Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I think Ford is trying to get you to clamp the box over 288 square inches, not just to one rib, or whatever area is under the washer.

I do this thought experiment when I tell people how my vacuum bag can apply tremendous clamping force.

14.7 x 144 = 2,116.8 lb per sq foot evenly distributed over the surface with no pressure points and no cauls needed

x 32 = 67,737.6. for a whole sheet of plywood.

I don't usually pull down a veneer sheet much over 20"hg, but it is plenty.

I have my doubts about any OSB product staying together when used on the undercarriage of a truck driven in rain, snow or fording streams.

Often they are made with deciduous wood that has no natural rot resistance.

But I haven't seen Advantech around long enough to know for sure.

I do know that even though it is formed to drain, I've seen blistered decks (first or second floor) after prolonged weather.

Exterior and utility grades of plywood are ridiculously expensive right now.

You could use the green (wicking) product. Definitely not the stud & bearing mount!

Jim - Then you'd probably agree with using a piece of steel plate, properly powder coated instead of wood?

However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank. So that's going to be one of the first things I check out when I get to the shop in a bit.

[1986F150Six]

Jim - Then you'd probably agree with using a piece of steel plate, properly powder coated instead of wood?

However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank. So that's going to be one of the first things I check out when I get to the shop in a bit.

Gary, if using steel to support the weight of the tool box, since you will have your welder available for securing the bed bolts, prior to Line-X, why not tack an appropriate number of nuts to the bed under where the steel support will be. Then, drill through the tool box and metal support such that bolts can be inserted from the bottom of the tool box.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Then you'd probably agree with using a piece of steel plate, properly powder coated instead of wood?

However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank. So that's going to be one of the first things I check out when I get to the shop in a bit.

Gary, if using steel to support the weight of the tool box, since you will have your welder available for securing the bed bolts, prior to Line-X, why not tack an appropriate number of nuts to the bed under where the steel support will be. Then, drill through the tool box and metal support such that bolts can be inserted from the bottom of the tool box.

David - Can you say that another way? I haven't gotten my head around it.

But, let me explain what my plans have been. Perhaps I've confused you.

I plan to drill through the bottom of the tool box in six places and put large washers on the heads of the bolts. Then between the underside of the tool box and the bed there will be two runs of 4x4 w/a 2x4 on top. That will lift the box ~3/8". And the bolts will go through those and then through the bed floor.

The question I've been trying to answer is what to put under the bed to spread the load. Are you suggesting tacking nuts to the top of the bed?

[1986F150Six]

David - Can you say that another way? I haven't gotten my head around it.

But, let me explain what my plans have been. Perhaps I've confused you.

I plan to drill through the bottom of the tool box in six places and put large washers on the heads of the bolts. Then between the underside of the tool box and the bed there will be two runs of 4x4 w/a 2x4 on top. That will lift the box ~3/8". And the bolts will go through those and then through the bed floor.

The question I've been trying to answer is what to put under the bed to spread the load. Are you suggesting tacking nuts to the top of the bed?

Yes. I thought this after reading, "However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank."

Also, why not use Aluminum instead of steel?

[Gary Lewis]

David - Can you say that another way? I haven't gotten my head around it.

But, let me explain what my plans have been. Perhaps I've confused you.

I plan to drill through the bottom of the tool box in six places and put large washers on the heads of the bolts. Then between the underside of the tool box and the bed there will be two runs of 4x4 w/a 2x4 on top. That will lift the box ~3/8". And the bolts will go through those and then through the bed floor.

The question I've been trying to answer is what to put under the bed to spread the load. Are you suggesting tacking nuts to the top of the bed?

Yes. I thought this after reading, "However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank."

Also, why not use Aluminum instead of steel?

Not sure I want to have nuts permanently welded to the top of the bed. And, that would concentrate the force to that point. But it would make it a lot easier given where I think the holes will be.

I'll go out in a bit, after I have my 2nd cup, and lay out where I think the holes should go. There are ribs that run crosswise to the bed, and maybe I'll get lucky and can go through one of those.

As for aluminum plate, it would be good if I had some. However, what I have in aluminum is the 3" channel and I doubt I can get a piece up under there. We shall see.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Then you'd probably agree with using a piece of steel plate, properly powder coated instead of wood?

However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank. So that's going to be one of the first things I check out when I get to the shop in a bit.

I dont think I would use a steel circle, much less a steel plate with square corners.

I don't think I would try to bolt it through the bed crossrail either.

I did not write the instructions.

