Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, as promised here are the pictures of the Motorcraft BRS-83 seal.

First, the oil side, this is the portion next to the slinger and bearing cone and rollers.

The inner part is stationary and goes over the axle tube, there is a bit of float to the pieces.

Second the air side, the two portions of the metal shell are visible in the picture, when you pull the hub, the seal will separate at the joint as the inner sleeve will be stuck to the tube. The installer tool has a recess for the protruding inner portion of the shell.

And finally, the box label with the PNs on it, for some reason the F didn't print.

Thanks, Bill. That looks like the Scotseal. I wonder what ID and OD it is. I've found it online, but not sizes. Any idea?

Jim - If I can find it the right size that would be a good solution.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Bill. That looks like the Scotseal. I wonder what ID and OD it is. I've found it online, but not sizes. Any idea?

Jim - If I can find it the right size that would be a good solution.

I used to know all three of the 'pickers' at my local bearing distributor Kaman bearing.

Of course that was years ago, and they've been made obsolete by computers and robots that pull orders and control inventory.

The women in the sales office know the product, but not like someone who spent 30 years handling it.

I'll look back at your posts and note the seal number, look up the id, od & depth.

Then call and see if they have one that fits.

Even though they don't like selling onesies, twosies, they are usually helpful.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I used to know all three of the 'pickers' at my local bearing distributor Kaman bearing.

Of course that was years ago, and they've been made obsolete by computers and robots that pull orders and control inventory.

The women in the sales office know the product, but not like someone who spent 30 years handling it.

I'll look back at your posts and note the seal number, look up the id, od & depth.

Then call and see if they have one that fits.

Even though they don't like selling onesies, twosies, they are usually helpful.

That would be great! And if the sizes don't jump out at you just let me know and I'll get them for you. I could return the speedi-sleeves as they aren't quite right for the job as they are too wide, so are going to be a pain to install & then trim.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks, Bill. That looks like the Scotseal. I wonder what ID and OD it is. I've found it online, but not sizes. Any idea?

Jim - If I can find it the right size that would be a good solution.

I can measure it, but, if you go to some of the other seal listings you should be able to find it. As far as I know the rear full floating hubs on the Sterling 10.25" are the same physical size from 1985-1997 (the hubs on this 1996 axle had E5 casting numbers). The seal for my original axle comes up with these dimensions: Rear; 3.938 ID X 5.509 OD X 0.875 Thick from Rock Auto's listing (this is a Motorcraft BRS37) the thickness would be the only real difference as the OD and ID didn't change.

[Gary Lewis]

I can measure it, but, if you go to some of the other seal listings you should be able to find it. As far as I know the rear full floating hubs on the Sterling 10.25" are the same physical size from 1985-1997 (the hubs on this 1996 axle had E5 casting numbers). The seal for my original axle comes up with these dimensions: Rear; 3.938 ID X 5.509 OD X 0.875 Thick from Rock Auto's listing (this is a Motorcraft BRS37) the thickness would be the only real difference as the OD and ID didn't change.

Bill - Thanks, but I'm confused. I'm looking for a similar seal for the D60 front axle. But are you thinking that if I go looking for that seal with the right dimensions I might then be able to find its brother with the dimensions I need for the front?

(Sorry, but I'm a bit slow. Maybe 'cause I've only had one cup of Joe?)

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Thanks, but I'm confused. I'm looking for a similar seal for the D60 front axle. But are you thinking that if I go looking for that seal with the right dimensions I might then be able to find its brother with the dimensions I need for the front?

(Sorry, but I'm a bit slow. Maybe 'cause I've only had one cup of Joe?)

Try looking for updated seals in the TSB files for the D60, also look at some of the 4WD sites for suggestions and fixes for the worn spindle. Sorry I can't be of more help, but most of my 4WD work was on sealed axle ends. I think the last Fords with those were 1973 models.

[Gary Lewis]

Try looking for updated seals in the TSB files for the D60, also look at some of the 4WD sites for suggestions and fixes for the worn spindle. Sorry I can't be of more help, but most of my 4WD work was on sealed axle ends. I think the last Fords with those were 1973 models.

Ok guys, I did a bunch of searching and perusing of catalogs today and couldn't come up with the right replacement seal like the one on the 10.25". So I finally sent a note to Timken/National asking them if they have a seal like that, and gave them the dimensions needed.

