Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

When I first looked at the chain for the speed control on my carb I thought it looked “loose”.

But to me it works surprisingly well. Maybe I’m not expecting much for an older “analog” system.

I wonder if I loosened it up a notch if that might change the 5 MPH bump? I wouldn't think so, but it is worth a try.

[grumpin]

I wonder if I loosened it up a notch if that might change the 5 MPH bump? I wouldn't think so, but it is worth a try.

Couldn’t hurt I reckon!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Did I say anything about "speed control" vs "cruise control"? In my mind the only difference is Ford vs Chevy. Much the same as "SuperCab" vs "Extended Cab".

I was just meaning to relate my experience with a speed/cruise control from about the same era as Gary's (OK, 6 years older) that had a similar quirk to what he's seeing. And that was when that Suburban was new, so it wasn't a matter of worn out components or anything.

Bob, I've never had either and I don't know if there are any distinctions in how they operate.

I'm certainly interested in your personal experience.

Sorry if I'm being pedantic.

It's my nature.

[85lebaront2]

Bob, I've never had either and I don't know if there are any distinctions in how they operate.

I'm certainly interested in your personal experience.

Sorry if I'm being pedantic.

It's my nature.

I will say that going from the vacuum servo to the newer electronic system the accuracy and response are smoother. Hills, biggest here are the CBBT upslopes and Darth stays right on set except with the loaded trailer and bed, dropped to 3rd, back into lockup and maintained 54 mph. I am pretty sure the vacuum system would have probably lost speed as the vacuum dropped. Chrysler uses an "ejector" system on the turbo models to maintain vacuum under moderate boost conditions as in going uphill.

Gary, if you are interested, I have a couple of extra electronic cruise units, cable might get interesting though, but they are for the EFI throttle system. I believe you have the clutch switch and brake is from the brake lights to cancel. They use the same steering wheel control resistors and I think I have a spare connector plug for the module (mounts where the vacuum servo sits now).

[Gary Lewis]

I will say that going from the vacuum servo to the newer electronic system the accuracy and response are smoother. Hills, biggest here are the CBBT upslopes and Darth stays right on set except with the loaded trailer and bed, dropped to 3rd, back into lockup and maintained 54 mph. I am pretty sure the vacuum system would have probably lost speed as the vacuum dropped. Chrysler uses an "ejector" system on the turbo models to maintain vacuum under moderate boost conditions as in going uphill.

Gary, if you are interested, I have a couple of extra electronic cruise units, cable might get interesting though, but they are for the EFI throttle system. I believe you have the clutch switch and brake is from the brake lights to cancel. They use the same steering wheel control resistors and I think I have a spare connector plug for the module (mounts where the vacuum servo sits now).

Bill - When I go EFI, which I'm thinking will be next winter, I may want to go with the electronic version. However, I have the vacuum one from Huck, which was EFI, and it is set up for the EFI throttle. So the first round I'll use that and then upgrade. Thanks for the offer!

And, speaking of going EFI, as much as I'd like to do that for the trip to Colorado this summer, I'm thinking that continuing to peel the onion is the better approach and get everything in order for the trip.

Meanwhile I can use the truck to make trips around here. First we'll do day trips, like the one tomorrow, until we've had the vaccine and feel safe interfacing with others. Then we can do trips like the Kiamichi Trail.

And in between I can get Mission Control all wired up, the power to the inverter, and the compressor installed. Oh yes, the fog light mount made and the fog lights installed.

But, along the way I need to determine where the air cleaner box and driver's side PDB will go. I'm pretty sure that the coolant recovery/windshield washer tank and the battery isolator will have to be relocated, so I need to figure that out before making new #2 cables that would have to be replaced.

Perhaps the next order of business should be placing Huck's driver's fender on the work table and bolting the air box and PDB to it, and then transferring those locations to Big Blue. After all, the air box sorta has to be in the right spot since the hoses are of a fixed length. And that will tell me what has to move to accommodate those two items.

And it would probably be good to go ahead and put the new PDB in as I could use it to house the relays for the fog and backup lights.

Hmmm, reminds me of a chess game.

[Rusty_S85]

Bill - When I go EFI, which I'm thinking will be next winter, I may want to go with the electronic version. However, I have the vacuum one from Huck, which was EFI, and it is set up for the EFI throttle. So the first round I'll use that and then upgrade. Thanks for the offer!

And, speaking of going EFI, as much as I'd like to do that for the trip to Colorado this summer, I'm thinking that continuing to peel the onion is the better approach and get everything in order for the trip.