I am not a highly paid and educated automotive engineer working for the blue oval.

I do understand why they would want you to reinforce the inside corners of the bed rails

I do understand why they would want you to mount a toolbox to the floor.

I do understand why they would want you to use a resilient material to spread the load over a minimum of 300 sq inches.

And, I do understand why they would want you to not overload the toolbox.

[Gary Lewis]

Not sure I want to have nuts permanently welded to the top of the bed. And, that would concentrate the force to that point. But it would make it a lot easier given where I think the holes will be.

I'll go out in a bit, after I have my 2nd cup, and lay out where I think the holes should go. There are ribs that run crosswise to the bed, and maybe I'll get lucky and can go through one of those.

As for aluminum plate, it would be good if I had some. However, what I have in aluminum is the 3" channel and I doubt I can get a piece up under there. We shall see.

Ok, here's the latest plan.

First, I'm a bit worried that the toolbox is going to try to tilt on the supports, and the aluminum on the bottom isn't all that strong, even with fender washers under the heads of the bolts. So I'm thinking of installing a piece of 15/16" Advantec inside the box and bolting through that.

Second, there's no problem getting a reinforcement plate above the tank, as shown below. The blue lines indicate where the edges of the toolbox will be, the blue circles roughly where I'll bolt, and the red is where I'll put a 9" x 17" piece of Advantec. But before I install it I'll coat it with polyester resin, including inside the bolt holes.

Thoughts, please?

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here's the latest plan.

First, I'm a bit worried that the toolbox is going to try to tilt on the supports, and the aluminum on the bottom isn't all that strong, even with fender washers under the heads of the bolts. So I'm thinking of installing a piece of 15/16" Advantec inside the box and bolting through that.

Second, there's no problem getting a reinforcement plate above the tank, as shown below. The blue lines indicate where the edges of the toolbox will be, the blue circles roughly where I'll bolt, and the red is where I'll put a 9" x 17" piece of Advantec. But before I install it I'll coat it with polyester resin, including inside the bolt holes.

Thoughts, please?

Well, I'm pressing on. Got the 4x4 and 2x4 as well as 8" galvanized 1/2-13 bolts and nuts. And, my very first step drill since I'm going to be doing a lot of drilling of sheet metal. (Its a Milwaukee, and boy are they expensive!)

Then I started laying it out and realized that I couldn't drill from the bottom because the frame was in the way. So I laid it out on top, held my breath, and drilled. Spot on! And the step drill did a remarkable job.

So with the holes in the bed I measured and drilled the wood, pushed the bolts in, and put them in place. They fit!

I still need to layout and drill the two center holes, but that won't take too long. Then I can start preparing the bed, including tacking the bolts and painting the rust with primer. After that I'll paint the wood.

Anyway, here are a couple of shots:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I'm pressing on. Got the 4x4 and 2x4 as well as 8" galvanized 1/2-13 bolts and nuts. And, my very first step drill since I'm going to be doing a lot of drilling of sheet metal. (Its a Milwaukee, and boy are they expensive!)

Then I started laying it out and realized that I couldn't drill from the bottom because the frame was in the way. So I laid it out on top, held my breath, and drilled. Spot on! And the step drill did a remarkable job.

So with the holes in the bed I measured and drilled the wood, pushed the bolts in, and put them in place. They fit!

I still need to layout and drill the two center holes, but that won't take too long. Then I can start preparing the bed, including tacking the bolts and painting the rust with primer. After that I'll paint the wood.

Anyway, here are a couple of shots:

Greenlee step drills are the go to.

Uni-bit cobalt were nice until Irwin bought them. (just like Vice-Grip)

Now the same story as everywhere else.

Which is why I recommend the Horrid Fate step drills.

They come in two/three pack sets and four brands -or grades-

Drill Master, Warrior, Bauer & Hercules.

Titanium Nitride, Black Oxide or Cobalt coatings.

[Gary Lewis]

Greenlee step drills are the go to.

Uni-bit cobalt were nice until Irwin bought them. (just like Vice-Grip)

Now the same story as everywhere else.

Which is why I recommend the Horrid Fate step drills.

They come in two/three pack sets and four brands -or grades-

Drill Master, Warrior, Bauer & Hercules.

Titanium Nitride, Black Oxide or Cobalt coatings.

Thanks, Jim. I was in a buy-local mood today so bought from the local Ace hardware store. And all they had was Milwaukee. Hopefully it is a good one.

But it sure worked well. it started holes easily and chewed right through the bed as if it was wood. And it left a nice hole. I was impressed.