Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Oh! I've had that view recently, as I had to torch out both of those bumper bracket bolts (and the two on the other side too.

If you have to tack the head in, instead of cutting it off and replacing it, why would you cut the tack loose before bedliner???

If the bolt heads spin under the liner... then you are well and truly blued.

Better to tack them all.

At least then you can get the bed off if need be in the future.

Actually, I was thinking of tacking something to the head of the bolt, not tacking the bolt head to the bed. But that's a much better idea! I'll just tack all the bolts in. I have to paint things anyway, so there will just be a bit more to paint.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Actually, I was thinking of tacking something to the head of the bolt, not tacking the bolt head to the bed. But that's a much better idea! I'll just tack all the bolts in. I have to paint things anyway, so there will just be a bit more to paint.

When you're one man, and can only be under -or in- the bed, you figure out pretty quick that an impact on the nut is going to dislodge whatever you have trying to hold those bolt heads in place.

Given you have a lift, getting it to come straight up and off is not an issue.

[Gary Lewis]

When you're one man, and can only be under -or in- the bed, you figure out pretty quick that an impact on the nut is going to dislodge whatever you have trying to hold those bolt heads in place.

Given you have a lift, getting it to come straight up and off is not an issue.

Yes, tacking the bolt to the bed takes care of the need to be in the bed to hold whatever I was going tack to the head. Don't know what I was thinking. Maybe I wasn't?

As for lifting the bed, I hope I don't have to take it off.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, tacking the bolt to the bed takes care of the need to be in the bed to hold whatever I was going tack to the head. Don't know what I was thinking. Maybe I wasn't?

As for lifting the bed, I hope I don't have to take it off.

But you're future-proofing everything except the demise of petroleum.

You might as well lube them up and tack them in.

Or better yet install all the nuts with PST.

I know how much you love the silver paste but I guarantee an anerobic with teflon will keep that nut from ever seizing.

[kramttocs]

But you're future-proofing everything except the demise of petroleum.

You might as well lube them up and tack them in.

Or better yet install all the nuts with PST.

I know how much you love the silver paste but I guarantee an anerobic with teflon will keep that nut from ever seizing.

Late but I second (third?) Jim's idea. Either make the bolts part of the bed or remove them during the application of the bedliner. The former sounds like the solution for you.

I was at a couple lumber yards today and looked at the composite deck posts. Nothing really fit the measurements, even if ripped down, and making something work from multiple layers of PVC gets cost prohibitive. I'd say your 4x4 and 2x4 is a good solution.

My bed also has decent sized drains in the front near the corners. Checked a few beds at the PicknPull and the gaps varied widely. Some would easily get sealed up with bedliner.

[Gary Lewis]

But you're future-proofing everything except the demise of petroleum.

You might as well lube them up and tack them in.

Or better yet install all the nuts with PST.

I know how much you love the silver paste but I guarantee an anerobic with teflon will keep that nut from ever seizing.

LOL! Was wondering just yesterday how I'd put an electric motor in Big Blue.

Anyway, I don't think I'll pull the nuts off the other bed bolts. I might pull this one off and PST it. Or I may just tighten it up. Not sure. But I will tack them all before the bed liner goes on.

Speaking of the bed liner, Line-X says it'll be 120 mils thick, or .120" thick. Basically 1/8". If my measurements are right and the 4x4 + 2x4 combo raises the toolbox 1/4 - 5/16" off the bed sides, then adding 1/8" will make it 3/8 - 7/16" between the toolbox and the bed sides. So I should probably put 1/2" thick foam tape on the bedsides to cushion things and prevent contact between the toolbox and the bedsides when crossed up.

The TSB says "When a piece of equipment is secured to the load floor it should not also be secured to the box sides." So I'm thinking I can forego installing the L-brackets from the TSB. Does that seem reasonable?

Then there's the plywood that Ford says should be installed below the bed, as shown below. (I'm not using plywood to support the toolbox as that's what the 2x4s do.) I don't really want to use plywood, but Ford seems to think that something is needed, probably to keep from crushing the corrugations. I'm think of two possible solutions:

• Using 3/8" bolts that will fit into the corrugation so I can put the nut up against the top of the corrugation.

• Making metal plates to fit instead of wood.

Thoughts?

[Nothing Special]

LOL! Was wondering just yesterday how I'd put an electric motor in Big Blue.

A guy at work just got a 2021 Bronco Sport, 50 years newer than my Bronco! We were comparing and contrasting and realized that right now his Bronco is a lot more reliable than mine. But 50 years from now we both thought mine had a much better chance of driving than his does! (if there's still any gas)

.... Then there's the plywood that Ford says should be installed below the bed, as shown below. (I'm not using plywood to support the toolbox as that's what the 2x4s do.) I don't really want to use plywood, but Ford seems to think that something is needed, probably to keep from crushing the corrugations. I'm think of two possible solutions:

• Using 3/8" bolts that will fit into the corrugation so I can put the nut up against the top of the corrugation.

