Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey, Guys! :)

Yeah, we got our first doses OK (go back on May 15th for #2) but I went through 10 quarts of oil during the ordeal. Took side-streets home (stayed off the hi-rpm highways) and it finally hit 0 oil pressure coasting downhill towards my house ~1/4 mile away.

~~

I have zero idea of sizes or specs, I know how to get brass fittings from the local hardware store.

Here's the original, broken piece (smaller part was obviously in the block) originally installed at least 10 years ago:

And here is the "repaired" assembly, it's in fact worse off right now as the only brass fitting I had was an inch or so longer:

I want to mount that assembly to the firewall, and use a braided hose between it and the block...

Judging from the pen, I'd say 1/8 NPT.

So you want a braided hose male at one end and female at the other?

How long? A foot?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162638740077?chn=ps&var=461639091773&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=461639091773_162638740077&targetid=1068323852830&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003439&poi=&campaignid=10455986536&mkgroupid=104612012140&rlsatarget=pla-1068323852830&abcId=2146002&merchantid=110687517&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1a6EBhC0ARIsAOiTkrGkLtQdE25vUJoSG3Hf7_IqobJWlqNuGp5ba8RZTYLFnoQ7ksNBq-EaAsi_EALw_wcB

 

[ctubutis]

Judging from the pen, I'd say 1/8 NPT.

So you want a braided hose male at one end and female at the other?

How long? A foot?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162638740077?chn=ps&var=461639091773&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=461639091773_162638740077&targetid=1068323852830&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003439&poi=&campaignid=10455986536&mkgroupid=104612012140&rlsatarget=pla-1068323852830&abcId=2146002&merchantid=110687517&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1a6EBhC0ARIsAOiTkrGkLtQdE25vUJoSG3Hf7_IqobJWlqNuGp5ba8RZTYLFnoQ7ksNBq-EaAsi_EALw_wcB

I'm thinking 18" would give me more flexibility, do you have the tools & equipment to make this stuff? You've always been good with the glues, I remember that much.

[ctubutis]

I'm thinking 18" would give me more flexibility, do you have the tools & equipment to make this stuff? You've always been good with the glues, I remember that much.

How about 2 male ends? That Tee thing is just a brass block with holes in it...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm thinking 18" would give me more flexibility, do you have the tools & equipment to make this stuff? You've always been good with the glues, I remember that much.

I don't have the press or dies needed to crimp the ends onto a hydraulic hose.

In the olden days we would make up brake/oil lines with sleeves and ferrules off a spool of hose.

If I needed one 'right now' (locally) I would probably go to a snow plow or tractor service shop.

Hydraulics for bigger equipment are one of those things that can not wait!

Like if your backhoe or bucket truck is stuck on a job site. But they use bigger lines.

I would definitely call around.

 

[ctubutis]

Judging from the pen, I'd say 1/8 NPT.

So you want a braided hose male at one end and female at the other?

How long? A foot?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162638740077?chn=ps&var=461639091773&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=461639091773_162638740077&targetid=1068323852830&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003439&poi=&campaignid=10455986536&mkgroupid=104612012140&rlsatarget=pla-1068323852830&abcId=2146002&merchantid=110687517&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1a6EBhC0ARIsAOiTkrGkLtQdE25vUJoSG3Hf7_IqobJWlqNuGp5ba8RZTYLFnoQ7ksNBq-EaAsi_EALw_wcB

eBay to the rescue!!!!!! Maybe Amazon, too, thanks!!!!

[ArdWrknTrk]

eBay to the rescue!!!!!! Maybe Amazon, too, thanks!!!!

I've had lines made up by Pegasus Auto Racing before.

They have -3 and 1/8 NPT ends as options, but it's more expensive and is going to take a few days.

I must say they are really good about clocking the ends correctly (when you have an application that needs it)

[Gary Lewis]

I've had lines made up by Pegasus Auto Racing before.

They have -3 and 1/8 NPT ends as options, but it's more expensive and is going to take a few days.

I must say they are really good about clocking the ends correctly (when you have an application that needs it)

Got the bed cover installed, although I think I'm going to rework it 'cause the rails sit at an angle.

But first, I cut the rails and the part that engages the cover module to the right lengths. That part turned out very good, and the cover operates well. Here's a shot of it closed, and while it is hard to see, the module is back under the lip of the toolbox by 1" and is up against a 1/8" piece of weather stripping that prevents it from rubbing on the tool box.

