Big Blue's Transformation

[Bruce moose4x4]

Shaun - As for Roughstuff, are you saying their u-bolts are bigger? Stronger?

Gary, I first picked up a set of these U-bolts, but was not impressed with the quality or how they felt.

I decided to order them from Ruff-Stuff since I'm running a set on my white Ranger and really liked them, and the difference in quality was substantial. The u-bolts from RuffStuff are heavier, and feel much more robust than the Zone version.

Also, I found that with the 4" blocks, I needed a 12" length u-bolt as the 10" version wasn't going to be long enough per my measurements.

From the RuffStuff site:

"All of our Ubolts are Grade 8 with rolled threads. Cut threads are much weaker than Rolled. Cut threads actually remove material while rolled retain all the original material. They also come with True Tall Nuts and 3/16" Thick Hardened Washers which retain their shape while under the torque loads required."

Gary, this place is on the northeast side of Tulsa. They can make u-bolts any size??

FleetPride Tulsa Parts

16114 East Admiral Place North

Tulsa, OK 74116

(918) 836-1725

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, this place is on the northeast side of Tulsa. They can make u-bolts any size??

FleetPride Tulsa Parts

16114 East Admiral Place North

Tulsa, OK 74116

(918) 836-1725

Sadly our local Fleetpride closed shop and there are now condos there.

The 100 or so cars scuttling around the neighborhood on a one way street haven't helped either.

Dave will know this as the access road southbound exit 6.

[Gary Lewis]

Sadly our local Fleetpride closed shop and there are now condos there.

The 100 or so cars scuttling around the neighborhood on a one way street haven't helped either.

Dave will know this as the access road southbound exit 6.

Shaun - That's really good to know. UBoltsDirect says that their 3/8-9/16" bolts are G5 equiv, and 5/8" and above are G8 equiv. I'll have to measure and see what size these are, but I'm going to guess that they are 9/16". So Ruff-Stuff sounds better, especially with rolled threads.

Bruce - Thanks, but we are doing our best to stay out of stores, shops, etc. So I think I'd prefer to order the u-bolts. But I do thank you, and if this were another time I'd probably head down that way as soon as I'm sure that I want to go with the softer suspension.

As previously said, tomorrow I'm going to lay out where the air box and PDB will go. The reason for that at this time is with the bits and pieces now in hand to do the inverter wiring I need to know where the big accessory relay is going to go. And the battery isolator. Etc. Then I need to revise the cabling for those things and the aux battery.

In fact, I need to put the EFI PDB in place as it will have the termination for the wire coming across the radiator support from the other PDB, alternator, etc. Plus, the relays for the fog lights and extra backup lights will be in there, along with a few other relays.

Here's what I'm thinking. Thoughts?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Shaun - That's really good to know. UBoltsDirect says that their 3/8-9/16" bolts are G5 equiv, and 5/8" and above are G8 equiv. I'll have to measure and see what size these are, but I'm going to guess that they are 9/16". So Ruff-Stuff sounds better, especially with rolled threads.

Bruce - Thanks, but we are doing our best to stay out of stores, shops, etc. So I think I'd prefer to order the u-bolts. But I do thank you, and if this were another time I'd probably head down that way as soon as I'm sure that I want to go with the softer suspension.

As previously said, tomorrow I'm going to lay out where the air box and PDB will go. The reason for that at this time is with the bits and pieces now in hand to do the inverter wiring I need to know where the big accessory relay is going to go. And the battery isolator. Etc. Then I need to revise the cabling for those things and the aux battery.

In fact, I need to put the EFI PDB in place as it will have the termination for the wire coming across the radiator support from the other PDB, alternator, etc. Plus, the relays for the fog lights and extra backup lights will be in there, along with a few other relays.

Here's what I'm thinking. Thoughts?

What's your alternative?

Coming across the cowl below the hood seal, like an AC line?

[Gary Lewis]

What's your alternative?

Coming across the cowl below the hood seal, like an AC line?

If you mean the alternative to the wire coming across the radiator support, I'm planning on not changing that. What I'm debating is where the battery isolator, aux relay, coolant recovery, and windshield washer reservoirs will go.

Note that I listed the coolant recovery and windshield washer reservoirs separately. That's because I may split them and put them in two different places due to lack of space.

[kramttocs]

If you mean the alternative to the wire coming across the radiator support, I'm planning on not changing that. What I'm debating is where the battery isolator, aux relay, coolant recovery, and windshield washer reservoirs will go.

