Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I just drink coffee, leaded with some sugar. I am definitely not into flavored coffee or any creamer. When I was still working I would have a cup with breakfast, one when I got to the lab, usually one mid-morning and one mid-afternoon. Now I just generally have one in the morning. I prefer 8 O'clock original.

UPS delivered the rest of the parts today, as well as a bunch more French Roast.

The first thing I noticed was that the boxes the tie rod ends were in were quite different, even though the parts themselves were identical.

That led me to check all of the boxes, and I got lucky - all of the major parts were made in the USofA. The only part from elsewhere was the adjuster sleeve, which was made in China. But, it appears to be fine.

So, I installed the tie rod ends in the adjusting sleeves and onto the tie rods themselves, and adjusted them to the same length as the originals. And, here's a before and after pic:

So, tomorrow I'll install the eccentrics, ball joints, and knuckles. And, maybe see about the axles and the spindles. But, I do have to think about the dust shields, which were the worse for the wear after getting everything apart. How badly do I need them?

[salans7]

UPS delivered the rest of the parts today, as well as a bunch more French Roast.

The first thing I noticed was that the boxes the tie rod ends were in were quite different, even though the parts themselves were identical.

That led me to check all of the boxes, and I got lucky - all of the major parts were made in the USofA. The only part from elsewhere was the adjuster sleeve, which was made in China. But, it appears to be fine.

So, I installed the tie rod ends in the adjusting sleeves and onto the tie rods themselves, and adjusted them to the same length as the originals. And, here's a before and after pic:

So, tomorrow I'll install the eccentrics, ball joints, and knuckles. And, maybe see about the axles and the spindles. But, I do have to think about the dust shields, which were the worse for the wear after getting everything apart. How badly do I need them?

You really don't need the dust shields.

[Gary Lewis]

You really don't need the dust shields.

That's what I'm thinking as well. But wanted others opinions.

[Gary Lewis]

You really don't need the dust shields.

That's what I'm thinking as well. But wanted others opinions.

Ok guys, while waiting for the D60 to be re-re-worked I'm going to turn to the engine. But before I get into what I did today I need to ask some questions.

First, I need to get with Totally Stainless and get the right fasteners in the works. And from what I remember I need:

• Water pump bolts, but those are the same for all 460's, whether carb'd or EFI'd. Right?

• Valve cover bolts, and I'm going to send them one of mine.

• Lower plenum bolts. I don't think they are special, so I just need to measure them. I think.

• The vertical studs for the fuel rails

Is that all? Not sure I need stainless pan bolts.

But, it looks to me like I need new head bolts. Scotty said to just reuse the original ones, but I started cleaning them up today and I don't like what I'm seeing. Here's a shot of some of them after blasting them:

And if that's not close enough, try this shot:

So I'm planning to order ARP's. However, what are your thoughts?

Now for what I did today. Here's the engine coming out of the truck:

And here it is on the stand in the shop:

 

[85lebaront2]

Ok guys, while waiting for the D60 to be re-re-worked I'm going to turn to the engine. But before I get into what I did today I need to ask some questions.

First, I need to get with Totally Stainless and get the right fasteners in the works. And from what I remember I need:

• Water pump bolts, but those are the same for all 460's, whether carb'd or EFI'd. Right?

• Valve cover bolts, and I'm going to send them one of mine.

• Lower plenum bolts. I don't think they are special, so I just need to measure them. I think.

• The vertical studs for the fuel rails

Is that all? Not sure I need stainless pan bolts.

But, it looks to me like I need new head bolts. Scotty said to just reuse the original ones, but I started cleaning them up today and I don't like what I'm seeing. Here's a shot of some of them after blasting them:

And if that's not close enough, try this shot:

So I'm planning to order ARP's. However, what are your thoughts?

Now for what I did today. Here's the engine coming out of the truck:

And here it is on the stand in the shop:

I would definitely get new head bolts, on the intake, you have one special bolt, left side back of the two vertical bolts in the center (where the crossover is on a carbureted engine) It has a 5/16-18 stud on top of the 9/16" hex. This is where the coil and vacuum solenoids mount. The other item, the 4 corner fasteners on the intake are originally studs with flanged nuts, I imagine Ford did this to facilitate manifold installation on the assembly line.

On the water pump, the truck engines have three different length bolts, I believe I may have sent you the pictures with length and locations, but if not I will. Mine has ARP bolts pretty well everywhere except the exhaust manifolds and motor mounts.

[salans7]

I would definitely get new head bolts, on the intake, you have one special bolt, left side back of the two vertical bolts in the center (where the crossover is on a carbureted engine) It has a 5/16-18 stud on top of the 9/16" hex. This is where the coil and vacuum solenoids mount. The other item, the 4 corner fasteners on the intake are originally studs with flanged nuts, I imagine Ford did this to facilitate manifold installation on the assembly line.

On the water pump, the truck engines have three different length bolts, I believe I may have sent you the pictures with length and locations, but if not I will. Mine has ARP bolts pretty well everywhere except the exhaust manifolds and motor mounts.

Why do people keep giving you bad advice? (not Bill)

New head bolts are in your future. The first three on the left are just awful.

[Gary Lewis]

Why do people keep giving you bad advice? (not Bill)

New head bolts are in your future. The first three on the left are just awful.

Bill - Thanks. I'll try laying out all the fasteners tomorrow and get pics to ensure I know what I'm doing.

Shaun - I think Scotty said something like "if they are good", and they clearly aren't.

But, guys, I'm having trouble finding reasonably-priced head bolts. These ARP's are $179. Why not go with this stud kit from Speedmaster for $87?

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Thanks. I'll try laying out all the fasteners tomorrow and get pics to ensure I know what I'm doing.

Shaun - I think Scotty said something like "if they are good", and they clearly aren't.

But, guys, I'm having trouble finding reasonably-priced head bolts. These ARP's are $179. Why not go with this stud kit from Speedmaster for $87?

Are they US made or Chinese? Mine has ARP 255-3701 head bolts, 155-603 rob bolts and 155-2005 intake bolt kit in it.

[Gary Lewis]

Are they US made or Chinese? Mine has ARP 255-3701 head bolts, 155-603 rob bolts and 155-2005 intake bolt kit in it.

It doesn't say where the Speedmaster studs are made. And with lots of searching I've not found anything but Taiwan or Chinese besides the ARP's. But I don't think the engine needs them.

I'd be happy with stock head bolts, but I haven't found them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd be happy with stock head bolts, but I haven't found them.

Why?

You can't buy them through dealer channels?

You can't find the P/N and search on that?