Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

That a/c vent duct makes it tough or at least it did with the double din unit.

Do you have one of the standoff/supports that screws to the back of the stereo and clips to the dash support at the hump? Some screw to the radio while some clamp over the back of it.

If you ever do have to try and come in from the bottom, removing the floor duct helps.

Note the far one has been re-bent for a different length head unit.

The clip on one I had was aftermarket. I used part of it for mine and am not finding a photo.

[Gary Lewis]

That a/c vent duct makes it tough or at least it did with the double din unit.

Do you have one of the standoff/supports that screws to the back of the stereo and clips to the dash support at the hump? Some screw to the radio while some clamp over the back of it.

If you ever do have to try and come in from the bottom, removing the floor duct helps.

I'm not sure what the back of the new unit looks like. There's an illustration of it in the owner's manual, which I've downloaded, but it is just that - an illustration - so it may not show everything. But from what I see there's no stud nor way to mount it back there.

If that is the case then I'll see if I can use the sleeve from the existing radio or make something similar to install back there for the unit to slide into.

But, tell me more about those brackets? How do they attach? To what?

[kramttocs]

I'm not sure what the back of the new unit looks like. There's an illustration of it in the owner's manual, which I've downloaded, but it is just that - an illustration - so it may not show everything. But from what I see there's no stud nor way to mount it back there.

If that is the case then I'll see if I can use the sleeve from the existing radio or make something similar to install back there for the unit to slide into.

But, tell me more about those brackets? How do they attach? To what?

Found this photo at conrad.com via google search so assuming it's correct...

A and A would be attached via a machine screw

B (bottom of radio) would rest on B (bracket)

The arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck.

The holes on the side opposite the arrow are for connector clips (remnants are still there)

The clip on the underside of the bracket would slip over the area of the dash support that has the trapezoid cutout. The dash photo is from my 86 where I flattened the hump as I didn't have another photo handy. So in yours where the cutout is it will be raised up.

If you went with one of these it looks like the supplied mic has a right angle end on it so it might clear without modifications needed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Found this photo at conrad.com via google search so assuming it's correct...

A and A would be attached via a machine screw

B (bottom of radio) would rest on B (bracket)

The arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck.

The holes on the side opposite the arrow are for connector clips (remnants are still there)

The clip on the underside of the bracket would slip over the area of the dash support that has the trapezoid cutout. The dash photo is from my 86 where I flattened the hump as I didn't have another photo handy. So in yours where the cutout is it will be raised up.

If you went with one of these it looks like the supplied mic has a right angle end on it so it might clear without modifications needed.

I'm glad my '87 has the T channel above the radio for support.

The microphone plug is pretty tight.

I recall clearancing the plastic sliding brace so I could plug it in.

But it might be fine for you if you can come over the top.

[Gary Lewis]

Found this photo at conrad.com via google search so assuming it's correct...

A and A would be attached via a machine screw

B (bottom of radio) would rest on B (bracket)

The arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck.

The holes on the side opposite the arrow are for connector clips (remnants are still there)

The clip on the underside of the bracket would slip over the area of the dash support that has the trapezoid cutout. The dash photo is from my 86 where I flattened the hump as I didn't have another photo handy. So in yours where the cutout is it will be raised up.

If you went with one of these it looks like the supplied mic has a right angle end on it so it might clear without modifications needed.

Wow! THANKS! You found a good pic of the back of the radio, here for future reference, and figured out how to use the Ford bracket to mount it. Wonderful!

On the mic, maybe it can go in before the bracket goes on? Or the bracket spaced back? Is there any adjustment for depth?

So, now I need to find an E3ZF-18888-AA. (Yes, I know that's an ID#. ) I've found several of them with a quick search, so that shouldn't be hard.

Does it fit tightly over the support?

Again, THANKS! I would never have figured that out.

[kramttocs]

Wow! THANKS! You found a good pic of the back of the radio, here for future reference, and figured out how to use the Ford bracket to mount it. Wonderful!

On the mic, maybe it can go in before the bracket goes on? Or the bracket spaced back? Is there any adjustment for depth?

So, now I need to find an E3ZF-18888-AA. (Yes, I know that's an ID#. ) I've found several of them with a quick search, so that shouldn't be hard.

Does it fit tightly over the support?

Again, THANKS! I would never have figured that out.

Happy to help.

All of the ones I've pulled have been snug to where there is no concern of movement. Could squeeze the clip more or add some thickness to the dash support if wanted. There isn't any depth adjustment per se but the trapezoid may have some clearance that spacing the bracket a bit further back will work.

Or if needed you could take tin snips to both ends of the far side of the trapezoid, bend the new flap toward the front of the cab and squeeze flat. Would add both clearance and thickness (really don't think you'll need thickness though).

If the prices are crazy, let me know and you're welcome to one or both of these. I grabbed them since I wasn't sure how I was going to do mine.

[Gary Lewis]

Happy to help.

All of the ones I've pulled have been snug to where there is no concern of movement. Could squeeze the clip more or add some thickness to the dash support if wanted. There isn't any depth adjustment per se but the trapezoid may have some clearance that spacing the bracket a bit further back will work.

Or if needed you could take tin snips to both ends of the far side of the trapezoid, bend the new flap toward the front of the cab and squeeze flat. Would add both clearance and thickness (really don't think you'll need thickness though).

If the prices are crazy, let me know and you're welcome to one or both of these. I grabbed them since I wasn't sure how I was going to do mine.

Thanks for the offer. I supposedly found a NOS one at $7.99 but it won't let me order it saying "The offer is not up to date." I sent them an email so we will see.

Next up is $24.24 inc shipping. I'm inclined to order it, but it doesn't have the yellow connector clips that the NOS one does. Are they important?

I got notification that the new radio shipped today, so I probably ought to go ahead and order the $24 one if the clips aren't needed as when I get the switches wired I'll want to install the radio.

[kramttocs]

Thanks for the offer. I supposedly found a NOS one at $7.99 but it won't let me order it saying "The offer is not up to date." I sent them an email so we will see.

Next up is $24.24 inc shipping. I'm inclined to order it, but it doesn't have the yellow connector clips that the NOS one does. Are they important?

I got notification that the new radio shipped today, so I probably ought to go ahead and order the $24 one if the clips aren't needed as when I get the switches wired I'll want to install the radio.

I'd say they aren't since you could just as easily ziptie any wiring to the holes if needed.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd say they aren't since you could just as easily ziptie any wiring to the holes if needed.

Thanks, Scott. That was my expectation, but I wanted to be sure. Anyway, the $24 one is on order and should be here by next Saturday. Hopefully by then I'll have the switches and radio wired and be ready to install it.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Scott. That was my expectation, but I wanted to be sure. Anyway, the $24 one is on order and should be here by next Saturday. Hopefully by then I'll have the switches and radio wired and be ready to install it.

Didn't get much done on Big Blue today, but did some thinking about the storm which is to roll in early tomorrow morning. A couple of days ago we were to get 1 - 3" of snow. A few hours ago it was 4 - 6". And now it is 5 - 8" with blowing and drifting. And temps down to -9F Monday night.

So, the possibility of losing electricity exists. But all I'd have to do is to use BB's inverter to power the garage door in the shop and then drive him to the front of the house and use the inverter to power the furnace. I could run the furnace a while and then start the truck and charge the battery. The rear tank is full, so we could do that for quite a while.

Also, I did check out the brace in the radio opening. At first blush I was worried that http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/florida-man-42_orig.jpg might have been working on it, but I compared it to another dash I have and they are the same.

And it looks like I could cut the brace back a bit if I need to space the bracket away from the radio a bit to clear the microphone plug. But, I can come over the top so it shouldn't be a problem, as Jim said.

And, speaking of the microphone, I've been wondering where to put it. And then it dawned on me that I need to fill in the opening above the switches, as seen below. As it turns out the XLT from the original bezel fits in that opening nicely, so what I'm thinking is to fill the opening from the rear with a piece of black plastic and mount both the XLT and the mic to it. I could drill a hole in it and bring the mic through from the back.

Thoughts?