ArdWrknTrk Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Yippee! Just got notification that my order of wiring stuff for the inverter has shipped. When it gets here I can finally get started wiring up the inverter and then installing the compressor! Items Ordered: Price: Status: 1 of : 505103-025 QuickCable 1/2" Nylon Split Loom (25 ft) $20.90 Shipped 1 of : 5663-001B QuickCable 1" x 48" Black Double Wall Heat Shrink Tubing $18.24 Shipped 2 of : 6401-005E QuickCable 2 & 1 GA 5/16" Stud Straight MagnaLug (5 Pack) $23.32 Shipped Moar Power!!! 💪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Moar Power!!! 💪 Yes, I'll be able to make some progress and have another form of "power". But I have a question for y'all. I'm hearing a rattle or clunk in the front suspension. I checked ALL of the fasteners and none were loose. But a couple of weeks ago I found that the LF wheel bearings were loose and went back through the process of: Tighten the inner nut to 50 lb ft Backing the inner nut off 90 degrees Installing the lock washer Tightening the outer lock nut to 160 - 205 lb ft The right side didn't seem to be loose then, but now I think it is. And I'm still hearing a clunk or rattle. Or maybe again. Do I just adjust the right side or pull them down and inspect the bearings? I've felt the hubs after long drives and they aren't even warm, so I don't think I have bearing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Yes, I'll be able to make some progress and have another form of "power". But I have a question for y'all. I'm hearing a rattle or clunk in the front suspension. I checked ALL of the fasteners and none were loose. But a couple of weeks ago I found that the LF wheel bearings were loose and went back through the process of: Tighten the inner nut to 50 lb ft Backing the inner nut off 90 degrees Installing the lock washer Tightening the outer lock nut to 160 - 205 lb ft The right side didn't seem to be loose then, but now I think it is. And I'm still hearing a clunk or rattle. Or maybe again. Do I just adjust the right side or pull them down and inspect the bearings? I've felt the hubs after long drives and they aren't even warm, so I don't think I have bearing problems. I'd just put it up on the lift and try shaking the tire, top and bottom. If you feel clunks then you know you didn't seat the races all the way the first time. I'm not sure how that procedure differs for new races V/ reinstalling with the old races left in place. But then, I don't use the book either. I just follow my Shadetree ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 I'd just put it up on the lift and try shaking the tire, top and bottom. If you feel clunks then you know you didn't seat the races all the way the first time. I'm not sure how that procedure differs for new races V/ reinstalling with the old races left in place. But then, I don't use the book either. I just follow my Shadetree ways. What are your "shadetree ways"? I find it odd that I'm supposed to back the inner nut off 90 degrees and that would seem to loosen things dramatically. But apparently the ~200 lb-ft of torque on the outer nut tightens it back up. Another thing I didn't mention, but should have, is that there is an end-play spec in the book. I'm thinking that I should test them that way before I tighten anything and then again after. I don't believe there are any illustrations showing how to test end play, but I'm sure having the magnetic base on the rotor and the arm on the end of the spindle would be the right approach. I think that's what I'm going to work on today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 What are your "shadetree ways"?I find it odd that I'm supposed to back the inner nut off 90 degrees and that would seem to loosen things dramatically. But apparently the ~200 lb-ft of torque on the outer nut tightens it back up.Another thing I didn't mention, but should have, is that there is an end-play spec in the book. I'm thinking that I should test them that way before I tighten anything and then again after. I don't believe there are any illustrations showing how to test end play, but I'm sure having the magnetic base on the rotor and the arm on the end of the spindle would be the right approach.I think that's what I'm going to work on today.Well, with the truck on the lift I couldn't get the wheel bearings to make noise. But I did hear another noise that sounded just like what I was hearing. Turns out that the Nylon insulators between the springs are gone, and allowing the springs to clang into each other on bumps. I'll post later on what I'm going to do about it.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Well, with the truck on the lift I couldn't get the wheel bearings to make noise. But I did hear another noise that sounded just like what I was hearing. Turns out that the Nylon insulators between the springs are gone, and allowing the springs to clang into each other on bumps. I'll post later on what I'm going to do about it.  Spring slider pads are cheap on eBay.I have a bunch (because my springs are so pitted) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Spring slider pads are cheap on eBay. I have a bunch (because my springs are so pitted) Yes, but there's a pack of springs on the rear of this truck that have essentially new sliders. And some of those springs are already destined to come out, as described here. And, I have some of the special spring spacer stuff left over from renewing the rear springs on Dad's truck. So..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 What are your "shadetree ways"? I find it odd that I'm supposed to back the inner nut off 90 degrees and that would seem to loosen things dramatically. But apparently the ~200 lb-ft of torque on the outer nut tightens it back up. Another thing I didn't mention, but should have, is that there is an end-play spec in the book. I'm thinking that I should test them that way before I tighten anything and then again after. I don't believe there are any illustrations showing how to test end play, but I'm sure having the magnetic base on the rotor and the arm on the end of the spindle would be the right approach. I think that's what I'm going to work on today. I can't say I've ever checked end-play (even by hand) after backing the inner nut off and then again after tightening the outer nut. But it makes sense that the play would go down. Without the outer nut tightened the inner nut will move out through the thread clearance. With the outer nut pushing on it it would move to the inner side of the thread clearance. So it should reduce the end play by at least the thread clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 What are your "shadetree ways"? I find it odd that I'm supposed to back the inner nut off 90 degrees and that would seem to loosen things dramatically. But apparently the ~200 lb-ft of torque on the outer nut tightens it back up. Another thing I didn't mention, but should have, is that there is an end-play spec in the book. I'm thinking that I should test them that way before I tighten anything and then again after. I don't believe there are any illustrations showing how to test end play, but I'm sure having the magnetic base on the rotor and the arm on the end of the spindle would be the right approach. I think that's what I'm going to work on today. I can't say I've ever checked end-play (even by hand) after backing the inner nut off and then again after tightening the outer nut. But it makes sense that the play would go down. Without the outer nut tightened the inner nut will move out through the thread clearance. With the outer nut pushing on it it would move to the inner side of the thread clearance. So it should reduce the end play by at least the thread clearance. I agree. Apparently the torque takes out quite a bit of slack. And if I wanted to get precise I could check end play. But I think I've found the source of the noise that I was attributing to the wheel bearings. And since I can't get either side to wiggle I'm going to leave the bearings alone and fix the noise caused by the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 I agree. Apparently the torque takes out quite a bit of slack. And if I wanted to get precise I could check end play. But I think I've found the source of the noise that I was attributing to the wheel bearings. And since I can't get either side to wiggle I'm going to leave the bearings alone and fix the noise caused by the springs. With fresh races I tighten the inner nut (while turning) until the wheel won't rotate on it's own, at all. I back the nut off, torque to spec and back off until it does spin. I then tighten the outer nut and check it is still not binding. After a drive I check for heat. If there's nothing obvious I call it good. I've never checked for end play with a test indicator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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