kramttocs Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I have lights mounted on either side of my winch fairlead on the Ranger. I modified the brackets so that the lights aim slightly outwards, and this mounting position gives me 100% unobstructed light out in front of the truck. These two little lights are more than enough to light my way through the Ocala National Forest, but of course that's a matter of opinion. Not quite like yours Shaun but if there weren't already holes in the face of Gary's I was think along those lines with one of these I prefer the further apart spacing of yours (and the holes on Gary's) better though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Not quite like yours Shaun but if there weren't already holes in the face of Gary's I was think along those lines with one of these I prefer the further apart spacing of yours (and the holes on Gary's) better though. I don't think Gary can use the square cut holes because the spacing is different on each hole. But the two upper holes look to be the same spacing, although they're spaced really close so that would cause the beams to cross unless he modifies the brackets for the lights to point them outwards like I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I don't think Gary can use the square cut holes because the spacing is different on each hole. But the two upper holes look to be the same spacing, although they're spaced really close so that would cause the beams to cross unless he modifies the brackets for the lights to point them outwards like I did. I didn't elaborate as I like the right arrow but for the square holes I was picturing a dressed up piece of angle iron bolted to them and then the lights bolt to the angle iron. This way there would still be side to side adjustment. You're right - directly mounted in the square holes would look goofy with the spacing being different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I didn't elaborate as I like the right arrow but for the square holes I was picturing a dressed up piece of angle iron bolted to them and then the lights bolt to the angle iron. This way there would still be side to side adjustment. You're right - directly mounted in the square holes would look goofy with the spacing being different. I guess I don't understand why you couldn't use the little holes along the edge of the bumper that hold the filler plates in place. #10 screws are plenty strong to hold a light. (in tension or double shear at least) Edit: Grade 5 (or M8.8) 10-24 is #2,100 UTS. The threads are going to tear out of the bumper long before that. https://elginfasteners.com/resources/standard-and-specialty-fastener-material-strengths-part-1/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 I guess I don't understand why you couldn't use the little holes along the edge of the bumper that hold the filler plates in place. #10 screws are plenty strong to hold a light. (in tension or double shear at least) Edit: Grade 5 (or M8.8) 10-24 is #2,100 UTS. The threads are going to tear out of the bumper long before that. https://elginfasteners.com/resources/standard-and-specialty-fastener-material-strengths-part-1/ Gee, watch a movie and go to bed early and lots of answers come in. Thanks guys! I could use the holes in the top edge that hold the filler panels on, but that would put the lights in a more vulnerable position than on the front or set back. Or I could use a piece of angle to create a bracket between the lower square holes or between the upper round holes. Lots of options. Shaun - What lights do you have? They don't show up very clearly in that pic. Bob - I'm a bit confused about the lights you use, shown below. The Delta website doesn't tell much about them, at all, other than the standard one is $87 and the LED version is $114. If I used the hole on top that Scott pointed out and drilled a matching one I could use either rectangular ones like Bob's or round ones like these KC Gravity LED Fog Lights on the left or the old-school KC Daylighters on the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Gee, watch a movie and go to bed early and lots of answers come in. Thanks guys! I could use the holes in the top edge that hold the filler panels on, but that would put the lights in a more vulnerable position than on the front or set back. Or I could use a piece of angle to create a bracket between the lower square holes or between the upper round holes. Lots of options. Shaun - What lights do you have? They don't show up very clearly in that pic. Bob - I'm a bit confused about the lights you use, shown below. The Delta website doesn't tell much about them, at all, other than the standard one is $87 and the LED version is $114. If I used the hole on top that Scott pointed out and drilled a matching one I could use either rectangular ones like Bob's or round ones like these KC Gravity LED Fog Lights on the left or the old-school KC Daylighters on the right. I'm tired of replacing filament bulbs, and won't go there again, other than my headlamps because of the afformentionend icing. Without some heat behind my plastic lenses they are soon iced over. KC chrome shells definitely have that 'period correct' appearance! Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 .... Bob - I'm a bit confused about the lights you use, shown below. The Delta website doesn't tell much about them, at all, other than the standard one is $87 and the LED version is $114. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n81306/01-5139-55-1-large-369-1-v1.jpg.... True, the web site doesn't say much about them. And honestly, I haven't bought any of those in a while. So really I'm looking at the web site and trying to pick the ones that best match the Delta lights I have on my truck. The ones on my truck have what I would call a "fog light" beam. They're very wide horizontally and very narrow vertically, with a very flat cut-off on top. They don't reach out directly in front as well as low beams (but they don't need to, I have low beams for that). But they do light up the ditches really well, and help light around corners. They also fill in close to the truck a little when the high beams are on (not that high beams need a lot of help there). They have black plastic housings (which I like the look of on older trucks better than chrome, at least in rectangular lights, but that's just personal preference). And they have nice lenses. The one quality gripe I gave (living in the rust belt) is that the screws that hold the lens cover on are threaded into brass(?) inserts that are molded into the plastic housing. After sitting on the front of the truck through a few Minnesota winters the screws corrode into the inserts and the insert spins in the plastic so you can't get the screw out to replace a burned out bulb (that's where one of my lights is right now). But if you think to take the screws out and put anti-seize on them when they're new you can avoid that. Another issue I've had with some lights like this (but I don't remember if the Delta's had this) is that the ground often isn't done well enough for me. I usually end up splicing a longer wire onto the ground wire they use and going into a ground in my light harness rather than accepting their offering of an eye connector on the pivot bold and grounding through the mount. But that's easy to deal with too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 I'm tired of replacing filament bulbs, and won't go there again, other than my headlamps because of the afformentionend icing. Without some heat behind my plastic lenses they are soon iced over. KC chrome shells definitely have that 'period correct' appearance! Another option is the 4" RALLY 400 HALOGEN - 2-LIGHT SYSTEM - 55W SPREAD BEAM. I think the 6" might be too big for the top of the bumper. It is interesting to compare the KC lights: SPECIFICATION GRAVITY RALLY DAYLIGHTER Raw Lumens: 866 1,350 2,452 Lux @ 10 Meters: 150 392 1,962 (Spread pattern) Candela: 15,000 39,240 196,200 (Spread pattern) Beam Distance (Meters): 245 396 886 (Spread pattern) The Gravity's write up says they are street legal, but neither the Rally nor Daylighter say that. And the Rally's shell is black, only: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 .... Bob - I'm a bit confused about the lights you use, shown below. The Delta website doesn't tell much about them, at all, other than the standard one is $87 and the LED version is $114. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n81306/01-5139-55-1-large-369-1-v1.jpg.... True, the web site doesn't say much about them. And honestly, I haven't bought any of those in a while. So really I'm looking at the web site and trying to pick the ones that best match the Delta lights I have on my truck. The ones on my truck have what I would call a "fog light" beam. They're very wide horizontally and very narrow vertically, with a very flat cut-off on top. They don't reach out directly in front as well as low beams (but they don't need to, I have low beams for that). But they do light up the ditches really well, and help light around corners. They also fill in close to the truck a little when the high beams are on (not that high beams need a lot of help there). They have black plastic housings (which I like the look of on older trucks better than chrome, at least in rectangular lights, but that's just personal preference). And they have nice lenses. The one quality gripe I gave (living in the rust belt) is that the screws that hold the lens cover on are threaded into brass(?) inserts that are molded into the plastic housing. After sitting on the front of the truck through a few Minnesota winters the screws corrode into the inserts and the insert spins in the plastic so you can't get the screw out to replace a burned out bulb (that's where one of my lights is right now). But if you think to take the screws out and put anti-seize on them when they're new you can avoid that. Another issue I've had with some lights like this (but I don't remember if the Delta's had this) is that the ground often isn't done well enough for me. I usually end up splicing a longer wire onto the ground wire they use and going into a ground in my light harness rather than accepting their offering of an eye connector on the pivot bold and grounding through the mount. But that's easy to deal with too. Bob - Thanks. The Delta website is really poor in my opinion. I've actually found more info elsewhere on the lights than on the website. Does "fog" mean they have a sharp cutoff at the top? Is it fair to assume that other brands do as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Bob - Thanks. The Delta website is really poor in my opinion. I've actually found more info elsewhere on the lights than on the website. Does "fog" mean they have a sharp cutoff at the top? Is it fair to assume that other brands do as well? Check out PIAA also https://www.piaa.com/store/car-truck-lights.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts