Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, you're not going to like what you find above those wheel arches, packed down between them and the bed side.

That muck just stays wet forever.

When it is sand + salt from winter roads you can imagine how it eats away at a spot that will never get paint.

Sorry you're still having teething problems with the roller cover.

At least Pace Edwards is willing to work with you, to resolve it.

With the cover deployed are you able to try shifting it back and forth to see where it is shimmed too tight?

Thanks, I do hope it is just teething problems. But Pace Edwards has been great to work with.

As for moving it back and forth to check the shimming, I've not tried that - yet. But once I get the end caps in I'll do a whole lot more checking. And, I'll lube it with the spray graphite that John recommended.

On the wheel arches, I really thought I had them clean. But there are certain sight lines that reveal a whole lot of muck.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, I do hope it is just teething problems. But Pace Edwards has been great to work with.

As for moving it back and forth to check the shimming, I've not tried that - yet. But once I get the end caps in I'll do a whole lot more checking. And, I'll lube it with the spray graphite that John recommended.

On the wheel arches, I really thought I had them clean. But there are certain sight lines that reveal a whole lot of muck.

I'd imagine those caps are delrin or graphite impregnated nylon already.

Why would they use anything else?

I mean, they have to be self lubricating.

What's going to happen when the tracks start to wear and they get covered in aluminum oxide?

[Gary Lewis]

I'd imagine those caps are delrin or graphite impregnated nylon already.

Why would they use anything else?

I mean, they have to be self lubricating.

What's going to happen when the tracks start to wear and they get covered in aluminum oxide?

I hope they have their own lubrication. But I'll give them some more at John's suggestion.

By the way, I think I'm going to be installing a vacuum-operated heater shutoff valve teed into the Recirculate line. I've noticed that the A/C isn't getting all that cold now that I've opened up the manual shutoff valve I have installed - which I had to do 'cause the A/C was too cold. So as things heat up this summer I'll bet I'll need to install the valve and have really cold air on Max A/C.

And, speaking of coolant, I had to add a bit to the recovery reservoir today after our trip. But I see signs of the reservoir having leaked as there are dried coolant marks all around it, so I'm guessing that the lid isn't sealed tightly on this one and the terribly rough roads had it splashing out. May have to replace that reservoir - assuming new ones are sealed. Or, can the lids be taken off and resealed?

Also related to that reservoir, the washer part doesn't work. It did before I relocated it, so I need to check that out as we had opportunity to use it on the last trip.

Teething problems!

[Gary Lewis]

I hope they have their own lubrication. But I'll give them some more at John's suggestion.

By the way, I think I'm going to be installing a vacuum-operated heater shutoff valve teed into the Recirculate line. I've noticed that the A/C isn't getting all that cold now that I've opened up the manual shutoff valve I have installed - which I had to do 'cause the A/C was too cold. So as things heat up this summer I'll bet I'll need to install the valve and have really cold air on Max A/C.

And, speaking of coolant, I had to add a bit to the recovery reservoir today after our trip. But I see signs of the reservoir having leaked as there are dried coolant marks all around it, so I'm guessing that the lid isn't sealed tightly on this one and the terribly rough roads had it splashing out. May have to replace that reservoir - assuming new ones are sealed. Or, can the lids be taken off and resealed?

Also related to that reservoir, the washer part doesn't work. It did before I relocated it, so I need to check that out as we had opportunity to use it on the last trip.

Teething problems!

Ok, now on to another topic - onboard compressed air. I'm starting into that and just took the HF compressor "system" apart and started fitting it into the toolbox. And the first realization was that if I put the compressor where I'd planned, on the far right side of the toolbox then I'd be creating a problem since many of the things I put in the toolbox are heavy and getting them over/past the compressor wouldn't be easy.

So the plan now is to put the compressor in the very center and the control panel directly above it, as shown in the pics at the bottom. But that's going to make it more difficult to use the original plumbing plan. As you can see on the left, below, the hot compressed air came out of the compressor and into the tank via a piece of copper tubing. From there, after cooling a bit, it came from the tank to the control panel's manifold via a piece of plastic tubing. And then there was a piece of rubber hose going back down from the manifold to the pressure switch.

Instead I'm thinking of going from the compressor to the control panel's manifold with copper tubing. Then from the manifold to the tank via rubber hose, with a tee to the pressure switch.

While that will much easier to do it'll be less than optimum because there won't be as much cooling this way. However, this system won't be used extensively so I think this approach will work ok.

Thoughts? Better ideas? Improvements? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

And here are a couple of shots showing the compressor and the control panel positioning:

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, now on to another topic - onboard compressed air. I'm starting into that and just took the HF compressor "system" apart and started fitting it into the toolbox. And the first realization was that if I put the compressor where I'd planned, on the far right side of the toolbox then I'd be creating a problem since many of the things I put in the toolbox are heavy and getting them over/past the compressor wouldn't be easy.

So the plan now is to put the compressor in the very center and the control panel directly above it, as shown in the pics at the bottom. But that's going to make it more difficult to use the original plumbing plan. As you can see on the left, below, the hot compressed air came out of the compressor and into the tank via a piece of copper tubing. From there, after cooling a bit, it came from the tank to the control panel's manifold via a piece of plastic tubing. And then there was a piece of rubber hose going back down from the manifold to the pressure switch.

Instead I'm thinking of going from the compressor to the control panel's manifold with copper tubing. Then from the manifold to the tank via rubber hose, with a tee to the pressure switch.

While that will much easier to do it'll be less than optimum because there won't be as much cooling this way. However, this system won't be used extensively so I think this approach will work ok.

Thoughts? Better ideas? Improvements? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

And here are a couple of shots showing the compressor and the control panel positioning:

Got the compressor mounted, although it'll have to come out for the carpet to go back in. It is secured quite well, dead center in the tool box, on its rubber mounts and the shroud is also secured to the floor.

Also, the 3 cans of Fluid Film came in today, so I used most of one can in the wheel arches. Here's a pic with the hose/nozzle arrangement shoved down that opening.

I sprayed a whole bunch down the two openings in the fender, but then started feeing something hitting my head. Turns out it was blowing out the back of the opening past the fender liner. In the pic on the left you can see where it was going as I sprayed through those openings. And the pic on the right shows where I used the spray nozzle and added more. However, I see in the pic that it didn't flow down into the last bit of the seam, so I'll need to hit it again tomorrow.

 

[kramttocs]

Got the compressor mounted, although it'll have to come out for the carpet to go back in. It is secured quite well, dead center in the tool box, on its rubber mounts and the shroud is also secured to the floor.

Also, the 3 cans of Fluid Film came in today, so I used most of one can in the wheel arches. Here's a pic with the hose/nozzle arrangement shoved down that opening.

I sprayed a whole bunch down the two openings in the fender, but then started feeing something hitting my head. Turns out it was blowing out the back of the opening past the fender liner. In the pic on the left you can see where it was going as I sprayed through those openings. And the pic on the right shows where I used the spray nozzle and added more. However, I see in the pic that it didn't flow down into the last bit of the seam, so I'll need to hit it again tomorrow.

It's been awhile but I've seen mention somewhere of someone pulling the overflow tank lid to clean it all out. I believe they used GOOP to seal it. I've never looked closely but there is a gap somewhere to allow the coolant to spill over if it gets too full. So just don't seal that over.

Compressor looks good in there

Nice job on the fluid film also. Even if it didn't get the lower part (yet), looks like it had good coverage higher up. Motivating me to deep clean that area and apply mine.

[Gary Lewis]

It's been awhile but I've seen mention somewhere of someone pulling the overflow tank lid to clean it all out. I believe they used GOOP to seal it. I've never looked closely but there is a gap somewhere to allow the coolant to spill over if it gets too full. So just don't seal that over.

Compressor looks good in there

Nice job on the fluid film also. Even if it didn't get the lower part (yet), looks like it had good coverage higher up. Motivating me to deep clean that area and apply mine.

Thanks, Scott. I'll take a look for the reseal of the reservoir. But, I'm not sure I'm too worried about it getting too full as it could blow the fill plug and get out that way since it isn't a tight fit or seal.

I wonder about turning the thing upside down, cleaning the seal as best I can, and then running Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer into it. I've used that before to seal windshield leaks, and it works well. Flows like honey and gets into the leaks before setting up.

Anyway, back to the compressor install...

[kramttocs]

Thanks, Scott. I'll take a look for the reseal of the reservoir. But, I'm not sure I'm too worried about it getting too full as it could blow the fill plug and get out that way since it isn't a tight fit or seal.

I wonder about turning the thing upside down, cleaning the seal as best I can, and then running Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer into it. I've used that before to seal windshield leaks, and it works well. Flows like honey and gets into the leaks before setting up.

Anyway, back to the compressor install...

