salans7 Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Sorry about that. Best of luck with Bob's method. Sounds like a good backup plan. Shoulda seen what it took me to get the ball joint and tie-rod nuts loose. Just about had them on fire before they finally decided to budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 The first time I tried to get spindles off (it was on my '85 F-250) I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't know about the slide hammer approach, so I had to "get crafty on it." I took a piece of 3/8" mild steel plate and bored a hole in it that was a fairly close fit over the spindle threads. Then I put some stand-offs between the plate and some solid points on the knuckle (one on each side of center, I used deep-well sockets) and tightened a spindle nut down as tight as I could with a breaker bar (no hammering or cheater bar or anything). Then I took a big hammer and whacked the plate a couple times where each stand-off was. Then I could get another degree or two on the spindle nut with the breaker bar. I just kept repeating that until the spindle came out. It wasn't very difficult (once I had the hole bored in the plate) and it was very effective (I've used the same plate on several more front ends since then, always successfully). It's not all that fast, but you can tell you are making progress as you keep nudging the spindle nut farther each time. The biggest downside is that the standoffs do end up bending the dust shield a fair amount. It didn't hurt the usability of the dust shields, and it was nothing that bothered me. But I know you care about a lot of the details more than I do. If I were you I'd still try the slide hammer first. But this is another possibility. I forgot to mention that I put the keyed washer between my plate and the spindle nut and put some grease on it as well. That way turning the spindle nut didn't tend to turn the plate and it reduced the friction so the torque I could put on it likely did (a very little) more good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 I forgot to mention that I put the keyed washer between my plate and the spindle nut and put some grease on it as well. That way turning the spindle nut didn't tend to turn the plate and it reduced the friction so the torque I could put on it likely did (a very little) more good. Gee, yet another reason I am not a big fan of 4WD unless I really need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 I forgot to mention that I put the keyed washer between my plate and the spindle nut and put some grease on it as well. That way turning the spindle nut didn't tend to turn the plate and it reduced the friction so the torque I could put on it likely did (a very little) more good. Likely did a lot of good! You might be surprised how much torque it takes to overcome friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 31, 2019 Author Share Posted May 31, 2019 Likely did a lot of good! You might be surprised how much torque it takes to overcome friction. Ohhh, so much to share! First, success! Plan B(ob) works. But, I only got the driver's side off as the passenger's side is the one I'd been working on this morning, and I see now that I have it cocked. So I switched to the driver's side and off it came. I used a 4lb plumber's sledge and took several hits on each bolt then tightened the spindle nut. Hits/tighten, hits/tighten. And I didn't really have to tighten the spindle nut all that much each time. But, this design of D60 doesn't have a washer between the nut and the bearing, and I don't have anything that size, so I just lubed it. Here's the puller, which is made of 3" channel 8 1/2" long. It is just something I've had for 49+ years, and it happened to be the right length. It had a 5/8" hole 3/4" from one end, so I put another one on the other end to match and used a hole saw to put a 2" hole in the middle. It slipped right over the spindle, but I only had one 5 1/2" long 5/8" bolt, so I pulled the piece of hardened all-thread off the shop crane. The combo worked nicely. Here it is doing its job: And here is the spindle and driveshaft. Boy is the D60 much more simple than the D44! Bill - I plan to use the 4wd, and that will make this well worth it. Tomorrow I'll put the nuts back on the high side of the passenger's side spindle straighten it up and then pull it. Should come off easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Ohhh, so much to share! First, success! Plan B(ob) works. But, I only got the driver's side off as the passenger's side is the one I'd been working on this morning, and I see now that I have it cocked. So I switched to the driver's side and off it came. I used a 4lb plumber's sledge and took several hits on each bolt then tightened the spindle nut. Hits/tighten, hits/tighten. And I didn't really have to tighten the spindle nut all that much each time. But, this design of D60 doesn't have a washer between the nut and the bearing, and I don't have anything that size, so I just lubed it. Here's the puller, which is made of 3" channel 8 1/2" long. It is just something I've had for 49+ years, and it happened to be the right length. It had a 5/8" hole 3/4" from one end, so I put another one on the other end to match and used a hole saw to put a 2" hole in the middle. It slipped right over the spindle, but I only had one 5 1/2" long 5/8" bolt, so I pulled the piece of hardened all-thread off the shop crane. The combo worked nicely. Here it is doing its job: And here is the spindle and driveshaft. Boy is the D60 much more simple than the D44! Bill - I plan to use the 4wd, and that will make this well worth it. Tomorrow I'll put the nuts back on the high side of the passenger's side spindle straighten it up and then pull it. Should come off easily. Glad it worked for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Glad it worked for you! Bob - It also worked on the passenger's side, although that rascal fought me to the very end. But it is out and I'm starting to pull tie rods, then ball joints, and I'll have the basic axle ready to take for rebuilding. Dane/grumpin - I got the CD. Thanks again! I'll do some work and get the Monobeam bit up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Bob - It also worked on the passenger's side, although that rascal fought me to the very end. But it is out and I'm starting to pull tie rods, then ball joints, and I'll have the basic axle ready to take for rebuilding. Dane/grumpin - I got the CD. Thanks again! I'll do some work and get the Monobeam bit up. Good work! Awesome! Glad you got the CD, it got there pretty quick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Good work! Awesome! Glad you got the CD, it got there pretty quick! Thanks! And the Dana 60 info is up on the website: Driveline/Axles and Differentials and then the Front Axles tab, then the Instructions tab and finally the Dana 60 tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Good work! Awesome! Glad you got the CD, it got there pretty quick! Thanks! And the Dana 60 info is up on the website: Driveline/Axles and Differentials and then the Front Axles tab, then the Instructions tab and finally the Dana 60 tab. Well, I'm soooooo close to having this thing apart! But the passenger's side rear spring eye bolt is rusted to the bushing and refuses to come out and play. Any suggestions? Here's what I've done: Turned it with a breakover, but can hear the bushing slipping in the rubber; soaked it in PB Blaster; hammered on the end, with a nut on it of course, with the 4# sledge. Nada. I'm not going to use the F350 springs, but don't really want to send that one to the scrap heap when the frame goes. I guess I could cut the hanger off the frame, but I'd still have to cut the bolt or torch the thing and burn the rubber out. Still, the bushing would be bound to the bolt, so that doesn't get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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