Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I’m going to throw something in here for the future or perhaps just to remember.

My Xterra has two power points, one in the rear baggage area and one in the center panel.

I use the one in the center panel for the CB radio. Sometimes my vehicles won’t get driven for awhile. I noticed the starter dragging after it had set. Drove it and everything was fine for a couple of days. It sat and did it again, couldn’t find anything so did an internet search and found people were having problems when they left a charger with no light in the socket. Power is cut to the socket when you switch the ignition off, my CB was turned off also.

I started unplugging the CB and it quit doing it as others had said. A strange quirk to me, but thought I’d mention it.

So, the power is off but somehow it is still drawing the battery down?

I'm beginning to think I need to convert the ash tray outlet to switched power. I'm just not too confident about how much current these things will draw, and Big Blue doesn't get driven all that often. And stories like yours kind of reinforce that thinking.

[kramttocs]

So, the power is off but somehow it is still drawing the battery down?

I'm beginning to think I need to convert the ash tray outlet to switched power. I'm just not too confident about how much current these things will draw, and Big Blue doesn't get driven all that often. And stories like yours kind of reinforce that thinking.

I think you should have it switched based on the ash tray position

[Gary Lewis]

I think you should have it switched based on the ash tray position

Scott - I'm not disagreeing, but what's the ash tray's position have to do with it? I'm missing something.

And, how would you do switched power? I'm thinking of a couple of possibilities, but what would you do?

• Relay: Put a relay in to switch the cigar lighter circuit, probably triggered by the radio circuit which is right above that area.

• Power Windows Circuit: Pick up the power window circuit, assuming BB has the wiring for it, as it isn't used for anything else since the truck has manual windows.

 

[kramttocs]

Scott - I'm not disagreeing, but what's the ash tray's position have to do with it? I'm missing something.

And, how would you do switched power? I'm thinking of a couple of possibilities, but what would you do?

• Relay: Put a relay in to switch the cigar lighter circuit, probably triggered by the radio circuit which is right above that area.

• Power Windows Circuit: Pick up the power window circuit, assuming BB has the wiring for it, as it isn't used for anything else since the truck has manual windows.

From a switch ignition standpoint , I really like the power window idea. Clean and 'just works'. Would just need the fuse box clip for window circuit. I believe I have a spare if needed.

I was semi joking with the position comment although it would be some I'd personally consider. I like being able to leave my phone plugged in and charging, if really low, when I have to run into a store. So if it's just the parasitic draw that you are trying to eliminate I was thinking you could install a contact switch (like on gloveboxes) so that when nothing is plugged in and the tray closed it would, via relay, kill power. If the door is open it would be powered.

[Gary Lewis]

From a switch ignition standpoint , I really like the power window idea. Clean and 'just works'. Would just need the fuse box clip for window circuit. I believe I have a spare if needed.

I was semi joking with the position comment although it would be some I'd personally consider. I like being able to leave my phone plugged in and charging, if really low, when I have to run into a store. So if it's just the parasitic draw that you are trying to eliminate I was thinking you could install a contact switch (like on gloveboxes) so that when nothing is plugged in and the tray closed it would, via relay, kill power. If the door is open it would be powered.

Ahhhh! I see said the blind man. By "position" I thought you meant where it is in the truck. But you meant whether it is open or closed.

But "fuse box clip"? Don't know if I have one of those. So apparently the wiring isn't there for the power windows, but with the right clip into the fuse box I can run a wire over there for that function. Right?

And I'm starting to find a few USB-A/C socket-mount chargers. Here's one:

36W Socket Dual USB Type C PD 3.0 (36W) + USB A QC4.0 (18W): "Both ports, when used at the same time, provide 18W each of power. Plug only one device into the USB Type-C port to get 36W."

I've searched for QC 5.0 and have found nothing for use in a vehicle. I'm beginning to think the one above may be the way to go.

Thoughts?

[85lebaront2]

From a switch ignition standpoint , I really like the power window idea. Clean and 'just works'. Would just need the fuse box clip for window circuit. I believe I have a spare if needed.

I was semi joking with the position comment although it would be some I'd personally consider. I like being able to leave my phone plugged in and charging, if really low, when I have to run into a store. So if it's just the parasitic draw that you are trying to eliminate I was thinking you could install a contact switch (like on gloveboxes) so that when nothing is plugged in and the tray closed it would, via relay, kill power. If the door is open it would be powered.

