ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 I used the impact to get them off last time, but found that low range and 1st gear with the brake set was enough to torque it back up. How are you going to set the brake with the driveshaft disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 How are you going to set the brake with the driveshaft disconnected? You could put it in 4x4 and literally throw a wrench in the works, somewhere up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 You could put it in 4x4 and literally throw a wrench in the works, somewhere up front. Good point. Perhaps I was thinking of the front yoke. For the rear I could, and maybe did, put a 15/16" on a breakover and lock the engine via the balancer bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Good point. Perhaps I was thinking of the front yoke. For the rear I could, and maybe did, put a 15/16" on a breakover and lock the engine via the balancer bolt. Here's another option. https://bleepinjeep.com/product/yoke-wrench-tool/ If you're familiar with BleepinJeep, he's a YouTuber that has a small selection of stuff for sale. He makes these tools to hold a yoke while turning the nut. Or it wouldn't be that difficult to make something like it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 Here's another option. https://bleepinjeep.com/product/yoke-wrench-tool/ If you're familiar with BleepinJeep, he's a YouTuber that has a small selection of stuff for sale. He makes these tools to hold a yoke while turning the nut. Or it wouldn't be that difficult to make something like it either. I'm not familiar with him, but you are right - it would be EASY to make a tool. Several approaches, but I have angle and plate, so a piece of plate drilled to take the bolts and a hole in the middle for the socket, with a piece of angle welded to it would do the trick easily. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I'm not familiar with him, but you are right - it would be EASY to make a tool. Several approaches, but I have angle and plate, so a piece of plate drilled to take the bolts and a hole in the middle for the socket, with a piece of angle welded to it would do the trick easily. Thanks! Well, I don't think the drive gear is the problem. I mean, if I just rest my finger on it through the speedo hole and rotate the output shaft it seems to rotate. That's ok, right? Surely it should slip like it does when you push moderately on the gear, right? Shouldn't it take a hard push to make it slip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Well, I don't think the drive gear is the problem. I mean, if I just rest my finger on it through the speedo hole and rotate the output shaft it seems to rotate. That's ok, right? Surely it should slip like it does when you push moderately on the gear, right? Shouldn't it take a hard push to make it slip? I don't know how those gears are keyed to the shaft. But if you need a 7 or 8 anyhow, why not just order one so you know exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I don't know how those gears are keyed to the shaft. But if you need a 7 or 8 anyhow, why not just order one so you know exactly? I want to get it out to make sure what I have. If it is a 7 or 8 then that's what I want to go back with as the speedo is now spot-on. Making the tool to hold the yoke now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I want to get it out to make sure what I have. If it is a 7 or 8 then that's what I want to go back with as the speedo is now spot-on. Making the tool to hold the yoke now.... Two things to report. First, I made a tool with which to remove and install the yoke. Works good, at least for removal. Started with an 1/8" piece of strap and I drilled it to take the 4 bolts and then put a 1 3/4" hole in the center for the socket. Then I ground the last 1 1/4" of a 15" long piece of 1" x 1" angle down to just slip in the bearing cap opening, and welded it to the strap where the welds wouldn't hit the yoke. The 15" allows it to catch the right side frame for removing the yoke, and it'll go up against the floor of the cab for installation. Here's a shot of the welds on the front side: And here's a shot with a yoke sitting on it: Now, here's a shot of it in use: Once I got the tool installed I found that the nut on the yoke wasn't torqued down as it should have been. The speedo gear is supposed to be sandwiched between the yoke and the output bearing's inner race, forcing it to turn. And, if it isn't tight it'll slip. So this was self-inflicted. But, to find that out I needed to pull the yoke and remove the seal, ruining it of course. But then the speedo gear just slides out. Turns out it is in perfect shape, so I just need to order a new seal and put it back together. Here are a couple of shots of the gear: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Two things to report. First, I made a tool with which to remove and install the yoke. Works good, at least for removal. Started with an 1/8" piece of strap and I drilled it to take the 4 bolts and then put a 1 3/4" hole in the center for the socket. Then I ground the last 1 1/4" of a 15" long piece of 1" x 1" angle down to just slip in the bearing cap opening, and welded it to the strap where the welds wouldn't hit the yoke. The 15" allows it to catch the right side frame for removing the yoke, and it'll go up against the floor of the cab for installation. Here's a shot of the welds on the front side: And here's a shot with a yoke sitting on it: Now, here's a shot of it in use: Once I got the tool installed I found that the nut on the yoke wasn't torqued down as it should have been. The speedo gear is supposed to be sandwiched between the yoke and the output bearing's inner race, forcing it to turn. And, if it isn't tight it'll slip. So this was self-inflicted. But, to find that out I needed to pull the yoke and remove the seal, ruining it of course. But then the speedo gear just slides out. Turns out it is in perfect shape, so I just need to order a new seal and put it back together. Here are a couple of shots of the gear: Glad the splines didn't fret with all the driving you've been doing. So, is it the gear you want? Or are you going to try another (that will get you back in the middle of the range of driven gears available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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