Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Drive gears for a 1345 are molded on a metal sleeve, while my 1356 takes just a plastic gear with a keyway on the inside that captures a metal ball in the output shaft.

Judging by the numbers Gary's style was in use for a long time.

C3 is as old as I am.

But I notice there is no yellow gear, like I have, so these must be the sleeve type drive gears.

Thanks Jim.

That huge range of dates is what was throwing me. I didn't expect the same gear to work in a number of applications.

Did a quick google and see that Gary answered it over on FTE awhile back:

And I know the same gear works in a C6, NP435, NP208, and BW1356, so that fits with what the catalog is showing. As for the drive gear, the one in the t-case, see below.

From what you are saying the 1356 above may be a typo of 1345. (I haven't read the entire thread where I grabbed that from)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim.

That huge range of dates is what was throwing me. I didn't expect the same gear to work in a number of applications.

Did a quick google and see that Gary answered it over on FTE awhile back:

And I know the same gear works in a C6, NP435, NP208, and BW1356, so that fits with what the catalog is showing. As for the drive gear, the one in the t-case, see below.

From what you are saying the 1356 above may be a typo of 1345. (I haven't read the entire thread where I grabbed that from)

Must be a typo, because I know my 1356 doesn't accept this (sleeve) style of drive gear.

Hopefully Gary can fish it out the back rather than having to split the case.

But I'm not sure how it is retained.

Can it rely solely on axial thrust due to the helix?

What happens when you're backing up?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim.

That huge range of dates is what was throwing me. I didn't expect the same gear to work in a number of applications.

Did a quick google and see that Gary answered it over on FTE awhile back:

And I know the same gear works in a C6, NP435, NP208, and BW1356, so that fits with what the catalog is showing. As for the drive gear, the one in the t-case, see below.

From what you are saying the 1356 above may be a typo of 1345. (I haven't read the entire thread where I grabbed that from)

I look at the chart Gary linked above and my application '87 1356 4.10 gears shows three different gears for Bronco, 150 & 250.

I know the Bronco 1356 had an output flange, and perhaps some trucks had fixed yoke, while mine has a slip yoke.

So maybe the fixed yoke version of the 1356 does take that sleeved drive gear? IDK

I can only speak of what I have my hands on, and I've certainly not seen it all.

[kramttocs]

I look at the chart Gary linked above and my application '87 1356 4.10 gears shows three different gears for Bronco, 150 & 250.

I know the Bronco 1356 had an output flange, and perhaps some trucks had fixed yoke, while mine has a slip yoke.

So maybe the fixed yoke version of the 1356 does take that sleeved drive gear? IDK

I can only speak of what I have my hands on, and I've certainly not seen it all.

Looks like he should be good without much disassembly: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/tc-drive-gear-replacement.219925/

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Looks like he should be good without much disassembly: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/tc-drive-gear-replacement.219925/

Removing the nut on the forward yoke of my transfer case was a bear without it connected to anything.

Perhaps if he sets it in low range and 1st Gary can work against compression.

The again, Gary has a powerful impact wrench and a lift.

I'm not sure that's the best way to torque it back up though.

[85lebaront2]

Removing the nut on the forward yoke of my transfer case was a bear without it connected to anything.

Perhaps if he sets it in low range and 1st Gary can work against compression.

The again, Gary has a powerful impact wrench and a lift.

I'm not sure that's the best way to torque it back up though.

When I was rebuilding my buddy's 10.25" Sterling out of the truck, I used a big Stilson wrench in a piece of exhaust pipe as a reaction arm. I used a big C-clamp to keep it on as it had to go on the bottom side of the yoke. That way I could torque it properly once I got the bearing preload with a used nut. On his lift under the truck he could probably get it on the top side and not need the C-clamp.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like he should be good without much disassembly: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/tc-drive-gear-replacement.219925/

That's encouraging. Thanks, Scott.

I may get to it tomorrow, but may not. Greg, my Nabble mentor, came up with an interesting idea about the time he went to bed tonight (6 my time & midnight his) and I may want to follow that up tomorrow after church. We shall see.

According to the previously posted table as well as this table a BW1345 should have either a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear. Not sure how this one got what appears to be a 6. But that would explain why I might need to go to a smaller driven gear but can't. IOW, if I have to replace it I may want to go with a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear to give a bit more range on the driven gear.

[Gary Lewis]

When I was rebuilding my buddy's 10.25" Sterling out of the truck, I used a big Stilson wrench in a piece of exhaust pipe as a reaction arm. I used a big C-clamp to keep it on as it had to go on the bottom side of the yoke. That way I could torque it properly once I got the bearing preload with a used nut. On his lift under the truck he could probably get it on the top side and not need the C-clamp.

I used the impact to get them off last time, but found that low range and 1st gear with the brake set was enough to torque it back up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's encouraging. Thanks, Scott.

I may get to it tomorrow, but may not. Greg, my Nabble mentor, came up with an interesting idea about the time he went to bed tonight (6 my time & midnight his) and I may want to follow that up tomorrow after church. We shall see.

According to the previously posted table as well as this table a BW1345 should have either a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear. Not sure how this one got what appears to be a 6. But that would explain why I might need to go to a smaller driven gear but can't. IOW, if I have to replace it I may want to go with a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear to give a bit more range on the driven gear.

What's your tire diameter now, Gary?

My 235/85 R-16's clock right around 31" new.

I assume that's what your door tag reads?

[Gary Lewis]

What's your tire diameter now, Gary?

My 235/85 R-16's clock right around 31" new.

I assume that's what your door tag reads?

These tires are 33's.