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Big Blue's Transformation


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Jim - I started trying to specify them from that page. But that got difficult as I didn't understand what the options mean. So I went to Mouser's catalog and they have Carling part numbers as well as explanations, and I then decoded what they said vs what Carling said - and got confused.

Yes, they are all vertical. But the bodies come in several different colors. And there are SPDT, DPDT, momentary, etc. No light, one light, and two lights - in several different colors and combinations. And several different voltages for the lights. And voltage and current ratings for the contacts. :nabble_anim_crazy:

As for legends, I'm still researching that as well. Carling has these, but I don't know how to get them so plan to call Carling tomorrow.

And there are a bunch of people that sell decals, like:

And there are people who appear to sell the "actuators", the rocker if you will, like:

It looks like you can do about anything you want with Carling switches. But what I want are lighted switches with a graphic or lettering on the lens, like the OX switch. I'll post again in a bit with what I think I want the switches to look like... :nabble_anim_working:

Right.

But you already have the OX switch.... and that switch has a part number.

So what variables do you have left?

95% of the number you need is already filled out.

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Jim - I started trying to specify them from that page. But that got difficult as I didn't understand what the options mean. So I went to Mouser's catalog and they have Carling part numbers as well as explanations, and I then decoded what they said vs what Carling said - and got confused.

Yes, they are all vertical. But the bodies come in several different colors. And there are SPDT, DPDT, momentary, etc. No light, one light, and two lights - in several different colors and combinations. And several different voltages for the lights. And voltage and current ratings for the contacts. :nabble_anim_crazy:

As for legends, I'm still researching that as well. Carling has these, but I don't know how to get them so plan to call Carling tomorrow.

And there are a bunch of people that sell decals, like:

And there are people who appear to sell the "actuators", the rocker if you will, like:

It looks like you can do about anything you want with Carling switches. But what I want are lighted switches with a graphic or lettering on the lens, like the OX switch. I'll post again in a bit with what I think I want the switches to look like... :nabble_anim_working:

Ok, let me think through this, and I'd like y'all's input. And lens color options are: Clear White Amber Green Red Blue

  • OX locker: Blue Locker_Icon.jpg.8ba146f677d5ec47a66aac0edac092ba.jpg

  • Air compressor: White I'd found this symbol on a Carling pub somewhere but can't find it now: Compressor_Symbol_For_Switch.jpg.5fe9f9140366a36887ff8a2105c1f80e.jpg

  • Driving lights: Amber with this symbol Driving_Lights.jpg.bf28406b353fde8d0d4c510c73db07bc.jpg

  • Backup lights: Red and the lens would say Backup Lights

  • Parallel batteries: Green And Carling has an icon that says "Battery Parallel"

  • Fast Idle: This was "PTO" but I think Fast Idle is better as it may not be done via the PTO function of the EFI system. And even if it is PTO isn't self-explanatory. White and this icon 'cause I don't see a better one, although I know Shaun didn't like it. Fast_Idle_Icon.jpg.1ae8f5d4cb9884f3861c63dc8b65056c.jpg
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Right.

But you already have the OX switch.... and that switch has a part number.

So what variables do you have left?

95% of the number you need is already filled out.

Yes, if the OX switch has a part number on it, assuming they didn't pull a Ford, I can then just change out a few variables, like:

  • Poles & throws: The OX switch is DPDT but most of what I need is SPST

  • Action: The battery parallel switch is supposed to be momentary as that gives you X seconds of parallel. Otherwise it could get left on.

  • Lens: The color is one of the options

  • Light: The light color, assuming you go with LED, is an option. And they say "Lens color for LEDs must be clear, white, or match color of LED"
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Ok, let me think through this, and I'd like y'all's input. And lens color options are: Clear White Amber Green Red Blue

  • OX locker: Blue

  • Air compressor: White I'd found this symbol on a Carling pub somewhere but can't find it now:

  • Driving lights: Amber with this symbol

  • Backup lights: Red and the lens would say Backup Lights

  • Parallel batteries: Green And Carling has an icon that says "Battery Parallel"

  • Fast Idle: This was "PTO" but I think Fast Idle is better as it may not be done via the PTO function of the EFI system. And even if it is PTO isn't self-explanatory. White and this icon 'cause I don't see a better one, although I know Shaun didn't like it.

See their note about the lens colors.

Personally I would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving and clear for something like your fast idle, where I want it to get my attention.

The LED behind can be whatever color

Having a colored lens kills lumens no matter what (refer to Daniel Stern)

I've been looking at the chart.

There's a lot you have no choice, and others that are already decided.

I think you would like a spreadsheet, but the variables are not near overwhelming.

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See their note about the lens colors.

Personally I would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving and clear for something like your fast idle, where I want it to get my attention.

The LED behind can be whatever color

Having a colored lens kills lumens no matter what (refer to Daniel Stern)

I've been looking at the chart.

There's a lot you have no choice, and others that are already decided.

I think you would like a spreadsheet, but the variables are not near overwhelming.

