Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Speaking of clearance, as best I've measured the shocks will bottom before the axle hits the bump stops. In that case there will be ~1" of clearance at full compression between the axle and the actuator. But I'm going to pull a shock loose tomorrow to make sure that's the case.

Thoughts?

Unless your shocks are designed to be used as travel stops for the suspension, bottoming them internally will destroy them, maybe not immediately but will eventually. I know that every tubular shock I have dealt with is designed to be an extension stop, but not a compression stop. Even the FWD vehicles have a rubber cushion so the shock is not bottomed, and I have seen a few where some genius wanted to make a low rider and ends up taking it out so he isn't hitting the stop cushion, then wonders why his special shocks are no longer working after a few weeks.

When I had my Shelby, it had Konis on it and the damping level adjustment was done by fully collapsing the shock and turning the rod and tube until the adjusting tab on the piston engaged the valve plate, then turning it in the desired direction until it "clicked" as many steps as you wanted, firmer or softer. The point on this, is the piston will smack into the control valves when the shock is fully collapsed.

Either put spacers between the bump stops and frame or put blocks on the axle where it would hit the bump stops. The other alternative, if one end of the shocks is a plain stud, put some hard rubber between the shock body and the washer nearest the shock to serve as a bump stop (that's what is used on Macpherson Struts).

Good point, Bill. I should pull a shock loose, collapse it, and measure the difference between its eye and that of the shock tower. Then see how that compares with the distance between the axle and the bump stops. I could easily put spacers above the bump stops.

[Gary Lewis]

Good point, Bill. I should pull a shock loose, collapse it, and measure the difference between its eye and that of the shock tower. Then see how that compares with the distance between the axle and the bump stops. I could easily put spacers above the bump stops.

Mid-day report. The shocks are Bilstein 33-185552's, which have an extended length of 25.930" and a compressed length of 15.910".

So I pulled a shock loose at the top and compressed it with a ratchet strap. As best I could measure it is 16" from C/L of the eyes, which matches the spec's closely. And it has 7 1/2" from the top eye to the shock tower holes when fully compressed. But there is 8 1/8" of space between the bump stop and the axle. So it looks like I need to put a 3/4" to a 1" spacer between the bump stop and the frame. A 3/4" one only allows for 1/8" of compression on the rubber bump stops, and I think I'd better plan on 3/8" of compression.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

And now I'm off to investigate the new radio as it just came in.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Mid-day report. The shocks are Bilstein 33-185552's, which have an extended length of 25.930" and a compressed length of 15.910".

So I pulled a shock loose at the top and compressed it with a ratchet strap. As best I could measure it is 16" from C/L of the eyes, which matches the spec's closely. And it has 7 1/2" from the top eye to the shock tower holes when fully compressed. But there is 8 1/8" of space between the bump stop and the axle. So it looks like I need to put a 3/4" to a 1" spacer between the bump stop and the frame. A 3/4" one only allows for 1/8" of compression on the rubber bump stops, and I think I'd better plan on 3/8" of compression.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

And now I'm off to investigate the new radio as it just came in.

Got the new radio mounted. I used the sleeve that came with it as the one for the old radio didn't work, but the new sleeve fits the bezel nicely so this radio will be solid enough until I get the rear mount on it. However, I did play around a bit with the factory brackets, and while I could make them work it would be fiddly getting the height and depth exactly right. This way it works automatically.

This radio is lighter as the old one includes a CD player, so there's less weight stuck out there. But it still needs the rear mount. Also, the connectors are different so I'll have to cut the old one out and solder in the new one, but that will wait until tomorrow.

I did check on the microphone. There's ~12' of wire on it! So there will be plenty to put it anywhere I want. But I think what I'll do is to drive around talking to someone and clip the mic in various places and see how they sound to the "party to whom I am speaking".

Anyway, hopefully tomorrow I'll have it working and can at least go through the setup on it.

Here's a pic of it mounted. And you can also see what I'm talking about regarding pushing the connectors to the switches through the openings in the upper corners. In the left you can see the white of the Molex connector that I have one pin into, and on the right you can see the clock connector.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the new radio mounted. I used the sleeve that came with it as the one for the old radio didn't work, but the new sleeve fits the bezel nicely so this radio will be solid enough until I get the rear mount on it. However, I did play around a bit with the factory brackets, and while I could make them work it would be fiddly getting the height and depth exactly right. This way it works automatically.

This radio is lighter as the old one includes a CD player, so there's less weight stuck out there. But it still needs the rear mount. Also, the connectors are different so I'll have to cut the old one out and solder in the new one, but that will wait until tomorrow.

I did check on the microphone. There's ~12' of wire on it! So there will be plenty to put it anywhere I want. But I think what I'll do is to drive around talking to someone and clip the mic in various places and see how they sound to the "party to whom I am speaking".

