Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 Ok Rob, thanks. I plan to do some investigating to see how much room there is up there as I do want to put whatever insulation I can up there - either in addition to or in place of that foam. Jim - I was thinking hot-melt, but we are thinking alike. Well, there ain't much room. But we'll get to that. I got the passenger's door panel on: Also, here's the door handle grommet that I painted. It was brown. And while I'd gotten the passenger's kick panel vent and kick panel itself on, I'm not sure I posted a pic. So here 'tis: Now for the Highliner. I couldn't wait so put it in place, which is a chore since there's not much to hold it up in place. So I used a ratchet strap through the door openings to bring it up somewhat in place, put two screws in the sun visor holes to anchor the front, and then stuck those 2x4's in to bring the back up. That let me sit in the seat and explore. And it looks like the piece of 1/2" foam they supply is just about right. The sides, directly above the driver and passenger, recess up and would touch the inner liner of the roof w/o the foam. But there appears to be a bit of room down the center so I don't think it would be a good plan to drill through the Highliner and into the roof as pulling it up that way might not be good. So for the radio bracket I think the machine screw/nut approach is best. But I might bring a flathead screw in from the top and put the nuts on from the bottom. That way the bracket can be removed if necessary w/o removing the Highliner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Well, there ain't much room. But we'll get to that. I got the passenger's door panel on: Also, here's the door handle grommet that I painted. It was brown. And while I'd gotten the passenger's kick panel vent and kick panel itself on, I'm not sure I posted a pic. So here 'tis: Now for the Highliner. I couldn't wait so put it in place, which is a chore since there's not much to hold it up in place. So I used a ratchet strap through the door openings to bring it up somewhat in place, put two screws in the sun visor holes to anchor the front, and then stuck those 2x4's in to bring the back up. That let me sit in the seat and explore. And it looks like the piece of 1/2" foam they supply is just about right. The sides, directly above the driver and passenger, recess up and would touch the inner liner of the roof w/o the foam. But there appears to be a bit of room down the center so I don't think it would be a good plan to drill through the Highliner and into the roof as pulling it up that way might not be good. So for the radio bracket I think the machine screw/nut approach is best. But I might bring a flathead screw in from the top and put the nuts on from the bottom. That way the bracket can be removed if necessary w/o removing the Highliner. Doors look great Gary! I wonder what differentiates that Highliner from mine? Do the instructions indicate if it goes under or over the rear trim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2020 Author Share Posted November 12, 2020 Doors look great Gary! I wonder what differentiates that Highliner from mine? Do the instructions indicate if it goes under or over the rear trim? Thanks, Rob. The instructions, such as they are and they are really poor, indicate that the trim goes on after the Highliner goes in. So I think the difference is that the "skirts" are different lengths. How is yours held in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Thanks, Rob. The instructions, such as they are and they are really poor, indicate that the trim goes on after the Highliner goes in. So I think the difference is that the "skirts" are different lengths. How is yours held in place? I thought it would go under the trim, should have a more 'finished' look than mine when you're done. Mine is held in place by 6 screws around the back half and then the metal trim and visors in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 I thought it would go under the trim, should have a more 'finished' look than mine when you're done. Mine is held in place by 6 screws around the back half and then the metal trim and visors in the front. Good job! Those door panels look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 Good job! Those door panels look great! Rob - I think it will look finished as the trim covers the edges. Should look good. But Janey said "It looks BLACK!" I said "Yes, there'd be way too much blue if I painted it." And she agreed. In fact, the all-blue door panels may be too much and I may eventually put the chrome trim on. But it is easier to put it on than to fill the holes if I don't like it, so I wanted to try w/o it first. Dane - Thanks! I hope to get the driver's door panel on tomorrow. I'm impressed with the difference in sound that the panel makes when closing the door. Probably due to the 1/2" felt that is now glued to the back of the door panel, but there's now more of a "thunk". Way different than it used to be, and even better than with just the sound deadening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Rob - I think it will look finished as the trim covers the edges. Should look good. But Janey said "It looks BLACK!" I said "Yes, there'd be way too much blue if I painted it." And she agreed. In fact, the all-blue door panels may be too much and I may eventually put the chrome trim on. But it is easier to put it on than to fill the holes if I don't like it, so I wanted to try w/o it first. Dane - Thanks! I hope to get the driver's door panel on tomorrow. I'm impressed with the difference in sound that the panel makes when closing the door. Probably due to the 1/2" felt that is now glued to the back of the door panel, but there's now more of a "thunk". Way different than it used to be, and even better than with just the sound deadening. Where's your dash cover today, Gary? Are you going to have enough room in the A pillar trim to run all that wiring? (antenna, speakers, lights, radio, etc...) Retirement sure becomes you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2020 Author Share Posted November 13, 2020 Where's your dash cover today, Gary?Are you going to have enough room in the A pillar trim to run all that wiring? (antenna, speakers, lights, radio, etc...)Retirement sure becomes you! Good question about the dash cover, Jim. Here's what FedUp says: Friday , 11/13/2020 1:37 am LENEXA, KS Departed FedEx location Thursday , 11/12/2020 12:59 am LENEXA, KS Arrived at FedEx location Wednesday , 11/11/2020 9:34 pm OLATHE, KS Left FedEx origin facility Wednesday , 11/11/2020 4:37 pm OLATHE, KS Arrived at FedEx location Wednesday , 11/11/2020 2:32 pm OLATHE, KS Picked up Tuesday , 11/10/2020 3:09 pm Shipment information sent to FedEx So the email I got Wed at 2:02 AM saying I'd get it that day was, as I suspected, quite wrong. But it is interesting to me that there was almost 24 hours lost between the shipment info being generated and the cover being picked up. Then there was about 36 hours where FedUp had it and it was moved around by truck to their facility in Olathe and then to their facility, about 8 miles away in Lenexa. Meanwhile the 2300 mAh AA batteries I ordered from Amazon last night will arrive in less than 24 hours. Similarly the Midland radios were ordered last Saturday morning and were delivered before we left for church on Sunday morning. I believe that COVID-19 has moved many of us from picking things up from brick & mortar stores to buying online, and we aren't likely to go all the way back. And Amazon is certainly setting the bar high for speed of delivery. So our expectations are/have been dramatically changed on what is acceptable, and vendors like LMC and shipping companies like FedUp are going to have to change their approaches. Or, to put it another way, someone will and whomever does is going to get the business. As for the A-pillar, I looked yesterday and there's no easy way to get the wire from the open area in the A-pillar into the header going across above the windshield. And even then you have to get out and into the Highliner. The instructions with the Highliner say to come up the B-pillar and follow the dome light wires, so that's my plan. I have some flat speaker wire designed to go under carpet, so am thinking about using that for the left and right rear channels, and power to the radio will come from the actual stock radio circuit. I'll also have to cut into the roof area to install the weatherproof BNC connector, so I have some work to do before thing can go together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Good question about the dash cover, Jim. Here's what FedUp says: Friday , 11/13/2020 1:37 am LENEXA, KS Departed FedEx location Thursday , 11/12/2020 12:59 am LENEXA, KS Arrived at FedEx location Wednesday , 11/11/2020 9:34 pm OLATHE, KS Left FedEx origin facility Wednesday , 11/11/2020 4:37 pm OLATHE, KS Arrived at FedEx location Wednesday , 11/11/2020 2:32 pm OLATHE, KS Picked up Tuesday , 11/10/2020 3:09 pm Shipment information sent to FedEx So the email I got Wed at 2:02 AM saying I'd get it that day was, as I suspected, quite wrong. But it is interesting to me that there was almost 24 hours lost between the shipment info being generated and the cover being picked up. Then there was about 36 hours where FedUp had it and it was moved around by truck to their facility in Olathe and then to their facility, about 8 miles away in Lenexa. Meanwhile the 2300 mAh AA batteries I ordered from Amazon last night will arrive in less than 24 hours. Similarly the Midland radios were ordered last Saturday morning and were delivered before we left for church on Sunday morning. I believe that COVID-19 has moved many of us from picking things up from brick & mortar stores to buying online, and we aren't likely to go all the way back. And Amazon is certainly setting the bar high for speed of delivery. So our expectations are/have been dramatically changed on what is acceptable, and vendors like LMC and shipping companies like FedUp are going to have to change their approaches. Or, to put it another way, someone will and whomever does is going to get the business. As for the A-pillar, I looked yesterday and there's no easy way to get the wire from the open area in the A-pillar into the header going across above the windshield. And even then you have to get out and into the Highliner. The instructions with the Highliner say to come up the B-pillar and follow the dome light wires, so that's my plan. I have some flat speaker wire designed to go under carpet, so am thinking about using that for the left and right rear channels, and power to the radio will come from the actual stock radio circuit. I'll also have to cut into the roof area to install the weatherproof BNC connector, so I have some work to do before thing can go together. Gary, I wouldn't think the standard cab A pillar is different from the crew cab as the A and C pillar on the crew cab are standard cab components. You have a pair of wires in the left side A pillar for the roof lights. Unplug the ends of that (I think it is a plug into the fuse box and a ground), tie a piece of string to them and pull it up, attach the wire(s) to the Highliner and pull the resulting bundle down the left A pillar. Be glad it's not a convertible, the A pillar on the Chrysler would do as a roll cage, it's pretty healthy and there is no straight through open area, it is blocked just about at the cowl line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 Gary, I wouldn't think the standard cab A pillar is different from the crew cab as the A and C pillar on the crew cab are standard cab components. You have a pair of wires in the left side A pillar for the roof lights. Unplug the ends of that (I think it is a plug into the fuse box and a ground), tie a piece of string to them and pull it up, attach the wire(s) to the Highliner and pull the resulting bundle down the left A pillar. Be glad it's not a convertible, the A pillar on the Chrysler would do as a roll cage, it's pretty healthy and there is no straight through open area, it is blocked just about at the cowl line. Bill - I was right there with you and was thinking the same when I read it (that's how I did my gps antenna) but then I remembered BB doesn't have clearance lights so it would require fishing a wire up/down. Which on a supercab isn't bad as you have fairly easy access to the top of the A pillar and across the cab via a 'shelf'. Not sure about crewcabs. With a reg cab though you'd had to make use of the visor hole and then find a way to get it to the newly drilled hold in the center. I can see why they recommend the B pillar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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