Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - There are stops and there's a current-sensing circuit that turns the motor off a few seconds after it hits the stops.

As for the rails, it looks to me like there are two problems: getting the rails leveled and then keeping the cover from hitting the toolbox. I think I can deal with the latter by shimming the toolbox, but we'll see what needs to be done when I get the rails leveled.

On leveling the rails, the clamps I have are either a wonder of engineering or just bizarre. They are the ones I've circled in red in the illustration below. And the bit that I've highlighted is a rotating joint, so as you tighten the bolt the clamp gets longer, which pulls down hard on the inside edge of the rail, which causes the rails to tilt.

I'm thinking I need the clamps I've circled in blue so I can level the rails, drill the inside lip of the bed, and clamp the rail at that point.

Let's kick this around a bit as Pace Edwards is closed for the weekend, but I think I can call them on Monday and get them to send me the other clamps as the ones they sent just don't work for this application.

Thoughts?

I see the stop bolt in the end of the rail.

I just didn't understand if the motor had a limit switch, counted steps or sensed the motor stall.

I don't think 'D' is your answer (from what I see above, in your pic of the end of the rail)

'A' perhaps, if its minimum shim distance is equal or less than what you're showing in the pic above.

'alternate style' seems like what you should be using. But I don't see where it offers any tensioning of the guide down to the side of the bed

 

[Gary Lewis]

I see the stop bolt in the end of the rail.

I just didn't understand if the motor had a limit switch, counted steps or sensed the motor stall.

I don't think 'D' is your answer (from what I see above, in your pic of the end of the rail)

'A' perhaps, if its minimum shim distance is equal or less than what you're showing in the pic above.

'alternate style' seems like what you should be using. But I don't see where it offers any tensioning of the guide down to the side of the bed

I think you are right. A goes up and D goes down and there may not be enough lip to bolt D to. Plus A gives an easy way to adjust the gap between the bed and the rail instead of using the plastic shims - of which have 1/8" in front and 1/4" in the rear on either side.

I actually have two of the A clamps, so that would be a fairly easy test. They aren't drilled on the part that goes against the bed, but that isn't an issue. I could put those two on at the tailgate end in place of the two rotating clamps and see if I can level the rails at that point.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you are right. A goes up and D goes down and there may not be enough lip to bolt D to. Plus A gives an easy way to adjust the gap between the bed and the rail instead of using the plastic shims - of which have 1/8" in front and 1/4" in the rear on either side.

I actually have two of the A clamps, so that would be a fairly easy test. They aren't drilled on the part that goes against the bed, but that isn't an issue. I could put those two on at the tailgate end in place of the two rotating clamps and see if I can level the rails at that point.

We had a funeral at church today and I just got home, too tired to work on the truck. But I did confirm that the "A" clamps appear to be the right ones for the job.

Tomorrow afternoon I hope to drill them to take a 1/4" bolt, loosen the toolbox bolts to get some clearance, and then install those two clamps in place of the "D" clamps on the driver's side rail. But I also got in the 1/2" x 1/4" closed-cell foam tape I ordered, so will put a strip of that on the inside edge of the bedside under the rail so the clamp isn't the only thing trying to support the inside edge of the rail.

[ArdWrknTrk]

We had a funeral at church today and I just got home, too tired to work on the truck. But I did confirm that the "A" clamps appear to be the right ones for the job.

Tomorrow afternoon I hope to drill them to take a 1/4" bolt, loosen the toolbox bolts to get some clearance, and then install those two clamps in place of the "D" clamps on the driver's side rail. But I also got in the 1/2" x 1/4" closed-cell foam tape I ordered, so will put a strip of that on the inside edge of the bedside under the rail so the clamp isn't the only thing trying to support the inside edge of the rail.

So the 'up' leg of the A style bracket is less that the 1/8" of shims you have now at the forward ends of the guide rails?

I'm not certain that the clamp drawing is to scale, but it doesn't appear that thin to me.

[Gary Lewis]

So the 'up' leg of the A style bracket is less that the 1/8" of shims you have now at the forward ends of the guide rails?

I'm not certain that the clamp drawing is to scale, but it doesn't appear that thin to me.

I suspect the up leg is 3/16" thick, which will mean it is too thick. But I can make it 1/8" with the mill. And if I put three of them on per side instead of two and have the 1/4" foam tape under the rail I'm hoping the combo will be plenty solid.

Or, if the height is right I might be able to put the up leg on the outside of the lip of the bed rather than on the inside. However, I'm not sure the height will be right. We shall see.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I suspect the up leg is 3/16" thick, which will mean it is too thick. But I can make it 1/8" with the mill. And if I put three of them on per side instead of two and have the 1/4" foam tape under the rail I'm hoping the combo will be plenty solid.

Or, if the height is right I might be able to put the up leg on the outside of the lip of the bed rather than on the inside. However, I'm not sure the height will be right. We shall see.

The way they show the inner lip of the bed curling under (out) makes me think the clamp won't sit flat -and might even accentuate your out of level track- if you try to mount it behind the bed rail.

I imagine that's why their alternate clamp is set up with a heel that allows it to pinch up at the top (toe) holding the track extrusion flat and tight to the bed rail.

But again, I'm not there looking at it.

 

[Gary Lewis]

The way they show the inner lip of the bed curling under (out) makes me think the clamp won't sit flat -and might even accentuate your out of level track- if you try to mount it behind the bed rail.

I imagine that's why their alternate clamp is set up with a heel that allows it to pinch up at the top (toe) holding the track extrusion flat and tight to the bed rail.

But again, I'm not there looking at it.

The inner lip on Big Blue is straight and vertical. Should work great with the "A" clamp on the inside of the lip, and depending on height would work on the outside. It goes under the lip now, but I'm doubting it'll go under the lip with the rail level.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The inner lip on Big Blue is straight and vertical. Should work great with the "A" clamp on the inside of the lip, and depending on height would work on the outside. It goes under the lip now, but I'm doubting it'll go under the lip with the rail level.

I guess your choices are to get the alternate clamp or raise the lip with your die grinder.

But the pair of A clamps you have now should work at the rear if you countersink a flat head screw into them.

[Gary Lewis]

I guess your choices are to get the alternate clamp or raise the lip with your die grinder.

But the pair of A clamps you have now should work at the rear if you countersink a flat head screw into them.

I played with an A clamp yesterday briefly and the rails are too stiff to put one on the rear w/o using one on the front. So I hope to put use the two I have today on the driver's side rail and see if that will level it.

And you are right about using a counter-sunk screw. In the front there will be no room for a bolt head if the clamp is on the inside of the lip. In fact, a 1/4" bolt head may be too thick with the clamp on the outside and the bolt head on the inside.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I played with an A clamp yesterday briefly and the rails are too stiff to put one on the rear w/o using one on the front. So I hope to put use the two I have today on the driver's side rail and see if that will level it.

And you are right about using a counter-sunk screw. In the front there will be no room for a bolt head if the clamp is on the inside of the lip. In fact, a 1/4" bolt head may be too thick with the clamp on the outside and the bolt head on the inside.

I'm assuming you're going to need a lock nut and fender washer to spread the load on the back side of the bed lip.

If you have to mill the clamp extrusion thinner you can even get undercut flat head (wafer head) screws.

12-24 self tapping is pretty common for commercial door hinges set in metal jambs.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Thread-Cutting-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GX0NBG6/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=12-24+undercut+flat+head+screw&qid=1619960381&s=industrial&sr=1-6

I know you'd never need 25. But I don't know what the hardware store is like in Podunk..