use where they can and should be used, so plan to pick one up.

As for rubber washers on hard shackles, mine didn't come with any. I'll have to look at what they have at Okie Overland today and see if they do.

Thanks, guys!

We had a good outing today and Big Blue ran quite well. Here are the details:

Okie Overland: The place was mobbed by trucks set up for overlanding. Must have been 20 trucks there, but only about half that many people. Anyway, I talked with one of the guys about shackles, and he agreed with my thinking that on Big Blue I'll want hard shackles. But that I might want to use a soft shackle if I were to connect to another vehicle. So I bought a soft one, but they didn't have any hard shackles, so I hung up a flyer for the show and moved on.

4WD Parts: They didn't have any hard shackles with washers or o-rings, but the guy behind the counter produced an email where Smittybilt announced they are coming out with a set with both washers as well as rubber on the outer edge to prevent damage to the bumper. So I'll either wait for those or see what I can find online. But I did get the Smittybilt canvas bag so I can divide my kit up and make it easier to lift out. And, I hung up a flyer for the show.