Anyway, hopefully tomorrow I'll have it working and can at least go through the setup on it.

Here's a pic of it mounted. And you can also see what I'm talking about regarding pushing the connectors to the switches through the openings in the upper corners. In the left you can see the white of the Molex connector that I have one pin into, and on the right you can see the clock connector.

On the right I see a binder clip, and I wonder what its holding.

[Gary Lewis]

On the right I see a binder clip, and I wonder what its holding.

With the dash pad/cover gone there's nothing for the two screws at the top of the bezel to screw into. So the binder clip holds the bezel to the dash.

No comment on how thick of a spacer to use on the bump stops?

[salans7]

With the dash pad/cover gone there's nothing for the two screws at the top of the bezel to screw into. So the binder clip holds the bezel to the dash.

No comment on how thick of a spacer to use on the bump stops?

I like the Bluetooth call feature in my Ranger, but find it can be hard to hear the other person without the windows up and a ton of sound deadening. So if you have a loud engine, it may be harder to hear the other person as on my radio, call volume levels are significantly lower than normal audio levels. In other words, when people call me and I turn the volume all the way up, the call audio level is significantly lower than when I play my music at only half volume.

[Gary Lewis]

I like the Bluetooth call feature in my Ranger, but find it can be hard to hear the other person without the windows up and a ton of sound deadening. So if you have a loud engine, it may be harder to hear the other person as on my radio, call volume levels are significantly lower than normal audio levels. In other words, when people call me and I turn the volume all the way up, the call audio level is significantly lower than when I play my music at only half volume.

One of the many features of this radio is the ability to adjust the volume level of the different inputs. Here's one:

BT AUDIO VOL (BLUETOOTH audio volume)

Adjusts the volume level for each connected BLUETOOTH device: [+6 dB] – [0 dB] – [-6 dB]. This setting negates the need to adjust the volume level between sources.

As I read it, if I have two devices in the vehicle, like Janey's phone and mine, I can turn each one up or down by 6db in the presets.

And, speaking of Bluetooth devices, there's a cool way to pair them:

Connecting with an iPhone/iPod (BLUETOOTH Auto Pairing)

When an iPhone/iPod with iOS5 or later installed is connected to the USB port, the unit is paired and connected with the iPhone/iPod automatically. To enable BLUETOOTH Auto Pairing, make sure [AUTO PAIRING] in [bLUETOOTH] is set to [ON].

That sure beats many of the vehicles I've owned where you couldn't pair a phone if the vehicle was moving.

I'm stoked! This thing has more features than I can get my head around.

[ArdWrknTrk]

With the dash pad/cover gone there's nothing for the two screws at the top of the bezel to screw into. So the binder clip holds the bezel to the dash.

No comment on how thick of a spacer to use on the bump stops?

I've never had too short a shock for my application.

[ArdWrknTrk]

One of the many features of this radio is the ability to adjust the volume level of the different inputs. Here's one:

BT AUDIO VOL (BLUETOOTH audio volume)

Adjusts the volume level for each connected BLUETOOTH device: [+6 dB] – [0 dB] – [-6 dB]. This setting negates the need to adjust the volume level between sources.

As I read it, if I have two devices in the vehicle, like Janey's phone and mine, I can turn each one up or down by 6db in the presets.

And, speaking of Bluetooth devices, there's a cool way to pair them:

Connecting with an iPhone/iPod (BLUETOOTH Auto Pairing)

When an iPhone/iPod with iOS5 or later installed is connected to the USB port, the unit is paired and connected with the iPhone/iPod automatically. To enable BLUETOOTH Auto Pairing, make sure [AUTO PAIRING] in [bLUETOOTH] is set to [ON].

That sure beats many of the vehicles I've owned where you couldn't pair a phone if the vehicle was moving.

I'm stoked! This thing has more features than I can get my head around.

I don't have an iDevice but pairing Android is simple, and I find no problem with call volume.

I imagine having one means your iTunes is synched and you have your entire library with you all the time.

The noise reduction seems to work well too, but note I do have a bootie over my mic, and I will roll up the window at highway speed.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't have an iDevice but pairing Android is simple, and I find no problem with call volume.

I imagine having one means your iTunes is synched and you have your entire library with you all the time.

The noise reduction seems to work well too, but note I do have a bootie over my mic, and I will roll up the window at highway speed.

Good to know that it works well on calls, Jim.

On the shocks, Summit says the Bilstein 33-185552's are for a 0 - 2" lifted application. Apparently I'd have been better off with a shock for no lift as these are just a bit too long. But at $94/ea they are what they are so I'll add spacers to ensure I don't bottom them out.