Note that I listed the coolant recovery and windshield washer reservoirs separately. That's because I may split them and put them in two different places due to lack of space.

I thought you were moving the fuel/trailer relays to the pdb and putting both isolator and relay on the firewall?

[Gary Lewis]

I thought you were moving the fuel/trailer relays to the pdb and putting both isolator and relay on the firewall?

That's the plan. And add the aux battery voltmeter relay to the move into the PDB. But I want to see that said plan is going to work.

Also, there's a worry that there's not quite enough of the yellow wire coming from the other side to get to the EFI PDB. If that's the case I'm wondering if there might be enough room to squeeze the battery isolator between the aux battery and the PDB, and then terminate the yellow wire on the isolator.

So before I start making expensive cables I want to know how it will all fit.

[Gary Lewis]

That's the plan. And add the aux battery voltmeter relay to the move into the PDB. But I want to see that said plan is going to work.

Also, there's a worry that there's not quite enough of the yellow wire coming from the other side to get to the EFI PDB. If that's the case I'm wondering if there might be enough room to squeeze the battery isolator between the aux battery and the PDB, and then terminate the yellow wire on the isolator.

So before I start making expensive cables I want to know how it will all fit.

Ok, I did some measuring and dreaming and scheming and I think I have a plan. But I'd like y'all to tell me what you think of the plan.

First, here's the driver's fender area showing where the EFI air box is supposed to sit. The red lines should be the front and back edges of it, and you can see that both the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir and the battery isolator have to move.

I think the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir will go to the opposite side, as shown below. But that means I'll have to move the vacuum reservoir and the jack. The reservoir is a piece of cake as the new HVAC housing has one built in, as shown by the yellow oval. And the jack will just be removed as I carry a hydraulic bottle jack in the toolbox that has more lift and capacity.

That leads me to the new location of the battery isolator. In the pic below of the wiring harness I've pointed to the connection point on the PDB for the cable coming from the passenger's side. The harness is laid out basically the way it is supposed to go in, with the arrow pointing toward the firewall. That means that the power wire from the other side has to come to the back side of the PDB, and for whatever reason there isn't that much slack. I think that's because of where I tied it in on the passenger's side, which is into the megafuse on the PDB instead of wherever Ford had it on the donor vehicle. In any event, it isn't long enough.

So I'm thinking of placing the battery isolator below the air intake box. It looks like there is just enough room, and it would allow the wire that is already there from the other side to connect up w/o a problem.

However, there are two problems. First, if someone drops a tool onto the fender liner and it slides down there it could easily cause a spark or two, so I'd probably want to protect the connections. But it also means that to get to the battery isolator the air box has to come out. However, that's not all that difficult as taking off the inlet hose and pulling 3 screws would have it off easily.

So, what are your thoughts?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I did some measuring and dreaming and scheming and I think I have a plan. But I'd like y'all to tell me what you think of the plan.

First, here's the driver's fender area showing where the EFI air box is supposed to sit. The red lines should be the front and back edges of it, and you can see that both the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir and the battery isolator have to move.

I think the coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir will go to the opposite side, as shown below. But that means I'll have to move the vacuum reservoir and the jack. The reservoir is a piece of cake as the new HVAC housing has one built in, as shown by the yellow oval. And the jack will just be removed as I carry a hydraulic bottle jack in the toolbox that has more lift and capacity.

That leads me to the new location of the battery isolator. In the pic below of the wiring harness I've pointed to the connection point on the PDB for the cable coming from the passenger's side. The harness is laid out basically the way it is supposed to go in, with the arrow pointing toward the firewall. That means that the power wire from the other side has to come to the back side of the PDB, and for whatever reason there isn't that much slack. I think that's because of where I tied it in on the passenger's side, which is into the megafuse on the PDB instead of wherever Ford had it on the donor vehicle. In any event, it isn't long enough.

So I'm thinking of placing the battery isolator below the air intake box. It looks like there is just enough room, and it would allow the wire that is already there from the other side to connect up w/o a problem.

However, there are two problems. First, if someone drops a tool onto the fender liner and it slides down there it could easily cause a spark or two, so I'd probably want to protect the connections. But it also means that to get to the battery isolator the air box has to come out. However, that's not all that difficult as taking off the inlet hose and pulling 3 screws would have it off easily.

So, what are your thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

Would you care to elaborate? I’m having difficulty reading between the lines.