Meanwhile I can use the truck to make trips around here. First we'll do day trips, like the one tomorrow, until we've had the vaccine and feel safe interfacing with others. Then we can do trips like the Kiamichi Trail.

And in between I can get Mission Control all wired up, the power to the inverter, and the compressor installed. Oh yes, the fog light mount made and the fog lights installed.

But, along the way I need to determine where the air cleaner box and driver's side PDB will go. I'm pretty sure that the coolant recovery/windshield washer tank and the battery isolator will have to be relocated, so I need to figure that out before making new #2 cables that would have to be replaced.

Perhaps the next order of business should be placing Huck's driver's fender on the work table and bolting the air box and PDB to it, and then transferring those locations to Big Blue. After all, the air box sorta has to be in the right spot since the hoses are of a fixed length. And that will tell me what has to move to accommodate those two items.

And it would probably be good to go ahead and put the new PDB in as I could use it to house the relays for the fog and backup lights.

Hmmm, reminds me of a chess game.

Thats what im working on right now my EFI and my Auxiliary electrical circuit.

On the EFI I am scrapping my plan of using rubber hose and think while the fuel tank is out I will pull the OE carb 5/16" fuel line and install a stainless steel 3/8" fuel line from InLine Tube. Real pain trying to figure out how to do the rubber to hardline connections. I do plan on using an AN flare with AN tube nuts but how to attach the hose is my current problem. Could do vapor guard hose barb fittings with male -6AN ends that could thread in. An alternative would be to use reuseable hose ends with braided hose and male -6AN ends. Then there is the issue of do I run hose from the tank to the filter/pressure regulator or do I use left over 3/8" stainless tubing from plumbing the engine and make a feed and return hardline from the filter/regulator back to the tank. Would be nice to do like late model and have the hardline attached directly to the filter/regulator assembly but not sure how one could do a quick disconnect.

Then on the flip side for the electrical im planning out how I can make my circuits for my roll bar lights but just plug the connector off till I do that upgrade if I even do it. Just dont know if I want to try and source Ford weather proof connectors or just do like I did with my KC driving lights and use deutsche connectors which wouldnt be Ford nor period correct.

Real pain when you think you have everything planned out and then you go back and start thinking of a better fancier way of doing it.

[Gary Lewis]

Real pain when you think you have everything planned out and then you go back and start thinking of a better fancier way of doing it.

It is a real pain! That's why I'm trying to "future proof" what I'm doing.

For instance, my fuel system is pure 1995 EFI right up to the firewall where I installed the double-headed fuel pressure regulators to step the EFI pressure down for a carb. But when I go EFI I'll just unplug the FPR from the supply and return lines and the EFI fuel rails will plug right in and lay down on the studs on the lower plenum.

Now I'm trying to work through the electricals. I ran the 95's large cable from the megafuse on the passenger's side across the radiator support to the battery isolator on the driver's side. But now I need to move the isolator and put the 95's EFI PDB in place on the driver's fender. Then find a place for the isolator and make cables from the stud on the PDB to the isolator and then from the isolator to the aux battery. Then, and only then, will I know where the megafuse can be placed that goes between the aux battery and the aux power relay that will power the inverter.

But I'm happy that I now have the truck on the road and I can do some of these changes between trips with it. It is such a good feeling!

[Rusty_S85]

Real pain when you think you have everything planned out and then you go back and start thinking of a better fancier way of doing it.

It is a real pain! That's why I'm trying to "future proof" what I'm doing.

For instance, my fuel system is pure 1995 EFI right up to the firewall where I installed the double-headed fuel pressure regulators to step the EFI pressure down for a carb. But when I go EFI I'll just unplug the FPR from the supply and return lines and the EFI fuel rails will plug right in and lay down on the studs on the lower plenum.

Now I'm trying to work through the electricals. I ran the 95's large cable from the megafuse on the passenger's side across the radiator support to the battery isolator on the driver's side. But now I need to move the isolator and put the 95's EFI PDB in place on the driver's fender. Then find a place for the isolator and make cables from the stud on the PDB to the isolator and then from the isolator to the aux battery. Then, and only then, will I know where the megafuse can be placed that goes between the aux battery and the aux power relay that will power the inverter.

But I'm happy that I now have the truck on the road and I can do some of these changes between trips with it. It is such a good feeling!

That is the way to do it. Im struggling with the 9 relay 9 fuse universal box or the 10 relay 15 fuse universal box. Im currently in P.S. editing my old wiring diagram to reflect a 9 relay 9 fuse box then will edit it again into a 10 relay 15 fuse box if I see something that I didnt think about before.

