Gary Lewis Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 How about a #2 cable going from the inverter to the frame via the same hole but on the passenger side? Or even using that other hole we talked about (still on passenger side). Well, the frame is grounded, come to think of it. I forgot to mention the #2 wires from both batteries to the frame. So that would work, and it would keep the current out of the cab's shell. I think I like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 But does anyone know a source for the cargo light gasket? The MPC shows it as part of the light kit, and gives it a # of 15A551. I guessed that the whole part number is E0TZ 15A551-A since the light is E0TZ 15551-A, but haven't found it that way nor as E2TZ 14A551-A, which it might have been since the kit has an E2 prefix. https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-91-92-93-Ford-F150-CARGO-BED-LIGHT-Lamp-w-Gasket-F250-F350-OEM-80-86-87-91/164506390348?hash=item264d584f4c:g:bJkAAOSwqb1frEzU https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-cargo-lamp-and-components https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1993-Ford-Pickup-Cargo-Lamp/productinfo/34995/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 But does anyone know a source for the cargo light gasket? The MPC shows it as part of the light kit, and gives it a # of 15A551. I guessed that the whole part number is E0TZ 15A551-A since the light is E0TZ 15551-A, but haven't found it that way nor as E2TZ 14A551-A, which it might have been since the kit has an E2 prefix. https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-91-92-93-Ford-F150-CARGO-BED-LIGHT-Lamp-w-Gasket-F250-F350-OEM-80-86-87-91/164506390348?hash=item264d584f4c:g:bJkAAOSwqb1frEzU https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-cargo-lamp-and-components https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1993-Ford-Pickup-Cargo-Lamp/productinfo/34995/ Thanks, David. But for $32 - $49 plus shipping I like Jim's suggestion better. Amazon delivered this for $7 this morn. Sorry, I should have said something so you wouldn't go searching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Thanks, David. But for $32 - $49 plus shipping I like Jim's suggestion better. Amazon delivered this for $7 this morn. Sorry, I should have said something so you wouldn't go searching. Not a lot to show for today but I did get a few things done. First, I painted 5 of the 6 metal trim pieces that hold the headliner up. The other one is the piece that goes under the rear window, and I'll paint it when I paint its mate after I mill some slots in it to clear the dividers in the caddy. And that may be tomorrow. But I didn't want to start slotting the trim piece until I knew exactly where the caddy is going to sit. So I measured and measured and measure and finally used a 1 1/2" hose saw to put the holes in the caddy's bottom to clear the cab bolts. And I got it right as it sits nicely over them. About that time Amazon delivered a couple of things, including the rivnuts. I hoped to install them but ran out of time. However I did get three holes drilled in both the caddy and the floor, so tomorrow I plan to install the rivnuts and bolt the caddy down. Then I can cut the slots in the trim piece and paint the two trim pieces. The other things Amazon delivered were the 8-32 flanged button-head screws. So I was able to pull the screws I had holding the GMRS radio and the L-bracket in and replace them, one at a time. I think it turned out well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 Not a lot to show for today but I did get a few things done. First, I painted 5 of the 6 metal trim pieces that hold the headliner up. The other one is the piece that goes under the rear window, and I'll paint it when I paint its mate after I mill some slots in it to clear the dividers in the caddy. And that may be tomorrow. But I didn't want to start slotting the trim piece until I knew exactly where the caddy is going to sit. So I measured and measured and measure and finally used a 1 1/2" hose saw to put the holes in the caddy's bottom to clear the cab bolts. And I got it right as it sits nicely over them. About that time Amazon delivered a couple of things, including the rivnuts. I hoped to install them but ran out of time. However I did get three holes drilled in both the caddy and the floor, so tomorrow I plan to install the rivnuts and bolt the caddy down. Then I can cut the slots in the trim piece and paint the two trim pieces. The other things Amazon delivered were the 8-32 flanged button-head screws. So I was able to pull the screws I had holding the GMRS radio and the L-bracket in and replace them, one at a time. I think it turned out well. Looks 'sano', as we used to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Looks 'sano', as we used to say. Thanks, Jim! I recognize that term, and like the implications. I really like making things look as if they were designed that way from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Thanks, Jim! I recognize that term, and like the implications. I really like making things look as if they were designed that way from the factory. Yes, very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 Yes, very nice! Thanks, Dane. Y'all may be wondering why I'm working on the caddy when I need to finish up the Highliner. Well, I've realized that I can't easily get to the bottom of the cab corners with the corner trim on, and need to run the power and ground circuits through there. So I can't put the corner trim on, permanently, which means I can't put the metal trim on yet as it goes over the corner trim. But the corner trim holds the caddy forward a bit, so I needed it in place so I could position the caddy and drill the holes and put the nutserts in. Tomorrow I hope to get the nutserts in, put the slots in the trim to use it as a hold-down, paint the two trim pieces, and then determine how much #2 wire I need 'cause I'll probably have to order it. And I think I'll have to order the Magnalugs. One other thing I need to sort out is the 110v wiring. I need to come from the inverter to a relay box that's controlled by a switch on the dash, and from there to compressor in the tool box. And I'm not sure how to run that wire. I'm thinking about going out the back of the passenger's cab corner with a grommet and into the bed through another grommet. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 Thanks, Dane. Y'all may be wondering why I'm working on the caddy when I need to finish up the Highliner. Well, I've realized that I can't easily get to the bottom of the cab corners with the corner trim on, and need to run the power and ground circuits through there. So I can't put the corner trim on, permanently, which means I can't put the metal trim on yet as it goes over the corner trim. But the corner trim holds the caddy forward a bit, so I needed it in place so I could position the caddy and drill the holes and put the nutserts in. Tomorrow I hope to get the nutserts in, put the slots in the trim to use it as a hold-down, paint the two trim pieces, and then determine how much #2 wire I need 'cause I'll probably have to order it. And I think I'll have to order the Magnalugs. One other thing I need to sort out is the 110v wiring. I need to come from the inverter to a relay box that's controlled by a switch on the dash, and from there to compressor in the tool box. And I'm not sure how to run that wire. I'm thinking about going out the back of the passenger's cab corner with a grommet and into the bed through another grommet. Thoughts? While you are pondering the last question, let me ask another. And I'll confess up front that it must be late or I'm having a senior moment. But I'm looking for a relay to handle the compressor's 110v requirements and yet be pulled in by 12v and I'm not finding them. All the spec's I'm seeing for a typical Bosch relay show the contacts rated for 14V DC. But I need one rated at 110/120V AC. My memory says that it is far easier to break AC current than it is DC current, but can I use a typical Bosch relay for 110V? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 While you are pondering the last question, let me ask another. And I'll confess up front that it must be late or I'm having a senior moment. But I'm looking for a relay to handle the compressor's 110v requirements and yet be pulled in by 12v and I'm not finding them. All the spec's I'm seeing for a typical Bosch relay show the contacts rated for 14V DC. But I need one rated at 110/120V AC. My memory says that it is far easier to break AC current than it is DC current, but can I use a typical Bosch relay for 110V? I'm now finding some relays. For reference the HF compressor is rated at 1.5 HP but is said to pull a max of 14 amps. Yeeco 30A: This says 30A at 250VAC, but then it says 1HP at 110VAC. Sorry, but 30A @ 250V is 7500W, which is technically about 10 HP. I'm lost. Jameco: This one is rated at 2HP @ 250VAC, and 30A @ 250VAC. I'm trying to remember what I've learned about inductive motors, starting current, etc. Someone want to school me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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