You want a window, they are contura2 with nubs not ridges.

They're all vertical. You don't need sealed and you want them black.

I wouldn't go for rubberized myself.

Since they're all going to relays they can all be 12V 10A, .250" spade, partitioned terminals is up to you but I probably wouldn't.

Etc.. knock all of that stuff out.

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See their note about the lens colors.

Personally I would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving and clear for something like your fast idle, where I want it to get my attention.

The LED behind can be whatever color

Having a colored lens kills lumens no matter what (refer to Daniel Stern)

I've been looking at the chart.

There's a lot you have no choice, and others that are already decided.

I think you would like a spreadsheet, but the variables are not near overwhelming.

I was thinking I'd want a different colored lens for each switch to make them easily differentiated when they are off or on. Six possible colors and six switches.

But when you said "would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving", do you mean the lens or the LED? I think you meant lens since you then said "The LED behind can be whatever color". So I guess I don't fully understand why not have different lens colors so it helps you pick the switch.

On the spreadsheet, I think that's a good idea. There aren't very many options I need to change. Will give that a try.

 

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I was thinking I'd want a different colored lens for each switch to make them easily differentiated when they are off or on. Six possible colors and six switches.

But when you said "would want white for any switch I'd have on while driving", do you mean the lens or the LED? I think you meant lens since you then said "The LED behind can be whatever color". So I guess I don't fully understand why not have different lens colors so it helps you pick the switch.

On the spreadsheet, I think that's a good idea. There aren't very many options I need to change. Will give that a try.

I mean the lens.

White or clear lens, colored LED.

My fog switch has Amber LED's behind a frosted button.

I like that because it's not distracting when the first part of the button is illuminated (because the lights are on) then the second icon lights up if the fog switch is engaged.

(Click on, click off)

I don't need the buttons different colors, and actually don't like that, but everyone has a preference.

 

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I mean the lens.

White or clear lens, colored LED.

My fog switch has Amber LED's behind a frosted button.

I like that because it's not distracting when the first part of the button is illuminated (because the lights are on) then the second icon lights up if the fog switch is engaged.

(Click on, click off)

I don't need the buttons different colors, and actually don't like that, but everyone has a preference.

Jim - I'll think about that. Thanks.

Now let me go over my plans for the "power box". You folks have seen it before but there have been some tweaks so I thought I'd 'splain it this round 'cause I think I'll start building it tomorrow.

I've re-oriented the AC relay so it takes up less left/right room. And I moved the DC fuse to the bottom. Both of those changes gave me more left/right room for the chargers & power ports, and I spaced them out to take advantage of that space. So now I'm confident that as new tech for chargers comes along I'll be able to swap these chargers out for the new ones - if I see a need.

And with the fuse on the bottom the DC power will come directly to it and then fan out to the chargers and power ports above the fuse. DC ground will also come in there and daisy chains across the chargers & power ports as well as goes to the far lug on the right of the relay.

The DC switching signal will go to the nearest right lug of the relay. And the AC cord will fan out with ground going to the angled lug on the AC outlet, neutral going to the closest straight-out lug, and hot going to the closest lug on the left of the relay. A jumper from the next-in lug on the relay to the other lug on the outlet finishes the AC wiring.

Inverter_Power_Panel.thumb.jpg.cc8d985887245b60e8356f8ffcb0568e.jpg

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Jim - I'll think about that. Thanks.

Now let me go over my plans for the "power box". You folks have seen it before but there have been some tweaks so I thought I'd 'splain it this round 'cause I think I'll start building it tomorrow.

I've re-oriented the AC relay so it takes up less left/right room. And I moved the DC fuse to the bottom. Both of those changes gave me more left/right room for the chargers & power ports, and I spaced them out to take advantage of that space. So now I'm confident that as new tech for chargers comes along I'll be able to swap these chargers out for the new ones - if I see a need.

And with the fuse on the bottom the DC power will come directly to it and then fan out to the chargers and power ports above the fuse. DC ground will also come in there and daisy chains across the chargers & power ports as well as goes to the far lug on the right of the relay.

The DC switching signal will go to the nearest right lug of the relay. And the AC cord will fan out with ground going to the angled lug on the AC outlet, neutral going to the closest straight-out lug, and hot going to the closest lug on the left of the relay. A jumper from the next-in lug on the relay to the other lug on the outlet finishes the AC wiring.

Well, that's disappointing. Gotta go with switched power. :nabble_smiley_sad:

USB-C_Charger_Current.thumb.jpg.3349874844fe10b3cc27cd1f9d7c1f4a.jpg

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Well, that's disappointing. Gotta go with switched power. :nabble_smiley_sad:

Gary, it's not going to do anything but basic USB unless the charger isnt getting the data "handshake" from a discharged device.

Adaptive charging is just that. There is a protocol between device and charger.

The voltage and current depends on the device battery's ability to handle it. And it will taper off as that battery reaches full charge because there are less ions readily available to move between cathode and anode... or they have further to travel, or....

Without the handshake, if you provide a load, any load, it's going to charge.

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