Did some searching on FTE and found that it was originally referenced in Luke's Big Blackie thread but also discussed here

 

[Gary Lewis]

Did some searching on FTE and found that it was originally referenced in Luke's Big Blackie thread but also discussed here

Thanks! Now I remember that conversation. And in it some yoyo said:

You really don't want the 85/86 reservoirs to be completely sealed as something will have to give when the radiator cap opens at 13 psi. If the top is tightly sealed then the little filler plug is going to be blown off - and lost. Plus, when it goes there will probably be coolant splashing all over everything.

I started thinking about that recently when I was cleaning the 85/86 reservoir I put in Rusty. I tried to pull the top but it really didn't want to come, so I put some of the pyramid abrasives I have for tumble polishing in and shook the goodie out of it. That did a reasonable job of cleaning it, but when I rinsed it I realized that the top wasn't sealed all the way around. Then it dawned on me that being completely sealed would be a bad thing, especially as tight as the filler plug fits on mine.

And the radiator cap opens on most drives. If the cooling system is completely filled, like these reservoirs will keep them, then the pressure goes up as the engine warms up. It'll get to 13 psi when the engine gets fully warm and everything expands, at which point the cap opens and lets the extra pressure off and coolant flows into the reservoir and the pressure is relieved. Then, as the engine cools a check valve in the cap allows coolant to flow back in and keep the cooling system full. So the reservoir should not be sealed or the cooling system can't operate properly.

But I seriously doubt he knows what he's talking about.

I wonder if there is a way to put a different cap on the 85/86 reservoirs? Something that would vent so that when the radiator cap opens there won't be any pressure in the reservoir? The filler plug is a pain to get out anyway, so if there was something to put there that vented and was easily removed maybe that would work?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks! Now I remember that conversation. And in it some yoyo said:

You really don't want the 85/86 reservoirs to be completely sealed as something will have to give when the radiator cap opens at 13 psi. If the top is tightly sealed then the little filler plug is going to be blown off - and lost. Plus, when it goes there will probably be coolant splashing all over everything.

I started thinking about that recently when I was cleaning the 85/86 reservoir I put in Rusty. I tried to pull the top but it really didn't want to come, so I put some of the pyramid abrasives I have for tumble polishing in and shook the goodie out of it. That did a reasonable job of cleaning it, but when I rinsed it I realized that the top wasn't sealed all the way around. Then it dawned on me that being completely sealed would be a bad thing, especially as tight as the filler plug fits on mine.

And the radiator cap opens on most drives. If the cooling system is completely filled, like these reservoirs will keep them, then the pressure goes up as the engine warms up. It'll get to 13 psi when the engine gets fully warm and everything expands, at which point the cap opens and lets the extra pressure off and coolant flows into the reservoir and the pressure is relieved. Then, as the engine cools a check valve in the cap allows coolant to flow back in and keep the cooling system full. So the reservoir should not be sealed or the cooling system can't operate properly.

But I seriously doubt he knows what he's talking about.

I wonder if there is a way to put a different cap on the 85/86 reservoirs? Something that would vent so that when the radiator cap opens there won't be any pressure in the reservoir? The filler plug is a pain to get out anyway, so if there was something to put there that vented and was easily removed maybe that would work?

Got the compressor out, the carpet in, and the compressor back in. Easier said than done as finding the screw holes through the carpet took some time.

Then I got the control panel installed. As you can see, it is bolted to the strut mount on the top, but that wasn't solid enough for me so I bent a piece of stainless sheet metal "angle" to serve as support at the bottom. There's plenty of tension on the angle to keep it in place, but I added rubber between it and the toolbox to ensure there's no abrasion. And that piece not only gave plenty of rigidity to the control panel, it made the strut mount a lot more solid.

And the term "solid" brings me to a question. In the pic below you can see that the compressor is mounted on rubber isolators. They are the ones it came with from the factory, so I screwed them down to the floor of the toolbox. But you can also see a piece of copper tubing in the pic. That's the original connection from the compressor to the tank. However, the tank was welded to the frame of the unit and the compressor's isolators were mounted to that frame. So the compressor was free to vibrate on its mounts, but the tank wasn't, and yet the two were connected with copper tubing.

Back in January of 2020 we had a discussion about copper tubing, coolers, air hose, etc. And the feeling at that time was that I shouldn't use copper tubing to connect things if they can move with respect to each other. And yet the factory did.

What I'm thinking of doing is to use 3/8" flexible copper tubing to make the connection from the compressor to the manifold, but coil several feet of it up and use it as a cooler. I could put the coils at the air inlet to the compressor so air would get drawn over them. And the extra length would tend to allow flex w/o breaking the tubing.

Thoughts?