Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Scott and John.

I think it is all coming together, but there's lots more to do. The power and ground to the inverter should be done this week if the grommets come in soon. Then it is time to wire up Mission Control, and that is going to be a challenge.

I'm planning to use the clock connector that Scott sent me to provide power (switched, always hot, and marker lights) as well as ground to the switches in Mission control. And then I'll use separate 1/4" connectors for the other circuits.

But the clock connector doesn't have the LB/R wire that is for instrument lighting. And while that is available right below there on the radio, I wonder if just using the marker lamps power to illuminate the switch "marker" LEDs would be adequate?

I could put a resistor in the feed if they are too bright, but I run the instrument potentiometer at full brightness all the time, so don't see why this wouldn't work. And it would make the connections that much easier.

Thoughts?

[kramttocs]

I'm planning to use the clock connector that Scott sent me to provide power (switched, always hot, and marker lights) as well as ground to the switches in Mission control. And then I'll use separate 1/4" connectors for the other circuits.

But the clock connector doesn't have the LB/R wire that is for instrument lighting. And while that is available right below there on the radio, I wonder if just using the marker lamps power to illuminate the switch "marker" LEDs would be adequate?

I could put a resistor in the feed if they are too bright, but I run the instrument potentiometer at full brightness all the time, so don't see why this wouldn't work. And it would make the connections that much easier.

Thoughts?

I would use the marker lamps circuit initially and see how you like it. If you don't and want it to be controlled by the headlight switch dimmer, as you said, C333 is right there and would be an easy modification. I don't know that I would bother with the resistor option but that's me.

[Gary Lewis]

I would use the marker lamps circuit initially and see how you like it. If you don't and want it to be controlled by the headlight switch dimmer, as you said, C333 is right there and would be an easy modification. I don't know that I would bother with the resistor option but that's me.

Thanks, Scott. That's what I was thinking - go with the marker lights circuit as it is there and I'm already going to be using it for the fog light relay. And if later I want the LEDs to be dimmer then I can add a resistor.

By count it looks like I have 12 non-clock circuits, so I'm wondering about a small connector to use for them. Any suggestions?

Or, I could do as I'd planned and put female 1/4" connectors on everything and go right to the switch instead of having another connector.

Thoughts?

[kramttocs]

Thanks, Scott. That's what I was thinking - go with the marker lights circuit as it is there and I'm already going to be using it for the fog light relay. And if later I want the LEDs to be dimmer then I can add a resistor.

By count it looks like I have 12 non-clock circuits, so I'm wondering about a small connector to use for them. Any suggestions?

Or, I could do as I'd planned and put female 1/4" connectors on everything and go right to the switch instead of having another connector.

Thoughts?

Non-led circuits?

I'd go straight to the switch in your situation. With them being spade connectors vs directly soldered it won't be a big hassle to remove. Plus, the location is easily accessible - just tilt the radio bezel forward and unhook.

If you find yourself getting in there a lot and making changes you can add a connector inline later.

Maybe a Bill knows of a factory connector with at least 12 that isn't huge but Molex/mini-fit jr comes to mind. Small footprint and while it's a non-issue since they are driving relays, up to 9A per terminal.

[Gary Lewis]

Non-led circuits?

I'd go straight to the switch in your situation. With them being spade connectors vs directly soldered it won't be a big hassle to remove. Plus, the location is easily accessible - just tilt the radio bezel forward and unhook.

If you find yourself getting in there a lot and making changes you can add a connector inline later.

Maybe a Bill knows of a factory connector with at least 12 that isn't huge but Molex/mini-fit jr comes to mind. Small footprint and while it's a non-issue since they are driving relays, up to 9A per terminal.

The circuits to the OX locker, fog & backup light relays, etc. Here's what I've drawn up to this point:

[kramttocs]

The circuits to the OX locker, fog & backup light relays, etc. Here's what I've drawn up to this point:

Assumed 'non-clock' meant 'non-led' but wanted to check. Either way - we're on the same page.

I haven't looked back at the models you used for your switches but do they work with the contura connectors? If so that might be an option so you aren't hooking/unhooking the spades individually.

[Gary Lewis]

Assumed 'non-clock' meant 'non-led' but wanted to check. Either way - we're on the same page.

