Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

With the two holes on each side you could always have two individual brackets that utilize both holes on each side. Making them where you could get the clutch lever to rotate all the way around. The light position wouldn't work for me as I have the Warn M8274 (I think that is the number) It has been a good winch, bought it in 1979.

I could have two brackets, but I don't think that solves the clutch handle problem. I'll have to look tomorrow, but I think the clutch handle is almost straight behind the light. So if the light is going to be in that spot it needs to move forward and the bracket can't come any farther back than the back of the light's mount.

I think the simple angle bolted into those two holes is going to work. We shall see.

[Bruce moose4x4]

I could have two brackets, but I don't think that solves the clutch handle problem. I'll have to look tomorrow, but I think the clutch handle is almost straight behind the light. So if the light is going to be in that spot it needs to move forward and the bracket can't come any farther back than the back of the light's mount.

I think the simple angle bolted into those two holes is going to work. We shall see.

You can always mill out the center part of the angle just leaving the bend across the center of the winch.

[Gary Lewis]

You can always mill out the center part of the angle just leaving the bend across the center of the winch.

Scott - Thanks.

Bruce - Not sure what you mean. The 1 1/2" angle clears the winch, but just barely and not enough to get the cover over the winch. But by making the top of the angle only 1", which I think is all that the light's base needs, then it'll let the cover go on easily. And hopefully it'll let the clutch lever be fully rotated.

But I may have to mill out the curve below the light's base to allow the large nut they sent to have a flat surface to go against. Is that what you meant?

[Bruce moose4x4]

Scott - Thanks.

Bruce - Not sure what you mean. The 1 1/2" angle clears the winch, but just barely and not enough to get the cover over the winch. But by making the top of the angle only 1", which I think is all that the light's base needs, then it'll let the cover go on easily. And hopefully it'll let the clutch lever be fully rotated.

But I may have to mill out the curve below the light's base to allow the large nut they sent to have a flat surface to go against. Is that what you meant?

Have the angle the width on the top side( where lights mount) just wide enough for the lights. Then between the lights, mill the width back to @ 1/4 inch wide ( or just enough to leave the bend in the angle for strength.) That would open up the area above the winch to get cover on????

Hope that makes sense.

[Gary Lewis]

Have the angle the width on the top side( where lights mount) just wide enough for the lights. Then between the lights, mill the width back to @ 1/4 inch wide ( or just enough to leave the bend in the angle for strength.) That would open up the area above the winch to get cover on????

Hope that makes sense.

Ok, I understand what you are saying. However, I don't think that's a problem. In the pic below I've put red arrows to show the tight point at the moment - where the two arches are that hold the control box on top. But when I move the light forward to hit the bumper's upright, which will let me take 1/2" out of the top of the angle, there should be plenty of room to get the cover over the winch.

Also, I just did some Photoshop magic and put another arrow in on the clutch handle. That arrow is the length from the midpoint of the center pivot for the handle to the far right/back end of it. But I then moved it left/forward so the other end of it is in the middle of the pivot and it looks like it would just clear with the top of the angle at 1 1/2". So taking that 1/2" out of it will make it clear for sure. I just didn't try today as I didn't think it would clear.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I understand what you are saying. However, I don't think that's a problem. In the pic below I've put red arrows to show the tight point at the moment - where the two arches are that hold the control box on top. But when I move the light forward to hit the bumper's upright, which will let me take 1/2" out of the top of the angle, there should be plenty of room to get the cover over the winch.

Also, I just did some Photoshop magic and put another arrow in on the clutch handle. That arrow is the length from the midpoint of the center pivot for the handle to the far right/back end of it. But I then moved it left/forward so the other end of it is in the middle of the pivot and it looks like it would just clear with the top of the angle at 1 1/2". So taking that 1/2" out of it will make it clear for sure. I just didn't try today as I didn't think it would clear.

Looking good Gary!

I used to swear by Cooper Discoverer LT's.

Then they discontinued them for the AT's and AT3's, which didn't work for me.

The SST and ST Maxx always seemed a little too aggressive (and loud) for my use case.

[Gary Lewis]

Looking good Gary!

I used to swear by Cooper Discoverer LT's.

Then they discontinued them for the AT's and AT3's, which didn't work for me.

The SST and ST Maxx always seemed a little too aggressive (and loud) for my use case.

Thanks, Jim.

Vernon picked the tires. And like you, they are a bit too aggressive for my tastes. But at $1000 to replace them I think I can live with them. And with an "excellent" off-road performance rating I guess I'd better give them a chance.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim.

Vernon picked the tires. And like you, they are a bit too aggressive for my tastes. But at $1000 to replace them I think I can live with them. And with an "excellent" off-road performance rating I guess I'd better give them a chance.

As well, you should!

BB isn't your daily (or only) driver, and your off road build intentions align with with the tire's intended use.

[Gary Lewis]

As well, you should!

BB isn't your daily (or only) driver, and your off road build intentions align with with the tire's intended use.

Yep. But it is curious that Vernon chose those tires since off-roading wasn't in his plans. He was planning on pulling a travel trailer all across the US so he and his wife could see the USA (in a Ford) in his retirement.

But those tires make a lot of noise on the highway, so sure wouldn't be my first pick for doing what he was planning to do. With the sound deadening and insulation, plus all new weatherstripping, the level in the cab is down to "tolerable". And at speed you don't notice the vibration, but as you roll to a stop you can feel every lug.

Some day I'd like to slip a set of "regular old street tires" on there and see what they sound like and how the truck drives. I suspect even the ride would be better as these things are HEAVY!

[Bruce moose4x4]

Yep. But it is curious that Vernon chose those tires since off-roading wasn't in his plans. He was planning on pulling a travel trailer all across the US so he and his wife could see the USA (in a Ford) in his retirement.

But those tires make a lot of noise on the highway, so sure wouldn't be my first pick for doing what he was planning to do. With the sound deadening and insulation, plus all new weatherstripping, the level in the cab is down to "tolerable". And at speed you don't notice the vibration, but as you roll to a stop you can feel every lug.

Some day I'd like to slip a set of "regular old street tires" on there and see what they sound like and how the truck drives. I suspect even the ride would be better as these things are HEAVY!

Not sure if this drawing made it. Do not usually do this on phone. It would give a little more clearance on the mounts for the control box.