But here's the problem. I think this is mainly due to the rail having weather stripping on the outside, none on the inside, and the bed side having a dip on the inside edge. All of that combines for a 1/4" drop across the rail.

So I'm thinking about placing a 1/4" strip of closed-cell foam in the little dip on the bed side, in hopes that it will squish to about 3/16" and cause the rail to level out. However, I currently only have ~1/8" of space between the toolbox and the top of the cover, but I can relax the bolts holding the toolbox a bit and get a bit more. So it is going to be close.

Thoughts?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the bed cover installed, although I think I'm going to rework it 'cause the rails sit at an angle.

But first, I cut the rails and the part that engages the cover module to the right lengths. That part turned out very good, and the cover operates well. Here's a shot of it closed, and while it is hard to see, the module is back under the lip of the toolbox by 1" and is up against a 1/8" piece of weather stripping that prevents it from rubbing on the tool box.

But here's the problem. I think this is mainly due to the rail having weather stripping on the outside, none on the inside, and the bed side having a dip on the inside edge. All of that combines for a 1/4" drop across the rail.

So I'm thinking about placing a 1/4" strip of closed-cell foam in the little dip on the bed side, in hopes that it will squish to about 3/16" and cause the rail to level out. However, I currently only have ~1/8" of space between the toolbox and the top of the cover, but I can relax the bolts holding the toolbox a bit and get a bit more. So it is going to be close.

Thoughts?

I'd probably use foam backer rod intended for deep joints that need be caulked.

It's available in many sizes and is definitely not absorbent.

Edit: but looking at how that rail clamps on I doubt it will help.

The force is applied through the bolt (which is far inboard of the bed lip)

Is there a way to bend the clamp so the contact is beneath where the weatherstrip hits?

I think you're going to have issues with the tool box attached to the floor and the cover attached to the bed rails.

You have a LOT of relative movement there. (but what do I know?)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the bed cover installed, although I think I'm going to rework it 'cause the rails sit at an angle.

But first, I cut the rails and the part that engages the cover module to the right lengths. That part turned out very good, and the cover operates well. Here's a shot of it closed, and while it is hard to see, the module is back under the lip of the toolbox by 1" and is up against a 1/8" piece of weather stripping that prevents it from rubbing on the tool box.

But here's the problem. I think this is mainly due to the rail having weather stripping on the outside, none on the inside, and the bed side having a dip on the inside edge. All of that combines for a 1/4" drop across the rail.

So I'm thinking about placing a 1/4" strip of closed-cell foam in the little dip on the bed side, in hopes that it will squish to about 3/16" and cause the rail to level out. However, I currently only have ~1/8" of space between the toolbox and the top of the cover, but I can relax the bolts holding the toolbox a bit and get a bit more. So it is going to be close.

Thoughts?

How does the cover 'know' when it has reached the end of travel?

Is there a limit switch you need to adjust, or does it sense the motor has stalled and cut the power before it strips the gears?

[Gary Lewis]

I'd probably use foam backer rod intended for deep joints that need be caulked.

It's available in many sizes and is definitely not absorbent.

Edit: but looking at how that rail clamps on I doubt it will help.

The force is applied through the bolt (which is far inboard of the bed lip)

Is there a way to bend the clamp so the contact is beneath where the weatherstrip hits?

I think you're going to have issues with the tool box attached to the floor and the cover attached to the bed rails.

You have a LOT of relative movement there. (but what do I know?)

Jim - There are stops and there's a current-sensing circuit that turns the motor off a few seconds after it hits the stops.

As for the rails, it looks to me like there are two problems: getting the rails leveled and then keeping the cover from hitting the toolbox. I think I can deal with the latter by shimming the toolbox, but we'll see what needs to be done when I get the rails leveled.

On leveling the rails, the clamps I have are either a wonder of engineering or just bizarre. They are the ones I've circled in red in the illustration below. And the bit that I've highlighted is a rotating joint, so as you tighten the bolt the clamp gets longer, which pulls down hard on the inside edge of the rail, which causes the rails to tilt.

I'm thinking I need the clamps I've circled in blue so I can level the rails, drill the inside lip of the bed, and clamp the rail at that point.

Let's kick this around a bit as Pace Edwards is closed for the weekend, but I think I can call them on Monday and get them to send me the other clamps as the ones they sent just don't work for this application.

Thoughts?