 

Meanwhile, back at the house, the repair sleeves came. So I compared one of them to the spindle and did some measuring. The radius from the bearing/seal surface to the face of the spindle is 5/16", and the radius on the sleeve to the flange is 1/8". So it wasn't likely that the flange of the sleeve would go up against the face of the spindle. But it might come close.

 

So I cleaned the spindle and put the sleeve on the way the instructions say it must go on - with the flange first. Then I grabbed the driver that came with it - which you can see in a previous picture is a shallow cup. Nope, that's not going over the spindle. But, an old bearing was a perfect fit and would ensure the sleeve was driven on squarely. However, I still needed a way to drive the bearing evenly. Turns out I have lots of tubing exactly the right size. I cut a piece off with the band saw and squared the ends on the lathe. And here's how it all went together:

 

 

 

But the repair sleeve is a bit too wide, so here's a shot of trimming it with the lathe:

 

 

 

And here's the completed spindle. You can see that the repair sleeve's flange isn't quite against the flange of the spindle, but that's as far as it was going on. And you can see the groove in the repair sleeve where the flange could be broken off in some applications, but it is well out of the way from where the new seal is going to ride.

 

So I think this one's good to go and I'll get the other one on tomorrow. Oh yes, I picked up the nuts, bolts, and washers to put the perches on, so have the perches well and truly fastened in place. Hopefully that change as well as replacing the loose Huck fastener will fix the pop I was hearing on the truck when I went from reverse to forward or turned a tight corner.

 

[Rembrant]

Ok guys, I did a bunch of searching and perusing of catalogs today and couldn't come up with the right replacement seal like the one on the 10.25". So I finally sent a note to Timken/National asking them if they have a seal like that, and gave them the dimensions needed.

 

Meanwhile, back at the house, the repair sleeves came. So I compared one of them to the spindle and did some measuring. The radius from the bearing/seal surface to the face of the spindle is 5/16", and the radius on the sleeve to the flange is 1/8". So it wasn't likely that the flange of the sleeve would go up against the face of the spindle. But it might come close.

 

So I cleaned the spindle and put the sleeve on the way the instructions say it must go on - with the flange first. Then I grabbed the driver that came with it - which you can see in a previous picture is a shallow cup. Nope, that's not going over the spindle. But, an old bearing was a perfect fit and would ensure the sleeve was driven on squarely. However, I still needed a way to drive the bearing evenly. Turns out I have lots of tubing exactly the right size. I cut a piece off with the band saw and squared the ends on the lathe. And here's how it all went together:

 

 

 

But the repair sleeve is a bit too wide, so here's a shot of trimming it with the lathe:

 

 

 

And here's the completed spindle. You can see that the repair sleeve's flange isn't quite against the flange of the spindle, but that's as far as it was going on. And you can see the groove in the repair sleeve where the flange could be broken off in some applications, but it is well out of the way from where the new seal is going to ride.

 

So I think this one's good to go and I'll get the other one on tomorrow. Oh yes, I picked up the nuts, bolts, and washers to put the perches on, so have the perches well and truly fastened in place. Hopefully that change as well as replacing the loose Huck fastener will fix the pop I was hearing on the truck when I went from reverse to forward or turned a tight corner.

 

Looks like a good repair Gary. Handy having machining gear huh?

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like a good repair Gary. Handy having machining gear huh?

Thanks, Cory!

Yes, it really is handy to have a "machine shop" when it comes to working on these trucks. I just told Janey that I really enjoy working in my shop. Today was one of those golden moments when I was able to use a wide range of tools to get things done.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Cory!Yes, it really is handy to have a "machine shop" when it comes to working on these trucks. I just told Janey that I really enjoy working in my shop. Today was one of those golden moments when I was able to use a wide range of tools to get things done.

Today I got the other spindle repaired, and thought y'all might like seeing .010" trimmed off of it:

 

EDIT: I should have said that the repair sleeve was about 1/8" too long, so did need to be trimmed. If I'd not had a lathe with which to do that I probably would have broken the flange off on that parting line and pressed the sleeve on w/o the flange. The instructions say you shouldn't do that, but if you are careful I think it could be done - assuming you use an old bearing to ensure you are pressing the sleeve on squarely.