• Making metal plates to fit instead of wood.

Thoughts?

Bolting just to one flat in the corrugation concentrates the load more, so I think it would be more likely to deform the bed floor if the tool box tried very hard to lift up. I don't think the tool box will try very hard to lift up, but if Ford is suggesting plywood they might know something I don't know. (edit: maybe if you hot a harsh bump the tool box could try to fly up hard enough to deform something???)

Wood has the advantage over metal of "giving" more at stress risers. So a wooden plate would be less likely to crease the sheet metal at the edges of the plate than a metal plate would.

That said, while I see some logic behind using wood, I think either of your solutions would work OK too give the tool box isn't lighter than air.

 

[kramttocs]

LOL! Was wondering just yesterday how I'd put an electric motor in Big Blue.

A guy at work just got a 2021 Bronco Sport, 50 years newer than my Bronco! We were comparing and contrasting and realized that right now his Bronco is a lot more reliable than mine. But 50 years from now we both thought mine had a much better chance of driving than his does! (if there's still any gas)

.... Then there's the plywood that Ford says should be installed below the bed, as shown below. (I'm not using plywood to support the toolbox as that's what the 2x4s do.) I don't really want to use plywood, but Ford seems to think that something is needed, probably to keep from crushing the corrugations. I'm think of two possible solutions:

• Using 3/8" bolts that will fit into the corrugation so I can put the nut up against the top of the corrugation.

• Making metal plates to fit instead of wood.

Thoughts?

Bolting just to one flat in the corrugation concentrates the load more, so I think it would be more likely to deform the bed floor if the tool box tried very hard to lift up. I don't think the tool box will try very hard to lift up, but if Ford is suggesting plywood they might know something I don't know. (edit: maybe if you hot a harsh bump the tool box could try to fly up hard enough to deform something???)

Wood has the advantage over metal of "giving" more at stress risers. So a wooden plate would be less likely to crease the sheet metal at the edges of the plate than a metal plate would.

That said, while I see some logic behind using wood, I think either of your solutions would work OK too give the tool box isn't lighter than air.

I wonder how long Advantech would last in that location?

[Gary Lewis]

I wonder how long Advantech would last in that location?

Bob - This tool box is gonna be LOADED! I took the stuff out yesterday, and the chain, binders, 3 ton jack, 4-way, and Craftsman tool box collectively must approach 200 lbs. Granted, for overlanding trips I won't need the binders, but the rest of it and then some will go. Then there's the air compressor. So spreading the load is a good thing.

Scott - Advantech! I have some of that. I wonder how much? I'll look tomorrow.

[ArdWrknTrk]

LOL! Was wondering just yesterday how I'd put an electric motor in Big Blue.

Anyway, I don't think I'll pull the nuts off the other bed bolts. I might pull this one off and PST it. Or I may just tighten it up. Not sure. But I will tack them all before the bed liner goes on.

Speaking of the bed liner, Line-X says it'll be 120 mils thick, or .120" thick. Basically 1/8". If my measurements are right and the 4x4 + 2x4 combo raises the toolbox 1/4 - 5/16" off the bed sides, then adding 1/8" will make it 3/8 - 7/16" between the toolbox and the bed sides. So I should probably put 1/2" thick foam tape on the bedsides to cushion things and prevent contact between the toolbox and the bedsides when crossed up.

The TSB says "When a piece of equipment is secured to the load floor it should not also be secured to the box sides." So I'm thinking I can forego installing the L-brackets from the TSB. Does that seem reasonable?

Then there's the plywood that Ford says should be installed below the bed, as shown below. (I'm not using plywood to support the toolbox as that's what the 2x4s do.) I don't really want to use plywood, but Ford seems to think that something is needed, probably to keep from crushing the corrugations. I'm think of two possible solutions:

• Using 3/8" bolts that will fit into the corrugation so I can put the nut up against the top of the corrugation.

• Making metal plates to fit instead of wood.

Thoughts?

I think Ford is trying to get you to clamp the box over 288 square inches, not just to one rib, or whatever area is under the washer.

I do this thought experiment when I tell people how my vacuum bag can apply tremendous clamping force.

14.7 x 144 = 2,116.8 lb per sq foot evenly distributed over the surface with no pressure points and no cauls needed

x 32 = 67,737.6. for a whole sheet of plywood.

I don't usually pull down a veneer sheet much over 20"hg, but it is plenty.

I have my doubts about any OSB product staying together when used on the undercarriage of a truck driven in rain, snow or fording streams.

Often they are made with deciduous wood that has no natural rot resistance.

But I haven't seen Advantech around long enough to know for sure.

I do know that even though it is formed to drain, I've seen blistered decks (first or second floor) after prolonged weather.

Exterior and utility grades of plywood are ridiculously expensive right now.

You could use the green (wicking) product. Definitely not the stud & bearing mount!