I haven't looked back at the models you used for your switches but do they work with the contura connectors? If so that might be an option so you aren't hooking/unhooking the spades individually.

The connectors will fit, but they are almost an inch deep and will force my turns back more than just using the female 1/4" connectors. And I don't have much room behind the switches.

My plan is to make a very tight harness of always hot, switched power, marker lights, and ground that ends in the clock connector. Then put female connectors on each of the 12 "other" wires and hook them up.

If I used the connectors I'd have to incorporate those wires into the connectors, along with the other 12 wires. That would mean all of the wiring has to be done on the truck, where I can make the harness on the bench.

Does that make sense? Am I missing something?

[Gary Lewis]

The connectors will fit, but they are almost an inch deep and will force my turns back more than just using the female 1/4" connectors. And I don't have much room behind the switches.

My plan is to make a very tight harness of always hot, switched power, marker lights, and ground that ends in the clock connector. Then put female connectors on each of the 12 "other" wires and hook them up.

If I used the connectors I'd have to incorporate those wires into the connectors, along with the other 12 wires. That would mean all of the wiring has to be done on the truck, where I can make the harness on the bench.

Does that make sense? Am I missing something?

Well guys, I need some help. I don't have the charcoal canisters on the truck, nor any way to recover the vapors they'd gather. But today I discovered that I have a fuel leak that is coming from the vapor line and I need ideas on how to best deal with it.

The leak is at the wye where the two vapor lines merge, and at that point the lines are 2" below the bottom of the rear tank. It appears that I got the rear tank full enough that when the gas expanded in the warm shop it went down the vapor line and started a siphon.

I really don't want to run the charcoal canisters and don't want the switching valves that would let either the carb or the EFI vent them. So for now I've capped the line where it was to go into the wye. But, what's the best way to handle that? Should I run a line up high under the bed and put a fuel filter on it so varmints can't get it?

Thoughts?

And, for your humor, today it got cold enough for me to finally wear the coat I got last year, shown below. But when I started out to the shop I decided I didn't want to bring it out here 'cause I don't want it to absorb the smells. And then I opened the door and was struck with a strong gas smell from that leak.

[kramttocs]

The connectors will fit, but they are almost an inch deep and will force my turns back more than just using the female 1/4" connectors. And I don't have much room behind the switches.

My plan is to make a very tight harness of always hot, switched power, marker lights, and ground that ends in the clock connector. Then put female connectors on each of the 12 "other" wires and hook them up.

If I used the connectors I'd have to incorporate those wires into the connectors, along with the other 12 wires. That would mean all of the wiring has to be done on the truck, where I can make the harness on the bench.

Does that make sense? Am I missing something?

You could un-tang (?) the terminals from the connectors if needed but it does make it a more complex, intertwined harness. Plus with the size issue, sounds like there isn't really a benefit.

With that, I am back to wiring all the non-clock circuits directly to the switches with female 1/4s and if in the future you need to add a connector for whatever reason you can.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well guys, I need some help. I don't have the charcoal canisters on the truck, nor any way to recover the vapors they'd gather. But today I discovered that I have a fuel leak that is coming from the vapor line and I need ideas on how to best deal with it.

The leak is at the wye where the two vapor lines merge, and at that point the lines are 2" below the bottom of the rear tank. It appears that I got the rear tank full enough that when the gas expanded in the warm shop it went down the vapor line and started a siphon.

I really don't want to run the charcoal canisters and don't want the switching valves that would let either the carb or the EFI vent them. So for now I've capped the line where it was to go into the wye. But, what's the best way to handle that? Should I run a line up high under the bed and put a fuel filter on it so varmints can't get it?

Thoughts?

And, for your humor, today it got cold enough for me to finally wear the coat I got last year, shown below. But when I started out to the shop I decided I didn't want to bring it out here 'cause I don't want it to absorb the smells. And then I opened the door and was struck with a strong gas smell from that leak.

I don't know how the evap can siphon a tank.

The rollover valve is (and ends) right up in the grommet at the top.

But it will certainly drain any fuel left in the fill hose, and allow expanding fuel a route out.

Btw, does your later OBD system check for a sealed system, and would it throw a code (unless you turned it off in software)?

It's almost like you would want a check valve or solenoid on that vent, so it could vent negative pressure but not allow fumes to escape.

And in that respect having a charcoal canister really seems the kiss solution.