You could also, if it is only powered key on, provide a momentary contact switch to power it, key off in an emergency so it could be used for your radio.

[kramttocs]

Ahhhh! I see said the blind man. By "position" I thought you meant where it is in the truck. But you meant whether it is open or closed.

But "fuse box clip"? Don't know if I have one of those. So apparently the wiring isn't there for the power windows, but with the right clip into the fuse box I can run a wire over there for that function. Right?

And I'm starting to find a few USB-A/C socket-mount chargers. Here's one:

36W Socket Dual USB Type C PD 3.0 (36W) + USB A QC4.0 (18W): "Both ports, when used at the same time, provide 18W each of power. Plug only one device into the USB Type-C port to get 36W."

I've searched for QC 5.0 and have found nothing for use in a vehicle. I'm beginning to think the one above may be the way to go.

Thoughts?

That one looks really promising. Haven't heard of the brand and not many reviews but the question responses sound like it's working well for them. In Use only LEDs is nice also although not as important now that you're going switched.

Yep - just need the piece that clips into the back of the fuse block. Not positive if the wire is long enough as is to reach the ash tray but it might be. Once you have that you can install a breaker or fuse. There is also a spacer you can install (from Broncos) if using a fuse although not required. I am using the fuse since I have the keyless window module and I believe I have an extra of those spacers also.

[Gary Lewis]

That one looks really promising. Haven't heard of the brand and not many reviews but the question responses sound like it's working well for them. In Use only LEDs is nice also although not as important now that you're going switched.

Yep - just need the piece that clips into the back of the fuse block. Not positive if the wire is long enough as is to reach the ash tray but it might be. Once you have that you can install a breaker or fuse. There is also a spacer you can install (from Broncos) if using a fuse although not required. I am using the fuse since I have the keyless window module and I believe I have an extra of those spacers also.

Bill - Actually a latching relay setup sounds appropriate. Put a push button beside the charger to latch the relay, and when power comes on with the key the next time the relay drops out. I'm thinking use the switched circuit as the ground for the relay's coil and the push button supplies power to bring the relay in, at which point it supplies its own coil power. Push the button when the key is off and surely the switched wiring will sink enough current to bring the relay in. Turn the key on and you now have 12v on both sides of the coil so it drops out.

Scott - I agree with you, so I bought it. Should be here on Friday. They also have a plug-in unit but it is only QC3.0 instead of QC4.0. But it is low profile should would probably fit nicely into a power port and still let the ash tray door close.

I think I'll check the quiescent current on the device before I convert to switched power. If it is really low I might leave it hot and not have to worry about a latching relay.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - Actually a latching relay setup sounds appropriate. Put a push button beside the charger to latch the relay, and when power comes on with the key the next time the relay drops out. I'm thinking use the switched circuit as the ground for the relay's coil and the push button supplies power to bring the relay in, at which point it supplies its own coil power. Push the button when the key is off and surely the switched wiring will sink enough current to bring the relay in. Turn the key on and you now have 12v on both sides of the coil so it drops out.

Scott - I agree with you, so I bought it. Should be here on Friday. They also have a plug-in unit but it is only QC3.0 instead of QC4.0. But it is low profile should would probably fit nicely into a power port and still let the ash tray door close.

I think I'll check the quiescent current on the device before I convert to switched power. If it is really low I might leave it hot and not have to worry about a latching relay.

With the key off push the button and the switched power load will sink enough to pull the relay in. Let up on the button and the relay stays latched in. But turn the key on and now you have 12v to both sides of the coil and the relay drops out.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, the power is off but somehow it is still drawing the battery down?

I'm beginning to think I need to convert the ash tray outlet to switched power. I'm just not too confident about how much current these things will draw, and Big Blue doesn't get driven all that often. And stories like yours kind of reinforce that thinking.

By the way it's phrased, I think Dane's saying that the CB has a zombie draw.

But I may well be wrong.

You've got a smart isolator for the auxiliary battery, why not the starting battery?

Plenty of vehicles do that now. It's annoying to have to find the magic combination that brings it back when a vehicle has been sitting.