Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Yes, I've had a lot of corneal abrasions and a good amount of arc flash which I notice most with a pitted windshield at night. I see now how those clips are meant to fit the mid-sized (DIN and a half?) Ford radios common in the 80's. Maybe you had a look at how Huck's radio mounted? I'm not sure how much (if any) of the interior came with that clip. I don't remember what came in Huck. Probably wasn't original as most things had been .... shadetree'd. And I didn't keep any of that. Sorry. I think it would be fairly easy to use the side mounts, but I think my plan is going to work nicely. We shall see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I don't remember what came in Huck. Probably wasn't original as most things had been .... shadetree'd. And I didn't keep any of that. Sorry. I think it would be fairly easy to use the side mounts, but I think my plan is going to work nicely. We shall see. No need to apologize. I was just wondering if you knew how the later radios (like mine) were supported. The top mounted nylon slider gives the radio a way to hang from the track and the ears mounted to the chassis a way to register it to the dash structure, and then screw it down. I end up attaching these ears to every radio I install. The Sony, though it had lots of holes, didn't want to sit with the projection I wanted. So I drilled a couple of holes and bedded the clips with JB Weld to stave off vibration induced failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 No need to apologize. I was just wondering if you knew how the later radios (like mine) were supported. The top mounted nylon slider gives the radio a way to hang from the track and the ears mounted to the chassis a way to register it to the dash structure, and then screw it down. I end up attaching these ears to every radio I install. The Sony, though it had lots of holes, didn't want to sit with the projection I wanted. So I drilled a couple of holes and bedded the clips with JB Weld to stave off vibration induced failure. Apparently Huck didn't have that still on him as I sure don't remember it. Sounds like a nice solution. Did you see the statement in the owner's manual for our radio? Mounting the unit in a Japanese car You may not be able to install this unit in some makes of Japanese cars. In such a case, consult your Sony dealer. But then they show this graphic that tells how to mount the radio in two of the brands. Are they screwing into the radio? Surely they are instead of into the sleeve as the screws would protrude into the cavity. Anyway, they do show using the screw holes to mount the radio, much as you apparently did? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Apparently Huck didn't have that still on him as I sure don't remember it. Sounds like a nice solution. Did you see the statement in the owner's manual for our radio? Mounting the unit in a Japanese car You may not be able to install this unit in some makes of Japanese cars. In such a case, consult your Sony dealer. But then they show this graphic that tells how to mount the radio in two of the brands. Are they screwing into the radio? Surely they are instead of into the sleeve as the screws would protrude into the cavity. Anyway, they do show using the screw holes to mount the radio, much as you apparently did? Well.... I don't usually look at the instructions. Until I've already screwed something up! Isn't that coded into the Y chromosome???? Yes, the Bullnose radio 'ears' are very similar to that (but only fit the single DIN radio, not whatever the lower unit is) And in conjunction with the overhead nylon slider seem to work very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Well.... I don't usually look at the instructions. Until I've already screwed something up! Isn't that coded into the Y chromosome???? Yes, the Bullnose radio 'ears' are very similar to that (but only fit the single DIN radio, not whatever the lower unit is) And in conjunction with the overhead nylon slider seem to work very well. I used this to mount my stereo https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120995700/Metra-99-5700-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I used this to mount my stereo https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120995700/Metra-99-5700-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 Crutchfield will usually give you the harness adapters and stuff you need on purchases of $99 or more. I don't know about stand-offs and other brackets. Metra has been around a long time and has most everything you might need though! How simple and solid was your installation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 I used this to mount my stereo https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120995700/Metra-99-5700-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121 That kit looks like it would work. Hope I don't need it, but it is good to know it is there. As for the instructions, Dad used to say "When all else fails, dig the instructions out of the trash." Yep, it is in my DNA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 That kit looks like it would work. Hope I don't need it, but it is good to know it is there. As for the instructions, Dad used to say "When all else fails, dig the instructions out of the trash." Yep, it is in my DNA Well, I've come to the conclusion that installing 12 different 1/4" connectors, 9 of which are to the switches, each time I want to remove the bezel is not going to work. Even for me it would be a major pain, but for my offspring it would be a nightmare. Part of the problem is that the pinouts of the switches isn't intuitive, and part is because it varies by the type of switch it is. So you have to look at the documentation to figure it out. Given that, I'm going to be looking for a connector pair today. I need 9 pins going to the left, so hope to find a suitable pair from the harnii I have. But that should make installation far easier and let me do the majority of the soldering on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Well, I've come to the conclusion that installing 12 different 1/4" connectors, 9 of which are to the switches, each time I want to remove the bezel is not going to work. Even for me it would be a major pain, but for my offspring it would be a nightmare. Part of the problem is that the pinouts of the switches isn't intuitive, and part is because it varies by the type of switch it is. So you have to look at the documentation to figure it out. Given that, I'm going to be looking for a connector pair today. I need 9 pins going to the left, so hope to find a suitable pair from the harnii I have. But that should make installation far easier and let me do the majority of the soldering on the bench. Gary, the ones I bought from Amazon might work (the ones I did the instrument cluster with) or I found a bag of Radio Shack 9 and 12 pin interlocking connectors. PNs are 2740229 and 2740239 for the 9 pin, 2740232 and 274-242 for the 12 pin. I bought them a long time ago and ended up not using them. pins are rated 12 A @ 250 V. I have no plans to use them so if you can use them I will send them to you. That is what I did with the 1956 Dodge cluster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Gary, the ones I bought from Amazon might work (the ones I did the instrument cluster with) or I found a bag of Radio Shack 9 and 12 pin interlocking connectors. PNs are 2740229 and 2740239 for the 9 pin, 2740232 and 274-242 for the 12 pin. I bought them a long time ago and ended up not using them. pins are rated 12 A @ 250 V. I have no plans to use them so if you can use them I will send them to you. That is what I did with the 1956 Dodge cluster. Thanks, Bill. But I think I have it worked out. If the weather was different and I could get an Amazon delivery tomorrow I might do it differently, but given the mess in Texas most of our orders have no delivery date shown. For instance, the tracking on my radio via UPS keeps saying "Check back tomorrow" and "Weather notice". I want to be able to push the connector through an opening in the upper left corner of the dash behind the bezel, and none of the Ford connectors with enough connections would go through there. So I found these connectors that I'd previously used and am repurposing them. They use .094" pins, so should handle the current being drawn by the various things, the largest of which is the OX locker, which is supposed to be fused at 10A. Would you agree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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