Like right now my future proofing would be with the 9 relays I would have 3 relays open for a two pair of auxiliary lights. But I am thinking to myself my dealer A/C is pumping all its juice for the compressor through my capilary cycling switch on the inside. Might be smart to run a relay for the clutch itself and take the cycling load off this switch itself especially since I am looking at throwing in a '65 Mustang unit that is listed as having a 25* F cut out and 30* F cut in which might be better for me as my clutch cuts out in cold weather at 48* out the vents. I also figure it wouldnt be hard since I will be running my clutch wire to this same box for my A/C cut out for w.o.t. as well as for my A/C request for idle up. Could just simply run it as a trigger for my A/C request and for A/C clutch relay and then the battery power can simply go through this relay into the A/C cut out relay and to my clutch. Lot more complexity in the box but it does help reduce current on one switch. But my issue now is doing this will leave me with no future proofing so if I decide to add K.C. LED rock lights or add a new alarm to my truck with remote start I wont have any more expansion slots on my box. Makes the 10 relay 15 fuse box a bit more fitting but I need to pop my hood this weekend and cut out a couple cardboard patterns to see which one will fit nicely where I plan to mount it. If I can get away with the larger box I will go for it.

Going OE also a good idea, I still need to do some digging into some weather proof connectors preferably something OE Ford looking to blend in some what. Also need to do my math and figure out how I want to lump the auxiliary lights together. Currently for my driving lights my plan is to retain both lights with one power source with the two wires splitting from the single relay. I could do this but then it would require eight wires for four lights, four powers and four grounds. Was thinking I could just run two powers and two grounds since the lights will be in pairs and then at the lights themselves jumper a wire from each of the lights to feed power to the other. Would allow for a smaller terminal connector but would also require larger gauge wire for such a run along the frame through the bed and up the roll bar tubing to the lights. Especially if I opt for the 100w Halogen lights like I got for my driving lights.

But for me making these tweaks is what takes my mind off my truck still being down awaiting the engine. Shame this virus hit when it did cause it really screwed my pace up be nice if they would do another stimulus check that would basically pay off my credit card and I could order a short block and actually start building my engine and while waiting to order the rest of the stuff I need I could at least be planning out how to route my fuel lines to look like a OE carb as well as how to route the wires to try and hide them for the sniper. Also need to hit up the local part stores and try and find a Bosh O2 sensor that holley supplies but one that doesnt have a 20ft lead on it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I had Vern's intentions I would have bought the OEM Michelins.

Those were quiet and lasted forever!

Would be fine on the highway with a trailer

Like these, Jim?

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Defender+LTX+M%2FS&partnum=875R6DLTX&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Very similar to those David, but they aren't offered in 235/85-R16.

Gary, I want to ask you how you've implemented your Technoversions MeterMatch.

What source of power you used and where you spliced it into the sender wire.

Obviously I can't tuck it up behind the cluster if I need to set the calibration.

I think I will have to run one tank dry over Christmas so I can set the full and empty limits by switching from one tank to the other.

I seem to get right on 165-66 miles from a tank, so if I set the thirds at 50 and 100 miles that should leave about a gallon and a half at empty.

Does that make sense to you?

[85lebaront2]

Real pain when you think you have everything planned out and then you go back and start thinking of a better fancier way of doing it.

It is a real pain! That's why I'm trying to "future proof" what I'm doing.

For instance, my fuel system is pure 1995 EFI right up to the firewall where I installed the double-headed fuel pressure regulators to step the EFI pressure down for a carb. But when I go EFI I'll just unplug the FPR from the supply and return lines and the EFI fuel rails will plug right in and lay down on the studs on the lower plenum.

Now I'm trying to work through the electricals. I ran the 95's large cable from the megafuse on the passenger's side across the radiator support to the battery isolator on the driver's side. But now I need to move the isolator and put the 95's EFI PDB in place on the driver's fender. Then find a place for the isolator and make cables from the stud on the PDB to the isolator and then from the isolator to the aux battery. Then, and only then, will I know where the megafuse can be placed that goes between the aux battery and the aux power relay that will power the inverter.

But I'm happy that I now have the truck on the road and I can do some of these changes between trips with it. It is such a good feeling!

Gary, are you planning to go to the MAF for your EFI? If so you need to find a 460 MAF air filter top, bottom is the same as the non-MAF system and different from the smaller engine MAF one. Location is the same.