Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Gary, now that I see you have the hi lift, do you have the bolt on attachment that allows you to hook onto wheels? It helps a lot on trucks with a lot of suspension travel. I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels? Everything is coming together nicely Gary, enjoy your trip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 Everything is coming together nicely Gary, enjoy your trip! Everything looks great! Really liking the documentation around the fuse panel and custom wiring diagrams. Console and mic look good as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels? If you Google hi lift jack wheel lifter you get this. I've never used one, but hooks like these are for lifting by the wheel. I've always just used the "nose" directly for lifting the bumper with no additional hooks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels? If you Google hi lift jack wheel lifter you get this. I've never used one, but hooks like these are for lifting by the wheel. I've always just used the "nose" directly for lifting the bumper with no additional hooks. In the search, I have one like the x bull. It depends what kind of wheels you have, I guess. And also how you feel comfortable using the jack. I use it on one of my IFS trucks because if I jack the body, the wheels dont move enough to get them off. And the bumpers are more rounded than the Bullnose. Just a cheap tool I keep in my recovery bag... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 I have one with a hook on it, but I thought it is for bumpers. Is there another for wheels? Not sure if you guys have seen these. They are a little expensive for my taste, but if you were doing a lot of overlanding out in the boonies. it might be worth the extra safety and expense. https://hi-lift.com/first-responder-jack/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Not sure if you guys have seen these. They are a little expensive for my taste, but if you were doing a lot of overlanding out in the boonies. it might be worth the extra safety and expense. https://hi-lift.com/first-responder-jack/ That’s cool! Bet that training is interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 That’s cool! Bet that training is interesting! I would imagine so. I would like to have one of those bases but you had to buy a conversion kit. BUT I don't go wheeling as much as I did when I was younger. So I can make do with the one I have. I had a 60 inch bar for mine but I bent it pretty bad changing a tire on a front end loader. So I went back with the standard 48 inch one. I don't run the big tires anymore either so really no need for the longer one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 I would imagine so. I would like to have one of those bases but you had to buy a conversion kit. BUT I don't go wheeling as much as I did when I was younger. So I can make do with the one I have. I had a 60 inch bar for mine but I bent it pretty bad changing a tire on a front end loader. So I went back with the standard 48 inch one. I don't run the big tires anymore either so really no need for the longer one. Ok guys, I guess I'll figure out what I ought to have for the jack to pick up the truck via a tire. Thanks. Now for a report on today's doings. First, the bed cover has been somewhat wonky, stopping at odd spots and making ugly noises. So today I did what the instructions said and pulled the cover on the canister that holds the rolled-up cover. Lo and behold there were bits of chewed up plastic in there. And on closer inspection they were from a destroyed end cap for the slats that make up the cover. The slats are aluminum extrusions that attach to each other to make the cover, and then there are end caps that fit into the slats that serve as the glides for going down the track and as gear teeth for the pinion in the canister to drive. But somehow one had obviously been destroyed. So I pulled the bed cover out of the tracks. WARNING! Do NOT do this! The cover is HEAVY and there are no hand holds. Man, that was a huge pain to get back in the track. But I did. However, I found two more damaged end caps. Given that I called Pace Edwards and talked to John, the tech. He said I probably have a dimension wrong on the rails and the cover got jammed and that let the pinion destroy the end cap. So he's sending me several end caps. That means the cover has to come back out of the tracks. But this time I'm going to make some kind of support for it to lay on at about the same height as the rail. Maybe a couple of 2 x 4's out the back of the truck will work. Also, I spent some time checking the truck over from the outing on the GOAT. Other than the hood latch bolts I've not found any other fasteners loose, although I do have more checking to do. However, I did find that my homemade rattle-stoppers had stretched or loosened due to all of the pounding, so I need to find the factory rubber isolators my nephew mentioned. Without something there to hold the springs together there's a tremendous clatter as you go down the road since the curved lower spring slams into the other spring on every bump. Anyone have an idea where to find them? Maybe Rock Auto? Also, I did check out the rear wheel wells, as Jim suggested. As you can see, below, the inner panel on the driver's side already is rusted away. The passenger's side isn't, but there's certainly rust showing at the lip. So I'll drill some holes on the passenger's side so the Fluid Film can get in there and do it up right. However, when you get at the right angle and look there is still a tremendous amount of dirt, gravel, and sand up in there. So the first thing to do is to spend more time with the hose. Then, when it dries out, I'll coat it with the black Fluid Film I ordered today 'cause the can I thought I'd use is empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 Ok guys, I guess I'll figure out what I ought to have for the jack to pick up the truck via a tire. Thanks. Now for a report on today's doings. First, the bed cover has been somewhat wonky, stopping at odd spots and making ugly noises. So today I did what the instructions said and pulled the cover on the canister that holds the rolled-up cover. Lo and behold there were bits of chewed up plastic in there. And on closer inspection they were from a destroyed end cap for the slats that make up the cover. The slats are aluminum extrusions that attach to each other to make the cover, and then there are end caps that fit into the slats that serve as the glides for going down the track and as gear teeth for the pinion in the canister to drive. But somehow one had obviously been destroyed. So I pulled the bed cover out of the tracks. WARNING! Do NOT do this! The cover is HEAVY and there are no hand holds. Man, that was a huge pain to get back in the track. But I did. However, I found two more damaged end caps. Given that I called Pace Edwards and talked to John, the tech. He said I probably have a dimension wrong on the rails and the cover got jammed and that let the pinion destroy the end cap. So he's sending me several end caps. That means the cover has to come back out of the tracks. But this time I'm going to make some kind of support for it to lay on at about the same height as the rail. Maybe a couple of 2 x 4's out the back of the truck will work. Also, I spent some time checking the truck over from the outing on the GOAT. Other than the hood latch bolts I've not found any other fasteners loose, although I do have more checking to do. However, I did find that my homemade rattle-stoppers had stretched or loosened due to all of the pounding, so I need to find the factory rubber isolators my nephew mentioned. Without something there to hold the springs together there's a tremendous clatter as you go down the road since the curved lower spring slams into the other spring on every bump. Anyone have an idea where to find them? Maybe Rock Auto? Also, I did check out the rear wheel wells, as Jim suggested. As you can see, below, the inner panel on the driver's side already is rusted away. The passenger's side isn't, but there's certainly rust showing at the lip. So I'll drill some holes on the passenger's side so the Fluid Film can get in there and do it up right. However, when you get at the right angle and look there is still a tremendous amount of dirt, gravel, and sand up in there. So the first thing to do is to spend more time with the hose. Then, when it dries out, I'll coat it with the black Fluid Film I ordered today 'cause the can I thought I'd use is empty. Yeah, you're not going to like what you find above those wheel arches, packed down between them and the bed side. That muck just stays wet forever. When it is sand + salt from winter roads you can imagine how it eats away at a spot that will never get paint. Sorry you're still having teething problems with the roller cover. At least Pace Edwards is willing to work with you, to resolve it. With the cover deployed are you able to try shifting it back and forth to see where it is shimmed too tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts